Last year I almost bought my first International from Fred (it was a great deal!) but backed off because I realized it was a 2 speed I was looking for.
Yesterday, this arrived and for just a few dollars more than I've paid for a single speed Pro Gear.
Time for a tuna trip!
International 20 with Cal Sheets upgrades:
2 speed conversion
Blueprinted for 80#
Sleeved with new bearings
** upgraded aluminum seat
Any more info or recommendations anybody has on this reel is appreciated.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_16_12_17_10_50_00_228261400.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_16_12_17_10_49_59_22825744.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_16_12_17_10_49_50_22823373.jpeg)
Rod recommendations? I've got a Calstar 6455XXH A/R which should work.
My heaviest reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_16_12_17_10_49_54_228241912.jpeg)
Thanks, Steve
The gold aluminum clamps are nice it you have the stock one. Great reel, Nice score
Thanks.
Agree on the clamp.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_16_12_17_12_29_11_228271316.jpeg)
Steve I have an almost new 20. I did not know the 20 could be converted. It's so pretty I made it a shelf queen. Good luck with yours. Dominick
Quote from: Dominick on December 16, 2017, 07:33:18 PM
Steve I have an almost new 20. I did not know the 20 could be converted. It's so pretty I made it a shelf queen. Good luck with yours. Dominick
Thanks Dominick. Forgot to mention the Cal Sheets upgrades seat. Big difference for higher drag settings.
BTW holding 4 lbs is fatiguing. Stick it the rod holder. Dominick
If you indeed are looking for a new rod, most of the big game rods for our Southern California long-range fishing are now just using ring guides instead of rollers.
Steve, loving Alan's 5/0 grip and arm on my 20 and 30 Ints.
Quote from: thorhammer on December 16, 2017, 09:56:46 PM
Steve, loving Alan's 5/0 grip and arm on my 20 and 30 Ints.
Good call John... is Alan's arm as thick as the stock? Very solid.
About the same, plus Alan's are stainless and the throw is a bit longer by maybe half an inch. Really nice if you were to be in low gear grinding it out.
another peek down the rabbit hole...... nice reel! ;D
Quote from: swill88 on December 16, 2017, 06:14:43 PM
Last year I almost bought my first International from Fred (it was a great deal!)
Thanks, Steve
Kind of glad you didn't buy it Steve -- and held out for a 2-speed.
It was so nice, I decided to keep it for myself.
Talked to Cal & his son about doing a 2-speed conversion at the Fred Hall show last March.
With the Accurate narrow setup -- it should come out good.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 16, 2017, 08:51:14 PM
If you indeed are looking for a new rod, most of the big game rods for our Southern California long-range fishing are now just using ring guides instead of rollers.
What's a newer rod choice for this heavy guy at 80#?
Can I cast and live line with this heavy guy?
Steve
If you're thinking for tuna fishing off boats in San Diego Then about 6 1/2 to 7 1/2'. All heavy ring guides with a long durable fore grip for laying on the rail. I see you're in Brentwood. Go down to island tackle in Carson and check some out. Let them know what you have in mind, they're very helpful and hardcore fisherman themselves. Have all the different brands and what have you. Bob Sands in Van nuys is decent too but I drive the extra 45 minutes to carson. A lot of choices.
Quote from: Swami805 on December 17, 2017, 02:40:42 AM
If you're thinking for tuna fishing off boats in San Diego Then about 6 1/2 to 7 1/2'. All heavy ring guides with a long durable fore grip for laying on the rail. I see you're in Brentwood. Go down to island tackle in Carson and check some out. Let them know what you have in mind, they're very helpful and hardcore fisherman themselves. Have all the different brands and what have you. Bob Sands in Van nuys is decent too but I drive the extra 45 minutes to carson. A lot of choices.
Thanks Sheridan.... trouble is I'm in Brentwood in the CA Delta... and I've got a 310 phone #... so confusing.
I go to His' Tackle Box in south city. Or the Fred Hall Show in March..,.
Quote from: swill88 on December 17, 2017, 02:18:59 AM
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 16, 2017, 08:51:14 PM
If you indeed are looking for a new rod, most of the big game rods for our Southern California long-range fishing are now just using ring guides instead of rollers.
What's a newer rod choice for this heavy guy at 80#?
Can I cast and live line with this heavy guy?
Steve
Steve,
When I was talking about a new rod I meant a new rod to you, not just the newer blanks on the market. A new rod could mean a used rod, older style blanks like all glass or rods made of newer composite blanks.
Are you in a hurry to get a rod for that reel? If not I would suggest pulling on some blanks or finished rods to find out what you like at your price point. What might feel right for me may feel like a very different rod for you. Picking a rod is very subjective to the individual who is fishing it, so get whats right for you.
For me A 80 lb test rod does double duty meaning trolling most often and bait here and there as I have stopped doing long range trips for the most part as spend that cash going to Baja to fish with my father who lives there. I may pick LR back up sooner or later but that's another story.
Like I said if there is no hurry go to the tackle shops near you and pull on some rods. Then go to the Fred Hall show and pull on other rods. For me it is best to pull on rods side by side from one another to feel what I like best. I find it difficult to pull on one rod then in a week/month or what ever pull on another and compare the two. With that said when you do find something you like there is no need to buy it right there. I spent a year and a half looking for a rod I wanted to use for 15 lb test, yes I know a big difference from what your looking for, but I found one used, but like brand new, for $120 and new ones retail for around $300 before taxes. No way I was going to pay that for a 15 lb test rod, maybe even $120 was crazy but it is what I wanted.
I know that was a long winded but my point is get a feel for what you like then make the purchase. You have a rod to fish that reel on already that will work so don't rush it. Just like I had a fine rod or two to fish that 15 lb test I waited until I got the rod I really wanted for a great price and now my son has a very good hand me down that he will fish for many years or until he finds something he likes better.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 17, 2017, 05:19:23 AM
Quote from: swill88 on December 17, 2017, 02:18:59 AM
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 16, 2017, 08:51:14 PM
If you indeed are looking for a new rod, most of the big game rods for our Southern California long-range fishing are now just using ring guides instead of rollers.
What's a newer rod choice for this heavy guy at 80#?
Can I cast and live line with this heavy guy?
Steve
Steve,
When I was talking about a new rod I meant a new rod to you, not just the newer blanks on the market. A new rod could mean a used rod, older style blanks like all glass or rods made of newer composite blanks.
Are you in a hurry to get a rod for that reel? If not I would suggest pulling on some blanks or finished rods to find out what you like at your price point. What might feel right for me may feel like a very different rod for you. Picking a rod is very subjective to the individual who is fishing it, so get whats right for you.
For me A 80 lb test rod does double duty meaning trolling most often and bait here and there as I have stopped doing long range trips for the most part as spend that cash going to Baja to fish with my father who lives there. I may pick LR back up sooner or later but that's another story.
Like I said if there is no hurry go to the tackle shops near you and pull on some rods. Then go to the Fred Hall show and pull on other rods. For me it is best to pull on rods side by side from one another to feel what I like best. I find it difficult to pull on one rod then in a week/month or what ever pull on another and compare the two. With that said when you do find something you like there is no need to buy it right there. I spent a year and a half looking for a rod I wanted to use for 15 lb test, yes I know a big difference from what your looking for, but I found one used, but like brand new, for $120 and new ones retail for around $300 before taxes. No way I was going to pay that for a 15 lb test rod, maybe even $120 was crazy but it is what I wanted.
I know that was a long winded but my point is get a feel for what you like then make the purchase. You have a rod to fish that reel on already that will work so don't rush it. Just like I had a fine rod or two to fish that 15 lb test I waited until I got the rod I really wanted for a great price and now my son has a very good hand me down that he will fish for many years or until he finds something he likes better.
Thanks Mark... you laid out a good game plan to pick up another rod for this little International. I'm in no great rush as I probably won't be healed enough to fish for tuna until early summer and I'm all about saving money on a good used stick or just a newer affordable model.
I am looking forward to casting an anchovy with that 4# golden on a 7', 80#, +/- glass rod. Going to swing by Hi's Tackle box today on my way to the city and bend a few. It's almost as much fun as fishing.
Steve
Nice score! I hope you got it for a decent price.
It looks like which ever direction you go, it will be a little bit of a drive to get to a decent sized tackle shop, that will have rods for you to pull on. There may be more smaller shops in the East Bay, but going the other direction; Bass Pro Shop and Fisherman's Warehouse in Manteca. FW in San Jose and Sacramento. Its too bad Sport Chalet (Antioch), Rod Rack (Hayward), and Outdoor Pro Shop (Oakland) are gone.
Good suggestions here, especially ring guides for trolling. And after you find a rod/blank (pull on roller rods if nothing else, just for the feel), you could shop around for a good price. Take your reel in, when you test the rods, because the Internationals are heavier reels. If you have bigger hands, I'd recommend looking at Alan's bigger torpedo grips.
I once owned 2 Penn 20T single speeds (with the intention of getting the 2-speed upgrade) that I used to fish live bait, 40-60#, for BFT, on a 30-80 or 40-100# rods on San Diego trips. I could have fished heavier, but I had bigger reels. Now, I would try the Calstar 775X, 775XH, 700XH, or 7400XH. And of course, try comparable Seekers, UC, Phenix, etc.
Some reason I thought of brentwood in LA. My Bad. All good advice. Go pull on some rods. Lots of great rod blanks out there to check out.
Steve see Alan vs stock. His arm is 1/4 or so longer, 3 3/4". You need this or maybe Alan's grip on offset handle from our guys here. Mine get clamp upgrades as well, strijemsster or Tib.
Thanks Mark... you laid out a good game plan to pick up another rod for this little International. I'm in no great rush as I probably won't be healed enough to fish for tuna until early summer and I'm all about saving money on a good used stick or just a newer affordable model.
I am looking forward to casting an anchovy with that 4# golden on a 7', 80#, +/- glass rod. Going to swing by Hi's Tackle box today on my way to the city and bend a few. It's almost as much fun as fishing.
Steve
[/quote]
I hope you said this in jest and are not thinking about fishing chovies with that reel. Well you could but you will never be able to cast them do to spool and line weight. Or get them to swim dragging 80 lb line...even spectra. For me 15-20 lb test for chovies that are two eyes and a wiggle in size to tops 25 maybe 30 lb test on the big models.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 22, 2017, 03:57:18 AM
Thanks Mark... you laid out a good game plan to pick up another rod for this little International. I'm in no great rush as I probably won't be healed enough to fish for tuna until early summer and I'm all about saving money on a good used stick or just a newer affordable model.
I am looking forward to casting an anchovy with that 4# golden on a 7', 80#, +/- glass rod. Going to swing by Hi's Tackle box today on my way to the city and bend a few. It's almost as much fun as fishing.
Steve
I hope you said this in jest and are not thinking about fishing chovies with that reel. Well you could but you will never be able to cast them do to spool and line weight. Or get them to swim dragging 80 lb line...even spectra. For me 15-20 lb test for chovies that are two eyes and a wiggle in size to tops 25 maybe 30 lb test on the big models.
[/quote]
;D ;D ;D Yes, just being a little humorous.
It's so heavy... that before casting it I'd want to tether it to my belt lest it should get away and look like a hammer throw at the track meet. :D :D :D
Of course, I'll try.
I can remember flylining anchovies with 100lb on a 50w. Kind of a lob and hope it swims the right way.
Had some time while watching college football yesterday to get to know my new-to-me International 20.
Got the handle upgrade from Alan. SO NICE! Bigger ergonomic grip, a bit shorter arm, and ball beringed.
Looks like a Penn arm. Alan?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_02_01_18_9_59_31_22963251.jpeg)
Checked some drag settings pulling straight from the reel. Reel was blueprinted for 80# and my scale goes to 20.
Didn't feel like putting weights in a bucket - it was cold in the garage! Low 50's!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_02_01_18_9_59_47_22965453.jpeg)
you can't be cross-pollinating a Penn experiment with a Shimano scale. My buddy sticked all his Int's with Shimano Trevallas and i let him hear it lol. They are great sticks for what we do, tho.
Quote from: thorhammer on January 02, 2018, 05:25:30 PM
you can't be cross-pollinating a Penn experiment with a Shimano scale. My buddy sticked all his Int's with Shimano Trevallas and i let him hear it lol. They are great sticks for what we do, tho.
John, hou got a Penn 30# scale for sale?
Negative. I think mine is the same scale as yours but badged Rapala, lol.
Quote from: thorhammer on January 02, 2018, 07:21:29 PM
Negative. I think mine is the same scale as yours but badged Rapala, lol.
I got a Mustad (from Lee), works for both..lol.
yes, that's the one!
Quote from: swill88 on January 02, 2018, 05:14:58 PM
H
Checked some drag settings pulling straight from the reel. Reel was blueprinted for 80# and my scale goes to 20.
Didn't feel like putting weights in a bucket - it was cold in the garage! Low 50's!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/12788_02_01_18_9_59_47_22965453.jpeg)
I did similar drag tests with my penn 16S
can you explain me how that test was made?
I dont understand what "preset off" means and then how it gets higher (I would like to know your method)
on my drag tests I turned the preset lever until the freespool is gone, then turned back the preset 1/4 turn and keep testing until is way too light.
Quote from: steelfish on January 02, 2018, 11:26:31 PM
Quote from: swill88 on January 02, 2018, 05:14:58 PM
I did similar drag tests with my penn 16S
can you explain me how that test was made?
I dont understand what "preset off" means and then how it gets higher (I would like to know your method)
on my drag tests I turned the preset lever until the freespool is gone, then turned back the preset 1/4 turn and keep testing until is way too light.
Here's how I did it Alex... It's the first time for me to do this so it may all change. Who has a great system they can share?
First, the Cam Lever (21-30) is shifted all the way to the back, to freespool, every time I change the Preset Knob (144-50).
I read somewhere that's the safe way to change the drag.
1. Turned the Preset Knob all the way counter clockwise and called it "off". Checked the drag at Strike and at Full.
2. Moved the Cam Lever back to freespool then turned the Preset Knob 1/2 turn to the right. Check the drag at Strike and at Full.
3. Repeat and turn the Preset Knob a quarter turn more each time and check Strike and Full.
Cal Sheets told me if the reel is blueprinted for 80# the max drag at Strike will be around 20#. He said expect strike at Full to be 7 or 8# more. I think that's what he said :-\
I wonder, can you damage the reel bearings by over tightening the Preset Knob. Anybody?
I haven't tried any higher tests because my scale only goes to 20#.
Steve
It's that way with all lever drag reels. Once you over tighten the preset and move the lever forward you risk damaging the pinion bearing by exceeding the max drag for that reel even if that max drag has been modified
I recently picked up the new United Composite Centaur rod rated for 80-100#. Pretty happy with the decision although for a different reel. The tip is light enough to flip a sardine and plenty of pulling power.
Gogettum, Mick
quote author=swill88 link=topic=23703.msg263144#msg263144 date=1513477139]
Quote from: SoCalAngler on December 16, 2017, 08:51:14 PM
If you indeed are looking for a new rod, most of the big game rods for our Southern California long-range fishing are now just using ring guides instead of rollers.
What's a newer rod choice for this heavy guy at 80#?
Can I cast and live line with this heavy guy?
Steve
[/quote]
Thanks Mick... I'm going to check those out. Hopefully someone will have them at the Sacramento ISE show in a couple weeks.
Here's a video giving a good explanation of setting lever drags. Could have put this in the beginners board I guess. It helped me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPt0-zDZ_-I
steve
Quote from: swill88 on January 03, 2018, 03:22:27 AM
I wonder, can you damage the reel bearings by over tightening the Preset Knob. Anybody?
Steve
Steve, that's a nice way to check the drag since zero drag to certain amounts of turns on the preset dial button, but if you are not careful you can pass the max amount of drag and crash the pinion bearing on your test.
since Im considering myself still a newbie (Im always learing) dont quote me on my next explanation but I was told my a experimented fisherman that his "best way" to set you drag lever is to find the max drag on the reel, that will be on the point when it lose freespool.
so, take your reel, put the drag lever on freespool and spin the spool and while is spinning turn the preset dial clockwise until barely the freespool is gone, now thats your maxdrag (please someone correct me if Im wrong), its also recommended to never use your reel on maxdrag to keep your pinion bearing working for many time.
so, now that you found your max drag, you can measure your drag on strike and full and keep it on your records, now you can keep writing down your numbers while testing the drag every 1/4 turn of the preset backwards.
next time you go fishing and forget where drag you were using, find your maxdrag (lose free spool) and lets say the drag there is 22#, then you turn back your preset dial 1/2 turn and you already know that "lets say" you are 18#, etc, etc.
(hope to have been clear, english is not my natural leanguage and even in spanish is hard to explain haha)
You are close there. To find max drag at strike. Test for freespool, the spool doesn't turn at all when cranking, at each given preset setting. So adjust preset, move lever all the way forward, then back to freespool, spin the spool, and try cranking with the spool stopped. As soon as you reach a preset setting that causes a loss of freespool with the lever all the way back, that is your max preset before you will damage the pinion, when cranking under pressure. You can measure your drag curve by checking at various lever positions from this max preset setting, and going backwards until your preset is all the way backed off.
If you are fishing your reel at the max setting, and the drag curve is steep, it is still possible to damage the pinion when cranking under full load and the lever is pushed passed max though, so if you plan to crank at full setting it's best to fish the reel a little below the max preset setting. You will feel binding and/or roughness when cranking in too high of a setting.
Your way of checking the drag is fine, just make sure you determine the point at which you loose freespool, and don't fish the reel past this point, or at least don't crank the reel under heavy load past this setting.
John
Quote from: Tightlines666 on January 03, 2018, 08:39:51 PM
You are close there. To find max drag at strike. Test for freespool, the spool doesn't turn at all when cranking, at each given preset setting. So adjust preset, move lever all the way forward, then back to freespool, spin the spool, and try cranking with the spool stopped. As soon as you reach a preset setting that causes a loss of freespool with the lever all the way back, that is your max preset before you will damage the pinion, when cranking under pressure. You can measure your drag curve by checking at various lever positions from this max preset setting, and going backwards until your preset is all the way backed off.
If you are fishing your reel at the max setting, and the drag curve is steep, it is still possible to damage the pinion when cranking under full load and the lever is pushed passed max though, so if you plan to crank at full setting it's best to fish the reel a little below the max preset setting. You will feel binding and/or roughness when cranking in too high of a setting.
Your way of checking the drag is fine, just make sure you determine the point at which you loose freespool, and don't fish the reel past this point, or at least don't crank the reel under heavy load past this setting.
John
Thanks John,
So, if I understand it, the loss of freespool is at that Preset setting where the spool turns, even ever so slightly, when the handle is cranked and the lever is pulled all the way back.
Then any setting less than this will be safe to move the lever to Strike or Full without worry?
Steve
Quote from: swill88 on January 04, 2018, 07:29:56 PM
Quote from: Tightlines666 on January 03, 2018, 08:39:51 PM
You are close there. To find max drag at strike. Test for freespool, the spool doesn't turn at all when cranking, at each given preset setting. So adjust preset, move lever all the way forward, then back to freespool, spin the spool, and try cranking with the spool stopped. As soon as you reach a preset setting that causes a loss of freespool with the lever all the way back, that is your max preset before you will damage the pinion, when cranking under pressure. You can measure your drag curve by checking at various lever positions from this max preset setting, and going backwards until your preset is all the way backed off.
If you are fishing your reel at the max setting, and the drag curve is steep, it is still possible to damage the pinion when cranking under full load and the lever is pushed passed max though, so if you plan to crank at full setting it's best to fish the reel a little below the max preset setting. You will feel binding and/or roughness when cranking in too high of a setting.
Your way of checking the drag is fine, just make sure you determine the point at which you loose freespool, and don't fish the reel past this point, or at least don't crank the reel under heavy load past this setting.
John
Thanks John,
So, if I understand it, the loss of freespool is at that Preset setting where the spool turns, even ever so slightly, when the handle is cranked and the lever is pulled all the way back.
Then any setting less than this will be safe to move the lever to Strike or Full without worry?
Steve
In a perfect world, yes. However, a lot of lever drags have enough parts that are in slight contact with the spool in freespool, where you may have some spool movement in freespool. You will know the point when you start to lose freespool though.
John