Hey guys I have been looking for some SS screws for the jigmaster and other Penn reels that have the bakelite side plate with out the outer ring. Here is what I found and it's working great!! They are 316 stainless steel 5-40 screws from McMaster.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132311_zps90e21d0f.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132311_zps90e21d0f.jpg.html)
The screws side by side. SS one on the left.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132336_zps6d3d4100.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132336_zps6d3d4100.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132353_zps2c6271cc.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132353_zps2c6271cc.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132416_zpsd50e16b4.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132416_zpsd50e16b4.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132430_zps0521131f.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_132430_zps0521131f.jpg.html)
I think the screws look awesome. Just hope this helps someone
The reel looks good this way. Different in a good way
Mike
Thanks for sharing might be just what I am looking for. Did you have to do any alterations to the side plates Doug
Quote from: bluefish69 on December 16, 2014, 10:26:45 PM
The reel looks good this way. Different in a good way
Mike
I agree! I'm really liking the way the screws look!
Quote from: Doug on December 16, 2014, 10:29:05 PM
Thanks for sharing might be just what I am looking for. Did you have to do any alterations to the side plates Doug
No alteration at all. These are a direct drop in replacement!
Looks great, no more slipped screwdrivers scratching side plates.... Now you need to swap out those bridge plate screws! I did it on one of my reels, nice finishing touch. I did have to do some shade tree machining on the two clutch screws though. Not that big of a deal...
Cool
Yeah I also went through the SS screw mod's.
112H....
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-05/459AAF36-4F2A-4A5E-9039-B697C4245FAB_zps5f8bl4sw.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-05/459AAF36-4F2A-4A5E-9039-B697C4245FAB_zps5f8bl4sw.jpg.html)
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11/5A071F8C-C93D-4357-8678-A8BB990B914A_zpsapev4fpn.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-11/5A071F8C-C93D-4357-8678-A8BB990B914A_zpsapev4fpn.jpg.html)
114H
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12/3C088332-FEF6-4D47-9E54-EA115DFF0B6D_zpsczu2icnr.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12/3C088332-FEF6-4D47-9E54-EA115DFF0B6D_zpsczu2icnr.jpg.html)
And many,many others. About $250 to $300 in screws to McMaster. Had to have the bling ::)
Bob
Wow Bob! That's on another level than what I did! Very nice. I see you did the bridge screws on the 114h. Yeah, I want to do those to. But like cool said will take a little alteration. I'll save that for another day ;D
Yeah,well it doesn't make them any stronger or better.....just cooler 8)
How did you modify that eccentric lever? Is the procedure in another post already?
Doubled them up, one cut off. Clamped together. Than drilled and tapped. This reel worked flawlessly chunking here in the NE a couple months ago.
Or you could go this route....114HLW with the screw ground down. I really don't like this option though. :-\
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/2742A7BC-E083-4554-9619-13F878F9CF59_zpshmyxjvpp.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/2742A7BC-E083-4554-9619-13F878F9CF59_zpshmyxjvpp.jpg.html)
Too many sharp edges. I just got lazy.
Thanks for the tip on those screws fishstick. I definitely will be getting some of those for my Long Beaches and Jigmasters.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 17, 2014, 12:14:55 AM
Thanks for the tip on those screws fishstick. I definitely will be getting some of those for my Long Beaches and Jigmasters.
I have been using the SS screws for a while now. Sal gave the length dimensions.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on December 16, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
Hey guys I have been looking for some SS screws for the jigmaster and other Penn reels that have the bakelite side plate with out the outer ring. Here is what I found and it's working great!! They are 316 stainless steel 5-40 screws from McMaster.
I think the screws look awesome. Just hope this helps someone
Yes it does help, thanks Jason.
Take a pic of the plate sideways...if you don't mind, I want to see how much the head stick out. Thanks! Sal
I had a bunch from Jeff JVariance, I used to purchase 4 full kits at a time and requested some extra parts in case I needed them. I didn't like the way they stuck out on the stock plate, that's why I asked to see yours.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on December 16, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
Hey guys I have been looking for some SS screws for the jigmaster and other Penn reels that have the bakelite side plate with out the outer ring. Here is what I found and it's working great!! They are 316 stainless steel 5-40 screws from McMaster.
So that's were Alan got his screws from. I used those screws on all of the Accuplate conversions. Look good and no slipping of the screw driver to damage the sideplate.
Yeah no problem Sal. Here you go.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175109_zps5c4c079e.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175109_zps5c4c079e.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175158_zpse92e9a3e.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175158_zpse92e9a3e.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175222_zpsee2fd550.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175222_zpsee2fd550.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175229_zps2db64f79.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175229_zps2db64f79.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175250_zpsf9d8f741.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141216_175250_zpsf9d8f741.jpg.html)
As you can see they really don't stick out at all.
Quote from: Bryan Young on December 17, 2014, 01:40:23 AM
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on December 16, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
Hey guys I have been looking for some SS screws for the jigmaster and other Penn reels that have the bakelite side plate with out the outer ring. Here is what I found and it's working great!! They are 316 stainless steel 5-40 screws from McMaster.
So that's were Alan got his screws from. I used those screws on all of the Accuplate conversions. Look good and no slipping of the screw driver to damage the sideplate.
The no slip is nice. For the accuplates you will need at least a 1/2, if not a 5/8 screw.
correct, mcmaster has them. wish they had others.
Those don't look like the ones I have, yours fit much better. You did good Jason, now go find the ss screws for the bridge ;) ;D.
Thanks for taking the pics, I will be placing my order shortly ;D.
Sal
Is this the correct part# ? http://www.mcmaster.com/#92185A134
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 17, 2014, 03:53:13 AM
Those don't look like the ones I have, yours fit much better. You did good Jason, now go find the ss screws for the bridge ;) ;D.
Thanks for taking the pics, I will be placing my order shortly ;D.
Sal
Is this the correct part# ? http://www.mcmaster.com/#92185A134
Thanks Im glad I could offer something. We will see about the bridge screws ;)
Yup those are the exact ones, same part number I got.
Jason, I've noticed that you've also replaced the handle set screw. Dealing with the slotted screws there is crazy.
Did you use these or did you cut them down? http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196A124 .
they are 3/16", I thought 1/4" would be too long. maybe we need 1/8" :-\
I do not enjoy shortening ss screws. ;) ;D
Thanks again.
Sal
Adam gave me some for the Shark handles. I used one on the Purple WEX.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_2684_zps9157d53a.jpg)
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 17, 2014, 11:31:17 AM
Jason, I've noticed that you've also replaced the handle set screw. Dealing with the slotted screws there is crazy.
Did you use these or did you cut them down? http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196A124 .
they are 3/16", I thought 1/4" would be too long. maybe we need 1/8" :-\
I do not enjoy shortening ss screws. ;) ;D
Thanks again.
Sal
I cut them down. I screwed the screw into a old beat up handle then cut and Dremel the excess that's protruding out. The 3/16 would better but still might have to trim them though. Adam had some for sure. Bought had from him that came with one.
That's right, I forgot all about Adam. I'm sure he will let us know the size and where he got them from.
Ok guys, So I looked into getting screws for the accurate conversions as Bryan stated earlier. Here is what I found
I used the same socket head 5-40 thread 316 SS screws as before just different sizes. From what I can tell the accurate screws come in 3 different sizes. From left to right its 1/2", 5/8" and a 3/4" screw. The SS screws are right next them. As you can see for the 3/4" all I had was a 1in screw so later I just cut it to size, but Mcmaster has them in 3/4" size with the full thread.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_152821_zpsb846c503.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_152821_zpsb846c503.jpg.html)
I used mainly the 5/8" size for the most the screw replacement. Looks pretty nice and its a no slip screw.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_153725_zps9fb54420.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_153725_zps9fb54420.jpg.html)
The 1/2" screw is really only used if you are using the accurate frame as well. As the accurate frames have holes in the bottom where you can see the screw protruding if its to long.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_155942_zps7ba9f9fa.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_155942_zps7ba9f9fa.jpg.html)
Here is the Tiburon.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_160024_zps0f6623b2.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_160024_zps0f6623b2.jpg.html)
Lastly the 3/4" screw is used for the handle side plate. A longer screw is required because that part is raised to fit the bridge and gears.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_153838_zps4d4b60e5.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141229_153838_zps4d4b60e5.jpg.html)
Jason,
Keep up the good work Buddy!
These are some very useful tips. ;D
Quote from: alantani on December 17, 2014, 02:38:58 AM
correct, mcmaster has them. wish they had others.
I know what you mean Alan. Still looking for a good replacement for a lot of other reels. :-\
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 30, 2014, 06:41:51 AM
Jason,
Keep up the good work Buddy!
These are some very useful tips. ;D
Thanks Daron, Just trying to give back a little.
For you Newell guys here is a site that most you guys prob know but for those that dont here it is.
http://www.uluajunkies.com/shopnewell.html
Has all the SS screws you need from sideplate to bridge. Also, some cool accessories.
I exchanged a couple of emails with parts department at Mc Master Carr, about getting us some of the same ss screws for the 6/0's, they will check into it...we'll see.
The handle screws are too long, I thought Adam was going to help with where he got his from :-\.
I will also request the Acetal spring washers for the 4/0's and 6/0's, I'm liking it very much, besides making everything smoother, the star turns with little effort.
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 31, 2014, 09:51:50 PM
I exchanged a couple of emails with parts department at Mc Master Carr, about getting us some of the same ss screws for the 6/0's, they will check into it...we'll see.
The handle screws are too long, I thought Adam was going to help with where he got his from :-\.
I will also request the Acetal spring washers for the 4/0's and 6/0's, I'm liking it very much, besides making everything smoother, the star turns with little effort.
Nice! Have been talking to them about bridge screws. Trying to get the best ones for the yoke screws. I really like the Acetal washer idea, I will have to look into getting some.
I'm really liking the upgrade Jason! ;)
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_2761_zps62430641.jpg)
Looking good Daron!! It's a great little upgrade and the screws are no slip which is very nice! Now if I can just get one of those alantani wrenches I'll be good ;)
The Boss sells them. All you have to do is ask. I usually order a couple handles every few months anyway.
anybody got a source for the 114h sideplates? It's 8-40 isnt it? Didnt see them on McMaster
Quote from: Shiftee on January 12, 2015, 05:54:34 AM
anybody got a source for the 114h sideplates? It's 8-40 isnt it? Didnt see them on McMaster
I have not looked into the screws for the 114h. If anyone can confirm the thread size. I will track them down and see what I can find!
BMITCH posted some on the first page of this thread. They protrude out far, but do look nice. Maybe he can comment on where he got them!
The 114H does take a 8-40. I was having a tough time finding them so I went up a notch to the 10-32. This required tapping out the existing holes on the penn full frame.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-12/92274EC0-E700-4315-9405-48E3155D3D41_zpszs6uztj4.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-12/92274EC0-E700-4315-9405-48E3155D3D41_zpszs6uztj4.jpg.html)
On my 114HLW no problem. Only thing was that the free spool lever would get hung up on the one screw so I just ground it down. I still don't like this though. Too many sharp edges!!
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/2742A7BC-E083-4554-9619-13F878F9CF59_zpshmyxjvpp.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/2742A7BC-E083-4554-9619-13F878F9CF59_zpshmyxjvpp.jpg.html)
On my standard width 114h full frame you'll notice there are 3 addtional screws (standard full frame only uses 5 to a side) which I had to drill and tap. This was all for esthetics. The free spool lever was doubled up to clear the screw. Looks HD, but doesn't bring anything to the table as so far as strength.
(http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y502/MITSERVCS/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12/1EDF1969-3675-43AA-95DB-E82A603DEDA2_zpswl3zz917.jpg) (http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/MITSERVCS/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-12/1EDF1969-3675-43AA-95DB-E82A603DEDA2_zpswl3zz917.jpg.html)
In any case...the holes through the side plates need to be drilled out slightly in order to fit the 10-32 screw coming through. IMHO none of this needs to be done for strength reasons. I was just on a screw bender when doing this and not really satisfied with the screws that Penn was supplying. Lot of work for aesthetics.
Bob
BTW, all screws were from McMaster Carr.
For the bridge screws, did you have to file down the threads on the up bridge/yoke screws?
Jason, I believe that's what I did. Like two years ago....I need to tear these down again here shortly. I'll let ya know than for sure. Going to be doing a rebuild on my buddies 114H full frame in the next few weeks, so I'm gonna do the same thing to his. If you need that info right away I can take a look tonight and let ya know. I'm not with my reels right at the moment.
Bob
I tried to use unmodified screws on a Jigmaster for the Bridge/yoke and it wouldn't disengage. After chucking the screw up in drill press an filing the correct amount of threads away it worked fine.
Cool
Finally got around to refinishing my replacement screws for the black out 113 today. The socket caps look so much better on these reels. I also realized that scope/base screws are fairly common in #8-40. I had a couple laying around and they fit the 114HLW perfect. Found enough pachmayr's on ebay to get the job done. They are torx instead of hex but I still think it will be a vast improvement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1%3A15%20C1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1-15%20B1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1-15%20A1.jpg)
Quote from: BMITCH on January 12, 2015, 11:52:42 AM
Jason, I believe that's what I did. Like two years ago....I need to tear these down again here shortly. I'll let ya know than for sure. Going to be doing a rebuild on my buddies 114H full frame in the next few weeks, so I'm gonna do the same thing to his. If you need that info right away I can take a look tonight and let ya know. I'm not with my reels right at the moment.
Bob
Just got to see this Bob. Yes when you get a chance I would love to see how you did it. I'm look at some for the jigmaster right now and then on to the bigger penns.
CooldadE that's what I thought would be the best way. Just trying to figure the best way to do it with the minimum amount of alterations.
Quote from: Shiftee on January 13, 2015, 07:07:40 AM
Finally got around to refinishing my replacement screws for the black out 113 today. The socket caps look so much better on these reels. I also realized that scope/base screws are fairly common in #8-40. I had a couple laying around and they fit the 114HLW perfect. Found enough pachmayr's on ebay to get the job done. They are torx instead of hex but I still think it will be a vast improvement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1%3A15%20C1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1-15%20B1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74759557/SOC%29AlanTani/113HLW/1-15%20A1.jpg)
Again amazing work with that reel!! I might have to send you some things to spray with that coating ;) ;D
I saw those screws before, they aren't SS but much better than the screws Penn provides
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on January 13, 2015, 07:21:05 AM
Quote from: Shiftee on January 13, 2015, 07:07:40 AM
Finally got around to refinishing my replacement screws for the black out 113 today. The socket caps look so much better on these reels. I also realized that scope/base screws are fairly common in #8-40. I had a couple laying around and they fit the 114HLW perfect. Found enough pachmayr's on ebay to get the job done. They are torx instead of hex but I still think it will be a vast improvement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121536408741?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Again amazing work with that reel!! I might have to send you some things to spray with that coating ;) ;D
I saw those screws before, they aren't SS but much better than the screws Penn provides
Thanks again man. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. Just trying to decide whether to do the 114 to match it or switch it up and use some color. Absolutely, If you ever need anything done just let me know.
Yea black oxide, definitely a downside. Leupold has some stainless SS #8-40 but I couldnt find any long enough. At least I can cerakote them and keep the rust at bay.
That 'blacked out', stealth look is pretty cool. Pays to follow through on the details.
Much favor torx over hex. Have spun out hex but never torx. Good job.....GB
Quote from: CooldadE on January 12, 2015, 03:39:16 PM
I tried to use unmodified screws on a Jigmaster for the Bridge/yoke and it wouldn't disengage. After chucking the screw up in drill press an filing the correct amount of threads away it worked fine.
Cool
The way I modified the bridge/ yoke screws was to buy longer screws than are needed. I threaded two nuts down to the correct height locking them. Then chucked the portruding threaded section of the screw in my drill press filing the threads off down to the two locked nuts. Once threads are gone I removed one nut then used my Dremel to cut screw to length. Then removed the last nut chasing the threads. Screw is ready to go. It's not really fast but it is satisfying...
Cool
Tight lines can weigh in here..Penn used to fasten Internationals with chrome plated brass screws.. SS T-15 were conceived in reel heaven ;D....GB
Quote from: CooldadE on January 13, 2015, 07:54:26 AM
Quote from: CooldadE on January 12, 2015, 03:39:16 PM
I tried to use unmodified screws on a Jigmaster for the Bridge/yoke and it wouldn't disengage. After chucking the screw up in drill press an filing the correct amount of threads away it worked fine.
Cool
The way I modified the bridge/ yoke screws was to buy longer screws than are needed. I threaded two nuts down to the correct height locking them. Then chucked the portruding threaded section of the screw in my drill press filing the threads off down to the two locked nuts. Once threads are gone I removed one nut then used my Dremel to cut screw to length. Then removed the last nut chasing the threads. Screw is ready to go. It's not really fast but it is satisfying...
Cool
That's a really good idea! I like that for chasing the thread. Thanks for sharing.
ok what is the difference in 18-8 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel
Thanks
Dustin
Quote from: CooldadE on January 12, 2015, 03:39:16 PM
I tried to use unmodified screws on a Jigmaster for the Bridge/yoke and it wouldn't disengage. After chucking the screw up in drill press an filing the correct amount of threads away it worked fine.
Cool
I'm going through some of this on a couple of reels (Jigmaster and Surfmaster), and have some questions. Thanks in advance for any information.
What did you use to replace the bridge screws? A McMaster part number or link would be perfect, but just knowing the thread dimensions would be a big help.
Has anyone done anything to replace the slotted, flat-head screws under the right side plate on these reels? McMaster does have socket flat-had stainless machine screws. Is 82 degrees the right countersink angle on the reels? http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=vlgt3f
BTW, I didn't have an old handle to sacrifice to cut the handle lock screws, but the screw cutter in my wire stripper worked fine for that and for the reel stand screws. Pretty small screws, and pretty soft stainless, I guess.
Quote from: mike1010 on January 23, 2015, 10:13:08 PM
Quote from: CooldadE on January 12, 2015, 03:39:16 PM
I tried to use unmodified screws on a Jigmaster for the Bridge/yoke and it wouldn't disengage. After chucking the screw up in drill press an filing the correct amount of threads away it worked fine.
Cool
I'm going through some of this on a couple of reels (Jigmaster and Surfmaster), and have some questions. Thanks in advance for any information.
What did you use to replace the bridge screws? A McMaster part number or link would be perfect, but just knowing the thread dimensions would be a big help.
Has anyone done anything to replace the slotted, flat-head screws under the right side plate on these reels? McMaster does have socket flat-had stainless machine screws. Is 82 degrees the right countersink angle on the reels? http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=vlgt3f
BTW, I didn't have an old handle to sacrifice to cut the handle lock screws, but the screw cutter in my wire stripper worked fine for that and for the reel stand screws. Pretty small screws, and pretty soft stainless, I guess.
Mike, The screws I used for the bridge in my Jigmasters and 112H reels were the McMaster 92196A131 for the full threaded one (3/4") and the 92196A132 (1 1/4") for the one that needs to be modified to remove the threads in the upper .4040 (approx.) section toward the cap. I needed the extra length to thread a couple of nuts in screw and chuck in drill press to remove said threads.
Cool
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on January 23, 2015, 10:46:14 PM
Here is the link for the screws http://www.mcmaster.com/#92185a134/=vlhayr
As for the slotted. No the 82 degree heads won't fit. I think I found some screws that will fit but they have to be cut to size
That link does not go to the right screws. The bridge screws are heavier than 5-40, but are neither 6-32 or 8-32. I will make a run to home depot and figure that out. Also, they are closer to 7/10 than 3/8 long.
Cutting screws is no problem. What did you find?
Thanks again. We will figure this out.
Quote from: CooldadE on January 23, 2015, 11:01:22 PM
Mike, The screws I used for the bridge in my Jigmasters and 112H reels were the McMaster 92196A131 for the full threaded one (3/4") and the 92196A132 (1 1/4") for the one that needs to be modified to remove the threads in the upper .4040 (approx.) section toward the cap. I needed the extra length to thread a couple of nuts in screw and chuck in drill press to remove said threads.
Cool
5-40 looks right. Thanks.
Sorry that is the size for the side plate screw. The bridge screw is size 6-40
At the start of this post, these screws were only meant for the outer sideplate of Jigmasters and Long beach reels. They will probably work on Surfmasters as well, but the bridge screws are still stock. Shiftee is using a different reel and screws all together.
Lets not confuse the members watching us.
I'm using 5-40X3/4 for the bridge screws. The two that go through the clutch springs I just file the unused portion of the threads halfway down to the shank so the springs don't bind.
x2
I'm sure the bridge screws are 6-40. I welded up a ss jigmaster bridge and retapped to 6-40 to fit my 112h.
The bridge screws are definitely 6-40. When I first set out to get bridge screws I contacted Penn and asked them. They confirmed it was 6-40
Sal, you are right that thing have got a little scatter-shot, like my saying "not 5-40" then "yes 5-40" to the bridge screws. Would you believe a typo? That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
Jason and Cone, regarding the bridge screws: For my Jigmaster and Surfmaster they are 6-40, for certain. The relevant McMaster part number] is 921961761, which is 3/4" fully threaded. There is also 92196a765, which is 1" with threads only on the last 1/4". Too bad they don't have 3/4" with only 1/4" of thread. I am still looking for something like that.
CoolDade, what screws are you using to replace the slotted ones under the side plate?
Thanks.
--Mike
I really didn't look for some SS screws for those. I just greased up the original ones good and assembled.
Cool
Quote from: CooldadE on January 25, 2015, 01:50:09 AM
I really didn't look for some SS screws for those. I just greased up the original ones good and assembled.
Right. I meant to ask Jason that question.
The 6-40 is what fits perfectly. The 3/4 screw is to long and would have to be cut. Now the 5/8th screw is a perfect size and does not require shorting. I have recently switched over to using ss bridge screws. I took the above mentioned screw and then tapped off the threading at the tip that I would need, then took a dremel and slowly ground down the rest of the threading. I took a piece of 1000 grit sand paper and smoothed out the rest. Works like a charm and only took about 3mins a screw.
I have been very busy and have not been on here as much or have been able to put up pics of how I did this. I have some free time coming up and will post pics of what I did. Also, I have a build I will be posting as well.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 12, 2015, 02:56:28 AM
The 6-40 is what fits perfectly. The 3/4 screw is to long and would have to be cut. Now the 5/8th screw is a perfect size and does not require shorting. I have recently switched over to using ss bridge screws. I took the above mentioned screw and then tapped off the threading at the tip that I would need, then took a dremel and slowly ground down the rest of the threading. I took a piece of 1000 grit sand paper and smoothed out the rest. Works like a charm and only took about 3mins a screw.
I have been very busy and have not been on here as much or have been able to put up pics of how I did this. I have some free time coming up and will post pics of what I did. Also, I have a build I will be posting as well.
Thanks, that's pretty much what I did based on our previous discussions. I was asking to see what you had done with the flat head screws under the head plate, which hold the frame ring to the posts/bars/frame.
I just posted to another thread about a Surfmaster that includes these screw upgrades.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=11537.msg130276#msg130276
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Modifying screws is not my favorite thing to do but it does bear great results!
Ok, I have posted this else where on here but wanted to put it here as this is where it belongs. Here are the bridge screws for the jigmaster, most penn reels in that size class and up to 113h. They are 18-8 stainless, which just means they are basically 303 stainless. http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a138/=vzlbof
They will work well and only the yoke/bridge screws need to be modified. Some have various techniques. I dremel them and some chuck them in a drill and use a file.
Here is what it will look like.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_202348_zpsaj4yjsli.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_202348_zpsaj4yjsli.jpg.html)
Looks rough but works like a charm! Also, another member(mike1010) did a more refined job. The finish SS screw being the one at the bottom.
Quote from: mike1010 on February 12, 2015, 02:43:13 PM
Quote from: mike1010 on September 11, 2014, 07:06:38 PM
Thanks, all, for the suggestions to go the full monty route, but that has never been my intention for this reel.
I could not find partially threaded 6-40 SS cap screws long enough for the yoke bridge screws, so ended up turning down fully threaded ones. The result has less meat than the original screws, but the yoke moves smoothly, and the screws should be strong enough. Time will tell. Better Dremel skills evident here, I hope.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah101/mike101049/surfmaster%20makeover/IMG_20150211_122636730_HDR_zpspsa8b8uj.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/mike101049/media/surfmaster%20makeover/IMG_20150211_122636730_HDR_zpspsa8b8uj.jpg.html)
The result is this.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_210038_zpskoemekpj.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150214_210038_zpskoemekpj.jpg.html)
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150215_155419_zpsxbdbz62q.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150215_155419_zpsxbdbz62q.jpg.html)
This will also work great on accuplates for the jigmaster and 113h.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-02-20-01-16-25_zpscovszm67.png) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-02-20-01-16-25_zpscovszm67.png.html)
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate? Thanks.
Mike
Quote from: mike1010 on February 20, 2015, 04:18:17 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate? Thanks.
Mike
As I stated before I found screw replacements for this. Here they are.
The screws come from Ulua Junkies, which I think a few members are familiar with. http://www.uluajunkies.com/shopnewell.html Its the SS slotted screws in the 5/8 length. He has increased to $1.25 a screw which is why I have waited on posting these, trying to find more cost effective screws.
Here is what they look like next to the stock screws.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173752_zpsc7xn58ju.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173752_zpsc7xn58ju.jpg.html)
A little shorting is required. I didnt cut it to the same size as I am using an accurate frame and they can handle longer screws.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173919_zpsi1aioiqh.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173919_zpsi1aioiqh.jpg.html)
The screw isnt pretty as it was the first attempt, the others are all very clean. Practice is perfect! The one thing to note is it sits lightly higher than the stock. The top screw being the SS and the one below is the stock. I havent had a clearance issue myself.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173651_zpsmyf8waqj.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_173651_zpsmyf8waqj.jpg.html)
If clearance becomes an issue with the side plate just grind the outer edge alittle and it will fit perfect. Hopefully you can see the slight trimming i did to the edge.
(http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah105/jdanchise/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_174627_zps7qdzqan2.jpg) (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/jdanchise/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_174627_zps7qdzqan2.jpg.html)
Hope this helps.
I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool
I've done this two years ago, thanks to Irish Jigger, he put us on to these stainless steel screws from McMasters Carr, I miss that guy.
here I used Phillips head, they did stick up a little, but didn't have any issues with clearance. No need to shorten these, few sizes are available.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=6391.msg54290#msg54290
Sal
Quote from: CooldadE on February 21, 2015, 02:23:57 AM
I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool
I just used a dremel with a cutter attachment the second time very clean. Many ways to skin a cat.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 21, 2015, 02:33:49 AM
Quote from: CooldadE on February 21, 2015, 02:23:57 AM
I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool
I just used a dremel with a cutter attachment the second time very clean. Many ways to skin a cat.
I Love Cats... They taste Good !
Cool
I don't know if anyone is using them but microfasteners.com has many unusual thread patterns and are very reasonable for their screws. I needed 8-40 screws in a 1" length that I could not find anywhere. Microfasteners had dies available so I just make my own now. They are worth a glance.
Thanks
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 21, 2015, 01:57:35 AM
Quote from: mike1010 on February 20, 2015, 04:18:17 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate? Thanks.
Mike
As I stated before I found screw replacements for this. Here they are.
The screws come from Ulua Junkies, which I think a few members are familiar with. http://www.uluajunkies.com/shopnewell.html Its the SS slotted screws in the 5/8 length. He has increased to $1.25 a screw which is why I have waited on posting these, trying to find more cost effective screws.
Thanks, but I am looking for the socket head equivalent.
Quote from: mike1010 on February 21, 2015, 06:21:06 PM
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 21, 2015, 01:57:35 AM
Quote from: mike1010 on February 20, 2015, 04:18:17 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns price .65 cents ea. Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate? Thanks.
Mike
As I stated before I found screw replacements for this. Here they are.
The screws come from Ulua Junkies, which I think a few members are familiar with. http://www.uluajunkies.com/shopnewell.html Its the SS slotted screws in the 5/8 length. He has increased to $1.25 a screw which is why I have waited on posting these, trying to find more cost effective screws.
Thanks, but I am looking for the socket head equivalent.
You are looking to put sokcet head screws here?
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 22, 2015, 04:32:40 AM
You are looking to put sokcet head screws here?
Yes. The goal is to have only socket head screws in the reel. McMaster has socket flat heads, but I don't know if they fit the countersink in the ring.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=w0ru20
They wont, the if you want that then you will have to modify the screw. A few members here have done that.
Thanks. Sounds like if I want to pursue this, I need to up my game from a Dremel, and find a neighbor who has a drill press.
Do you guys know of anyone doing this with Penn 12/0 and Penn 14/0's? It seems possible. My fathers' company always orders all types of stainless steel hardware in bulk, seems like they can get pretty much anything.
Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks.
6/0 and larger Penn reels use 8-40 threaded screws. Any screw head can be modified with a dremel, drill press, grinder, or lathe if you have access to them. There is not a big selection of ss screws for the thread pitch that Penn uses. (5-40, 6/40, 8-40). The latest screws from Penn now seem to be ss not the old style chrome plated brass. You can check with McMaster-Carr as to what is available in the aftermarket. Rudy
hmm seems like I didnt seached effectively when I was looking fro SS hex screws for my 113h with tib frame.
I dropped the idea lots months ago and now I this.
one question before taking this idea again.
the stock penn sideplates screws have a a countersink on them, how the flat socket head hex screws fits so nicely on some reels?
you just keep tighten the screw until is flat / flush on the sideplate ring or do you modified them?
I did see some flat head SS hex screws with the counterskink on them already but everybody seems to choose the sockethead with the bigger hex for the looks I think
Alex, the flat heads are easily modified. I usually put a bit of masking tape on the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Give the head a dome shape with a file and a quick polish with some emery and your good to go.
You definitely don't want to crank the heck out of them!
All the best, .. Lou