Does such a part exist?
Not that I am aware of :-\
Sure sounds like a good udea though.
I'm starting to design SS yokes on an add need basis. Let me see if I have one to design off of.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on October 12, 2016, 02:39:18 AM
Not that I am aware of :-\
Sure sounds like a good udea though.
Thanks John.
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 12, 2016, 03:10:13 AM
I'm starting to design SS yokes on an add need basis. Let me see if I have one to design off of.
If needed, I can send you a used (brass) 12-155
I have a brass one to design off. Thank you.
The Chinese Penn 209s come with a ss yoke.
Quote from: akfish on October 12, 2016, 01:32:56 PM
The Chinese Penn 209s come with a ss yoke.
Interesting and something new. Wonder if it's strong enough to hold up to a Pro Challenger heat-treated pinion?
Stainless against stainless would be less wear then stainless against brass. As for strength if it takes strength to pry it in & out of gear then something is wrong inside your reel. Stainless is stronger then plain brass though.
Quote from: RowdyW on October 12, 2016, 03:53:28 PM
Stainless against stainless would be less wear then stainless against brass. As for strength if it takes strength to pry it in & out of gear then something is wrong inside your reel. Stainless is stronger then plain brass though.
The reel in question is a Penn 210 and shifts like butter.
Dropping in a set of Pro Challenger Jigmaster gears would be a nice upgrade--if not for the stock brass yoke getting chewed up.
It's very strange that the factory ss gear doesn't damage the brass yoke but the PC gears would. Have you done any testing?
It really depends on the finishing of the gears. Taking that extra step to smooth out any burrs and smooth out the edges where the pinion contacts the yoke. I've only had problems on PC's very first run of gears but nothing thereafter.
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
Bryan, it looks like china is changing over to ss in place of brass for most parts in their reels for Penn. The only need for ss yokes might be for obsolete reels that don't have any interchange with reels still in production & yokes (& other parts) are no longer available. For recreational fishermen it would take more then a lifetime for most to wear out a brass yoke. Look at how many reels are reconditioned with a lot of the original parts. Replacement of most parts with ss (but not all)is partially an ego thing (for lack of a kinder word). Maybe a lot of the people redoing their reels are trying to make them last 3 lifetimes instead of 2 without parts replacement. Good Luck on that.
I'm one of the guys that recommended ss parts to Alan Chui when he first started here, mine reason wasn't related to wear, mine was related to flexing on those. Gears had to do with strength.
Sal
Quote from: RowdyW on October 13, 2016, 02:47:18 AM
It's very strange that the factory ss gear doesn't damage the brass yoke but the PC gears would. Have you done any testing?
Yes, out of curiosity I tried installing Pro-Challenger 4.8:1 Jigmaster gears in the 210.
With minimal load they run nice and smooth, but once you tighten the drag and pull out some line you can feel the pinion start to bind.
Disassembled the reel and noted the tell-tale brass shavings and semicircle gouge mark, where the pinion rides within the yoke.
The stainless PC yoke meant to be paired with the Jigmaster gears is also noticeably thicker than the stock 12-155.
I don't know if that is a contributing factor, but the pinion appears to have less axial play when used in conjunction w/the PC stainless yoke.
I agree Sal, gears, gear sleeves, & dogs are neccesary for strength & durability. A lot of the other internal parts are bling. As for jacks & yokes brass is naturely slicker then ss. But keeping ss lubed nulifies that.
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 03:10:42 AM
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
Well, I don't necessarily need a high-speed 210; it was just tinkerer's curiosity that got me going on this.. ;)
If you do decide to make a run at cutting the yokes though, count me in as interested.
Chad
Quote from: cbar45 on October 13, 2016, 03:56:17 AM
Quote from: RowdyW on October 13, 2016, 02:47:18 AM
It's very strange that the factory ss gear doesn't damage the brass yoke but the PC gears would. Have you done any testing?
Yes, out of curiosity I tried installing Pro-Challenger 4.8:1 Jigmaster gears in the 210.
With minimal load they run nice and smooth, but once you tighten the drag and pull out some line you can feel the pinion start to bind.
Disassembled the reel and noted the tell-tale brass shavings and semicircle gouge mark, where the pinion rides within the yoke.
The stainless PC yoke meant to be paired with the Jigmaster gears is also noticeably thicker than the stock 12-155.
I don't know if that is a contributing factor, but the pinion appears to have less axial play when used in conjunction w/the PC stainless yoke.
The gouge mark is from a burr or finish in the pinion is not smooth enough. The reason for less axil play is the ss yoke is thicker. If the brass yoke were the same thickness results would be identical.
Also, tolerance is tighter on ProChallenger's parts, this requires more effort going in and out of gear. His ss parts don't flex much when paired all works as it should.
Thanks guys,
As it is now that 210 is running stock Penn 4:1 (steel) Jigmaster gears and doing fine.
I know I'm not alone when I say that 10's and 210's have untapped potential.
Magged and with the level-wind removed, the 210 casts like a bullet.
Bryan's 5-stack, Alan C's stainless sleeve, and Keta's stainless dog are the only other upgrades so far.
An aluminum frame would be nice, but in lieu of that I am working on adding a few more crossbars..:)
Quote from: cbar45 on October 13, 2016, 04:17:36 AM
Thanks guys,
An aluminum frame would be nice, but in lieu of that I am working on adding a few more crossbars..:)
I agree!
I'm also looking for an aluminum frame for my 970's, 980's & 990's. Who knows, anything is possible here :).
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 03:10:42 AM
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
What would your cost be to members?
Quote from: Alto Mare on October 13, 2016, 04:38:09 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 03:10:42 AM
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
What would your cost be to members?
$5/yoke
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 05:08:14 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on October 13, 2016, 04:38:09 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 03:10:42 AM
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
What would your cost be to members?
$5/yoke
I don't see why this wouldn't be a go.
Thanks Bryan!
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 05:08:14 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on October 13, 2016, 04:38:09 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 13, 2016, 03:10:42 AM
Should I design and cut these yokes? It costs me a minimum of $500 to do a run of yokes for each size. Therefore I'm reluctant to do so unless there is sufficient interest.
What would your cost be to members?
$5/yoke
I would need two of those if your making them, the next quest would be the SS jack plate 11-200.
Bryan,
I need a 12-155 yoke for the 970.
I am hoping Tom makes a frame for it.
Could you make a batch of stainless yokes. I am sure that we could all get them bought up fast.
Thanks
Eugene