Hello!
I have a question:What type of grease(name,ref. anything) the shimano spinning reels have when new?
Is it the permalube?what color should this grease have?
Thank you!
maka, welcome!!!! spinners are not my favorite reels to work on. short of a full tear down, your best bet might be to shoot it with aerosol corrosion x prior to fishing, then repeat after every trip. we have spinner guys here that should be able to help more.
Quote from: alantani on March 12, 2015, 09:12:47 PM
maka, welcome!!!! spinners are not my favorite reels to work on. short of a full tear down, your best bet might be to shoot it with aerosol corrosion x prior to fishing, then repeat after every trip. we have spinner guys here that should be able to help more.
Alan,as allways willing to help.Thank you!
My mistake,I didn't mentioned that i allways fish in fresh water.Is it still recommended corrosion x?
If you remember we had a chat a few weeks back about some reels I have and I told you(and I think it's worth mentioning again,so the mates know)that i really love the feel of a new rell(lol,who doesn't)I like it to be smooth,without the feel of the pinion gear rubbing on the worm shaft.That's what I am looking after.
thank you
corrosion x will be fine. it's much easier if you don't have salt water to deal with.
Quote from: maka on March 12, 2015, 09:03:54 PM
Hello!
I have a question:What type of grease(name,ref. anything) the shimano spinning reels have when new?
Is it the permalube?what color should this grease have?
Thank you!
Whatever it is it migrates off the gears very quickly, my usual procedure with Shimano gear is to spool the reel with line and then to proceed to strip it down and wash all the manufacturing swarf out of it... (Picture attached from a "BRAND NEW" Shimano Stradic 5000 FJ)
Some reels have a lot of the swarf and some have a fair bit but all new reels seem to have it regardless!
The grease colour is as pictured (picture attached).
swarf, must be a plinth twin
Thank you Slazmo!
Do you know what grease is that? what grease do you put in after cleaning it?
hi slazmo
never had a clue what a plinth was,
havent got a clue about swarf ;D
Quote from: Slazmo on March 13, 2015, 01:07:52 PM
Quote from: maka on March 13, 2015, 07:39:40 AM
Thank you Slazmo!
Do you know what grease is that? what grease do you put in after cleaning it?
I think shimano use their own branded grease (or re branded grease or one they get made for them). Very smooth and low NLGI that's why it just migrates away, nothing I can say definitively about its composition or even a msds or data sheet...
I use Mercury 2-4-C and in varying amounts for different applications around the reel and especially on drive gears and bearings.
And without forgetting I use Inox greases and oils also. I only use their products and nothing else. I trust them too much to try anything else!
I thin it down with Inox MX3 oil as needed in particular to reduce its weight and tackiness but not too much.
Swarf could be said to be machinery fallout / tooling fragments or general rubbish accompanying the manufacturing process during the building of each individual reel.
I find this swarf in new reels and in reels after their service intervals have been reached, metallic fragments needn't be removed as greases just hold this all in suspension and recycle them around the internals and that's why I stress "cleanliness is next to godliness - with machines"...
For my new spinners, I would spray in CorrosionX HD in the reel and pack the bearings with CorrosionX HD (open the bearings and spray CorrosionX HD in the bearing and reseal the bearing...and call it a day. I have not found thus far that CorrosionX HD reacts negatively with any grease used in the reels.
For ARBs, I either dunk them in CorrosionX, TSI301, or a blend of CorrosionX and TSI321 (4:1 ratio) and blow or drip out the excess
Quote from: Slazmo on March 13, 2015, 01:07:52 PM
Quote from: Slazmo on March 13, 2015, 01:07:52 PM
Quote from: maka on March 13, 2015, 07:39:40 AM
Thank you Slazmo!
Do you know what grease is that? what grease do you put in after cleaning it?
I think shimano use their own branded grease (or re branded grease or one they get made for them). Very smooth and low NLGI that's why it just migrates away, nothing I can say definitively about its composition or even a msds or data sheet...
I use Mercury 2-4-C and in varying amounts for different applications around the reel and especially on drive gears and bearings.
And without forgetting I use Inox greases and oils also. I only use their products and nothing else. I trust them too much to try anything else!
I thin it down with Inox MX3 oil as needed in particular to reduce its weight and tackiness but not too much.
Swarf could be said to be machinery fallout / tooling fragments or general rubbish accompanying the manufacturing process during the building of each individual reel.
I find this swarf in new reels and in reels after their service intervals have been reached, metallic fragments needn't be removed as greases just hold this all in suspension and recycle them around the internals and that's why I stress "cleanliness is next to godliness - with machines"...
in comparison with the "oem" grease,what's your impression about the Mercury in terms of smoothness?
Quote from: wallacewt on March 13, 2015, 08:24:08 AM
hi slazmo
never had a clue what a plinth was,
havent got a clue about swarf ;D
Swarf is schmutz of mechanical origins. ;D
Quote from: maka on March 13, 2015, 02:06:26 PMin comparison with the "oem" grease,what's your impression about the Mercury in terms of smoothness?
Shimano grease is like that girl you know and visit every now and again, however doesn't want a relationship at all.
Merc 2-4-C is like that clingy girl you know and you have to take out a AVO against.
Quote from: Slazmo on March 14, 2015, 11:23:26 AM
Quote from: maka on March 13, 2015, 02:06:26 PMin comparison with the "oem" grease,what's your impression about the Mercury in terms of smoothness?
Shimano grease is like that girl you know and visit every now and again, however doesn't want a relationship at all.
Merc 2-4-C is like that clingy girl you know and you have to take out a AVO against.
lol
is this the one?
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303326|2303327&id=179641
Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:34:26 AMhttp://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303326|2303327&id=179641
Yes thats it. However at $7.41 please someone send me about 30 tubes!!!! Its $21 AUD here in Australia per tube...
one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.
i have used some acetone,work's fine
I use this, safe to use on plastics and no harmful fumes, kind on the hands as well.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/de-solv-it-contractors-solvent-degreaser5ltr/31181#product_additional_details_container
Don't know if it is available in Spain
Quote from: Jerseymic on March 15, 2015, 08:15:12 PM
I use this, safe to use on plastics and no harmful fumes, kind on the hands as well.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/de-solv-it-contractors-solvent-degreaser5ltr/31181#product_additional_details_container
Don't know if it is available in Spain
look's good! i will try a degreaser next time
Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:42:51 PM
one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.
A brush and a zippo fluid works for me. After i strip the plates from all components and clean them with the brush and fluid a use liquid dish soap and a brush to wash them. Once they get dry they look like they came out of the production line. Only the plates though... You can dry them fast with hair dryer.
Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?
Quote from: zerofish on March 17, 2015, 08:39:40 AM
Quote from: maka on March 14, 2015, 11:42:51 PM
one more question..
what do you use to degrease the reel?I am a bit affraid to use something too strong,maybe I take off the decals on the outside of the reel.
A brush and a zippo fluid works for me. After i strip the plates from all components and clean them with the brush and fluid a use liquid dish soap and a brush to wash them. Once they get dry they look like they came out of the production line. Only the plates though... You can dry them fast with hair dryer.
Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?
thank's for the tip
[quote author=zerofish link=topic=13406.msg135940#msg135940 date=1426581580
Slazmo i have a Saros 3000F for service. Up till now i used Quantum Hot Sauce oil/grease. For the gears i'll go with the 2-4-C grease but for the worm shaft what would you recommend? Oil or grease?[/quote]
I would definitely use a degreaser and then wwash with water and wash again with warm soapy water and rinse after that!
I use the 2-4-C on then worm drive but don't over load it only to the top of the worm track. I only oil the moving areas where the bushings are.
I personally hate Hot Sauce for the colour and the false advertising of molecular attractions... Again advertising hooking people...
Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.
I actually like the red color of the oil because it helps me from overdoing it...
This is why i chose it.
Quote from: maka on March 15, 2015, 07:41:27 PMi have used some acetone,work's fine
Within regards to some degreasers and other harsh cleaners, be aware that these can denature plastics and can create brittle plastics from what were strong ones.
Break cleaner for example which was highly recommended to me in a prior life to clean my headlight inners, once sprayed onto plastics actually destroyed the plastic very aggressively.
When cleaning fishing reels and their associated parts - please keep it safe and simple! Also some solvents contain BENZINE... Keep your health in mind over every other objective.
Andrew
Quote from: johndtuttle on March 17, 2015, 02:55:53 PM
Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.
Shimano's worm pawl is stainless from what it seems to look, and the worm drive itself is Aluminium with a EI treatment of Tuffram - which is basically a anodising finish - however this is 'self lubricating'.
You will find that any excessive amounts of grease will be pushed out of the worm track and whats left is whats needed. However this worm drive area should be the most attended in any reel with a worm drive oscillation system.
I've just bought a "supertune" kit from U.S. for my 2015 rarenium 4000FB wich comes with 6+1 bearings.With this kit it will be a 10+1 bearings.I just hope i will be able to feel the difference ;D
Also some dg-10 permalube grease from Japan.I try to go OEM for the first time and if I don't like the result I wil go with some more specialized grease.
When I got this reel I also bought a kit of oil and grease in spray from shimano.The oil is ok,very thin but the grease...buah.It has a trasparent/grey color and it's not sticking to the gears very well.I will probably never gonna use it again.
Quote from: Slazmo on March 18, 2015, 08:57:59 AM
Quote from: johndtuttle on March 17, 2015, 02:55:53 PM
Worm gears I use oil (Corrosion-X). By nature they produce friction and rely on the different hardness of the metals to feel smooth (soft pawl, hard worm gear). Can feel a little sluggish with grease.
Shimano's worm pawl is stainless from what it seems to look, and the worm drive itself is Aluminium with a EI treatment of Tuffram - which is basically a anodising finish - however this is 'self lubricating'.
You will find that any excessive amounts of grease will be pushed out of the worm track and whats left is whats needed. However this worm drive area should be the most attended in any reel with a worm drive oscillation system.
yea, there is more than one way to construct worm gears just as we see with pinion and main. It is most common to use hard pawls and soft worms. However, I don't use marine grease on any of them. Certainly protection with marine grease is never to be faulted however, if the resulting performance is to your taste.
Quote from: maka on March 18, 2015, 11:01:53 AMWhen I got this reel I also bought a kit of oil and grease in spray from shimano. The oil is ok,very thin but the grease...buah. It has a trasparent/grey color and it's not sticking to the gears very well.I will probably never gonna use it again.
Ha, grease that doesnt stick - thats Shimano's stuff for you! Thats what I mean by getting the OEM stuff out and some better suited stuff in!
Re: Super tune kit - depends on the bearing quality, the tolerance of the bearing and the cup (for obvious reasons - Shimano aren't that great at getting this right 'OD vs. Bearing Cup ID') and further depends on the reels own internal state. All depends on a variable state of factors.
johndtuttle - Within regards to the Worm drive, feel yes its everyone's own need to have a certain response from winding their reels. However I find that a reel which is too "free" can suffer from a winding gear lash of sorts. Where one can wind too fast and the gears have a noise, somewhat to a rear differential in a four wheel drive. These gears tend to overstep themselves to some degree and make a noise of sorts.
Slowing this down with a little grease suppresses this process and keeps things nice and smooth. I find that a slower yet well lubed reel is far superior to a reel that is lightly lubricated and too easy to wind for many obvious reasons.
the bearings i've got are some ABEC 7 from hpr bearings ???
Something I learned a long time ago, less is more when it comes to lubricants on parts. The most important thing has been mentioned. The ability of a Lube to stick to the moving parts.
Quote from: Reel 224 on March 20, 2015, 12:59:20 PM
Something I learned a long time ago, less is more when it comes to lubricants on parts. The most important thing has been mentioned. The ability of a Lube to stick to the moving parts.
i've heard that at shimano they only grease half of the teeth on the pinion gear
Quote from: maka on March 20, 2015, 02:35:57 PM
Quote from: Reel 224 on March 20, 2015, 12:59:20 PM
Something I learned a long time ago, less is more when it comes to lubricants on parts. The most important thing has been mentioned. The ability of a Lube to stick to the moving parts.
i've heard that at shimano they only grease half of the teeth on the pinion gear
No, that is silly. You cannot only grease half of the teeth unless what you mean by that is that just they put a glob on one side only quickly during assembly.
Once the reel gets turned over it spreads equally over the rest of the teeth and 99% gets squirted out the sides regardless. We only get a micro film left behind after the gears get done meshing.
Yes exactly using less grease or oil is better then globing it on so heavy that it isn't doing any real good where it's needed, further more to much lube can be counter productive in a lot of cases. As was said the most important thing is the ability of the lubricant to hold on the parts. Also to much oil can attract dirt and cause additional wear,to much grease can cause gumming up of the gears making them sluggish over time. I believe what was meant in the statement about the Pinion gear on Shimano was to allow the grease to work it way threw the gear.
what about the shielded beargings? what is the best way to clean if i don't want to take out the "shield"
Quote from: maka on March 22, 2015, 09:30:00 PM
what about the shielded beargings? what is the best way to clean if i don't want to take out the "shield"
Soak in mineral spirits, agitatr, spin and dry. Though if they have old grease in them its tough to get it all cleaned out without removing the shields. I f you are going to pack em with fresh grease using a bearing packer, or the like, the new grease should drive most of the old out. Sonic cleaners are also great for cleaning bearings up.
Quote from: maka on March 22, 2015, 09:30:00 PM
what about the shielded beargings? what is the best way to clean if i don't want to take out the "shield"
Are you talking about press shields or those with the C shield clips?
If you can, always remove removable shields and service them that way. Press shield bearings, thats another whole kettle of fish!
ok
thanks again!
this is really embarrasing :-[
The bearing kit just arrived and i've opened the reel.The problem i have is that 2 washers fell off the reel and i dont know where they go.
The dimension are 9'85mm x 7'2mm.One is from brass and the other is steel/aluminium.I will attach some fotos:
I think they go on the pinion gear(16936) betwen this one and the bearing but i'm not sure and i don't know the order..if they go together,if the brass washer goes first,etc The pinion gear dimension is 7mm
(http://i62.tinypic.com/23t5xfb.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2wm2jnm.jpg)
(http://i57.tinypic.com/wtu1wp.jpg)
http://fish.shimano-eu.com/media/fishing/shimano/sefh/documents/exploded_views/15RARCI44FB_v1_m56577569830914842.pdf
they look the same as the washers used on the drive gear(there are 4 in there allready on the non marked side of the gear)
hope someone can help me :(
Those shims are added to align the gears. They normally don't appear in the schematics because they are used for fine adjustments, and may have more or less than what you see.
Not sure where they go...sorry.
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 24, 2015, 05:04:33 PM
Those shims are added to align the gears. They normally don't appear in the schematics because they are used for fine adjustments, and may have more or less than what you see.
Not sure where they go...sorry.
no,they don't appear :(
thank you anyway
my guess is that the shimming washer goes under the pinion bearing
it seem's that the best place for those washers is on the pinion gear on top of the bearing.I don't know exactly how they go but if i take them out the clicker when working the drag doesn't make any noise.
At the moment work's fine but i am still waiting for the permalube to arrive.Today i've just put another 3 bearing in it as for the 4th one(in the oscilating slider) i need to cut the existing bushing and i don't really want to cut it now.
Quote from: maka on March 24, 2015, 09:48:28 PM
it seem's that the best place for those washers is on the pinion gear on top of the bearing.I don't know exactly how they go but if i take them out the clicker when working the drag doesn't make any noise.
At the moment work's fine but i am still waiting for the permalube to arrive.Today i've just put another 3 bearing in it as for the 4th one(in the oscilating slider) i need to cut the existing bushing and i don't really want to cut it now.
Yes, if your gears are smooth they are also used to adjust the rotor height.
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 24, 2015, 06:21:47 PMmy guess is that the shimming washer goes under the pinion bearing
No shims exist in that size under the pinion bearing in Shimano reels. These will be for the LH side of the Drive Gear, and one shim may exist above the pinion gear Anti reverse sleeve - this is so that the rotor sits atop of it for whatever clearance it may give?
Quote from: maka on March 24, 2015, 04:12:42 PMthey look the same as the washers used on the drive gear(there are 4 in there allready on the non marked side of the gear) hope someone can help me :(
Maka,
The Stainless Steel washers are .20mm, the Bronze is .07mm, the Brass is .03mm
The Drive gear (LH Side) needs the following x2 Stainless steel, x2 Bronze and x 1 Brass.
Pinion Gear (on top of the Anti Reverse sleeve) needs 1x Brass washer.
Usual assembly of these washers is Stainless, Brass and Bronze on the outer most edge (to the bearing).
Once these all go back on, assemble and see what fitting you get within regards to 'tightness / ease of spinning', if there feels like a binding of gear noise (wind slowly & never force it "EVER"), you will have to disassemble and take out a washer, try a Stainless steel one and reapply the brass washer from atop the Pinion Anti Reverse sleeve.
The reel should go back together with the a minute amount of lateral play in the handle (left to right), it may take a little playing with shim thicknesses as I did to my reels yesterday.
Maka - do you have FB? I could show you my Servicing album which may explain this shim stacking issue to you a little better?
FB-> Andrew Slazmo
Quote from: Slazmo on March 25, 2015, 12:14:18 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 24, 2015, 06:21:47 PMmy guess is that the shimming washer goes under the pinion bearing
No shims exist in that size under the pinion bearing in Shimano reels. These will be for the LH side of the Drive Gear, and one shim may exist above the pinion gear Anti reverse sleeve - this is so that the rotor sits atop of it for whatever clearance it may give?
Quote from: maka on March 24, 2015, 04:12:42 PMthey look the same as the washers used on the drive gear(there are 4 in there allready on the non marked side of the gear) hope someone can help me :(
Maka,
The Stainless Steel washers are .20mm, the Brass is .07mm, the Bronze is .03mm
The Drive gear (LH Side) needs the following x2 Stainless steel, x2 Brass and x 1 Bronze.
Pinion Gear (on top of the Anti Reverse sleeve) needs 1x Brass washer.
Usual assembly of these washers is Stainless, Brass and Bronze on the outer most edge (to the bearing).
Once these all go back on, assemble and see what fitting you get within regards to 'tightness / ease of spinning', if there feels like a binding of gear noise (wind slowly & never force it "EVER"), you will have to disassemble and take out a washer, try a Stainless steel one and reapply the brass washer from atop the Pinion Anti Reverse sleeve.
The reel should go back together with the a minute amount of lateral play in the handle (left to right), it may take a little playing with shim thicknesses as I did to my reels yesterday.
Maka - do you have FB? I could show you my Servicing album which may explain this shim stacking issue to you a little better?
FB-> Andrew Slazmo
thank you for your time!
i will open the reel again now and tell you what i have.
on the drive gear,left hand(right hand in the schematics) were 4 washers as i can remember:1SS,2 brass,1 bronze
the 2 washers that felt off were 1 ss and 1 brass.they were together o the floor
under the rotor (15575)i have a thick bronze washer
http://fish.shimano-eu.com/media/fishing/shimano/sefh/documents/exploded_views/15RARCI44FB_v1_m56577569830914842.pdf
talking about the lateral play in the handle,i have some and if possible i would like to remove it
thank you again!
i will update this a bit later with some pictures
i added you on my facebook ;)
another dumm question..
the drag clicker,is it supposed so make noise when rotating the spool in one way or in both ways?
in my other reels it makes noise in both ways but in this one i'm not sure
wow Slazmo..you've just made a big mistake by giving me your FB lol :D.Now i will be your personal headache hihi
I am amaized with your pictures
Have some questions..
1. I changed the bushing on the rear os the ws with the bearing in the kit i've bought.I don't like the feel,it has more play than before,with the bushing.I made a washer 0'6mm thick and put in a teflon washer(in there before),the bearing,another teflon washer and my home made one.Still don't like the feel.Any ideas?
2.For the oscilating slider I also have a bearing but i don't quite want to cut it.As far as you know,is there any reel that has that part ready to fit on mine?I mean with a bearing instead of the bushing.
3.The handle and spool support bearing are in,so no trouble there.
4.How do you measure the amount of play?
thank you
Maka ill have to reply when i am on my laptop next. My phone isn't the best platform to type long winded replies sorry.
Anyhow feel free to look through my servicing album and comment / question etc.
Should be back on in the next few days. Busy boy as I have 8 reels to do in the next 2 days alone.
Best.
Andrew
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 10:25:14 AMthe drag clicker,is it supposed so make noise when rotating the spool in one way or in both ways? in my other reels it makes noise in both ways but in this one i'm not sure
Maka,
The new Shimano Spool support with the bearing setup is done so that when the drag is in use the audible alarm will occure, when the drag / spool is rotated in reverse against the line lay it will be silent. The black toothed plastic drag clicker housing rotates with the ticker pawl and is silent when spun in reverse.
Quote from: Slazmo on March 25, 2015, 12:52:48 PM
Maka ill have to reply when i am on my laptop next. My phone isn't the best platform to type long winded replies sorry.
Anyhow feel free to look through my servicing album and comment / question etc.
Should be back on in the next few days. Busy boy as I have 8 reels to do in the next 2 days alone.
Best.
Andrew
no problem,i'm still waiting for the grease,so nu rush
tell me what do you think about this when you can:
this is how i think they go and how they are installed now
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2cgkghg.jpg)
some wear on both oscilating guides
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2zf79tz.jpg)
and on the drive gear
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2ls6w6s.jpg)
at this point the reel work's fine but there is a point when i can hear a clicking noise(wich i am pretty sure comes from the oscilating pawl).I will probably put in again the ws bearing.
Maybe with some better grease and oil will work better.
Quote from: Slazmo on March 25, 2015, 12:14:18 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 24, 2015, 06:21:47 PMmy guess is that the shimming washer goes under the pinion bearing
No shims exist in that size under the pinion bearing in Shimano reels. These will be for the LH side of the Drive Gear, and one shim may exist above the pinion gear Anti reverse sleeve - this is so that the rotor sits atop of it for whatever clearance it may give?
Good to know. I took apart several spinners that had shims between the pinion gear and the pinion bearing to tighten up the gap so the pinion gear sat flush with the pinion support and the pinion bearing so there was very little up and down moment of the pinion gear before the rotor was attached to the pinion gear shaft.
finnaly and thank God my reel is back and working like a dream 8)
I think i've opened it probably 20 times these days lol
the clicking noise,it was caused by the oscilating guides..my mistake,i switched them.I saw that just today thanks to the wear.Apparently they have the same size and everything but the wear is not the same because the oscilating slider has in one side 2 support holes and in the other side just one,so the wear wasn't matching.
If I can help anyone with info or anything about this reel,just ask!
Thank you all for your patience and time! ;)
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMthis is how i think they go and how they are installed now
Just the Brass one on top of the Anti Reverse inner drum.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMsome wear on both oscilating guides
These slides on the newer reels are made from Aluminium and cant be polished due to that, they seem to be anodised to some degree and should be oiled periodically, I am seriously considering buying the Stainless Steel variants and installing them into my reels for better longevity.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMand on the drive gear
Thats normal. You would have seen the wear on some of the Shimano drive gears in my Servicing Album, some of which are many times worse than that, as long as its normal smooth wear with no gouging it is fine.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMat this point the reel work's fine but there is a point when i can hear a clicking noise (wich i am pretty sure comes from the oscilating pawl). I will probably put in again the ws bearing. Maybe with some better grease and oil will work better.
Constant clicking noise while winding? May be that there are too many shims on the drive gear forcing it too far across. See how much lateral shift of the gear exists now with the handle screwed in. Remove one and then rebuild and screw in handle, there should be like 1/1000th of a inch movement.
Andrew
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 25, 2015, 06:10:03 PMGood to know. I took apart several spinners that had shims between the pinion gear and the pinion bearing to tighten up the gap so the pinion gear sat flush with the pinion support and the pinion bearing so there was very little up and down moment of the pinion gear before the rotor was attached to the pinion gear shaft.
Correct that Daiwa employ this with their smaller reels that I have serviced. Its a Convex washer bent like a taco that is just there to hold up the pinion above the bearing.
However some people put one of those shim washers on top of the pinion gear this forcing down the gear into the pinion support because the bearing sits on top of it. When the rotor is installed and nut tightened that is all brought together and the pinion actually rises up off the bearing ever so slightly, no force is on that pinion support bearing (Shimano - X Ship bearing)
Quote from: Slazmo on March 28, 2015, 01:55:19 AM
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMthis is how i think they go and how they are installed now
1- Just the Brass one on top of the Anti Reverse inner drum.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMsome wear on both oscilating guides
2- These slides on the newer reels are made from Aluminium and cant be polished due to that, they seem to be anodised to some degree and should be oiled periodically, I am seriously considering buying the Stainless Steel variants and installing them into my reels for better longevity.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMand on the drive gear
3- Thats normal. You would have seen the wear on some of the Shimano drive gears in my Servicing Album, some of which are many times worse than that, as long as its normal smooth wear with no gouging it is fine.
Quote from: maka on March 25, 2015, 05:44:57 PMat this point the reel work's fine but there is a point when i can hear a clicking noise (wich i am pretty sure comes from the oscilating pawl). I will probably put in again the ws bearing. Maybe with some better grease and oil will work better.
4- Constant clicking noise while winding? May be that there are too many shims on the drive gear forcing it too far across. See how much lateral shift of the gear exists now with the handle screwed in. Remove one and then rebuild and screw in handle, there should be like 1/1000th of a inch movement.
Andrew
1-i will do that
2-I think you're right,they aren't moving parts so the balance won't be affected,just a very slight weight gain
3-This is insteresting...that gear is from anodized aluminium in my reel so probably it show's wear easyer than SS or some coated steel.Anyway the pattern is allmost identical on every teeth but it doesn't have the shape of the wear on your stradic we discuss yesterday.Due to it's color it's kinda hard to get in a picture but i will try to upload one better
4-I think that noise was caused by the oscilating pawl changing direction on the worm shaft.I switched the oscilanting guides betwen them and the clicking sound is gone ???
how do you meassure the play in the hadle?(lateral and radial)
Quotehow do you meassure the play in the hadle?(lateral and radial)
It'sa hbest guess at best. However you can measure bearings against bearings cup outside diameters.