Guys :
What do you guys use in yours ?? And how R the results??
I got one of these years ago following an article in "On The Water" mag on how Penn has added these to there service center with outstanding results.
They used a cleaning solution that contained acids that penn claimed would clean a reel to spit shine condition on less that 1 minute .
So far my results have not been stellar . Tried everything from 50/50 simple green/ water to an acidic soloution called Oakbrite from an industrial cleaning supply . I also tried Bransonic cleaning soluton with poor results .
My goal was to strip a real down to parts, zap em and just like penn in a few minutes pull em out air dry and start re assembly. So far the bath has been useless for greases and the simple green took the paint off one of my spinning reels.,
Anyone have a system they are pleased with?
You have to pre clean the parts by scrubbing them with degreaser of choice. I use saftey clean parts cleaning solvent that I buy from a saftey clean dealership. You can use brake clean spray cans, or odorless mineral spirits also. Many just use hot water and soap. Ofter you get the grease off, the ultra sonic will do a great job of getting the reel clean in the tight corners and rinse off all traces of the cleaning solvents. I use diluted simple green, but you have to just run it a few minutes.
I use mine a lot. I have a mixture of dawn dish soap and simple green both diluted with water. Parts stay in the bath for one or more cleaning cycles that lasts about 15 minutes each because the ultrasonic cleaner that I have has a built in heater and I it works best when the solution is warm. I don't use and harmful acids or anything like that.
There are many opinions (pro & con) regarding the use of ultrasonic cleaners to clean fishing reels.
For me, the ultrasonic cleaner is a valuable tool that will help to clean up a reel in about 1/3 the time -- with much better results since the solution gets into every hidden crevice.
For me, time is efficiency -- and the cleaner allows me to be disassembling the next reel-- while one is taking a bath.
These are only my opinions -- this is just what works for me -- and likely will not suit everyone.
Briefly, here is what I have learned in the last 15 years since getting my first cleaner:
Make the investment in a good, professional, heavy duty machine -- not plastic reservoirs -- get stainless steel & good electronics.
Get one of the top brands for industrial or medical use -- not the small guys for jewelry.
Hint -- no need to buy one new -- they are expensive -- instead, every medium or larger metro area has a medical or dental supply place that sells new and used equipment. I got mine from a dental equipment place that had used ones that they had taken in trade -- ended up trading service work to the owner on three of his Penn 970s. He recommended a used L&R with a footprint of about 16"W X 10"D X 12"H -- weighs about 20 pounds. Forget about digital controls -- forget about a heated element -- just a basic unit with little to go wrong (just a timer control with auto shut-off). Mine has never had an issue in 15 years of nearly continous use.
At first I just filled up the reservoir with a solution -- and cleaned parts -- but that got expensive.
I discovered that I could just fill the reservoir with water -- and use various sizes of wide mouthed containers with a solution mixture-- and reuse the solution at least 7 or 8 times before refilling. I use plastic, since glass works also -- but has a chance of breaking down over time -- and will cause scratches on parts. Water stays clean -- thus saving time.
Just use old pots and a very fine pasta collander drainer to dump the cleaned parts into -- rinse with warm water -- and address any issues not completely cleaned with a toothbrush. Dry with air, towel, or blow off.
Solutions I use are a purple degreaser for heavy duty cleaning of brass, bronze, chromed, steel, SS, copper, etc.. Then a mixture of simple green and water for painted, bakelite, pot metal, or other more fragile materials.
Always looking out for other solutions that may work better -- but am concerned about safety -- so these are what I use.
Also, never get the parts of two or more reels mixed up in a cleaning batch -- no matter how well you think you can reassemble any reel -- this is a time consuming recipe for problems.
Sometimes the fastest perocedure is also a slower, methodical approach.
I use a separate tray for each reel -- and go through a lot of paper towels.
Hope this helps someone by adding at least one or two ideas to your arsenal.
And hopefully, some of you would have some other hints about ultrasonic cleaners that you have discovered.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred .... Tell me more about the purple degreaser??
And what mix do you use for simple green water. I do find that simple green works great for cabon drags getting them in a like new condition do a fresh costing of cals and there good to go.
Thanks Fred. I always wondered if I should get one of those ultrasonic cleaners. I can see that they work but I don't do enough reel work to justify the expense. But the information you set out is invaluable. Dominick
Here is the Purple De-greaser I use --
It should be diluted with water to some extent -- depending on what you are cleaning -- generally 2 parts water, 1 part purple.
Most good hardware or auto parts places have it -- along with Lowe's and HD. Not too expensive -- I think about $12.00 a gallon, or so.
Cautions:
It will irritate or sting your skin -- so be careful and use gloves as necessary.
It will discolor or ruin Bakelite, plastic, take paint off of reels -- so I only use it on metals (not cheaper pot metals like in a Mitchell or Daiwa spinning reel) that I know will hold up well, such as bronze, brass, copper, chrome, SS, steel, etc. Do not use it on aluminum -- just use a water diluted solution of simple green for aluminum.
As an example, on a conventional Penn reel -- all parts go into the purple vat, except the side plates, crank, and any other at risk parts -- at risk parts go into the simple green vat during the same load.
I forgot to mention, that just like Pro Reel said -- if you have a tough grease buildup job ahead of you -- I still soak the greasy parts in Mineral Oil before ultrasonically cleaning them -- to start the cleaning process, and get as much grease loosened up and off the parts before the final cleaning. Bearings get at least one cover popped off -- and soaked for 10 minutes in lacquer thinner. Make sure all of your solvent and flammable cleaners have a screw on lid for safety.
Occasionally I will use carb cleaner, or lacquer thinner -- but that is only in very severe cases -- and even then I am probably overly careful due to the flammability factor and fumes. Any time I use lacquer, solvents, etc., I always have a metal can with a lid that I use to dispose of the rags until they are dry. Can't be too careful.
Never put solvents, lacquer cleaners, or any volatile substances into the ultrasonic cleaner -- too much risk around electrical stuff.
Last thing --
There are some liability regulations regarding the reselling of certain medical equipment due to possible contamination -- so you would need to approach a medical equipment repair and sales company by letting them know up front that you are using this for fishing gear -- not brain surgery instruments. A small independent business would be your best bet. Sometimes hard to get around corporate regulations. But quite frankly, when the equipment supply place took this in trade after upgrading the good doctor's equipment -- they offered him a set amount as a package trade in (in lieu of a discount) -- and now anything they get for it is gravy to them. So they can be purchased pretty cheaply if you are good at negotiating directly with the manager or owner. Cash talks.
I have friends who use Ultrasonic cleaners for firearms parts, as well as cleaning up their used brass prior to reloading.
Dominick, someday you will have the opportunity to get a good buy on a quality ultrasonic cleaner -- then the only thing you will say is "why did I wait so long". It doesn't matter how many reels you service -- it just works so much better. And then there are always the times you need to clean a piece of jewelry, clock part, boat part, plumbing part, auto part, etc. -- and it works for that too!
Best,
Fred
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Fred, great info. I have two of the L&R ultra sonic cleaner units. The newer one has a heater(which is never used) and the older one just a on/off switch. I REALLY like the idea of the jars in the water. I've been using the non-ammoniated rinse and clean solutions by L&R. These are excellent at breaking down the grease but they are pretty rough on your skin. So wear gloves. They are also a bit pricey so I'm going to give the jars in water a try. Thanks for the idea.
Bob
I think you need a pretty big one for the jars thing. I've tried it in mine and no deal. the liquid in the jar just doesn't move. I then tried a plastic container to see if it was any different...and it wasn't.
I have 2 screens...one came with the ultrasonic cleaner and the other a small SS screen cup for tiny parts. Both serve me well and I only use the dawn and simple green solutions.
Cheap ebay ultrasonic cleaner + warm water bath + small jars/plastic containers full of IPA.
3 to 6 mins everything de-greased and clean. Change fluid in jars for final clean. Brilliant for bearings and intricate stuff.
Thank you
Fred, for the heads up on the product. It turns out I can order it in, from Rangoon Tyre, right here in scenic Splinters. Kewl. A mere 15.00 CAD dollars for 3.78 liters, 1 US gallon. At 6-1 max dilution, it will last me a long time. Cheers, KAD
Bryan:
Do you mix Dawn AND Simplle Green?? Id so can you share the mix. 50/50 Simple Green Water works OK, it separates into oil and water when the bath is heated. It took the green paint off of one of my old Spinfisher greenies I was restoring.
Foakes:
The Zep Cleaner Is A mix of Caustic Soda and Butyl Cellosolve....Be careful of that one Caustic dissolves skin and is even worse in your eyes than acids.
Anyone ever try Goo Gone?? Folks seem to like this for Bike Parts
Yes, my mix is a combination of simple green and dawn dishwashing detergent. The mixture is like 1:10 simple green to water and 1:10 dawn (maybe less...I don't measure). Then fill the rest with water to cover parts, so I don't know after that. Sorry. If one cycle doesn't do it, I do more until it's clean to close the way I like it. I'm sure a more concentrated solution would be faster, but I'm in no hurry because I'm usually working on other reels while one is in the cleaning hopper. I guess I should try just dawn solution alone to see how it does. Might be cheaper for me.
I only had one decal come off due to the solution. Maybe it's because my concentration is not strong enough and usually takes a little longer for the cleaners to work.
Guys:
Cant Vouch for the results as of yet...but a Tech Service Chemist at Simple Green Reccomended their Purple Heavy Duty Degreaser...Supposed to be available at Home Depot....Is reccomended for Ultrasonic Cleaning Baths, Will degrease even bicyclyle gears, and is totally compatable with Anodized Aluminum, Brass, SS,Bronze, Iron and plastics...and contains no caustic soda or phosphates. The only thing it NOT compatable with is...Asphault...so if you try and get an engine oil stain out of your driveway with it...it will melt the asphalt.
Its 12 bucks a gallon and gets diluted 1 in 5 so its gonna last a long time. It was originally designed for cleaning aircraft.
Gonna give it a whirl and report back.....BTW she said....If it doesnt work for you....save your register reciept....Simple Green will send you your money back, thats our policy!! Cant loose!!.
Looked at the MSDS...and besides water its predominately wetting agents, sequesterants, and Tri Ethanolamine(Really cuts Grease!) and in BPGME...Butylated Proplylene Glycol Mono Ether...which is less toxic than Butyl Cellosolve and is a better grease cutter.
As a practicing Chemist...I think this looks promising....Stay Tuned!!!
Quote from: Prefessa on April 08, 2014, 09:31:26 PM
Guys:
Cant Vouch for the results as of yet...but a Tech Service Chemist at Simple Green Reccomended their Purple Heavy Duty Degreaser...Supposed to be available at Home Depot....Is reccomended for Ultrasonic Cleaning Baths, Will degrease even bicyclyle gears, and is totally compatable with Anodized Aluminum, Brass, SS,Bronze, Iron and plastics...and contains no caustic soda or phosphates. The only thing it NOT compatable with is...Asphault...so if you try and get an engine oil stain out of your driveway with it...it will melt the asphalt.
Its 12 bucks a gallon and gets diluted 1 in 5 so its gonna last a long time. It was originally designed for cleaning aircraft.
Gonna give it a whirl and report back.....BTW she said....If it doesnt work for you....save your register reciept....Simple Green will send you your money back, thats our policy!! Cant loose!!.
Looked at the MSDS...and besides water its predominately wetting agents, sequesterants, and Tri Ethanolamine(Really cuts Grease!) and in BPGME...Butylated Proplylene Glycol Mono Ether...which is less toxic than Butyl Cellosolve and is a better grease cutter.
As a practicing Chemist...I think this looks promising....Stay Tuned!!!
Any updates on this Prefessa?
~
Hi Fred, did you ever try the Simple Green, purple, industrial degreaser? It is supposed to be biodegradable so I don't think there is as much chance of damage to parts. I only do maybe 30 or 40 reels a year so I can't justify an ultrasonic cleaner. Since I am OCD I would probably clean them the same way I do now prior to using the machine on them.
Thanks for the reminder, John -- I'll give it a try & let everyone know my opinion on the product.
A couple of things that I have learned --
I used to think when I was younger, that there was only (1) best method to do a job -- and only one way to accomplish that job -- generally my way!
Now I have come to realize that there are many ways to arrive at a sensible outcome -- as well as an infinite number of ways to define and get to that good result.
Everyone is different, and I have come to appreciate everyone's choices & ideas.
We all do what we do best -- and too much pride in one's own ideas, is generally not productive.
Thanks to Alan, the moderators, and all who share on this forum.
Best,
Fred
One note,,,,I"m not sure why a glass container was mentioned as damaging things....never seen that.
Be advised that the plastic doesn't transmit the us energy as well as glass so you are reducing the cleaning efficiency. I use glass beakers normally and L&R has a cover with two holes that is designed to hold two beakers. I can try for a pic if anyone is interested.
I repair the gearbox on the Precision Auto Reels, the grease has been in the gearbox anywhere from 2-15 years.
For the thickened old grease I soak the gears in Toluene for an hour then shake the container to agitate. The old grease literally falls off the gears, a quick wipe with a paper towel and they are ready to go.
It doesn't take a lot of Toluene to do this either.
I do this all outside due to fumes, Toluene evaporates quicker than acetone so I keep it sealed in a covered can when not in use.
Do not use in a vibratory cleaner! Nor with plastics. For cleaning metal spools or small metal parts it works very well.
Dave
A member recently asked about my simple green mix ratio --
Everyone will have various methods, formulas, and ingredients -- but I thought it might be useful to some -- to share my procedure. And this may change if something better, cheaper, and easier comes along. But this works very well for me -- parts come out shiny, and every tiny inaccessible crevice is clean.
As a rule -- 50/50 -- water and SG.
My UC does not use heat (less to go wrong with a heating element) -- but it does have an 8 minute analog mechanical timer. If more time is needed -- just reset the timer for another go-around. Generally leave the same SG in for a couple of weeks -- depending on usage and how dirty the liquid gets.
The other wide mouth jar resting in the same reservoir, has ZEP Purple Industrial Cleaner at also about 50/50. I tried the SG purple -- just doesn't work nearly as well.
I keep a jelly jar and lid on my bench filled with lacquer thinner. If parts are really hard greased up, or some weird lubricant that will not come off easily was used -- I give it a 10 minute soak, shake it up, another 10 minutes -- then into the purple. This handles 99% of issues quick and easy. LT works very quickly and effectively on bearings.
All chrome, SS, brass, steel, and tough metals go into the purple.
Pot metal, aluminum, bakelite, plastic, nylon, etc., goes in the SG.
Even then, some of the aluminum or pot metal parts will require additional cleaning by hand -- since they develop a black film that comes off with Steel wool or silver polish.
Just use a strainer -- pour the parts into the strainer, with a pan underneath to recycle the cleaning solution -- rinse with fresh hot water -- dry large parts by hand -- just put the small parts on a paper towel -- they dry by themselves.
This method allows me to crack open a reel, disassemble, clean, and make ready for reassembly in about 20 minutes. And I work on the next reel while the first one is being cleaned. So the time factor overlaps and multiplies my production effectiveness.
Every reel is cleaned separately, kept on its own tray until complete -- and never mixed with another reel (voice of experience and mistakes).
Best,
Fred
Good, detailed information. Thanks for sharing.