So I'm working on another Avet. First, let me say that I love Avet as a company. One of my favorite brands. However, with that said, I keep encountering the same issue with these reels. The seized pinon bearing. The last four Avets I worked on all had this issue. Not only is it stuck but the bearing is trashed. My method for removal has been trying to pry it out. I successfully was able to remove two of them but these last two I can't get out to save my life.
You guys have any do it yourself style tricks? Perhaps it's time I invested in a bearing puller.
Same issue here. The last one I did by removing *everything* else from the head plate, and then heating the plate to 350 in our toaster oven and hitting the bearing with just a touch of cold propellant from a can of keyboard duster. The bearing flew across the room. Entertaining as that was, I would really like a better way to remove those pinion bearings. As a hobbyist, I am not ready to take the bearing puller plunge. I even wonder how that mini bearing puller would do with these "blind" bearings. Doesn't it have to get under them? There's not much clearance there.
Mike
You can make a bearing puller out of a deck screw.
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g104/IGFA19Keta/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg) (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/IGFA19Keta/media/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg.html)
That's one I have not tried. Looks good, though it appears it would have to be reduced for SX/MX series pinion bearings.
This one fits SX pinion bearings. They can be custom fit with a file.
"They can be custom fit with a file."
What can't? :)
I will have to experiment with those.
Removing the pinion bearing from the smaller (SX, JX, LX and HX) Avets can be a real chore. I bought a bearing puller and it **sometimes** works. But not always. The hot/cold method sometimes works as well. In the worse case scenario, I remove the lever and the piece it fits on and drill a hole. This works and doesn't do as much harm as you'd think: Pack the hole with heavy grease and it's sealed off with the new bearing on one side and the lever on the other.
Thanks for the tips guys. Yeah all of these have been either SX or MX reels. It's been driving me nuts, lol. On some of the other reels I've dealt with, I was able to get to it from the other side and knock it out.
I like that home made bearing puller idea. So just a hand file? I'm going to try it.
Quote from: akfish on January 27, 2016, 01:02:47 AM
Removing the pinion bearing from the smaller (SX, JX, LX and HX) Avets can be a real chore. I bought a bearing puller and it **sometimes** works. But not always. The hot/cold method sometimes works as well. In the worse case scenario, I remove the lever and the piece it fits on and drill a hole. This works and doesn't do as much harm as you'd think: Pack the hole with heavy grease and it's sealed off with the new bearing on one side and the lever on the other.
Bill, is your puller equipped with a sliding hammer?
Ive tried the puller with the sliding weight, just will not get a bite.
After Lee showed me the same photo it was much easier to pry a bit and then use a slimmer tool to get underneath. I should sell off this puller.
Yes my puller has the sliding hammer. What has happened is that the lip on the brass piece has deformed so that it doesn't quite work. I got my puller from Reel Speed.
Quote from: FatTuna on January 27, 2016, 01:08:41 AMSo just a hand file? I'm going to try it.
I use a belt sander but have made them with files. Smash the head to close to finished shape eith a hammer then file.
I use something similar to Lee's miniature crowbar except I made mine out of piece from a stainless steel welding rod. I have made the lip a little longer and I thread the crowbar though the spool shaft hole in the side plate, wedge the tip of the miniature crowbar under the lip of the bearing and flip the sideplate and place it on my workbench. The I give the crow bar a little whack from my hammer. I move the crowbar around while pushing the lip further and further under the bearing. I have yet been unsuccessful. Also, TSI 321 on the bearing's edges where it comes in contact with the sideplate, let sit for a few minutes, helps a lot.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 27, 2016, 04:00:36 PM
I use something similar to Lee's miniature crowbar except I made mine out of piece from a stainless steel welding rod. I have made the lip a little longer and I thread the crowbar though the spool shaft hole in the side plate, wedge the tip of the miniature crowbar under the lip of the bearing and flip the sideplate and place it on my workbench. The I give the crow bar a little whack from my hammer. I move the crowbar around while pushing the lip further and further under the bearing. I have yet been unsuccessful. Also, TSI 321 on the bearing's edges where it comes in contact with the sideplate, let sit for a few minutes, helps a lot.
Bryan you should have these made!
They take me less than 2 minutes to whip out.
Quote from: handi2 on January 27, 2016, 04:54:22 PM
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 27, 2016, 04:00:36 PM
I use something similar to Lee's miniature crowbar except I made mine out of piece from a stainless steel welding rod. I have made the lip a little longer and I thread the crowbar though the spool shaft hole in the side plate, wedge the tip of the miniature crowbar under the lip of the bearing and flip the sideplate and place it on my workbench. The I give the crow bar a little whack from my hammer. I move the crowbar around while pushing the lip further and further under the bearing. I have yet been unsuccessful. Also, TSI 321 on the bearing's edges where it comes in contact with the sideplate, let sit for a few minutes, helps a lot.
Bryan you should have these made!
I'll post a picture when I get home. I have 2 sizes based on 2 different welding rods that Alan gave me.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 27, 2016, 04:00:36 PM
I use something similar to Lee's miniature crowbar except I made mine out of piece from a stainless steel welding rod. I have made the lip a little longer and I thread the crowbar though the spool shaft hole in the side plate, wedge the tip of the miniature crowbar under the lip of the bearing and flip the sideplate and place it on my workbench. The I give the crow bar a little whack from my hammer. I move the crowbar around while pushing the lip further and further under the bearing. I have yet been unsuccessful. Also, TSI 321 on the bearing's edges where it comes in contact with the sideplate, let sit for a few minutes, helps a lot.
Thanks Brian. I can visualize the procedure. I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the device if aren't too busy.
Thanks Brian. I can visualize the procedure. I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the device if aren't too busy.
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X2.... 1/8",3/16"?
steve
This sound a little crazy, but I was able to be move a stuck bearing using a cork screw. I basically put the tip of the cork screw between then bearing and the head plate and rotated the tip around the bearing. This basically wedged the bearing out.
Good luck,
Ray
My method of attack would be to heat the bearing and surrounding area first, a few times just kinda smoking hot. let it cool and apply of course some penetrating oil of your choice after the cooling cycle. This must be done a couple of times. the heat is helpfull in breaking the corrosion,crud,salt, or whatever is in between the two dissimilar materials. then use your puller method as others have described. OR
I have drilled a small hole in the outside of the sideplate directly over the race if possible, start with a small hole and enlarge it to the punch diameter, then punch it, if its really, really stuck. But thats a last ditch effort. later the hole can be plugged with a sst, screw w. heavy grease and its ready for next time.
The thicker puller/pusher is 3.18 mm diameter and the thinner is 2.38 mm diameter.
The finger loop is so I can pull on the bearing and there is enough area for me to tap it with a little hammer is needed to puch a bearing out.
The loop is braised so it will not get caught on anything.
Awesome. Thank you.