Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Penn Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: Bearsharker on November 17, 2010, 04:37:33 PM

Title: longbeach 67
Post by: Bearsharker on November 17, 2010, 04:37:33 PM
Per my previous post regarding "a chart showing the relative sizes/strengths of penn reels", I did think of an old box of reels I had with a couple of badly maintained penn reels in it. Wallah - one of them was an old 67 (which had been recommended to me) I had never opened the reel up because it looked to be in too bad of shape.

I tore into it this morning and found the bait clicker badly corroded and completely frozen solid, of course. The pinion gear was frozen to the spool and a few other parts were missing. Everything was also dry and stuck but to my surprise, I found most parts were there and most were in good condition after I spent [too] much time cleaning it all up.

I have attached a few pics, but not sure if they will post in this note or not. I will work on that later, however, I do have a few questions.

I will continue searching this forum Alan, but I'm wondering what the simplest drag upgrade might be and if there are other internals I may want to consider replacing now.

The main gear seems to be steel. The gear sleeve is brass. The drag washers (two of them) are about .1 inches each. The three drag washers are brass, one being eared.

Both shafts on the ends of the spools were corroded but I think they cleaned up okay. I've seen that most people believe a spool replacement just isn't worth it. Besides being a little rough, there isn't any reason I couldn't still use this spool is there?

Thanks in advance everyone.
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: kamuwela on November 17, 2010, 07:06:50 PM
some emry cloth followed by a fine sand paper should be fine on the shafts. the spool is hard to see in your pics but the worst could happen would be a broken spool. i have seen a few 12/0 penn's with broken spools in the past                       good luck
                                                           kamu 
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Norcal Pescador on November 17, 2010, 10:24:24 PM
The time you spend cleaning is worth $$ in new parts. Replacing too many parts can easily cost more than a new reel. It's all in your priorities.

Now down off my soap box. I have Long Beach 60 that looked like yours in the picture before I worked on it. Like Kamu said, careful polishing of the shaft ends with fine [400 grit or finer] sandpaper/emery cloth should take care of the spool ends - check the insides of the bearings also and make sure they're clean. I cleaned up my spool [also loaded with green gunk] in the following order: brass brush scrubbing, emery cloth, then steel wool. Last thing before the line went on was a good application of brass polish [Brasso]. I don't care if brass is showing through or the chrome isn't perfect; it's a working reel and the line will cover most of it.

The posts got the same treatment and I ended up replacing the two worst ones.

Because it's a relatively lightweight [15-20#] reel, I went with stock parts and HT-100 washers [the whole set of metals and CF] and a #6-60 under the main gear in place of the fiber #4-60.

If you replace the left side plate, the clicker parts will come with it [from PennParts].

Alan's tutorial on the jigmaster or 111 will guide you along on the rebuild; they're all pretty similar.

Hope this helps.
Rob
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Bearsharker on November 17, 2010, 10:31:49 PM
Thanks guys. I'm using this to learn as much as anything but I do want to end up with as good a reel as I can when I'm done.

I think the spool and right bearing will be okay but it's missing the left bearing and spring. I've found I do need a new gear sleeve (98-60) since the top is rounded out a bit and the handle moves about 1/2 inch even when the handle nut is fairly tight.

I will go ahead and order the parts tonight and let you know how the repair turns out.

Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: alantani on November 17, 2010, 11:52:37 PM
for a reel like this, a stainless steel gear sleeve really helps, as well as a penn jigmaster power handle. 
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Whit on November 17, 2010, 11:53:39 PM
I soak my greenish parts in a mixture of (a lot of) vinegar and (a smidge of) baking soda overnight, before doing anthing with an emery cloth or sandpaper.  It's amazing what that mixture can accomplish!

Now, if i could figure a way to fold duct tape, coathanger wire or super glue into my answer, we'd have a perfect trifecta!

Whit
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Bryan Young on November 18, 2010, 02:54:08 PM
I was taught by my grand aunty an old Japanese trick, and this works with rusted items too.

Take the corroded item and place it in a pot.  Add Okinawan sweet potato (the purple one), add water, and boil until mush.  The chemical in the sweet potato and the agitation of the boiling water will clean the part off.  Used this method to clean antique tea pots.

Ancient Japanese secret...
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Bearsharker on November 23, 2010, 06:58:39 AM
Now, if I just knew where to get those Okinawan sweet potatoes....Hummm....

thanks again guys. added some methods and tools to my arsenal and wound up with a great little reel for us to use on our sharking trips.
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: BurningHeart on December 20, 2010, 05:35:29 PM
Quote from: alantani on November 17, 2010, 11:52:37 PM
for a reel like this, a stainless steel gear sleeve really helps, as well as a penn jigmaster power handle. 

Where can one find this particular handle sir?
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Steve-O on December 20, 2010, 08:12:41 PM
Burningheart,

If you go to this link for the Penn 2/0 rebuild you'll see both the Penn Power handle and the stainless steel gear sleeve being installed to 'hotrod' the ole 111.

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=44.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=44.0)

Then you can get them either on fleabay (if you have the patience to chase one down) or go to the source.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/24-56.aspx
(https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/24-56.aspx)
Call mysticparts.com....ask for Mo or "MizMo"....she is THE gal who will fix you right up with what you need.

I just ordered and received a bunch of parts including 6 power handles for some of my reels, plus some 98-60 Alan Tani SS gear sleeves.

Good luck!

Steve-O

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: alantani on December 21, 2010, 12:55:32 PM
i bought a bunch of jigmaster power handles quite a while back.  they are still for sale at the old price of $15.  let me know if you'd like one.  thanks!  alan
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: callelk on May 08, 2011, 02:39:56 PM
Quote from: alantani on December 21, 2010, 12:55:32 PM
i bought a bunch of jigmaster power handles quite a while back.  they are still for sale at the old price of $15.  let me know if you'd like one.  thanks!  alan

Allan, any handles left??

Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: Bryan Young on May 08, 2011, 05:10:46 PM
Alan still has them. Send him a PM with your name and address.
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: spottybastard on July 27, 2011, 01:55:33 AM
Just wondering, if instead of soaking internal parts that have turned green, could you drop them in a reloading tumbler, loaded with walnut shells?
Title: Re: longbeach 67
Post by: broadway on July 27, 2011, 03:11:15 AM
White vinegar in a tupperware will do it in an hour... no need for a tumbler.  More importantly it will kill the active corrosion.
Dom