Anyone have a good tutorial or advice about removing the broken bolt on a Penn 50 TW? Should I just send it to Alan. The reel is going on a long range canyon trip for tuna on Thursday 10/16/14.
Thanks,
Joe
Here's what it looks like.
Yikes! That's going to be a tough one. :o
Since there is nothing to hold onto, I think your only option is drilling it out. Start small and you may be able to save the threads.
pain, agony, dispair....... :-[
torch it, then hit with that freeze spray lubricant, then centerpunch the stud very carefully to make a hole so that the drill does not walk around, then drill it ever so slowly with a 1/8th inch bit, then carefully with the next size up, and the next size, until you can get a bolt extractor in with enough bite to remove the stud. this will take hours. been there, many times. :-[ :-[ :-[
Alan any chance I can send this to you?
Quote from: alantani on October 05, 2014, 05:21:57 PM
pain, agony, dispair....... :-[
torch it, then hit with that freeze spray lubricant, then centerpunch the stud very carefully to make a hole so that the drill does not walk around, then drill it ever so slowly with a 1/8th inch bit, then carefully with the next size up, and the next size, until you can get a bolt extractor in with enough bite to remove the stud. this will take hours. been there, many times. :-[ :-[ :-[
Me too and not fun at all..!
A good T-Bar handle for the extractor bit works better than an electric drill, for me.
I have more control, less chance of stripping out the pilot hole, and less chance of something getting away from me and marring the frame.
The advice from Alan, Daron, and Keith is the only procedure I know of.
And, some folks ask why I grease the bolts and screws when they are going into a frame that doesn't have any moving parts. This is exactly why -- because someone will need to take it apart for service or repair some day.
And anytime a hole in a solid aluminum frame does not have an opening to the other side -- don't put too much grease on the screws or bolts -- there is always the chance of cracking or blowing out the other side of the blind hole -- due to hydraulic grease pressure.
Good luck,
Fred
I for one don't think it's too bad? Not allot of corrosion is good, broken off flush is good...If you haven't started soakin' it with penetrating oil ? do so now. You do need to have high quality drill bits (left handed is preferred for small stuff by me) and good extractors.. Center punch that screw, drill and then heat while attempting the extraction... On this job I would use a good heat gun or small propane torch...If it wont budge then drill it out and install a Helicoil. I did many repairs like this in the Navy and in my over 22 years as a mechanic. If you don't have the tools then you will have a hard time, then the drilling, tapping & helicoiling is easiest
a drill press is good to start with. a countersink bit to start the pilot hole is the best. it tends not to walk. you can send it out of you wish. if you have access to a drill press, i can send you a countersink bit. and you can send it out if you wish. send me a pm and i will get you my mailing address.
i've always wondered if dunking these it a bucket of penetrating oil for a week would help......
Quote from: alantani on October 05, 2014, 09:22:37 PM
a drill press is good to start with. a countersink bit to start the pilot hole is the best. it tends not to walk. you can send it out of you wish. if you have access to a drill press, i can send you a countersink bit. and you can send it out if you wish. send me a pm and i will get you my mailing address.
i've always wondered if dunking these it a bucket of penetrating oil for a week would help......
Alan is right on the counter sinking...I'm old school and have done many of these types of repairs in the dark and upside down...A pilot hole is a definite must & a drill press is a big +, but I think it might come out with a left handed drill an extractor? Just my opinion. The problem is dissimilar metal electrolysis that cause the seizing. Or plain ol' saltwater again ;D
I always drill a starting hole first with a center drill. They are much stiffer than a regular drill bit and won't bend and send the hole at an angle or off center. Then you can use regular drill bits without them walking. You can get a set of 4 center drills for about 5 bucks. I normally get them here. http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=center+drill&B1=Product+Search
Bob
See this.....http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1829.msg9025#msg9025
Part # 34-50T
1/4 x 20 is the tap you will need. I've been there before.
1/4x20 tap uses a 13/64 drill bit or a #7 drill bit
I would recommend going a size or two smaller (11/64 or 5/32??) then run the tap through.
A drill press is your best friend here.