Is there any way to realistically remove the screw stuck inside the base? The heads are broken off the screws.
Post a picture.
P20W or stock?
Quote from: steelhead_killer on April 23, 2016, 03:22:34 AM
P20W or stock?
I'm not sure what P20W is , but it's a stock aluminum reel seat base.
Quote from: Bill Carson on April 23, 2016, 03:13:31 AM
Is there any way to realistically remove the screw stuck inside the base? The heads are broken off the screws.
Bill, I am assuming that you are talking about a stock Newell aluminum base. If so, I have a brand new Tiburon 344 frame and rod clamp kit and if you can't get the broken screws out of your base without destroying the threads, I would be happy to take your 344 base and cross bars in partial trade. Please send me a PM if that might work for you.
Thanks,
Randy
An expensive option is to find someone with an EDM to make a tip to burn out the screw. Don't know if they can do it with that crappy aluminum base.
It will be hard to remove without using a mill and center drill, and then it is not a sure thing. This is a good reason to put a bit of grease on all screws.
I have been about 25% successful using an easy out. I don't have a drill press or I think I would have been more successful.
Quote from: bigggfish on April 23, 2016, 04:47:24 AM
I have been about 25% successful using an easy out. I don't have a drill press or I think I would have been more successful.
What brand of easy out do you use? The ones I have are garbage. I've never successfully removed a stuck screw with one. It might just be me. I want to try and different brand before giving up hope.
I also want to try the trick that Adam recommend on here. I started a thread a while back on stuck screws. I will post a link to it if I can find it. It had some good info about broken screw removal.
Nothing more annoying than a stuck screw. I have two of them that I'm dealing with right now......
Mine are Hanson (got em on Amazon). Came in a 10 piece set. The key is getting the easy out centered. Without a drill press it is hard. Like I said, I have only been about 25% successful. (I've tried it four times on parts reels I bought off crags list).
Paul Berinson has a new 344 base and clamp for sale on his website. It is graphite, but I have swapped them before when I couldn't find an aluminum one and it worked fine. Here is the link.....http://berinsontackle.com/products-page/newell/newell-graphite-rb-yf-reel-base-for-penn-reels-and-newell-344-reels/
I just talked to him tonight. He is mending from surgery but he is a great help.
Good luck.
Best thing is to just buy a Tiburon frame from Randy and you will be good to go for the better.
This is possible with an easy-out BUT...it's very difficult. I recommend replacing it with a Tib frame and call it a day. If you want to experiment or practice on this frame; you will want to soak it real good with some penetrating oil before starting. Be sure to use high quality drill bits and make sure to keep the drill centered and parallel to the bore. Use cutting oil or tapping fluid so that your drill will cut clean. It's very easy to break these small bits. Drills will always migrate to the path of least resistance so if you get too close to the threads your bit will flex and steer into the softer frame material. Once you get it drilled be extra careful with the easy-out. Sometimes heat will help especially if you can get a temperature differential. You can heat the base in the oven or with a heat gun and use an easy-out that has been kept in the freezer. Sometime this will break the bond. Remember that the screw was already stuck before it broke. If successful in removing the broken screws you should chase the threads with a tap and be sure to flush any crud out of the holes. I know this method works as I have done this on Newell bases success. I never really trusted the threads though and would not tighten the screws as tightly as I normally would as you will lose some material do to the corrosion that was holding the screws. If you choose to do this be patient and go slow with a positive attitude. If nothing else you will learn a thing or two.
Good luck
-Mike
I've been down that road, and with these small, 5-40 ss screws I've had left hand, centering bits snap right off, and just trying to keep and bit centered on such a hard surface is very difficult.
If you have enough material around the screw use a 3/16" high carbon bit to drill out all the broken screw then press fit a slug in the hole, drill and tap for 5-40.
Better yet just replace the base with an original, or go with the Tib kit.
So it seems the consensus is that you have about as much of a chance of getting those screws out as you would have of Professor Dumbledore doing it with a charm.... 'rotation reversus', and poof, it's out... :) (Good books)
Sid
I have has better luck using a small pilot hole, followed by a reverse thread tap then the easy out. Soak it, then use a centering punch, followed by drilling a small hole, then apply heat directly to the screw with a soldering iron, then use the reverse thread tap. It will gain good purchse, and may loosen the screw. Sometimes it will break the screw apart, and often the small tap will break. In either case the pieces can often be broken up with a small punch and removed.
A helicoil insert is a slow and option, but given the cost of the part, and small screw you may just want to consider a replacement part.