Greetings All,
I found a couple of 114H Special Senators (with posts) in my fathers attic. They appear to be well taken care of, but have been sitting for a very long time. I haven't taken them apart yet, but both work very smoothly. None of the screws are corroded and turn freely. There are a couple scratches here and there, but nothing major. The posts have salt residue, but clean up nicely. The spools, however, are a different story. Once I pulled all the line off them, the spools have a lot of corrosion where the line was. I don't think that I'll be able to remove it.
I like both reels and want to service/upgrade them. I would like to use them for grouper or big game fish off SE Florida. I don't mid putting a little money into them, since they were free to begin with. What should I upgrade and what priority? Obviously, new spools and drag. What should I look out for as I disassemble?
Thanks in advance,
Capt. Bob Pastor
If they were mine I would put Tiburon narrow kits, SS gearsleeves and AR dogs, HT-100 CF washers and better handle and handle arms.
BTW, welcome aboard.
Hi Captain Bob --
Welcome aboard!
Lee is right -- all of his recommended upgrades would be useful and make a stronger reel.
However, these are basically bulletproof old reels -- so you might decide to take it a step at a time -- depending on your fishing plans for these two old 6/0s.
Just my opinion, but let's take a look at the spools first -- can you post some pics?
I have seen very few spools that could not be saved -- as long as they are still running true and straight -- and it sounds like they are.
Then, whatever direction you decide after a few opinions on the spools -- will determine your next steps as to upgrades.
For sure, CF & SS drag stack, Delrin under gear washer, maybe a top one also -- this may be enough for the fishing you plan on doing.
Other upgrades would include SS gear sleeve, double dogs, SS gear kits, power handle and crank knob, Tiburon frame, appropriate size spools to your decisions, etc.
So you can spend between $25 to $300 on each reel -- so it is wise to make sure the finished product matches your planned usage.
This is just an opinion -- show us some pics, when you get a chance.
Best,
Fred
Soak the spools in some simple green overnight. If its going to come clean. This will do it. Just use a soft toothbrush to remove the corrosion. If it has eaten through the chrome, you will be left with brass showing.
I.ve taken some pictures but can't figure out how to upload them.
Duh!
Capt. Bob I have seen spools in much worse condition. Those spools will clean up nice and work just fine. Fred will have some great recommendations on restoring the spools.
I would metal polish them and make sure there are no sharp spots on the spool to damage the line. Use a wax on the spool to protect them from further damage. I use my sons surf wax to wax the spool and line especially at the bottom of the spool when first installing the new line.
Keith
That spool looks salvageable. Try the simple green thing. It will surprise you. ;)
The spool is not bad at all.
Try simple green. I've also used CLR to remove the calcium build up without any issues. Also removes rust left by the bearings.
If the spool is still rough, I mount the spool in my drill press or hand drill, place a bearing on a block of wood with a hold drilled in it for the shaft and spin the spool with the drill in one hand and the 600 or 1000 grit sand paper with a little bit of oil and spin away until smooth. the 1000 grit sand paper will make the brass underneath looked polished as well. Then clean and coat with a good wax before spooling new line.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 04, 2015, 12:37:26 AM
The spool is not bad at all.
Try simple green. I've also used CLR to remove the calcium build up without any issues. Also removes rust left by the bearings.
If the spool is still rough, I mount the spool in my drill press or hand drill, place a bearing on a block of wood with a hold drilled in it for the shaft and spin the spool with the drill in one hand and the 600 or 1000 grit sand paper with a little bit of oil and spin away until smooth. the 1000 grit sand paper will make the brass underneath looked polished as well. Then clean and coat with a good wax before spooling new line.
I do the same with a cordless drill and a hole drilled into the work bench. 1500 grit wet sandpaper with oil.
That is a great spool -- no issues with using it -- and the marks will not show after it is loaded with line.
Keith, Bryan, and Daron are right on -- many ways to fix it so the line will peel off smoothly.
My way is a little different -- since my equipment may be different from some repair guys -- before dsassembling the reel -- oil up the bearings, attach to a HD line winder, use "0000" steel wool--1000 or 1500 fine Emory cloth sanding tape -- get it as smooth as possible -- disassemble -- ULTRASONICALLY clean all parts, including the spool -- do your normal service and drag upgrade items -- reassemble -- attach back on the line winder -- wax with a soft cloth and chamois -- and your done. Quick and easy.
A pro like the above guys can handle a hand drill with a bearing or hole in a block of wood -- but there can be a danger of slightly tweaking a spool end -- if the spool is worked on in the reel it was designed for -- there are no issues.
Best,
Fred
Thanks for all the help. The Simple Green didn't work so I am going to try some CLR to see if I can get the crusting off.
The rings, plates, screws, and innards look great. The posts, stands, and handle, not so. Aside from the spools, everything else is just cosmetic.
I do bare bones fishing charters and plan on letting my clients use them. I want them to look as nice as possible.
I would still like to upgrade them piece by piece. What priority would you recommend?
New drag system, obviously. Then handle. Recommendations?
Tiburon frame, narrow vs. wide, why would I want one over the other? If I went with a new frame, I'd have to opt for a new spool, as well.
Why a second dog?
Thanks.
Quote from: foakes on February 04, 2015, 01:36:17 AM
That is a great spool -- no issues with using it -- and the marks will not show after it is loaded with line.
Keith, Bryan, and Daron are right on -- many ways to fix it so the line will peel off smoothly.
My way is a little different -- since my equipment may be different from some repair guys -- before dsassembling the reel -- oil up the bearings, attach to a HD line winder, use "0000" steel wool--1000 or 1500 fine Emory cloth sanding tape -- get it as smooth as possible -- disassemble -- ULTRASONICALLY clean all parts, including the spool -- do your normal service and drag upgrade items -- reassemble -- attach back on the line winder -- wax with a soft cloth and chamois -- and your done. Quick and easy.
A pro like the above guys can handle a hand drill with a bearing or hole in a block of wood -- but there can be a danger of slightly tweaking a spool end -- if the spool is worked on in the reel it was designed for -- there are no issues.
Best,
Fred
I knew Fred would come up with something different. Now I have another use for my expensive Triangle line winder. That would be much safer than using the drill.
I use a drill press to do this, either my large ne in the barn or a friends much smaller bench top one.
Well, the CLR did the trick. No need to polish the spools further, thanks.
I want to use these reels for big grouper and need to crank the drag down. I have to replace one bearing and am putting CF drags, stainless gears, dogs, and gear sleeves. Where can I get a Delrin under gear (and over) washer?
Any recommendations for a nice handle?
I'm not going to get new frames now, maybe later. Why would I choose narrow over wide?
Thanks.
I am having fits trying to remove the pin from the old brass gear sleeve. Any thoughts?
I use a home made pin punch from a nail punch so it looks similar one of the many pin punches shown
https://www.google.com/search?q=pin+punches&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&tbm=isch&imgil=prDkrbrALzPW7M%253A%253Bah5FPHUVFrdNgM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.harborfreight.com%25252F5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=prDkrbrALzPW7M%253A%252Cah5FPHUVFrdNgM%252C_&usg=__igkoYBEAx3DX-KQP3K_aTD6lZcs%3D&biw=1829&bih=927&ved=0CF8Qyjc&ei=QrjcVPOjOoSyyQS38YL4Dw#imgdii=_&imgrc=prDkrbrALzPW7M%253A%3Bah5FPHUVFrdNgM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.harborfreight.com%252Fmedia%252Fcatalog%252Fproduct%252Fcache%252F1%252Fimage%252F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%252Fi%252Fm%252Fimage_13725.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.harborfreight.com%252F5-piece-long-drive-pin-punch-set-93111.html%3B1200%3B1200
Hi Captain --
There are some good high-tech pin removers on the market -- but for me this is quick, dead simple, and inexpensive:
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/966C76F6-F10C-420B-B4CD-837FFA4700B5_zpshqsd8kpm.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/966C76F6-F10C-420B-B4CD-837FFA4700B5_zpshqsd8kpm.jpg.html)
Get 1/16" and 3/32" punches from Sears.
Why Sears? Because I break at least one of 1/16" punches every 6 months or so. Never broken a 3/32".
I always buy (2) -- then when one breaks -- I just keep on using the spare one -- then the next time I am in Sears, I just take the old one in -- and they hand me a brand new one over the counter -- no questions, no receipt, no drama -- just gets done with no additional expense. Craftsman -- guaranteed forever (or until they go out of business).
Best,
Fred
Yea, well I broke the 1/16 punch from my gunsmithing toolbox, but I got them removed. Unfortunately, I was sent the wrong SS gear sleeve. I'll have to wait until the proper one comes in.
Quote from: Capt. Bob Pastor on February 12, 2015, 11:18:08 AM
Well, the CLR did the trick. No need to polish the spools further, thanks.
Any pics??
Quote from: Capt. Bob Pastor on February 12, 2015, 11:18:08 AM
I want to use these reels for big grouper and need to crank the drag down.... am putting CF drags...
If you need more drags, check these CF drag set,,,
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12788.0
Quote from: Capt. Bob Pastor on February 12, 2015, 11:18:08 AM
Where can I get a Delrin under gear (and over) washer?
PM Dawn @ Smooth Drags
http://alantani.com/index.php?action=profile;u=383
Quote from: Capt. Bob Pastor on February 12, 2015, 11:18:08 AM
Any recommendations for a nice handle?
Check these out...
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12785.0
Quote from: Capt. Bob Pastor on February 12, 2015, 11:18:08 AM
I'm not going to get new frames now, maybe later. Why would I choose narrow over wide?
It depends how you're going to fish it... Narrow for jigging, wide for trolling
Just my two cents
Aloha!