So I just started and I ran into this problem. How do I remove the posts and base? As you can see in the pictures there are no screw heads to unscrew.
On the right side plate there are sex screws that need to be removed. This reel has the thru frame screws (which was a lame idea), so the right side place can come off. There are four long screws with 3/32" nuts that have to be removed to pull the frame apart. Throw the base and bars away because they're useless.
Now you can install the Tib frame with the screws provided.
Quote from: thinkwahoo on June 23, 2015, 04:42:08 PM
On the right side plate there are sex screws that need to be removed. This reel has the thru frame screws (which was a lame idea), so the right side place can come off. There are four long screws with 3/32" nuts that have to be removed to pull the frame apart. Throw the base and bars away because they're useless.
Now you can install the Tib frame with the screws provided.
I removed the nuts and the right side plate and the top cross bar however when I got to the left side plate I tried to pull it apart from the base and the posts but it didn't seem to budge. Are you saying that I have to pull the left side plate away from the bar and posts and they will simply pull out ?
They should simply pull off, however the main issue with these was that they corrode into the spacer bars. Dwight (Newell Nut) would be a good guy to talk to about this.
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on June 23, 2015, 09:26:19 PM
They should simply pull off, however the main issue with these was that they corrode into the spacer bars. Dwight (Newell Nut) would be a good guy to talk to about this.
I dismanteled the right side plate and removed al the 3/32" nuts and top cross bar and I pulled pretty hard on the base and posts. I guess i just have to pull harder? Maybe there's a trick to it. I'm afraid that if I pull any harder things might snap :-\
Bill,
Drizzle some w-40 or similar product around the pins and let them sit over night. Rap the end of the pins to get them started. When You have enough pin exposed to grab, use vise grips. Don't worry about hurting the pins; you don't need them for the conversion. I did the same conversion last winter with this method. Newell Nut may have a better plan.
Speedwagon2
Cover the postage and I will get it apart for you and not break anything. Warning to all one more time. Don't buy a used Newell when it has the long body bolts. Nothing but trouble. How do you know? Always look close at the left side plate. If there is no slotted screw head or Phillips then run from it. Worst mistake Mr Newell ever dreamed up.
Quote from: Newell Nut on June 24, 2015, 12:51:57 AM
Cover the postage and I will get it apart for you and not break anything. Warning to all one more time. Don't buy a used Newell when it has the long body bolts. Nothing but trouble. How do you know? Always look close at the left side plate. If there is no slotted screw head or Phillips then run from it. Worst mistake Mr Newell ever dreamed up.
Thanks for the offer , I really appreciate it. This thing does not appear to want to budge. I sent you a PM.
If you haven't sent the reel just screw the sex nuts on the thread post and hit them with a hammer. They should tap right out.
Hey, we're trying to keep this board rated 'PG' ... ;D
I wanted to the thank Dwight " Newell Nut " for helping me out with my tib conversion. I just got it back today and it looks fantastic!! Extremely smooth and feels real tight. Dwight really knows his stuff!
Thanks but just like anything else. When you play with them long enough it becomes easy work. Now go have some fun with that beauty and load the freezer.
awesome reel now.
I thinking if going with that same conversion after xmas to my 540 5.5 or just leave it stock with new carbontex drags
it looks really awesome stock
buddy, with the tib narrow conversion, do you use it as 60# rig or 50#?
Yep i hate those thru frame screws too. Glad you were able to get it disassembled. After getting the nuts removed i like to break the long bolts loose with a urathane head mallet. It's a 50/50 with long bolts, some slide apart easy, some have the bolts fall apart in your hands.
I have a narrow 533 I use with 50lb but I use tournament ande on it so it really breaks at 50 lbs. I would think 60lb should be ok as long as you use an aluminum spool. Maybe someone would know at what point the side plates would fail. I would think that would be the weak link
Quote from: Swami805 on November 21, 2016, 09:26:58 PM
I have a narrow 533 I use with 50lb but I use tournament ande on it so it really breaks at 50 lbs. I would think 60lb should be ok as long as you use an aluminum spool. Maybe someone would know at what point the side plates would fail. I would think that would be the weak link
I wouldn't be worried about the sideplates on a 500 series blowing up in regards to line size. Here in Hawaii its not uncommon to see 60-80lb mono, 150lb shock line and piano-wire leaders used on a 546-550 size and land very large GT's in deep water reefs. If you use a 5+1 drag kit it might be best to stiffen things up with a tiburon kit if your reel has graphite bars/base.