Hey guys, I have an old frozen line roller screw (stainless) that I want to get out. Has anyone used the "Grabit" bit to do this and was it successful?
Have tried everything else, time to either cut a notch in the top with a Dremel to fit a bigger slotted screw driver or use a bit like this to grab it and pull it.
:)
Hey John I have used them with success "sometimes". You now have those screws can be. It is on a Penn SS spinner?
Quote from: handi2 on August 30, 2014, 09:56:05 PM
Hey John I have used them with success "sometimes". You now have those screws can be. It is on a Penn SS spinner?
yep, sure is....I'm worried that the SS will be too hard for the bit :(.
I asked b/c every Penn SS I have ever worked on has corrosion on that screw.
Quote from: handi2 on August 31, 2014, 02:55:44 PM
I asked b/c every Penn SS I have ever worked on has corrosion on that screw.
I think they are just old, you know how line rollers are...This is also a relic of the 'pre-Corrosion-X' era. :)
Quote from: handi2 on August 31, 2014, 02:55:44 PM
I asked b/c every Penn SS I have ever worked on has corrosion on that screw.
Keith, the only problem I've encountered with that screw on the SS, was from permanent Loctite, I've also seen it on dog screws. ::)
Most reels do get a little corrosion there, but nothing that we couldn't handle...not the same if it has permanent Loctite.
I do have a couple of housings in the trash bin that I couldn't save from the Loctite.
I've had some that were very hard to get out and I keep new ones on hand b/c I go thru many of these reels a year. Most all were highly corroded. I always grease them when replacing.
Do you think you have enough of them..? I can never keep that many and end up selling them. If you are interested in a new in box 9500SS with upgraded drag from the SSM and a Penn Torque 7 like new in box just PM me.
Interested in that 7, but wrong timing. If you still have it when I'm able I'll drop you a line, unless we could trade on some goodies.
About that Grabit, I never had luck with it, on the job and fishing gear :-\.
This has been working for me, these gears are the ones from Newell Nut, he got a new replacement.
I usually drill a 1/32" hole or in this case a 1/8" and place a tap in it
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/001_zpsb778fc7f.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/001_zpsb778fc7f.jpg.html)
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/006_zps4554693e.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/006_zps4554693e.jpg.html)
and right out it comes
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/008_zps1412f84b.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/008_zps1412f84b.jpg.html)
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/009_zps027abc9d.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/009_zps027abc9d.jpg.html)
These are easy because the threads on the gears are reversed, if you get left hand bits it should be just as easy on other screws.
If it's loctite, or even rust, I have had success with the biggest a$$ed soldering iron you can find applied directly to the screw head, often followed by a quenching in water. I have ground a soldering tip flat to get good contact to the screw head.
Howdy; another thing to try is heat, either with the soldering iron or the flame, heat and cool a couple of times then spray a thin lube, it may help with rust, or loc tite.....Its worth a try , pre trashbin.....gst?
Quote from: t303 on August 31, 2014, 10:20:38 PM
If it's loctite, or even rust, I have had success with the biggest a$$ed soldering iron you can find applied directly to the screw head, often followed by a quenching in water. I have ground a soldering tip flat to get good contact to the screw head.
I can second that. Permanent loctite will release to high-heat.