Got a 209 given to me in a plastic bag from a failed wanna be do it yourselfer . Lovely mess. It's been in pieces in the bag for years. Grease has varnished and I'm missing the ARdog spring. Where I need assistance is the clicker for this reel is all but worn off and I have no idea on how to get it apart to replace it. Don't see many of these in my part of the country.
Any help would be appreciated.
Larry
You have to grind off where it is peened over to separate it from the click button. You have to replace both the button & tongue & peen the new one in place. Rudy
Some come with a "C" clip.
Hi Larry --
Rudy is exactly right. Got to grind it off, or drill it out. Then install the new button and click tongue -- and peen it over
The only other thing you could do is install a replaceable clicker button with a groove for a "C" clip.
Scott's and others have these kits.
Good luck -- and let us know how you do.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/3BEC45D3-0911-4E32-ACC8-763AFD470868_zpscwidsmoe.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/3BEC45D3-0911-4E32-ACC8-763AFD470868_zpscwidsmoe.jpg.html)
What made Penn think that a rivet is a good way to attached a clicker that is eventually going to wear out. If you drill it out then start with a small 1/16" bit to get it centered and use a sharp bit to prevent overheating. Also be careful of overheating if you grind it down. I once cracked a side plate while trying to peen down a new Penn clicker because it was not properly supported below.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on March 13, 2016, 10:43:35 AM
What made Penn think that a rivet is a good way to attached a clicker that is eventually going to wear out. If you drill it out then start with a small 1/16" bit to get it centered and use a sharp bit to prevent overheating. Also be careful of overheating if you grind it down. I once cracked a side plate while trying to peen down a new Penn clicker because it was not properly supported below.
-steve
Yup!
I've also wondered why they would do that to a part that would eventually wear out. :-\
Maybe they had too many left side plates that needed to be moved. ;D
Sal
I would personally replace it with the after market part, because in the future if it needs changing it is simple. And if you drill a small pilot hole and go behind it with a counter bore bit it be easier to remove and it creates less heat.
Joe
Not all Penn clicker plates can be updated with a "c" clip type button.
Quote from: RowdyW on March 13, 2016, 02:49:43 PM
Not all Penn clicker plates can be updated with a "c" clip type button.
In most cases you could, but you would need to do a little fine tuning. If it is a little tall, you could add a delrin spacer on the outer side plate. If it is a little short, you could grind the back side of the tongue so the c-clip could be set in.
I don't see why it is such a big deal for Penn to come out with a few sizes with the c-clip for all plates.
We got guys here that could easily make us some if they wanted to.
Quote from: oc1 on March 13, 2016, 10:43:35 AM
What made Penn think that a rivet is a good way to attached a clicker that is eventually going to wear out.
At the time manufacturing methods were not as advanced as they are now and cutting a grove in the clicker button was cost prohibitive.
Well, I grumbled a lot on this reel. Guess I'll be grumbling some more :D
It was mentioned Scotts has the kit. Where are they located.
Thanks everyone. Appreciated
Here,
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Home.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Home.aspx) Parts # 35, 36 and 69.
209 schematic,
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf)
Order here,
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn209M.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn209M.aspx)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Quote from: Keta on March 13, 2016, 03:55:34 PM
Here,
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Home.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Home.aspx) Parts # 35, 36 and 69.
209 schematic,
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf)
Order here,
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn209M.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn209M.aspx)
Thanks for that. Most appreciated.
Looking at the tutorials and pictures around. This reel has a stainless steel main gear and a steel spool. Many pictures I've seen have the composite spool. Does this make it an old reel? Just curious.
Update. The clicker still worked so the owner said to leave it be which was fine by me. I told him to stop letting line out with it on and to shut it off when fighting a fish and he should get a fair amount of use out of it before it fails completely.
thanks everyone for the tips and insight.