I'm fairly new to the Do-It-Yourself Reel Cleaning and maintenance program, Money is a little tight now a days and I just can't send them off to Alan and have no worries, Ive had scale back on the cash flow and have made attempts to do-it-myself. I have had great success with my Shimano and Abu reels and have had a blast tearing them a-part and installing all new Carbonex Drag washers. I have not ran into anything with heavy corrosion or old grease until tonight when I took a-part an Abu that my Dad has used for many years. So my question is just little reel 101? What is the most effective product to get mild corrosion off a reel and it's parts? What is your opinion on what product works best and cheapest on grease removal. I have bought several new reels and I'm currently getting ready to break them a-part and upgrade the drag washers, do you clean the factory grease off like you would a reel that has 20 year old grease in it?
I'm just looking for a little 101 on cleaning side of the business, I want to also Thank Alan for the many reels he had maintained for me and also this great website to share his knowledge and the knowledge of many of it's members. Thank you all very much for sharing and making this my go too website for Reel repair and maintenance.
Derek
an old toothbrush and some light oil might be the best place to start. that's what i usually use.
Thanks Alan, That is pretty much what i'am doing now and it works great, Other than the fact the Old Toothbrush I grabbed was my wifes new one she just got from the dentist...OOps. Ohh well the price you pay when you marry a fisherman.
Derek
Vinegar gets rid of corrosion very well. CLR, a household cleaner , does too but is toxic. I use Salt-X in the shop.
I found the TSI 301 is most excellent for cleaning a de-greasing etc etc!!!!
Plus it is a very good lubricant, (Thanks Alan)....
Even WD 40 is very good...
I work inside the house so Low odor, non flammable and non toxic things are a big plus for me...
Be careful & test surfaces with CLR (even Vinegar) it will take off/ruin a lot of finishes !!!!
Very acidic !!!
Thank for all the reply's, You guys are great. I really do appreciate taking the time to share your knowledge.
Derek
I have been stalking the forums for a while picking up some excellent advice. Thank-you all for your detailed tutorials.
I recently purchased off Ebay, a well used Penn 180 that looked like the previous owner snagged it off the bottom of the ocean while on a deep sea excursion. Lots of green corrosion on the chromed brass and the eccentric lever won't switch from "on" to "off," stopping at about the halfway mark. Moving the spool creates a grind like there is lots of salt and sand inside. So I sprayed the whole piece heavily with Corrosion X and bagged it yesterday to soak. Using an old toothbrush removed a fair amount of the corrosion, but there is still much left to do.
My question is will the Corrosion X soaking past the 24 hour mark continue to benefit the process or has it run its course? Do I need to move on to metal brushes and other chemicals like vinegar, Simple Green or CLR? I clearly would prefer to keep using the soft toothbrush and find another chemical to remedy the saltwater "verdi gris," but that may just be wishful thinking.
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Cheers,
Russ
Russ
That reel has to be taken apart. Every piece has to be cleaned, oiled or Greased. Sounds like a nice little project. Enjoy yourself it's fun.
Mike
Sorry, I should have been clearer. I do plan to take it all apart, grease, oil and replace the drag washers. But I am talking about cleaning the frame posts, stand and metal side plates right now. I want to get rid of the green corrosion without taking off too much of the plating. I picked at some of the corrosion with a dental pick, but its taking off the chrome plating. Is there a "miracle" chemical I am not considering, or should I just pick and wire brush the corrosion away on the metal pieces, because Corrosion X and toothbrush has stopped working.
Russ
I know white vinegar helps on that green on the Chrome. The others on the site all have their ways with what you are doing. I try to clean thing but end up buying new posts, rings & such. For the posts I would contact fishingreels79 on EBay. His Posts are SS.
Mike
If you just want to bring it back up to fishable operation -- here is what I would do:
Completely disassemble, put all chromed parts into a vat of vinegar for at least 24 hours to cut the green.
All of the internals such as the eccentric, jack, yoke, bridge, main & pinion gear, etc. -- drop in a covered screw tight glass jar of mineral spirits for 24 hours to cut and soften the grease caked on. Shake well before removing from the MS -- finish clean up with toothbrush -- rinse & inspect.
Sideplates and any Bakelite handle knobs, etc. -- just clean by hand with simple green, or similar.
You will need new cf drag washers greased with Cal's, maybe new SS drag discs, maybe the brass would be OK -- inspect for any burrs or score marks.
New under gear washer, delrin is nice, but any hard fiber type would work in this case.
Sounds likely there is an eccentric spring that has become distorted or broken -- likely needs replacement.
Reassemble, greasing all internals (gears, yoke, jack eccentric, etc.) with a grease like Yamaha Marine -- oiling all moving parts such as spool ends, handle knobs, etc. -- with a synthetic oil.
When done, you will likely have a good, fishable reel -- with a minimum of expense.
The sideplates will be pitted and possibly slightly faded -- rings, posts, stand, handle, Eccentric lever, and side bearing adjusters are likely to be pitted. But this reel will work well for many years to come.
Obviously there is at least a couple of screws needed, and maybe a spring, set of drags, under gear washer.
If that handle is an indicator, this is a nice old 180 likely from around the late 40s to 1950.
If you don't have the spare parts, either myself or someone else on the Board could help.
Of course, the sky is the limit on restoring this nice old reel -- but once started down a road of replacing everything pitted, it is tough to stop.
Let us know if we can help, and post some pics when you are completed with this neat project.
Best,
Fred
You won't believe how well just Kerosene mixed with Gunk Heavy Duty cleaner works. I mix it 4 to 1 Kerosene to Gunk. It and a soft brass brush will immediately remove all the green, grease, and old corrosion off any metal and chromed part. This is mixed in a 5 gallon parts cleaner. I just use a container in the parts cleaner to soak the parts if needed. Everything goes in and comes out clean. Stuck handle grips will spin.
No overnight concoctions..!
Quote from: bluefish69 on September 11, 2014, 03:32:29 PM
For the posts I would contact fishingreels79 on eBay. His Posts are SS.
Mike, I'd be interested in SS posts as well, but I tried a seller search for "fishingreels79" on eBay and it said there ain't no such person. :-\
~
A~
This is the Guy Aiala.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PENN-REEL-PART-100-146-4-POSTS-STAINLESS-STEEL-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-/121432455433?pt=US_Taxidermy&hash=item1c45f03909
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 11, 2014, 07:44:28 PM
This is the guy, Aiala.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PENN-REEL-PART-100-146-4-POSTS-STAINLESS-STEEL-LIFETIME-WARRANTY-/121432455433?pt=US_Taxidermy&hash=item1c45f03909
Thanks, Mr. Shark! (Funny how one little additional 's' can gum up the search works.) Looks like he offers posts for many different reels, too... excellent. 8)
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A~
"D" won the race this time. I just noticed what I did by adding the "s". I ordered a set of bars from him today for a 1/0 - 501. I have a set on my 2/0 & they look very nice.
Mike
I have several sets for my 10 and 12/0's. They are cheaper than buying the stock ones new.
Good explanation, Fred. Let me just add one thing... you'll want to neutralize the white vinegar with water before you put the parts back together.
Also, I'm a fan of the ss posts, but I wouldn't spend that dough on this reel. A little pitting just adds to the character. Hey, you can always tell your kids that the reel was your grand pappy's when you're ready to pass it down to them. ;)
Have fun,
Dom
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Thank you all for the help. I have two jars now full of parts, bars and internals in low odor mineral spirits and the chromed pieces in white vinegar.
The inside was not as bad as expected, although the grinding was in part due to the runaway dog spring just going around where it pleased.
When I was removing the plate and stand screws, I surmised that at one point, a previous owner misplaced/lost two of the correct screws and used screws from the other pieces to cobble together a functional reel.
In line with broadway's comment, the pieces in vinegar will come out soon and be rinsed off as some of the pitted posts where the chrome has been exposed are starting to oxidized into more rust. Lots of vinegar and a little time seem to be the best mix here. More time isn't necessarily better.
If possible, I may just buy posts for that side of the reel, because it's rough now with the pitting and I can foresee my line fraying or binding up if it comes in contact with the rough edges.
When I put it back together, I will post the rebuild in the tutorials section. This reel is so similar to other Penn reels, but it may help someone in the future who has similar issues to mine.
Thanks again,
Russ
Good job, Russ --
If you get stuck on some of the parts, let me know.
I should have screws, posts, and a spring -- probably a stand and rings also. And of course the drags and the under gear washer.
No charge except postage.
Biggest thing is to really clean up the internals -- and like you said, make sure there are no rough spots to catch your line.
Best,
Fred
If I could choose a theme for the outcome, it'd be "What Lies Beneath." Vinegar is incredibly effective on the salt corrosion and ate it away down to the base metal, which is good in this case. I would stress to anyone that follows that one should minimize the time the parts sit in the vinegar and then rinse them quickly! In my case, I let the plated pieces sit overnight and some rust started forming where the vinegar had reached the base metal. A little elbow grease and some Nevr-Dull brought the pieces back. If you don't watch their exposure to the white vinegar you may end up choosing the theme, "Let Sleeping Dogs Lie."
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Due to the lighting, the brass looks like rust, but except for the posts that is all the base metal. Unfortunately, the posts seem too far gone for smooth ride of the line and they were the most corroded to begin with; in principle the fishing line should not come into contact with the posts often, but in practice...well anything is possible when I am fishing.
All these parts are now sitting back in a bag with a fine layer of Corrosion X, hopefully soaking in its legendary restorative powers...
Fred, I will PM you with any parts I do need. The screws and 2 posts would be great if you have them. A stand would be nice, but I am pushing my luck there.
Good Job Russ! Love your avatar! :D Obviously you haven't seen Fred's workshop. The man has it going on! ;D
I have used the Vinegar, but prefer Simple green. Some people can't get past the smell of the green, or want to use something not as toxic. If its badly corroded, simple green does the trick. If its really gunked up, Coleman fuel works great. Something in the middle, I use brake Cleaner and then chrome polish.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_22571_zps0277cd6d.jpg)
Shark Hunter,
I'll try the Simple Green next time. I bought a lot of 4 reels and they are all in similar condition. I also picked up some other lots on shopgoodwill.com. The Penn reels still have parts available, although scarcer by the day. MysticParts had everything I needed when I took initial inventory of what I needed, although I thought I would have better luck with the corrosion and the sellers pictures conveniently cropped out the missing screws and bent stand. The stand looks like the previous owner used it to reel in a car or had a large fish nearly snatch the reel off the rod.
With all my Penn rebuilds, I always order new drag washer kits. These are good reels to start with, but I also have two Pflueger reels and an Ocean City 923 to rebuild and from my initial search online, those parts and schematics are harder to find. With the Pfluegers and Ocean City, I will really have to re-purpose and modify parts I can scavenge.
I don't understand why anyone would let reels get this bad.
Those are some pretty nice reels you have. If only there was product that could take them from battery terminal saltwater corrosion to "out of the box" chrome...
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Welcome Eccentric Russ. Does everyone in South Carolina dress that way? :D Dominick
Domnick,
Around Charleston and the gentry parts of South Carolina, yes. I happen to live in North Carolina which is regular tie country. BUT, I try not to conform to the normal corporate standards around here, so I have become known for my beard and bowties. Anyway at 6' 1" they don't make may ties that are long enough for me.
Besides, someone has to class the place up. ;D
Russ
We had a Mayor in Fresno, who always wore his trademark bow tie. A real gentleman.
That was Ted Wills around 40 years ago.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: EccentricRuss on September 13, 2014, 02:13:48 AM
Domnick,
Around Charleston and the gentry parts of South Carolina, yes. I happen to live in North Carolina which is regular tie country. BUT, I try not to conform to the normal corporate standards around here, so I have become known for my beard and bowties. Anyway at 6' 1" they don't make may ties that are long enough for me.
Besides, someone has to class the place up. ;D
Russ
Nice Comeback Russ! ;D
I like this guy already! ;)
Its a crap shoot with buying used reels. Turning them into masterpieces is what its all about!
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_23031_zps807a1097.jpg)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 13, 2014, 05:01:26 AM
Turning them into masterpieces is what its all about!
As you can see, Mr. Shark has it down pat. ;)
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A~
Russ,
I usually put my chromed parts in the vinegar for an hour or so only because I'm impatient and can't wait 24 hours... Unless it's a bearing that I can't free from the cup so I need a penetrant to do its magic.
You didn't put the side plate in the vinegar did you?
If so, you don't wanna do that... If it absorbs the vinegar you'll be checking ebay for a new side plate.
Keep up the good work and I know what ya mean about regular ties and tall people, I'm 6'5 :-\
Dom
Quote from: EccentricRuss on September 13, 2014, 02:13:48 AM
Domnick,
Around Charleston and the gentry parts of South Carolina, yes. I happen to live in North Carolina which is regular tie country. BUT, I try not to conform to the normal corporate standards around here, so I have become known for my beard and bowties. Anyway at 6' 1" they don't make may ties that are long enough for me.
Besides, someone has to class the place up. ;D
Russ
Oops my bad I said South instead of North. I am glad you were not insulted and yes you do lend some class to the site. Welcome again. BTW I use simple green. Dominick
Russ...
Don't get shy on us now... post up the "after" pics too! We all want to revel in your success!!