hi guys...just got an abu 7000 from a friend..disambled it and notice it has no brake locks at all.are these impotant for casting....also the turn the star drag to the max and notice that the brakes are not that good.my c3 brakes seems to be better..last thing what does does syncro drag mean?
It's like an in-handle lever drag. If you wind normally a cam setup locks up the drag, if you wind back a quarter of a turn of the handle it backs the drag off by an amount that I can't recall. I guess it sorta like a strike drag? You will probably need the brake blocks unless you have a very educated thumb. Check the condition of the belleville washers under the star (replace if lost their wave) and replace the drag washers with carbontex, you should be GTG!
cheers
Steve
thanks steeve...
Hello. Which syncro is it? the older Swedish one, or the present day Chinese one? If it's SE, chances are 99.9% that the drag washers are contaminated with tramp oil and grease. Abu does not make carbon washers for this reel. You should contact Dawn at Smoothdrag for those.
If it's a present day Chinese syncro, it will have carbon already. The drag, when operating correctly, is reduced by approx. 50% when the handle is turned backwards, coming back to the "preset" when the handle is cranked forward again. The preset drag is NEVER adjusted with the handle in backwards position, it's always adjusted when the handle is in the full FORWARD position.
If it's an SE syncro, I'll make an educated guess. I'll guess you cannot get the drag pack undone from the driveshaft, not being able to remove the main gear at all.
Stuck. Hard. If I'm wrong, good on you...But: If I'm right, I'll tell you how to safely remove the main from the driveshaft. I am a hunt and peck typist, preferring not to type un-necessarily. It's painfully slow. Or another reader of the the thread that types better, can go over it.
i have swedish one
i just tested it on 8lb drag, pulled back on handle,
it registered 3.13lb on sync,mounted on rod
if thats what you call it
perfect for circle hook and a livie :D
I have several (5) SE ones, and really like them, for the syncro feature, and because they also use the really heavy brass side plates, instead of aluminum ones.
I also have 4 of the smaller ones: 2 ea. 5000 Syncro, and 2 of the 6500 models. I ♥ them all.
Geez Ken, the devil's in that post :o
(check your previous post number)
I never realized that they had the synchro in the smaller reels, I only ever saw the 7000 in Oz and that was 20 odd years ago when I got mine.
Quote from: t303 on June 01, 2014, 06:20:33 AM
Geez Ken, the devil's in that post :o
(check your previous post number)
Whaaaa? this makes zero sense to me. What number? Where? When?
Your first post on this thread was your post no. 666 ;D
Quote from: t303 on June 01, 2014, 06:26:26 AM
Your first post on this thread was your post no. 666 ;D
AH !!!! LOL,, missed that, ;D ;D Ya, the syncro was just resurrected 7 size by abu, and was made in many models back when.
A soul can visit nutter reel's collection, and use the "find on this page" deal with the edit key pc's, and note all the various versions.
http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/ProductData.cfm?id=Abu Garcia Nutter's collection (I find) is easier to work with than most, being a list, instead of flipping page after page, yada.
http://www.abugarcia.com/support/reel-schematics?field_schem_numb_value=syncro
Quote from: Ken_D on June 01, 2014, 05:20:50 AM
Hello. Which syncro is it? the older Swedish one, or the present day Chinese one? If it's SE, chances are 99.9% that the drag washers are contaminated with tramp oil and grease. Abu does not make carbon washers for this reel. You should contact Dawn at Smoothdrag for those.
If it's a present day Chinese syncro, it will have carbon already. The drag, when operating correctly, is reduced by approx. 50% when the handle is turned backwards, coming back to the "preset" when the handle is cranked forward again. The preset drag is NEVER adjusted with the handle in backwards position, it's always adjusted when the handle is in the full FORWARD position.
If it's an SE syncro, I'll make an educated guess. I'll guess you cannot get the drag pack undone from the driveshaft, not being able to remove the main gear at all.
Stuck. Hard. If I'm wrong, good on you...But: If I'm right, I'll tell you how to safely remove the main from the driveshaft. I am a hunt and peck typist, preferring not to type un-necessarily. It's painfully slow. Or another reader of the the thread that types better, can go over it
ken d..thanks a lot..its the old swedish one ....i still csnt understand what u are saying on how to set drag with handle....and what the purose of having 2 kind of drags...thks a lot
i tried messing with the star drag and the handle...when star is not to the max i have nearly 9 lb brake...am a vit confused....can someone explain again how it works
To set the fighting drag, wind the handle forwards while holding the spool tight so it can't turn. You will feel the handle turn up tight. Now adjust the star drag until you have the desired setting when pulling out line (don't let the handle turn). This is the max drag tension. When you wind the handle backwards you have less (up to 50% less) drag for letting the fish run, eg to let it run under the boat while you change sides. It works just like a lever drag would on any game reel, or a bit like the emergency brake on your car. It's infinitely variable between max and 50% max drag in about a third of a backward turn of the handle. The star drag works like any other if the handle is wound fully up tight, it's just the backward winding of the handle that reduces the drag. If it works any different you have a problem in the drag.
Quote from: t303 on June 01, 2014, 11:51:14 AM
To set the fighting drag, wind the handle forwards while holding the spool tight so it can't turn. You will feel the handle turn up tight. Now adjust the star drag until you have the desired setting when pulling out line (don't let the handle turn). This is the max drag tension. When you wind the handle backwards you have less (up to 50% less) drag for letting the fish run, eg to let it run under the boat while you change sides. It works just like a lever drag would on any game reel, or a bit like the emergency brake on your car. It's infinitely variable between max and 50% max drag in about a third of a backward turn of the handle. The star drag works like any other if the handle is wound fully up tight, it's just the backward winding of the handle that reduces the drag. If it works any different you have a problem in the drag.
haha got it ..ure right mate...undersood...i like it
can i troll without these brake blocks...what is their utility plz
Quote from: morpheus on June 01, 2014, 02:30:21 PM
so if i dont have brake blocks its better that i use it fo..r trolling...is it a good reel.can it handle abig fish
You can easily locate and add brake blocks. It's capable of handling chinnook salmon, in-river, no boat, shore-fishing, up to 50+ pounds. If you have a dremel or other rotary tool, and an old broken fly rod tip section, you can make your own brake blocks. Or you can take the clear plastic pass tube from a squirt bottle like Windex, or some such, and use lengths of that, cut off with scissors.
what does the brakes block do guys
Quote from: morpheus on June 02, 2014, 02:50:32 PM
what does the brakes block do guys
They apply centrifugal force in the ring on the bottom of the brake plate. As the spool makes velocity on a cast, the brakes rub against the inner ring, slowing it down a little bit, to help prevent "professional over-runs".... or in everyday parlance: backlashes and bird's nests. Abu 7's came with four of each size, small and large, with the small being on the reel, the large in with the oil in the box.
ok thks a lot