As I mentioned in the 6/O thread, I had a Daiwa that I had acquired that was going to become a project, here it is
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_53_40_219842452.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_53_56_219851492.jpeg)
Does anyone know anything about these reels as far as production years go? Or had they ever owned and fished one? I noticed there was a mint condition one in original box on EBay a while back that the seller was asking $300 for. Not sure if these would be considered a collectors item.....
As you will see in the following pix, they share similarities with Penn's, but also have a few things that set them apart.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j393/westozwayward/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps5b6a211a.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/westozwayward/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps5b6a211a.jpg.html)
Here is the "bridge" assembly. It's actually all one big stainless plate with everything attached. I think this was done in a way as so the reel could be reversed to be configured for left hand wind as an option. You can see an extra dog post that is not utilized at this point. The plastic piece that the eccentric passes through is cracked in a couple of places and will need to be remade. The gear sleeve appears to be bronze, I think the pinion is stainless, main gear is steel. Ratio appears to be about 3:1, pretty slow.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_52_16_21981606.jpeg)
Here is the drag stack. The fibre washers are about 2mm thick! Obviously there is some improvements to be made here. I will have to check to see if dawn has suitably sized metals I could purchase and I will probably cut the CF myself to suit. There is a fibre under the gear, which will be replaced with Delrin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_54_34_2198617.jpeg)
It appears as though this reel had been stored in a bucket of salt water at some stage. These pix have been taken after I had carefully free'd everything up. The end of the eccentric key for the free spool lever broke away, you can see it in this pic.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_4_00_12_219921894.jpeg)
You can see a fair bit of pitting corrosion in the side plates, but I have a plan to fix and re-fair them.
All the post screws were seized, and a fair bit of time has been spent carefully working them free of the salt build up. Soaking in penetrene, hitting with hot air gun, dipping back into penetrene got most of them out. But a few were really stubborn, and the heads got mashed. Fortunately I can get replacements in stainless.
The left side has a plastic mount for the ratchet arrangement, also cracked. Currently held together by superglue. Will probably remake these plastic pieces from thick delrin sheet stock and mill the shapes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_50_57_219791701.jpeg)
I plan to make a stainless frame for this reel. I figure I can make it with a bit of welding fabrication, machining on the lathe, and some careful milling. I have someone with a mill who is interested in helping with this project.
Once again, this will be a very long term deal, but I could see potential in this reel, and I think I can make this into a brutal little winch in time.
Any suggestions appreciated.....except for scrapping it or shelving it. Already spent enough time opening it up to give up at this point.
And so it begins! ;D
:D :D ::)
Indeed!
This one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAIWA-SEALINE-300-FISHING-REEL-RARE-Made-in-Japan-NIB-/151536955109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23484e6ee5
Since it's coming out of Malaysia, klaxons are going off...
I have faith that you'll turn that disaster into a beauty!
Have made a little progress on this build. I have made the extra dog, set for alternating.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_53_06_219821045.jpeg)
And I'm in the process of fairing the side plates back. I'm using Devon Plastic steel epoxy for most of the filling work, but will use a thinner epoxy with filler when the larger pits are done. It's amazing how deep the pits were once you scape out all the loose corrosion powder. Felt like a dentist for a few hours scraping away at the bad spots. Once the bulk of the deposits were removed, the plates were soaked overnight in white vinegar to get rid of the fine bits you can't see.
The plates were then rinsed in fresh water for a few hours, then hit with brake cleaner to get rid of any grease and to make sure the surfaces were clean before applying the Devcon.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_56_12_219882292.jpeg)
Hopefully when I get home, they'll be ready for a coat or two of high build primer, more fairing, and then hopefully the top coats.
Rothmar, I can't wait to see what you do with this mess!!
Keep us in the loop..!
i'll bet it cleans up nice!
Good Work Rothmar! ;)
I know you will settle for nothing less than Perfection. ;D
Man!! That reel needs a lot of love :o
Marc..
Love these old Diawas the washers are so thick you can plus up the drag with the factory metal washers
very interesting about the devcon fill. what are you going to paint with and what color? nice work.
Hi thorhammer,
Tossing up two options, either a 2pac system, or will be emailing a place in Australia that does Cerakoting, although I have the feeling there will be an issue with the Devcon, and baking process for Cerakote, ie, will be too hot for the epoxy.
Probably go black, I'm a bit boring with colour. As I am planning to make a topless stainless frame (polished) for my mind that will be a "classic" look. It just won't do the original anodising any favours though.
I will keep the whole process posted on here. I would like to hear from anyone who has attempted this sort of thing before, if there are any tips they can give me.
Decided to make a 5 stack drag for this reel, and do away with this....check out the thickness of the original fibre washers, I think they may have expanded somewhat!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_12_25_57_219951571.jpeg)
They have expanded to the point where the top keyed washer was rubbing against the rim of the sleeve opening, you can see the chrome has been scraped off the brass in this pic
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_12_25_41_219942046.jpeg)
So I found some 0.7mm stainless shim steel and traced out a 5 stack of keyed and eared washers, and began producing the shapes
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_54_51_219871172.jpeg)
They were shaped with a combination of belt sander, dremel with the sanding drum, and needle files. Each washer took about 1 1/2hrs to make.
The completed stack, the carbon fibre is 0.6mm. So there is a fair bit of room to play with at the top of the stack compared with how it was.
There is still a bit more fine tuning with the metals, I will lap them, and there is a bit of rubbing against the side of the gear recess with one or more of the washers, but I will worry about this later. The C/F washers are ID 12mm, and OD 24mm.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_53_27_219831853.jpeg)
Fairing of the side plates is still ongoing, I just do odd bits here and there when I have a spare half hour or so. Hopefully will have these ready for high build priming when I get home, and then another round of fairing....anyone who has restored a boat will be able to relate.....
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_58_01_21990612.jpeg)
I have stripped the line from the spool to find that there is no major pitting, but whatever the coating was on it, is now flaking away. Thinking this might get the Cerakote treatment. Will have to ensure the shaft is well masked beforehand though.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_3_56_56_219882375.jpeg)
Trouble is, I have now acquired a Jigmaster, another project that I'm trying to find time for, which I'm also excited about because of all the upgrades now available. Will get a thread up on that one soon.
lookin good so far. multiple projects is killing me ...getting hard to remember what the little envelopes every day go to ....
Nice job Chris. I'm guessing the metal washers were all done by hand, How did you make the key cut?
Sal, I might do a bit of a "how to" for the key slots one day. But for these, the key is 10mm across the flats, and 6mm radius at the rounded ends. I mark the washers out on the stock by making a centre-pop, then use dividers to scribe the OD for the washer, the centre pop stops the dividers sliding all over the place. Then I take the original washer place it within the scribed circle, I just line it by eye, push down firmly with a couple of fingers, and carefully scribe the key form, being careful to not have anything slip. I then drill the centre out. For these, I used a 4 and then an 8mm drill. Slow chuck speed, about 250rpm, with plenty of cutting paste, as HSS drills won't last long drilling stainless. If you can afford them, use cobalt alloyed drills if you're going to drill a lot of stainless, they'll last much longer.
I can't stress enough that when it comes to filing, top quality nickel files are a must. With files, you get what you pay for. I bought a set of needle files from a machinists shop, and paid over $60 for them, money well spent. To file the shape, I first aim for the corners. Use a half round file for this. Don't initially try get the radii done at the same time, just file from the drilled hole straight to the corners, but don't quite reach the scribed lines. Initially you still need to be able see your marks. Once happy then use the half round, and a round file, and file down to your radii. Then use a flat file, with smooth sides, to finish by "roughing" down your flats. Then the tedious part comes, getting the key to fit. Very carefully use the same combination of files to ever so slightly widen the key a little at a time until it fits over the sleeve. Take it slow, check frequently you are keeping it even. If you don't have patience, you'll blow it every time. Once you get it to just fit over the sleeve, I use fine emery wrapped over the files to smooth off the surface of the filed keyway.
Then you start all over again on the OD.....
I think someone made the comment on here recently that they would rather mow the lawn than even think about trying to make keyed and eared drag washer.....there is a fair bit of merit in that statement.
But I love a challenge! And I'm a part time masochist!
If the top washer on the drag set is rubbing it will stop rubbing when the drag star is put on and turned just a bit.
Keep the pictures coming when you can.
Great Job Chris. I bet that reel is going to look nice by the time you are finished.
Quote from: handi2 on April 14, 2015, 10:32:06 PM
If the top washer on the drag set is rubbing it will stop rubbing when the drag star is put on and turned just a bit.
Keep the pictures coming when you can.
The rubbing was there even with star backed right off. I'll be making a new spacer eventually which will ensure this won't be an issue later when the reel's fish-able again.
Not going to go over the top with fairing and painting of the side plates, there will probably be a few little blemishes that will be visible on close inspection. I do actually want to fish with this reel eventually.
Next thing I will tackle is remaking the eccentric and free-spool lever.
But I've got some Jigmaster obligations first.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on April 14, 2015, 10:09:09 PM
Sal, I might do a bit of a "how to" for the key slots one day. But for these, the key is 10mm across the flats, and 6mm radius at the rounded ends. I mark the washers out on the stock by making a centre-pop, then use dividers to scribe the OD for the washer, the centre pop stops the dividers sliding all over the place. Then I take the original washer place it within the scribed circle, I just line it by eye, push down firmly with a couple of fingers, and carefully scribe the key form, being careful to not have anything slip. I then drill the centre out. For these, I used a 4 and then an 8mm drill. Slow chuck speed, about 250rpm, with plenty of cutting paste, as HSS drills won't last long drilling stainless. If you can afford them, use cobalt alloyed drills if you're going to drill a lot of stainless, they'll last much longer.
I can't stress enough that when it comes to filing, top quality nickel files are a must. With files, you get what you pay for. I bought a set of needle files from a machinists shop, and paid over $60 for them, money well spent. To file the shape, I first aim for the corners. Use a half round file for this. Don't initially try get the radii done at the same time, just file from the drilled hole straight to the corners, but don't quite reach the scribed lines. Initially you still need to be able see your marks. Once happy then use the half round, and a round file, and file down to your radii. Then use a flat file, with smooth sides, to finish by "roughing" down your flats. Then the tedious part comes, getting the key to fit. Very carefully use the same combination of files to ever so slightly widen the key a little at a time until it fits over the sleeve. Take it slow, check frequently you are keeping it even. If you don't have patience, you'll blow it every time. Once you get it to just fit over the sleeve, I use fine emery wrapped over the files to smooth off the surface of the filed keyway.
Then you start all over again on the OD.....
I think someone made the comment on here recently that they would rather mow the lawn than even think about trying to make keyed and eared drag washer.....there is a fair bit of merit in that statement.
But I love a challenge! And I'm a part time masochist!
Thank you for sharing your tricks Chris, I appreciate it.
I understand some things require lots of work, but if you enjoy doing it, its not so bad ;).
Your work is a testament to, if you want something done, don't let anything stop you!
Amazing work! Will be anice amazing reel to fish.
Hey rothmar! Curious, What happened to this little project?
G'day mate,
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. This one has taken a bit of a back seat to the Jigmaster. But I did end up getting the side plates faired, and they are currently getting sprayed by an acquaintance. They are being painted black. After all the epoxy filling an fairing back, two coats of a high build primer were sprayed and a further couple of rounds of wet/dry fairing have been done. I believe the black has been sprayed, and I'm waiting on clear coats to be applied. The fella who is doing this work does custom lure sprays, and I'm just waiting for him to get a big batch of sprays ready to be finished with the clear coating, and he will get my plates done with that batch.
I will get some pix up when I get them back.
Seeing as the Jigmaster has priority at the moment it will be a while before I get back to this one to complete it. But I have every intention of completing this reel.
can you advise what he's spraying with? i'm looking something durable in black for SS housings; I can bake but not ready to get into full cerakote.
thanks!
John
Quote from: thorhammer on December 18, 2015, 03:41:39 PM
can you advise what he's spraying with? i'm looking something durable in black for SS housings; I can bake but not ready to get into full cerakote.
thanks!
John
For sure John, I'll try and get as much detail about the paint types as I can for you. Will try and keep brand names out and keep it to chemical types.
OK, bit of an update here and some info.
Plates came back from the painter today. Still have to wait another day or so for the clear coat to cure, and then I'll carefully use a razor-blade to cut away the masking tape. I'm very happy with the result. Not perfect, but under the circumstances, they have come up well.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/21/10783_25_09_17_4_00_42_219931812.jpeg)
As for the paints used, it was one coat of a high build primer lightly thinned. This was done so as not to leave a too thick layer of primer as a base to break away. The plates had been rubbed back with 200 grit prior to priming.
Next it was two coats of a flat black automotive chasis paint. This paint is resistant to greases and oils, and quite tough. You can see the flat finish on the inside of the plates.
The clear coat on the outside is KBS Diamond clear coat (brand name). There is two thinned down layers. This is a relatively new product (in Australia at least). It's single pac, and does not set rock hard which is the reason we selected it. It means it shouldn't chip as easily as a two pac clear would, ie should be a more robust finish.
Hoping now that I have these back, I can make some more progress on this build. I'm going to look into re-making the plastic pieces that house the eccentric, on the right end, and the ratchet arrangement on the left plate, both of which are cracked. Will be using delrin for these.
that's nice! I've not forgotten this one...I have several SS's that work 10/10 but need some paint.
Hey Chris,
Nice project reel, should be a reliable reel after you get done with it.
I wanted to mention adjusting timing of the dog engagement. In the pic you posted of the dog assembly there is some play between the second dog engaging, you could file the contact surface of the dog, slowly shortening the dog to time with the second dog engagement.
From the pic, you should be able to time it to where there is very little handle backplay, or dual-engaging dogs but that would add a good amount of backplay compared.
-Scott
Thanks for the comments Scott. Have not worried too much about the timing of the dogs at this point. I am looking into getting a custom made SS sleeve for this reel, and I was going to see if we could get a couple of extra teeth on the A/R wheel. I will fine tune the dog timing then.
Either way, I'll be looking at alternating engagement. I'm a bit fussy about too much backplay. I don't intend on fishing too much drag with this reel in the short term anyway.
I said I may make an SS frame for this reel, but gonna be busy for quite a while producing a few Jigmaster frames. I'm looking into just getting this one in functioning condition, before getting into a beefing up project on it.
Regards Chris.
Great restoration job on a set of plates that most would have given up on. It's personal taste, but I think the gloss black plates look good - better than the original gold in any condition - not just better the rough set you started with.
I'm curious about the gear sleeve ratchet/AR wheel - it's obviously a different metal (SS?) than the sleeve - is it fixed in place or keyed to the sleeve relying on drag pressure on the main gear to hold it in place?
Mike
Chris,
I've noticed one of these in my locals second hand shop here in Darwin for $30. On the outside it looks in similar condition to yours originally was, I was just wondering if you are chasing another reels for parts or anything? If you are I am happy to help in the supply chain.
Cheers,
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Sorry I haven't seen this sooner. Currently at work in Singapore, and up to my neck in "it". Thanks for your offer and PM.
I won't be home until the end of April, but if the reel is still available then yes, I would be very interested in it.
Am happy to fix you up for postage etc. Thanks again for keeping a sharp eye out, and getting in contact.
No big deal if it has sold, but I doubt anyone would be as crazy as myself to try and restore one of these reels! :D
A few pics . . .
More pics coming . . .
Pics . . .
Some more . . .
Yep, more . . .
Last set of Pics . . .
How are they right or left hand retrieve? I thought gears were cutbin a certain pattern that would only allow for one or the other?
Quote from: Ruffy on April 01, 2016, 09:40:09 PM
How are they right or left hand retrieve? I thought gears were cut in a certain pattern that would only allow for one or the other?
I'm curious about that myself . . . Maybe the Gears are "Straight Cut", instead of "Helical" ???
There pictures on page one. They look straight cut and there is an extra dog post on the opposite side. The eccentric would be on the front of the reel in the left-hand configuration. The clicker is peculiar but can't tell much about it.
-steve