Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Penn International Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: thorhammer on April 23, 2017, 05:26:12 PM

Title: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: thorhammer on April 23, 2017, 05:26:12 PM
The two oldies were suposdly recently serviced when I bought them and indeed have enough new braid on them to cover a third of what I paid for the reel itself. However, they are a bit stiff cranking. I 've been in my others before but I need these  next weekend so if I get into them I have to be sure I can fix what ails quickly....and the parts may not be available that quickly. Any suggestions what to look at quickly? Thrust bearing? Bellville layout?


thanks!


John
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: Bryan Young on April 23, 2017, 06:20:13 PM
My first guess would be the pinion bearing.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: UKChris on April 24, 2017, 05:06:43 PM
Me too, going on what I've learned from all the experts here.
A clean and packing of the bearing with new grease might get it going for a while in an emergency, but replacement bearings ought to be planned.

Check the other bearings too while its opened. If they are rough, again they ought to be replaced too but a clean and re-pack can work wonders at least temporarily if the bearings are not totally u/s.

Hope it goes well - got to love those old 130. Are they the standard or the H model?
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: thorhammer on April 24, 2017, 06:15:36 PM
These are first generation 30 (not 130). They are a nice size on 30-80 Tuna sticks for most things I run into. I also run 30 TW's but the 30 balances better. I'll clean out the bearings and see what if that helps.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: UKChris on April 26, 2017, 04:24:23 PM
Ah - sorry, was not looking carefully enough: 1 30 vs 130! But I think the solution would be the same - good luck.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: thorhammer on April 27, 2017, 02:21:08 AM
I Bought them "serviced"...somewhere that means "put new line on". Would not be surprised if the grease was original, based on what I saw when I cracked them. Cleaned out amap without time for a full teardown, juiced the crap out of everything with corrosion X and it freed up considerably. Bearings are smooth but slow; I expect there is gunk there that could be cleaned and be fine. Will go full monte when I return but will get it done for now.


Question: without doing $100 upgrade, WHY cant a carbontex washer be cut commensurate with original design  asbestos washer? I don't don't know why this is difficult.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: Robert Janssen on April 27, 2017, 09:35:04 AM
Quote from: thorhammer on April 27, 2017, 02:21:08 AM

...WHY cant a carbontex washer be cut commensurate with original design  asbestos washer? I don't know why this is difficult.

Of course it can. And it isn't.
I'm a little perplexed as well. The subject has been up on the board a number of times through the years.

.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: Bryan Young on April 27, 2017, 11:00:28 AM
Unfortunately there isn't a carbontex thickness that is thick enough and would require gluing multiple thicknesses to make up the thickness of the original drag washer.  Another way is to grind flat the original washer and glue carbontex on either side. In both cases, I'm not sure how they would hold up on a long run.
Title: Re: Gen 1 30's cranking resistance
Post by: thorhammer on April 27, 2017, 11:54:39 AM
Ok so this is now a reel live treasure hunt.  Stay tuned. 

Bry I figured thickness to be the issue and had same thought of making laminate. I had looked at video posted by Dave to see if I was missing anything and the gent prescribes a laundry list down to spool shaft for upgrade. I would spend money on making a half frame before that.  Let's see where this goes. I don't have a machine shop so I enjoy seeing what can be done with basic tools and skills.