I was searching on Ebay for a set of left/right side plates for a 113h reel I need to fix for a friend and found this complete working reel for really cheap with a tiburon frame and nice rod clamp, no wonder why nobody shot for it to high, long story short I ended up getting it for $55.00 shipped.
as you can see the frame has some ugly corroded zones, one of the parts look really deep and almost on the same zone the corrosion seems to be inside the aluminium "meat", the rest of the parts on the frame has also some bad corrosion but a lot smaller and the rest is some light white superficial corrosion.
I ended up buying it to check it out in person and see if can be repaired, if dont, I can keep the rest of the parts, just a bit of grease, vinegar and TLC and they will be 100% good and usuable and worth 3x more than what I paid for the whole reel.
but now the thing here is if you have any idea how to make it look good and usuable again but without spending the same money than getting it new.
The reel as is, is usable 100%, spins free on freespool, drags are HT-100 still in good shape and all the internal metals are working good.
ok, check the pics and tell me what would you guys do to make it pretty again, I was thinking in Bondo as first option, but you might have better ideas.
This is the worst zone of the frame, corrosion invaded already the meat of the aluminuim and completely have eaten some parts, the good news here is the corrosion on the spool is 100% superficial, just the normal white build up which was easily cleaned and left no damage on the spool.
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070500%20SS_zps8d6tqkdy.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070500%20SS_zps8d6tqkdy.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070501%20SS_zpskf1ipxqh.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070501%20SS_zpskf1ipxqh.jpg.html)
the lower part of the frame is not that bad, and at the left side just small corroded portion, reel seat and rod clams are 100% free of corrosion
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070502%20SS_zpshoyklfgi.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070502%20SS_zpshoyklfgi.jpg.html)
some superficial corrosion on the top of the frame which barely have eaten the paint and some white superficial corrosion inside the frame at the bottom
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070506%20SS_zps20fym3vm.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070506%20SS_zps20fym3vm.jpg.html)
the zones om the frame that are free of corrosion looks really in good shape
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070503%20SS_zpsym6taoee.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070503%20SS_zpsym6taoee.jpg.html)
corrosion on the reel seat was minimal, almost nothing, I can call this a good surprise, as you can see the frame code is a P40W
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070509%20SS_zpsyrmkmdyw.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070509%20SS_zpsyrmkmdyw.jpg.html)
zero corrosion on the frame and screws of the reel seat and rod clamp, good.
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070515%20SS_zpsw5lywcyj.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070515%20SS_zpsw5lywcyj.jpg.html)
well thats how the tiburon frame arrived.
while Im searching for a good option to put it on good shape, I greased the reel all over LOL, under the reel seat, on the rod clam screws, where the big cracks are, on the spool , etc.
the frame and spool reel looks a lot better, the spool looks and feels like new, all the parts are ready to be used but the frame needs help.
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070516%20SS_zpsyn1ibir3.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070516%20SS_zpsyn1ibir3.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070518%20%20SS_zps83xjbzir.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070518%20%20SS_zps83xjbzir.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070521%20SS_zpsx1b0qu8a.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070521%20SS_zpsx1b0qu8a.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070524%20SS_zps8iaejqrs.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/1%20Reel%20repair/P1070524%20SS_zps8iaejqrs.jpg.html)
so, what do you guys think?
trash can material or I can keel my high hopes to be still repairable?
Yup!! Bad corrosion :o I would use J-B weld for that, sand it, prime it, paint it with acrylic enamel
Nice project 8) don't trow it away
Marc..
I would get the corrosion stopped, then a little dremel sanding and some red finger nail polish.
You've got a great loaner/back up reel!
I would get somebody to bead blast it first to get that deep corrosion out & to get a good grip for the filler & paint. Certainly can be made to look & work as good as new. It's mostly your time & labor of love.
what do you think on the next pic? you can see the corrosion almost deformed a small part on the left part of the frame
do you think it would be a good idea to get a sharp point tool and carving as much corrosion is already inside to take it out or better yet just cover all that zone with JB weld making a top layer over that, sand it and dont mess with that part too much? (I dont know If I was clear).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/3592_19_05_16_5_59_10_14335495.jpeg)
That baby will need hours of love. To look good/new again will take a honeymoon long weekend. lol
12 year old rule holds up.
Mark
Quote from: anglingarchitect on May 20, 2016, 01:03:55 AM
That baby will need hours of love.
Mark
I dont care about the time if I can make it myself, I enjoy 3x more working on some long reel project at nights Vs watching TV until got sleep on the couch
I just need know how to do it ;)
I have a really nice Black one in great shape I will sell and safe you a lot of headache :o 8)
I need to get rid of 3 nice 113h's
One is a half-frame Penn in really really nice shape
One is a full fRame Tiburon Black in really nice shape.
Another with Newell Kit base, bars and spool.
My goal is to sell the Penn's and a Diawa 600H in GREAT shape as well. With aq 7+1 drags and in really nice shape.
I'm going with the beefed up Diawa 400H as my 60+ reel I pull Bryan 7+1 stacks and a ton of drag
I'd like to save some Money for a Talica 25 or Avet HX Raptor.
My point is.. if you are doing it for fun.. go for it. If you want a really nice FRAME.. pm and we can chat.
Quote from: steelfish on May 20, 2016, 01:11:55 AM
Quote from: anglingarchitect on May 20, 2016, 01:03:55 AM
That baby will need hours of love.
Mark
I dont care about the time if I can make it myself, I enjoy 3x more working on some long reel project at nights Vs watching TV until got sleep on the couch
I just need know how to do it ;)
That's the spirit 8)
Wash the frame with distilled water, leave it to dry, after a couple days it will form a protective aluminum oxide layer, sand the frame(smooth part) with 220 grit, take off all loose pieces . Once clean, used J-B weld which is an epoxy, it will seal and significantly lower the corrosion rate, probably 3 coats shaping in between coats
J-b weld is cheap, you will learn some cool stuff doing this
Marc..
you got a PM, but even with another new 113h reels I actually would like to try my restoring skills (which are none) over this uggly reel frame.
I already have a half frame 113h USA made in really good shape, that reel is the one that will have Cortez Conversion side plates for now on, if I ended up gettin this tiburon frame in good shape in a near future I might change the Tom's side plates to this one and install the current goodies that I already have on it, which are Keta gear Hex adapter, 4:1 newell gears, SS Duble dogs (I will need to use one dog on Tom's side plate, tho) and.. and..hmm well thats it for now ;D..
Quote from: Marcq on May 20, 2016, 01:54:33 AM
That's the spirit 8)
Wash the frame with distilled water, leave it to dry, after a couple days it will form a protective aluminum oxide layer, sand the frame(smooth part) with 220 grit, take off all loose pieces . Once clean, used J-B weld which is an epoxy, it will seal and significantly lower the corrosion rate, probably 3 coats shaping in between coats
J-b weld is cheap, you will learn some cool stuff doing this
Marc..
some questions
I dont understand about the protective oxide layer, would that layer form on the naked aluminuim cracks and I dont have to sanding it out (leave it there for protection) or is better to wait for that oxide layer to start sanding? ???
I got some kind of lost when you tallk about 3 coats shaping in between coats , you are refering to the JB weld ob or 3 coats of paint ?
Three thin coats of JB is better then one wad.
Yep JB weld is good,
I have been using a super high temp steel epoxy, does wonders but very hard to machine and sand.
I say go for it, your certainly not going to hurt it are you.
Quote from: RowdyW on May 20, 2016, 02:37:45 AM
Three thin coats of JB is better then one wad.
Go it, thanks compadre
I would rub it down with some oil and go fishing.
-steve
I would bead blast it, patch the pits and have it powder coated but the water cutter's primary business is powder coating and he trades rod and reel work for powder coating. His employee dropped a hard to find spool for my "Grouper Special" and bent it though.
Power coating is a nice option, too bad its really hard to find a good shop for powercoating That dont charge AM arm for small Jobs.
But Im really considering it, but first I have to sand it and patch it, Then find a place for powercoating it red candy Apple.
If you plan to powder coat it, there are some issues to consider with the filler:
Conductivity - when the powder is applied, it is drawn to the part by electrostatic charge. One lead goes on the spray gun, the other on the part. So a layer of nonconductive epoxy may cause a bare spot or uneven finish.
Temp - powder coating requires 350-400F for 10-20 minutes (varies by supplier/color) - so the filler has to be able to handle this temp without degrading or offgassing, releasing trapped bubbles of air, etc.
I haven't tried powder coating over filler, so I cannot offer any firsthand experience, but from what I have read certain versions of JBweld can work (probably something high temp with metal filler), and there are some specialized fillers - brands mentioned are metal2metal and lab-metal.
There are also some issues around powder coating over anodized, it can be done, but there can be uneven results. So there is a lot of prep involved. Also make sure that all threaded holes are plugged before coating.
Retapping paint filled 5-40 holes is a pain. You will probably need a two coat finish to get even color.
Unless this exercise is for the learning/challenge, you may want to go with JBweld and some touch-up paint, or a new frame.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on May 20, 2016, 05:16:44 PM
Unless this exercise is for the learning/challenge, you may want to go with JBweld and some touch-up paint, or a new frame.
nop, this is not for the fun or learning process but just to make it look bit better, since this reel is usable as is with just some red nail polish touch ups, I just want to save it from the cancer corrosion proccess, then leave it on the shelf or use it as loaner reel, I never use reels this big, for my waters my big reels are the Baja Special and the fathom 40LD2 and are more than enough.
well thanks for your comments, seems that it will be a personal project, so, clean it with destilled water, I will also use the old method of Bakind soda and lemon juice to get all the corrosion out from the small cracks, then JB weld on 3-4 thin layers, sand it and find a matching red candy apple enamel spray paint and few coats of clear coat over the paint, in that case if get scratch it the paint below will be still red ;) , Im confident on using spray paint so, not too worry on that part.
have few reel services on the pending list to finish, it will take few weeks to have this frame done.
thanks a lot for your input guys.
A good cleaning and oiling will stop the corrosion. Everything after that is cosmetic. The more you do the more it is going to look like someone tried to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. That never works. Its an honest reel with honest wear and a beautiful patina. Embrace it and be proud of the way it looks.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on May 20, 2016, 06:42:50 PM
A good cleaning and oiling will stop the corrosion. Everything after that is cosmetic. The more you do the more it is going to look like someone tried to make a silk purse out of a sows ear. That never works. Its an honest reel with honest wear and a beautiful patina. Embrace it and be proud of the way it looks.
-steve
you know, I made this thread because at the beginning I was thinking the same whe I saw it and bought it (I actually havent made my mind yet on what to do LOL, I will wait until taking the reel into the working table in few weeks).
buy my initial plan was to use the less refill materail for the really uggly spots, get a scratch touch up car paint mini can in red and cover the covered uggly spots, leave the rest of the reel as is and called a day.
the parts that dont have a sign of corrosion looks really nice and the paint look shiny with a deep color, ready to take any boat scratches
clean out the corrosion. JB weld as noted. I will send the number of the automotive paint pen I use for Penn anniversary spools, it matches very nicely. this wont take you but a couple hours most of which will be in fairing off the JB once it sets.
Quote from: thorhammer on May 20, 2016, 08:18:06 PM
clean out the corrosion. JB weld as noted. I will send the number of the automotive paint pen I use for Penn anniversary spools, it matches very nicely. this wont take you but a couple hours most of which will be in fairing off the JB once it sets.
Cool, compa thats nice from tour part
hopefully I can find the color code locally
Share the darn paint pen #. I have anniversary spools! ;D
Here you go
Quote from: thorhammer on May 23, 2016, 01:26:08 PM
Here you go
thanks John for the color number for my project.
with this touch-up paint, this seems the easier and better route, fill the damaged area, sand it as required and touch up paint only where needed leaving the normal wear and tear marks as is.
those spools looks really nicely painted, It didnt show the brush marks
PM your address I'll send you a pen to try. Not perfect for a shelf queen but ok if you are actually fishing it. I think I did two or three applications to cover bare aluminum.
John
You got PM John.
Will send Tuesday when I get home.
My thanks too John.
well, it seems that a little bit of TLC, paint, JB-weld and help from AT guys did the trick, this frame is ready to get a big one.
thanks a lot guys for your tips and special thanks to John for the red paint-pen, really similar color to the one on the tiburon Frame.
sorry for the tons of pics but I really liked the finished product after the bodyshop job on the frame.
frame with JB-weld on the uggly corroded parts already sanded
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5945%20sss%20ok_zpsftbmpcgy.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5945%20sss%20ok_zpsftbmpcgy.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5933%20ss_zpsnhezndwe.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5933%20ss_zpsnhezndwe.jpg.html)
bottom only needed some sanding and 2-3 layers of paint
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5951%20ss_zpstamvyypn.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5951%20ss_zpstamvyypn.jpg.html)
few overall sights of the frame
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5966%20ss_zpsec1emc54.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5966%20ss_zpsec1emc54.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5987%20ss_zpsyljs0kco.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5987%20ss_zpsyljs0kco.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5971%20ss_zpsrczr75p7.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG5971%20ss_zpsrczr75p7.jpg.html)
and last, some comparative pictures
The ugliest corroded part, it doesnt look factory restored but looks 3x better than how it was before, isnt it?
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070500%20sst%20compara_zpsqg5xpa9q.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070500%20sst%20compara_zpsqg5xpa9q.jpg.html)
a dab of JB-weld on some parts and 2-3 layer of just paint on others made the change
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070507%20sssok%20compara_zpswivhs5xz.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070507%20sssok%20compara_zpswivhs5xz.jpg.html)
same here
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070506%20SS%20compara_zpsyhwy9bhb.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/P1070506%20SS%20compara_zpsyhwy9bhb.jpg.html)
this is how it looks (if you check it by the ugliest part) all finished and ready to fish (well, except by the line)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG6023%20ss_zpsm1zvtqbb.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/113h%20cortez%20special%20Alex/IMAG6023%20ss_zpsm1zvtqbb.jpg.html)
Great work there!
That turned out really nice.
Nice Job Alex! ;)
Hey Alex, great job! I was wondering if you had gotten to it yet. Shelf queen, maybe not but it looks ready get blood onnit which is why it really exosts. NIce work and tight lines!
John
Quote from: thorhammer on June 28, 2016, 02:30:46 AM
..Shelf queen, maybe not ..
John
It might be a shelf queen, not because of the beauty on it but because I have the Baja Special and Fathom 40 LD2 and these 3 reels compite on the same line rating.
I Will save this reel for the next time fishing on the golden reef, which is at 350-450ft deep.
It has newell gears 4:1 and keta octagon adapter
Have any of you had issues using JB weld on aluminum? I've been advised against it due to the steel in JB weld and an alternative for use on aluminum is called water weld I think.
Nothing wrong with that repair job at all, great match on the paint. I have to go back through here and get that paint code.
Okay I went back through the thread, I enlarged the picture of the Pint Pen but all my eyes can make out is Ford.
Can you tell me the paint code on that thing.
thanks
David,
code is Ford Red fire pearl AFM 0379
I think I got it at Autozone.
Quote from: rippin_lips on July 06, 2016, 07:56:02 PM
Have any of you had issues using JB weld on aluminum? I've been advised against it due to the steel in JB weld and an alternative for use on aluminum is called water weld I think.
I just picked up some JB Weld to repair an aluminum spool for Rudy. I used the regular stuff, but ran across water weld. It's like a putty that you apply and shape, then immerse in water and it hardens. When my JB Weld on Rudy's spool fails I'll use water weld next. I just didn't like the sounds of how it was used as compared to a two-part epoxy type of application. And the JB Weld dried to almost the exact color of the anodizing on the aluminum making the repairs hard to detect.
Sid
The advantage of water weld is that it hardens under water. But, it might not be the best for getting a good bond.
There are all sorts of thickeners for epoxy resin. You can add something like Cab-O-Sil to get any consistency you want (from bisque to bubblegum). You could add some glass or carbon fiber to get more strength. Some additives make the hardened surface easier to sand. You could mix in aluminum powder or shavings if you wanted but I'm not sure what the advantage would be. You can use several different additives without cross-reaction.
-steve