Looking for some cost effective upgrades to a well loved 113H. These two seamed to be the most bang for the buck. Where is the best place to buy them? Are there any additional additions that will not break the bank that any one would recommend? I would gladly take some input. Thanks ahead of time for the help.
DH
Go see Dawn! She'll set you up.
http://www.smoothdrag.com/price.html (http://www.smoothdrag.com/price.html)
Or, you can get HT-100's from :
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn113H.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn113H.aspx)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
......And I think Alan has stainless gear sleeves for sale.......I'm sure he'll chime in here in a bit and get you set up right!
Dwight,
1) Greased carbontex drags (don't forget the fiber washer under the main gear) 2) Stainless gear sleeve 3) Pete Kolekar/or T bar lite 4) Tiburon topless/JVariance Frame 5) Stainless Yoke 6) Newell 4:1 gear/pinion 7) Smoothdrag flat metal washers...GO BIG or GO HOME!!! ;D
Dom
Thanks! I'll call smoothdrag in the morning for the carbontex. Alan you mentioned the #6-875 drag washer behind the main gear? That is the washer sitting right on the gear sleeve.. Correct? not sure if I followed that one right. I'll get that ordered as well.
I have to admit this can be addicting... lol
Cheers
DH
I've been following the "go big or go home" mind set.. Not sure if my wallet will follow it thought.. LOL It would be nice to get the newel gears though, that sounded like a nice granny style addition.
DH
You got it right... On the gear sleeve under the main gear. Have fun, Dwight!
Dom
Dwight,
I my humble opinion and empty wallet (mainly this reason), upgrade for what you are intending to fish for, fishing style, and line strength. First and formost, greased carbon drags is must. If you have a 3 drag washer set-up, change up to Smoothdrag's 5+1 stack with thin metal washers. The smoother the drags, the better your chances for wearing the fishout without line breakage.
If you intend to fish with 30#, I would recommend getting a T-handle (like Kolekar from Alan) or Tibrion handle and arm.
40# Add the stainless gear sleeve.
50# + Solid alluminum frames.
Hi Alan
Any word on the Gear sleeve???
Alan just got a bunch in, but not sure if it's for the 113H. Will check in with him today or tomorrow. By the way, for those who doesn't know, this is Alan's hobby. It seems more like a full time job. So it may take a day or two for him to respond.
In my humble opinion and empty wallet...
Bryan,
you are a really poor guy, with the next shipment i enclose some towels ;D
Wolli
Thanks Brian On the Gear Sleeve I'm petty sure I need the Fine thread one. My star has a stamp of "10- something" I think it is a 5 but to fant to relly tell. but the threads are fine for sure.
Cheers to all for the help!
DH
Alan does have the stainless steel 113H gear sleeves http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=157.0. Send him a personal mail and a check as indicated in his instructions. If you are overseas, he will need to arrange payment via his PayPal account. Hope this helps to get things moving forward.
In the next month or two, we will be updating the website with Alan's inventory status of all available parts, including solid aluminum frames, handles and handle arms,... Stay tuned.
sorry for the delay....
for what it is and what it does, i think that the humble 4/0 penn senator 113hl is one of the best bargains around. the first thing i would do is tear down the reel. the fiber washer under the main gear needs to be replaced with a penn ht-100 #6-875 drag washer. then all of the drag washers need a light coat of cal's grease. then i would pull the bearings. you have two choices here. if freespool is needed, pull the shields, clean out the old grease, lube it with something light and re-install the bearings open. if freespool is not needed, pack with bearings with grease and call it done. now take an old toothbrush and rub a light coat of grease all over and get some grease in all the screw holes. unless your gear sleeve and/or gears are damaged, leave them be. replace them with stainless steel only if there is damage.
to hotrod this reel a little, i would recommend a handle upgrade next. the 6/0 grip and stainless steel arm that i have are $50. with drag settings above 12 pounds, a $25 stainless steel gear sleeve and a stainless steel gear set ($60 from newell!!!!!!!!!!!) would be next. and aluminum frame would be last. i would pass on aluminum side plates all together, unless you simply like the look. of course, at this point 90% of your original reel has been replaced. alan
Bringing up an old thread. Today I received my newest ebay purchase, 114hl, a 113h, and a longbeach65 ($71+$10 shipping). I tore a part the 113h and ordered a 5+1 kit from Dawn. A couple of things stood out so I thought I post these pic to see if you guys can tell me what I have.
(http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/markg0528/113h/113h1.jpg)
(http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l629/markg0528/113h/113h.jpg)
I assume the 3+1 stack of fat washers are smoothies?
Also the main gear appears to be stainless, I checked pennparts and they sell brass so I take it someone has upgraded this reel? Any Ideas?
I can't answer your question about the washers , I can't determine if they are smothies from your pics, most likly they're not, you probably have an earlier model 113H. The main gear and pinion are stainless, but have not been upgraded ,I'm sure the ratio is 3.25:1.If the reel was upgraded, you would probably have a 4:1 gear ratio and the gears would be Accurate or Newell, these gears do not come with the brass sleeve as you have in your main gear. You got yourself a good deal for the money. ;)
It is an early model 113h. I haven't taken apart the 114hl yet but it is in pretty good shape. It needs a eccentric lever and a good servicing and I'll probably replace the washers as well. Doubt I'll use the longbeach.
The washers look like brake pad material and thick. I was expecting to see fiber washers in there, bc that was what was in my other 113h that Alan serviced.
Good description on the washers, that is the material that Penn used on earlier models. If I were you I would also replace the washers on the 6/0. You didn't pay much for those reels, it would be a good investment for you to install some HT100's.
Those possibly looks like steel gears with a stainless pinion. Penn had some gears made out of steel at one time, and they are a treasure. Just keep them greased and they will last longer than your reel.
Regarding the drags, they do look like Penn's drag washers. Penn may have a 5 stack HT-100 plus washer set and so does Smoothdrag. They both will be effective and come with thinner metal washers.
That steel gear is a great bonus to find, for sure.
I cleaned the main gear, it is the steel gear. Next question would be should I upgrade to the steel gear sleeve? I fish the gulf of mexico. I plan on using this reel as a bottom fishing setup for grouper and snapper mainly.
I bought the 6/0 for a budget trolling setup for Wahoo. Besides the HT100s that I'll put in there would there be anything else you guys would do to this reel - minus a new handle...I know that suggestion is coming. ;D
I would definitely replace the gear sleeve on the 4/0 and also add a nice power handle. About the 6/0, you pretty much have it covered, the stack sleeve on the 6/0 should be strong enough for you. Don't forget to also add the HT-100 under the main gear on both reels. Happy fishing!
Quote from: Bryan Young on April 12, 2011, 03:46:32 AM
Regarding the drags, they do look like Penn's drag washers. Penn may have a 5 stack HT-100 plus washer set and so does Smoothdrag. They both will be effective and come with thinner metal washers.
PennParts has a complete 5-stack washer set, HT100s and metals. It's a little cheaper than buying the metal set and the HT100 set.
yeah, looks like a stainless steel pinion gear, a plain (rustable) steel main gear, and an old set of thick penn composite washers. get some grease on the gears and they should be fine. upgrade to a set of carbon fiber drag washes with grease and the drag washers should be fine. if you are fishing greater than 20 pounds of drag, consider a stainless steel gear sleeve. brass will probably be fine for now. alan
Stainless Yoke 6) ? I thought I did everything to my 4/0's. Who has stainless yokes, and are they necessary?
Thanks in advance. Brendan.
What do you mean by everything? If you are keeping the gears, than there is no need to replace the yoke unless it is domaged. If you are upgrading the gears to stainless steel gears with a faster gear ratio, than yes you will need to upgrade the yoke with the stainless steel Yoke, the faster stainless steel gears will tear up the stock yoke.
I get my stainless steel yokes from CharkBait.com, you could also try SmoothDrags.com but I'm not sure if they have them.
By everything I mean upgrades to drag washers, gear sleeve, Aluminum frame, and high speed gears in one of two reels, and Alan's Power handles. I guess I will crack open the one reel to check that out. I also have been looking for another set of gears without dealing with Ebay.
Brendan, you will definitely need the SS yoke in that reel with all the goodies, I don't think that you will be able to find faster SS gears for the 114H, if you do let me know about it, I've been looking for a while now.
I understand what you're saying about Ebay, I'm a part-time buyer as well as a seller. A good 80% of the reels that I purchase are not as described, but I don't argue because I usually strip them down to the bone and then re-sell them to make someone else happy, I don't do it for the money, if I did I would be broke by now, it's just one of my senseless hobbies. Someone is selling a set of newell 4 :1 gears with the yoke for $65. Newell sells them for $45 without the yoke, by the time you pay for shipping and a SS yoke you will be close to what the seller on ebay is asking. Keep in mind that he has to pay for listing and ebay gets a commission when he sells them. ;)
Try CharkBait.com sometimes they have them in stock, if they don't Leeana could probably get them for you, but not so sure about just one set. Hope this helps, Sal
Charkbait had them in stock in January this year, so hopefully should still have them.... http://www.charkbait.com/cs/maintena.htm (http://www.charkbait.com/cs/maintena.htm) about half way down the page. The yoke was around four bucks and the gears about $36. They had to have a scratch around but they were great in keeping me informed as to when they were able to get them shipped (internationally to Australia).
I know what you guys mean about Feebay, however you can sometimes pick up some bargains. I found a bloke selling a new gearset (supposedly standard 3.25:1 ratio) to suit a 113H/4-0 with plenty of pics showing the gearset. I emailled the guy and asked the question if that was the item for sale (the one pictured that is), the answer was yes.... The pinion is the spitting image of the Newell 4:1 gearset but the clincher was the extra tooth on the maingear when held up next to a standard Newell 4:1 gearset (I have to admit I got my wife to check the number of teeth in the pictures). This stainless gearset seems to spin the spool at around 4.2-4.25:1 and is significantly similar in noise to a standard Newell gearset and works a treat in my 113H with the red Accurate frame and handle. Dunno what exactly I have bought but it works a beaut in the reel and has become my new fave ree after lapping the new gears in with some toothpastel! :-*
Pity that bloke doesn't have any more of them.... All he wanted was $10 plus $5 to post to Oz... ;D
Quick question, after replacing the 3+1 drag stack in the 6/0, with a 5+1 ht100 and 1 under the main gear, what kind of usable drag should be expected out of this reel?
After I rebuilt my 114H with the 1+5 drag stack, I measured 26 pounds. Not bad when Penn advertises 28 pounds max. Tight lines with them! 8)
Rob
Tidetime,
Usable drag 17 lbs (without the stainless gear sleeve) maybe 22 lbs (with the stainless gear sleeve)... with my limited experience. If this is the 114h with posts only I would say about 3 or so lbs less than previous stated numbers. If you have the more modern version with the half frame I'd say the numbers above are more accurate. Now if you put a Tiburon frame on (like I have done to all of my 114h's) you can increase those numbers a bit. I usually don't go over 15 lbs. unless I'm testing gear out... I have gotten 28 lbs. in lockdown before, but I quit while I was ahead ;)
Dom
Dom: I have a 114HLW loaded with 80 lb mono. It has a full aluminum frame. I have caught several striped Marlin with that reel. It functions perfectly for fishing in Baja. That's because Marlin have a tendency to sun themselves on the surface. The 114 is usually set up with a hooked Cabalito or Mullet which is live and swimming in the bait tank. When a Marlin is spotted the 114 will allow for a cast of the live fish to the Marlin. I have the spool bearings open and lubricated with Corrision-x in order to be able to cast with it. I have used it with 25lbs of drag. Am I courting disaster with that heavy a drag? If that is too heavy a drag, what would you do? Dom
Hi all,
I've just finished rebuilding my 113H (red) and I have a small, but perplexing issue to resolve.
I had play in the spool as it could move to the left (maybe 1/8th of an inch or less), even with the left-side bearing wound fully down.
(Given the thread wear, it appears to have spent much of its life fully locked down.)
I dismantled both bearings and reassembled, with a couple of tiny brass washers under the left-side bearing.
This seems to have worked but, if I tip the reel to the right, I get a light rattle as it free-spools.
The problem disappears when I push the right-side bearing housing in a fraction.
My next step is to place a small brass washer under the right-side bearing, too, but I'd prefer a better solution if there is one.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Justin
Maybe, but you might have to shim the right side spool bearing. Do a little test, back up the two upper bridge screws about a quarter turn, the ones closer to the rings, don't use a powered screwdriver. See if that does anything. If that helps, you need to shave the screws a tiny bit, you could stroke them on a flat file. It could be something else entirely. You might need to replace the bearings. Good luck!
Cheers - will give it a go...
Sometimes filing down the tip of the jack right above the notch that slides in the eccentric also helps, but lets do one thing at a time.