Like most outdoor folks -- we all have more than a few knives.
A dull knife is useless as well as dangerous.
Having used most everything from ceramic rods, to steel, to deburrers, to 3-stage stones, special honing oil, and many more -- this system is one to consider -- cheap, effective, easy.
While true that most professional knife makers use a belt system -- I cannot justify the expense for my use.
But this is probably the best I have run across so far -- it is accurate, quick, safe, efficient --
Works on any type of knife ranging from folders, fixed, kitchen, skinners, filleters, large and small.
It is just dead-simple -- without breaking the bank.
The belts are the key -- the finer the grit, the sharper the edge.
This guy knows how to explain things clearly, as well as to the point -- no drama, just results.
He must be the Alan Tani of knives...
Also, I know Daron and others have posted a few pics of their knives -- but how about just posting (1) pic of your favorite or most used knife. This can be a carry knife, sheath knife, fillet knife, skinner, pocket knife, kitchen knife, or? Doesn't matter of it is old, broken, worn, pristine, inexpensive, or? -- just as long as it is your favorite, and why you like it so well.
Sentimental, memories, utility, practical, quality, etc.
Best,
Fred
http://youtu.be/Ptspof6CXOg
http://youtu.be/_CbPK4k-gJs
Fred: That is a great post for a very reasonable price belt sander, I couldn't see where he was able to get the extra leather belt and dressing. Do you know where?
Joe
Just checked Harbor Freight and the sander is 44.99 so we need a labor day sale or something. Looked for extra belts and I did not see any fine grit available so they must come from someone else.
Quote from: Newell Nut on August 31, 2015, 07:08:21 PM
Just checked Harbor Freight and the sander is 44.99 so we need a labor day sale or something. Looked for extra belts and I did not see any fine grit available so they must come from someone else.
I did the same search earlier and could only find 120 grit and 80 grit 1X30" belts. In the video the guy said he had it at the bottom of the video, I couldn't see it. That is why I was asking Fred if he knew.
By the way that $44.99 price is the sale price, it's normally $59.99.
Joe
Well found the leather belt and abrasive stick on Amazon for $20+ not cheep. But I think they are worth the investment.
Joe
Pretty Neat Fred!
I need a little sander like that for reel parts anyway. ;D
On my favorite knives. I use a steel.
My Dad was a chef for 17 years. I bought him a nice set of Henckels . I have one of them.
Shop around a little --
Got mine from edgemasters -- quality company for knifemaker supplies -- up to 3000 grit.
Reasonable, quality products -- generally free shopping.
http://www.theedgemasters.com/SharpeningSuppliesforSale.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw9o-vBRCO0OLi2PfPkI8BEiQA8pdF4DvXmWLrluNLrfXJyyeBpVvznT9LXbQceyXaG9CwEicaAjPQ8P8HAQ
Amazon has many also --
You can generally get a 20% off coupon at Harbor Freight.
This isn't for your collector blades -- this is for the ones you count on every day -- whether in your pocket, boat, or on your belt.
I use an old Delta that I had setting around -- then I put a variable foot control on it off of an old Line Winder.
A leather belt lasts nearly forever if treated well with rouge and worked with a lubricant to keep it supple.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/4B56A5D5-7BC9-4D08-902D-077D613B0E3C_zpsw0r32hxr.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/4B56A5D5-7BC9-4D08-902D-077D613B0E3C_zpsw0r32hxr.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/FC15222E-D850-4EF8-9B6C-045CA88A2A39_zpsbkxoju96.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/FC15222E-D850-4EF8-9B6C-045CA88A2A39_zpsbkxoju96.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/E118D417-3D12-4E0B-B8CA-D3F7D0735A18_zpskqftklks.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/E118D417-3D12-4E0B-B8CA-D3F7D0735A18_zpskqftklks.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/ED69F543-22D7-4B32-BD19-2542905E67A6_zpseueobvix.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/ED69F543-22D7-4B32-BD19-2542905E67A6_zpseueobvix.jpg.html)
I would not use a belt sander on my expensive kitchen knives. They generate too much heat. I have an electric whetstone that has a water reservoir which keeps the stone wet while sharpening. I suppose you could use a belt sander but lightly and slowly. Touch the blade to make sure it does not get to hot. Getting the knife too hot can cause heat stains and loss of tempering. Dominick
You are right about the temperature and speed, Dominick.
However, possibly 95% of the experienced professional knifemakers -- use a variable speed belt sander exclusivley. These guys win awards against the best of the best, and make a fine living doing so -- with generally a 6 to 12 month back log on custom orders.
That is why it is good to go down to the Second Hand store -- and get a basketful of knives to practice on.
Salvation Army or the Veterans Thrift store generally, has them for $1.00. 50% off on Tuesday.
Funny thing is, you can get some really nice knives this way -- and some may become your go to knives -- if you have a sharp eye for steel and quality. One can tell the quality of the steel by the ringing sound it makes when tweaked by your fingernail. If it sounds deep like a bell -- it is a good one.
The average person does not know how to sharpen a knife --
On my Japanese cutlery, or even on my SS, Damascus, and Mastadon Ivory custom folders -- I use the 2000 grit, comtrolled lower speeds, and a light touch for an intuitive feel. Then touch up occasionally with the leather. Just like stropping a shaving razor.
Hard to beat a good ole Case knife, or a Marble's -- for the steel quality, though.
Best,
Fred
In have one that size and one that uses a 6" wide belt but I prefer to sharpen my knives with stones.
If you start with light pressure as the guy stated in the video and use a 220 or 300 grit belt there should be no problem, but he also stated that his method is not meant for collector grade knives. This is something that everyone has there own preference for doing that task. If you took notice he also used a leather belt with a compound to finish the blade. This is what professional knife sharpeners have done for years. I like using a stone for finishing my knives also, but for bringing a good edge to a really dull knife, the belt sander is a grate tool....IN THE RIGHT HANDS. I like the idea of that tool for many other reasons as well as knife sharpening. But I'm glad Fred posted the information because I plan on picking one up tomorrow from harbor freight for $45.00.
Joe
Belt sanders are fast... for production or what we use in the field.
For quality... Japanese whetstones... jmo
I tried a belt sander and it wasn't a good match for me. I use wetstones and steels. Has little to do with this thread, but my grandmother was a barber in the 30's & 40's. She had a straight-edge razor for trimming and shaving. For honing she used a deer antler. I still have her razor and antler in the same sock she stored it in.
another aside is that in the 90's I used to run into a knife sharpener who sharpened most of the knives for the local restaurants. He used a belt sander and I would say all of his knives were sharper than my hunting and filet knives. That is what encouraged me to get a belt sander. I just didn't have the touch for the belt sander. ::)
TomT
Tom: For years I shaved with a straight razor that belonged to my father, I used an India stone...which is very fine and a leather strop which had a rosin side and a leather side to finish the blade. Best shave I ever had, I just got lazy and started to use a new stile razor about 15 years ago. It's true that a stone will do a much finer job on a blade with lots of time and effort. I had a German steel hunting knife that I had honed to a razors edge that blade is still as sharp today as it was 45 years ago. My son has that knife today and still uses it for skinning and dressing deer.
I like the idea of the belt sander here because it is multi purposed and can do a decent job on a blade with care as well as shape small parts.
Joe
It's amazing what you can make with a drill press, a belt sander and time.
Most of my shapenings are chisels or plane irons; knives not so much.
A flattening plate is crucial.
I like a hollow grind so it's a grinding wheel and then water stones for the micro bevel. Leather strop or polishing after that helps but , for the work I do, skip it.
Really can't say what's best for a knife blade.
I know some guys use a spray adhesive on hardwood or plate glass and wet/dry papers and gets real sharp.
scary sharp.
this post was about knives... sorry to hijack
Quote from: Reel 224 on September 01, 2015, 03:53:15 AM
Tom: For years I shaved with a straight razor that belonged to my father, I used an India stone...which is very fine and a leather strop which had a rosin side and a leather side to finish the blade. Best shave I ever had, I just got lazy and started to use a new stile razor about 15 years ago. It's true that a stone will do a much finer job on a blade with lots of time and effort. I had a German steel hunting knife that I had honed to a razors edge that blade is still as sharp today as it was 45 years ago. My son has that knife today and still uses it for skinning and dressing deer.
I like the idea of the belt sander here because it is multi purposed and can do a decent job on a blade with care as well as shape small parts.
Joe
Looking at your photo, that razor don't work so good Joe :D ;)
I use this, it works like a charm and does chisels and scissors as well:
http://www.knifesharpners.co.za/shop/multi-edge/multi-edge-220/?catalog_mode=on
Quote from: Zimbass on September 01, 2015, 05:24:45 AM
Looking at your photo, that razor don't work so good Joe :D ;)
It does look like he missed a spot.
Oh you guys are tough ;D Joe
This is my everyday carry knife.
My Dad always taught me, whether out in the field, or out to dinner, or in Church -- a man should always have a clean handkerchief, a comb, two band aids in his wallet, and a pocket knife with more than one blade (in case one breaks, or is not the proper application).
Never forgot that -- old school, I guess. But it is surprising just how many times a day the pocket knife comes in handy.
No particular reason for this knife to be a favorite -- just a combination of sentimental family memories, decent quality, nice action, and old traditional design. Been in the family for around 70 years, or so.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/77A98250-CCF2-4CC5-878E-5890E8FEC3A3_zpstdfexuqx.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/77A98250-CCF2-4CC5-878E-5890E8FEC3A3_zpstdfexuqx.jpg.html)
i tried a belt sharpener a while back and didn't care for the way it left the tip, so i gave it to dad and he loves the thing. the edges are super clean and sharp, but all the tips of his knives are rounded. :-\
i've used a spyderco bench stone for my blades. it's ALOT of work and you have to keep after the blades constantly, but it's worth it. i carry a kershaw assist pocket knife and i love the way it freaks out the girls at work when i flip it open to open up an envelope or a bag of chips. i've always kept the blade spooky sharp. it makes a great letter opener!!!!!
1 x 30 belt sander 3m Trizact belts - finish with leather strop (glued to lump of mdf - stops the blade becoming convex ;))
Well gentleman and ladies, I purchased the 1"X30" belt sander from Harbor Freight today and set it up which took a little time but I found the one that I purchased to be powerful and very good for sharpening utility knives. I am very satisfied with it. You do have to adjust the belt support and table to allow for some clearance, about 1/16" to 1/8" As far as I'm concerned it was a great suggestion.
After setting up the belt sander Ruth and I celebrated with a bottle of Chainti Reserve 10 year old I had one large wine glass and some cheese and Peaches. Ill be honest, it's a wonder I am able to type on the computer right now ;) ;D It's been a while since I have drank any wine so I feel pretty good right now..thank you! Fred I have a pocket knife like that made by Remington with the choke blade for changing chokes in you shotgun and a punch for making a hole in a turkey leg for as tag.
Joe
Beautiful knife, Joe --
This is a good company to buy from --
In addition to carrying leather belts, grit up to 3000 -- and a ton of sharpening items -- they have a service where they sharpen knives to razor fineness -- with a 24 hour turn-around. They also do repairs.
Of course, most of us will sharpen our own -- or die trying...
The only reason I bring this up -- is since they use what they sell, have experts on board, offer service, and have great reviews -- and good value pricing -- they know what they are about.
No Pilgrims at this company -- no drama -- just results.
Not just an Amazon reseller -- they know blades.
Free shipping and reasonable pricing on tough to find items.
Check out the link:
http://www.theedgemasters.com/SharpeningSuppliesforSale.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw9o-vBRCO0OLi2PfPkI8BEiQA8pdF4DvXmWLrluNLrfXJyyeBpVvznT9LXbQceyXaG9CwEicaAjPQ8P8HAQ
I take my kitchen & fillet knives to a place in Brooklyn that sharpens knives for the Cooking Channel.
Mike
Take a pic or two for us when you Sober up Joe. :D
Be very careful if you use a leather belt on a belt sander. Whether just plain oiled, or loaded with chrome dioxide or similar - they are agressive. They can create a bigger burr instead of removing one. I did try one (and really percevered for some time) I went back to using a strop mounted on mdf (to prevent the blade becoming convex). Another thing with power belt strops is they sttrrreeeetch very easily. When done remove immediately. I didn't (costly mistake ::))
The belts I would recommend are 3M Trizact. They ar not the cheapest but -they don't clog - they outlast cheap belts by a country mile - For metal I won't use anything else.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 02, 2015, 04:56:47 AM
Take a pic or two for us when you Sober up Joe. :D
I'm sober and ready to take some pictures. That wine really did go straight to my head ;D
I found this interesting discussion as my wife is ordering the Spiderco set I put in her Amazon order basket this week. I'll see how that works.
Here's a cool video about Master Bladesmith Bob Kramer. In the video, he makes a Damascas steel chef knife, starting from a piece of iron ore. The source of the ore (probably more for the "wow" factor) is a meteorite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4x0f2b_0kn0
My Carry Knife is a buck 3 blade stockman. 371.
I picked this up at a gun show years ago for a few bucks. I use it for everything.
From opening packages to prying off side plates.
I have a big Kershaw like the Boss has, but its just too big to Carry.
Thank you for the Bob Kramer video. Great stuff. My father was a pattern maker. He taught me how to use a stone and finish the sharpening with a leather strop, a leather boot in the field, or a rouged polishing wheel. My pocket knives were always the envy of the other kids and not too infrequently, I was to blame for my friends going home with bleeding fingers after sharpening their knives. Once they learned to appreciate what a sharp knife could do, they quickly learned caution. My father always said a dull knife or gouge was more dangerous than a sharp one.
I have to admit my ability to sharpen knives more than once got me introduced to single ladies with a drawer full of dull knives :). Cheers to this site, I learn something new every day!
Fred and floatdoc thanx for the videos, I highly appreciate them. I have to admit Im a bit of a knife collector and enjoy knife topics. Knives are an integral part of fishing and deserve discussion here for after all they are edged-tools as reels are tools which we maintain so why not knives as well. I have to bring attention to when Bob Kramer stropped the knife on the leather and then did the push cut on the paper and you could barely hear the paper "scream" in a high pitch. For anyone who has spent time sharpening knives that sound is the ultimate; what ever you do dont let that blade fall against your body.
There are several good knife posts floating around on this site. I know there may only be a handful of knife posts however, it would be nice to have them in a central location if its not too much trouble for Alan for just a few posts.
This is the system that I use on my fillet knives. It is easy and fast.
http://www.worksharptools.com/sharpeners-12/power-sharpeners/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html
Hey Daron I used to carry one of the old style Bucks and before that Case. This is what I carry now. It is small and light weight and stays razor sharp. Dominick
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd459/lmdl4law/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20011_zpstjirctvp.jpg) (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20011_zpstjirctvp.jpg.html)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd459/lmdl4law/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20012_zpsljxdmszh.jpg) (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20012_zpsljxdmszh.jpg.html)
Inflation, I suppose. ;D
Quote from: Dominick on September 07, 2015, 02:17:40 AM
Hey Daron I used to carry one of the old style Bucks and before that Case. This is what I carry now. It is small and light weight and stays razor sharp. Dominick
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd459/lmdl4law/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20011_zpstjirctvp.jpg) (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20011_zpstjirctvp.jpg.html)
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd459/lmdl4law/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20012_zpsljxdmszh.jpg) (http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/RIFLE%20AND%20KNIFE/MARLIN%20RIFLE%20AND%20BUCK%20KNIFE%20012_zpsljxdmszh.jpg.html)
That should get it Done Dominick. I just like the three blade pocket knives. I carried an Old Timer before the Buck. I have a lot of knives. When I was stationed in England. I bought every Swiss Army knife that was made at the time. The biggest one is ridiculous. It even has a clock. ;D
It was called the Super Timer. Pardon the revolver, I had to take it out to get to the knife.
I like the little Buck 283. Mine replaced a similar sized Buck 425 that I thought was lost. I also have a 284 and 285. They're inexpensive knives, but very light weight/easy to carry, work well and hold an edge.
Thanks so much for posting this. I don't have any really high end knives, but I do have 2 nice Henckels chefs knives in the kitchen and a handful of various Dexter high carbon steel knives for cleaning fish.
I've been trying to improve my skills on a stone for the last 5 years or so. I have a bunch of different stones and a ton of various gadgets (the gadgets are all garbage). I can get my knives more or less where I want them, but sometimes it takes forever. I think this is due to both my lack of skill and using too fine a grade of stone for the stage of sharpening the knife is at. My next purchase was going to be an extra coarse diamond stone, something that would aggressively remove steel from a truly dull knife, but I think I'll pursue the sander instead. The diamond stones I was looking at were all around 50$ anyway.
I do my best not to let my knives ever get that bad, but that doesn't help me when I get my parents' knives or my girlfriend's knives to sharpen. The long, thin bladed, flexible filet knives have also always been a pain in the butt for me.
One thing that has really helped is keeping a steel handy and giving a couple of swipes before and after each use. The Henkels especially need the stone far less frequently if I use the steel with each use. The Dexters are much softer, dull quicker, but also take an edge much faster than the stainless.
I still have a few really nice pocket knives but for the past 20 years of flying a lot and working on nukes you learn not to carry a knife so I got out of the habit and never carry one anymore except for hunting and fishing. I am glad that I grew up in a time when all the boys in school had a pocket knife and it never created a problem and was not against the rules. We really have a messed up society now.
I made a short video of my knife sharpener. I'm the handsome guy sharpening the knives. :D Dominick
http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/SHARPENING%20KNIVES/Sharpening%20knives%20001_zpsrimnohom.mp4.html
Very nicely done, Counselor!
Was there someone else in the video I couldn't see?
Guess I'm confused -- You said you were the handsome guy???
Good video skills.
Did you take that with an ipad, iphone, video recorder, or?
Best,
Fred
Fred, I should have given a panoramic view of the garage. I might just do that on the next video. The camera is a Hi Def Panasonic Lumix with a Leica lens. It is a fine camera for its size. It shoots a16 mega pixels image. I really like it. It is a point and shoot camera with video capabilities. Dominick
Hey, good job Dom.
One thing that has really helped is keeping a steel handy and giving a couple of swipes before and after each use. The Henkels especially need the stone far less frequently if I use the steel with each use. The Dexters are much softer, dull quicker, but also take an edge much faster than the stainless.
I have both types & brands of knives. On one of the cooking shows--I believe it was Alton Brown and many years ago--he said that even professional chefs need their knives sharpened only ONCE per year. But he did say that you use the sharpening steel--which is actually not a sharpener, but a honer--You use the steel EVERY time before you use the knife. Using the steel really makes a difference. I do not follow the chef's advice and I only use my knifes in my home and I sharpen them probably 2 to 3 times per year. I do use the steel fairly often and it does make a difference.
TomT
A 'so called' sharpening steel in the wrong hands can ruin a fine knife. I have never really been happy using one. I use a 5000 grit ceramic cone (angled at 12 degrees to the vertical). Simply hold the blade vertical and draw back on the cone. All my kitchen knives are ground at 12 degrees. For field knives (20 degrees) I use a leather strop (glued to mdf). I 're-shape' my blades 1 or 2 times a year using a belt sander (2000 grit) or Lansky.
Fred: My knife.
Hey Joe good to have you back. How are you feeling? Dominick
Great Video Dominick.
I used the Henkle steel on my fillet knife after every fish cutting at the beach.
It wouldn't do the paper cut like the Kramer, but it keeps it sharp enough to do some damage.
Cutting through a 10 lb fish backbone is easy with a sharp knife.
Quote from: Dominick on September 12, 2015, 12:03:57 AM
I made a short video of my knife sharpener. I'm the handsome guy sharpening the knives. :D Dominick
http://s1220.photobucket.com/user/lmdl4law/media/SHARPENING%20KNIVES/Sharpening%20knives%20001_zpsrimnohom.mp4.html
Nice video Dom! Like the white apron.
I bought the spyderco kit. It seems to work quite well, so far.
I mainly want to keep my kitchen knives sharp. It's all on me; my wife only uses them and washes them. If I'm home more, they stay sharper since I will give them a hone on the steel before every use, but I work lots of hours, so the knives need more of my attention.
They are a mix of quality. I have both forged and stamped stainless steel K Sabatier (French brand) from their outlet on I95 in S Carolina, an old wood handle set of Brazilian made JA Henckels from a garage sale, my latest buy which is a Dexter DuoGlide 40013, plus some unlabelled knives ranging from surprisingly good to poor quality. I'm in the process of weeding out the junk.
The K Sabatier knives are fine quality, and are reasonably priced at the outlet. My wife bought me a forged blade fillet knife from the outlet last year for my birthday. Thirteen months later, I haven't tried it out yet :(.
The Henckels are pretty good, but I have to oil the handles regularly. The wood on the ones that get the most use is beginning to dry out pretty badly.
I really like the new Dexter. I don't know if it's a really high quality knife, but it takes an edge really well. I haven't had it long enough to know how it's going to hold up. It's an innovative design and great to work with. It's specially designed for people with arthritis or repetitive motion syndrome/carpal tunnel syndrome.
The Dexter is about half price at this site: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/dexter-russell-40013-duo-glide-5-utility-knife/21040013.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CJvBrYykxcgCFU6PHwodINYESg
It took me a little bit to find this thread again.
I finally got around to buying me a sander,
The Dremel can only do so much, this is no precision instrument, but I think it will fit my needs.
My main problem is sanding down thin pieces of titanium or stainless for springs.
This made a two hour job into 15 minutes.
There is seven perfect stainless dog springs made from windshield wiper inserts.
50 more and it will be paid for. ;)
Windshield wiper inserts? Do tell!
Daron,
Now that looks like a great tool to have on the bench.
I am thinking about taking Dwight's recommendation and purchasing this one...
http://www.worksharptools.com/sharpeners-14/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html
He uses it alot on his custom rod work.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on January 02, 2016, 03:42:55 PM
Daron,
Now that looks like a great tool to have on the bench.
I am thinking about taking Dwight'so recommendation and purchasing this one...
http://www.worksharptools.com/sharpeners-14/work-sharp-knife-and-tool-sharpener.html
He uses it alot on his custom rod work.
I could see where that would be handy for grinding down the guide feet.
Joe
Quote from: sdlehr on January 02, 2016, 05:09:24 AM
Windshield wiper inserts? Do tell!
Sid,
Look in General Questions and Troubleshooting, Tip of the day, Page 9.
Joe,
I was looking at the sander you bought and The thin belt would take me forever to sand down a long thin piece of stainless.
I can make six or seven at a time with the 4" belt.
The sander I bought was on red tag last week with a 20% off coupon, I got it for $65.
It works great, but looks dangerous with no guards on it.
The Worksharp is a great little tool - but it is very expensive on belts (at least in the UK :()
I made a simple jig to fit a 1x30 belt sander - much cheaper to run particularly with Trizact belts (they are the dogs danglers).
There are plenty of Youtube vids that show how. But do use the Trizact belts they are so much better than the cheap ones :)
Sid,
Look in General Questions and Troubleshooting, Tip of the day, Page 9.[/quote]
Thanks!
My wife bought me the basic worksharp last Christmas, and after watching lots of videos, and screwing up the points of a couple cheap knives, I have gotten wicked good with it (I think that's the word you over on the wrong coast use.) The secret is consistency, as it is with everything else. Raise a consistent burr on one side, and work it over to the other, then switch gritts.
Also, frequency, it is so much easier to hone an edge every couple of days than to start from scratch once every month. Knife always cuts well that way also.
Ron
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 02, 2016, 07:05:32 PM
Quote from: sdlehr on January 02, 2016, 05:09:24 AM
Windshield wiper inserts? Do tell!
Sid,
Look in General Questions and Troubleshooting, Tip of the day, Page 9.
Joe,
I was looking at the sander you bought and The thin belt would take me forever to sand down a long thin piece of stainless.
I can make six or seven at a time with the 4" belt.
The sander I bought was on red tag last week with a 20% off coupon, I got it for $65.
It works great, but looks dangerous with no guards on it.
Yes definitely it is heavy duty. But I was talking about the sander that Dwight suggested to Tightlines 666, as being good for sanding down guide feet.
Joe