We've done this many times, but as we move along we discover easier ways, so I thought I would share.
I removed the knob of course and drill a 1/8 hole on the peened end of the shaft
(https://i.imgur.com/tP8b04d.jpg)
I then followed with a 1/2" countersink bit
(https://i.imgur.com/9o8TvsR.jpg)
and the shaft came right out with no damage to the arm
(https://i.imgur.com/jcS5w7u.jpg)
the removed knob could actually be reused by tapping for a screw
(https://i.imgur.com/y8jfwU7.jpg)
and here is the new custom knob
(https://i.imgur.com/XkpbcMy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u3NKRkF.jpg)
Best.
Sal
Joel, your countersink bits already came handy...thank you again.
Sooooo Awesome, Sal, you rock brother!!!
Great tutorial and explanation, Sal!
Thanks,
Fred
Thats pretty doggone nice.
I really like these handles Sal is doing. I just think they would get pretty beat up with my use.. Also like the the longer stem that joins the knob to handle. I know it's said it's best to keep the reel close to the handle most of the time but I like a bit of clearance between the knob & handle like what Sal has done here. Some times I'm waist deep in water & dont have the best purchase on the reel & good clearance here helps me .
Nice work Sal. How long does it take to make a handle
and is the process complicated or costly?
How do I get on the secret menu? 8)
-g
Nice work Sal. One of these days I am going to figure out something you can't do. :D Dominick
seems like an easy job when is made by professionals ;)
... and with proper tools
I dont have a bench drill press and it was almost imposible to do with a regular drill and bits, I ended up using some grinding bits on my dremel, really time consuming but it was a clean job and the knob was changed.
QuoteOne of these days I am going to figure out something you can't do.
Good luck with that Dom... ;)
Beautiful work yet again Sal! Your knobs always seem to match everyone's different color schemes perfectly!
Love seeing all the stuff coming out of your shop. ;D
Mike
Thank you guys.
Sal
Bad news Dominick, Sal can always do it & in a profecioal way, with quality & class, thanks for showing us Sal good value, cheers Don.
Snazzy looking handle Sal. I have one more handle to change on a US 113/Baja. I will be employing your newly shared technique.
Thanks, Ed
Quote from: wascallywabit on January 20, 2019, 12:16:37 AM
Snazzy looking handle Sal. I have one more handle to change on a US 113/Baja. I will be employing your newly shared technique.
Thanks, Ed
Great! I want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel. This came from another member, I don't remember who it was, it was his suggestion.
I tried it for myself and was amazed on the results.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 20, 2019, 12:25:12 AM
Quote from: wascallywabit on January 20, 2019, 12:16:37 AM
Snazzy looking handle Sal. I have one more handle to change on a US 113/Baja. I will be employing your newly shared technique.
Thanks, Ed
Great! I want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel. This came from another member, I don't remember who it was, it was his suggestion.
I tried it for myself and was amazed on the results.
Sal
All of those little tips add up to improve techniques and methods.
QuoteI want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel
That stuff is amazing, isn't it?
Quote from: Fishy247 on January 22, 2019, 05:20:07 PM
QuoteI want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel
That stuff is amazing, isn't it?
Mike, was that you that recommended using it? That stuff doesn't smoke much at low speed, it helps quite a bit when drilling stainless steel.
Sal
Almost any oil helps when drilling and tapping the harder steels like stainless. I have used rape seed oil/canola alot it works just fine. WD40 works pretty good on aluminium.
Chris, you are absolutely correct. I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to add more.
Best,
Sal
Quote
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2019, 04:54:04 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote
Quote from: Fishy247 on January 22, 2019, 09:20:07 AM
Quote
I want to mention a drop of TSI 321 has been doing wonders when drilling stainless steel
That stuff is amazing, isn't it?
Mike, was that you that recommended using it? That stuff doesn't smoke much at low speed, it helps quite a bit when drilling stainless steel.
Sal
I don't think it was me, Sal, as I don't really do too much drilling of stainless. I do use it for just about everything else and now I'm going to try it for drilling too!
Cool, Sal. I might try that with one of these metal drill bits I've got....
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 23, 2019, 11:14:11 AM
Chris, you are absolutely correct. I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to add more.
Best,
Sal
I didn't mean to sound as if I was 'having a go at you' Sal - In fact the opposite ;D
I had just never thought to give the TSI321 a try - I shall now ;)
Chris.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 23, 2019, 04:51:31 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 23, 2019, 11:14:11 AM
Chris, you are absolutely correct. I hope I didn't sound as TSI 321 is the only way to go.
I'm not a machinist by any means.
I have cutting oils, WD40 and a few more that I've been using and most get the job done.
I was just surprised that a single drop of TSI321 had no smoke at all and I didn't have to add more.
Best,
Sal
I didn't mean to sound as if I was 'having a go at you' Sal - In fact the opposite ;D
I had just never thought to give the TSI321 a try - I shall now ;)
Chris.
Not at all Chris, I echoed what you've said about other types of oil.
Let's face it, not everyone is willing to invest that much for better oil.
We are cool...as always.🙂
Sal,
A question about handles, I found myself an old 200 Surfer with a yardage marked stand in good mechanical shape, but the handle shaft is rusted solid to the sleeve and the base of the post has been broken free from the base, so now the knob, sleeve, post and bottom of the post all turn. The post is not coming free from the base so it looks okay on the shelf but funky when you handle it. Is there a technique or a shop that can address and correct this? I really want to save the chocolate football knob.
Thanks,
Bob
Quote from: Cuttyhunker on January 23, 2019, 07:20:51 PM
Sal,
A question about handles, I found myself an old 200 Surfer with a yardage marked stand in good mechanical shape, but the handle shaft is rusted solid to the sleeve and the base of the post has been broken free from the base, so now the knob, sleeve, post and bottom of the post all turn. The post is not coming free from the base so it looks okay on the shelf but funky when you handle it. Is there a technique or a shop that can address and correct this? I really want to save the chocolate football knob.
Thanks,
Bob
Sorry Bob, I just saw this.
You will have a hard time trying to fix the same shaft, the best solution that I know of would be to remove the knob and install it on a similar handle.
It isn't easy, but could definitely be done.
Of course there is always a chance the knob might crack, but on these smaller guys I've been having pretty good results.
If you don't have a press, or didn't want to try it, you could send the handle to me and I could try for you.
Just let me know.
Sal
Thanks Sal, here is a shot and looking closely you can see the handle shaft isn't quite square to the #24 crank. The reel is up in my summer place and it will be the spring before I can put my hands on it. The foot is marked 200yds No 9. Would love to keep the reel original and fix post/sleeve issue. I'll give you a call when I get back up north.
Thanks Again,
Bob
Oh, now I see what you mean Bob, that might be the first Surfmaster 200 :).
Here is the problem:
The inner post sits below the oil port, trying to peen that post back tight, you will need to secure the tip on the opposite side.
To do so, you will need to remove the oil port, but doing so will ruined your knob :-\.
Its a tough one, if it means that much to you, I would take it to someone that works with metal.
In the mean time, I will keep my eye open, in case I see one.
I checked what I have and no luck.
Sal
The stand is what caught my eye with the yardage of no 9 linen the reel would accept. I've learned from Mike's writings that the Squidder, first year had the open Long Beach stand in only 39 then to the stronger clamp stand like mine in 40. Surfmasters came out in 40, so my guess is pre war too, 40-42 unless there is a more precise known trait for dating.