I'm looking for a screw extractor to fix this spacer bar but there are so many choices out there, not sure what to get. It's not so big a deal on a part like this, but if it happens on a Accuframe or Tiburon, you'd be out some $$$. I'd like to have the tool on hand for the future.
Can y'all recommend the best tool for this type of job? As you can see I already mangled it up pretty good using a dull drill bit. ::)
Maybe try a left handed drill bit? Heat and cool it with 50/50 acetone trans fluid multiple times then try the L/H drill bit......Bill
Bill hit the nail on the nail on the head. The left hand bit has worked very well on screws in posts and bars. The heat and soak also helps.
Cheers:
Todd
+1 on the left handed drill bits. Just be careful with the quality of the bits because some are very poor quality. Do your practicing on that Penn bar because it has soft brass screws. If this happens to an aluminum frame you will be trying to drill a much harder stainless screw in a much softer aluminum frame. The drills always want to track towards the softer metal so Newell, Accurate and Tiburon are 10x more difficult and the stakes are much higher. It's very important that you center-punch the broken screw accurately because there is very little room for error. Like the others said; penetrating oil and hot/cold cycles are very helpful. Time is also your friend so be patient and let the penetration oil do its thing. The best cure is an ounce of prevention. I have been successful with some Newell bars but it was very difficult.
Good Luck
Left hand bits work but an easy out works a heck of a lot better, plus they don't break nearly as easy. Irwin/Hanson makes small ones. The 53701 is perfect for most reel applications. (https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/spiral-extractor-drill-bit-537-series-combo-packs)
I use quality easy-outs also.
Also use a drill press coupled with a drill press mounted vise for the small pilot hole.
Another effective trick is using the drill press and table/bed-mounted vise -- drill as large a hole as possible without touching the threads -- then re-tap the threads in the crossbar -- any extra material left in the hole will also fill in any slop when the new screw is installed.
Or let me know if none of this is possible -- and I can send you a new crossbar.
Best, Fred
Soak it with your choice of break free oil first. Drill it lightly with a self centering vix bit first to get a true center mark. then go in with left handed drill bits. starting small and working your way out until the remainder comes out or collapses. Almost always works for me. Good luck - Jimmer
i have zero patience. i get a propane torch, hit it with the tip of the blue flame, then count to 20. then you can try the other ways. :-\
The best prevention,plenty of yamaha marine grease, as soon as you get a reel, then you never have that trouble, good luck cheers Don.
Thanks for all the tips guys. Gonna need to buy some lefty bits and a reversible drill.
Fred, my work bench is the kitchen table, so the wife might take issue with a drill press, lol. Thanks for your kind offer as well.
FYI, this screw was not stuck from corrosion, it did not snap upon attempting removal, rather I snapped it by over-tightening. I removed it just fine, but it was difficult to get it back in, then suddenly it went.
Alan, will heat work when corrosion didn't cause it?
We probably weren't real clear about the left hand bits. Being as you have to first drill the screw for an easy-out, you may as well do this with a left hand bit because it will usually remove the screw before you ever get to the easy-out. With a lefty bit it will be loosening (or trying anyway) rather than tightening as with a right hand bit. Also, you need to be extremely careful with the tiny easy-outs because they are somewhat delicate. Lastly...this will be extremely difficult without a drill-press and vice.
Quote from: PacRat on March 31, 2020, 04:04:57 AM
This will be extremely difficult without a drill-press and vice.
Agreed.
Before I read this thread I had never heard of a left hand drill bit. What are they usually used for? Dominick
Drilling holes south of the equator.
Quote from: Dominick on March 31, 2020, 02:19:15 PM
Before I read this thread I had never heard of a left hand drill bit. What are they usually used for? Dominick
Mostly that is all they use South of the equator, Counselor! 😁😁😁
Best, Fred
Ha ha Fred made a blonde joke. ;D ;D Dominick
Quote from: mo65 on March 31, 2020, 01:19:42 PM
Quote from: PacRat on March 31, 2020, 04:04:57 AM
This will be extremely difficult without a drill-press and vice.
Agreed.
I don't have a drill press or a vise. I use a 3/8" corded drill and clamp the item to something solid. I've used the easy out extractor method at least twenty times and have never had a mishap. All it takes is a steady hand, good sight perception of what is level &/or plumb and a little patience. Granted a reverse drill bit will work but you have to go out and try find one or order one. Every hardware or home improvement store has a
53701.
Quote from: Keta on March 31, 2020, 02:20:50 PM
Drilling holes south of the equator.
Nah, we just stand on our heads and use a RH bit! ;D
Decided to give this product a try, they sell cheap enough on ebay. How bad could they possibly be right? Well let me tell you, it was the PITS. Total garbage, the quality was atrocious! The bit points were defective -not cut right, soft metal barely able to drill wood, forget any metals. Did I mention there's two #2's? TOTALLY USELESS. Don't waste your money folks.
Well, I gave it a shot. >:(
I have used these in the past (the ones sold at fastenal} with good results in removing stripped stainless steel hinge screws. These already had a well centered pilot hole from the stripped out phillips.
just my .02. - Jimmer
Quote from: Jimmer on April 14, 2020, 07:33:33 PMI have used these in the past (the ones sold at fastenal} with good results in removing stripped stainless steel hinge screws. These already had a well centered pilot hole from the stripped out phillips. just my .02. - Jimmer
Maybe those were better made. Look at the tip on the #0, it's lop-sided. All the bits were dull as well.
I just looked on Fastenal, they don't carry anything like these. And the prices are WAY higher than the $5 I paid. Yep, I got what I paid for (less actually). ::)
Apprentice carpenter, first week on the job-site -- after talking constantly, asked the journeyman --
"What's the most expensive tool you ever bought, old man?l
Journeyman calmly replied -- "The one that didn't work"...
I have found that I can't spend too much for a good tool -- or too little for a poor tool.
Best, Fred
Sorry Dominic and Lee...I didn't see your question until today. The left-handed drills are specifically for removing broken screws and bolts. You can almost always get them at an auto part store but you need to be careful with the quality. The design philosophy is that the torque is in reverse so drilling is not going to turn the screw in any tighter and with a bit of luck it will be loosening. Many times the broken screw will just come out while drilling. The heat generated while drilling probably helps also. Typically when I break a bolt it's in a crappy tight spot in an engine bay so I need all the help I can get. This is where you really want quality tools.
-Mike
I know I bought them at fastenal - maybe not their brand - used a drill on the drill side and the ez out side in an impact driver. - Jimmer
This quote or a version thereof has been used on or by many labels like Rolls Royce,Gucci,Snap on and others
and pretty much sums up the story.
And Hello!
QUALITY IS REMEMERED LONG AFTER PRICE IS FORGOTTEN
Welcome aboard, Billy --
And please introduce yourself to everyone on the intro section!
Best, Fred
Quote from: nelz on April 14, 2020, 07:09:30 PM
Decided to give this product a try, they sell cheap enough on ebay. How bad could they possibly be right? Well let me tell you, it was the PITS. Total garbage, the quality was atrocious! The bit points were defective -not cut right, soft metal barely able to drill wood, forget any metals. Did I mention there's two #2's? TOTALLY USELESS. Don't waste your money folks.
Well, I gave it a shot. >:(
Worked 40+ years as a general contractor, I've never had luck with those and I used a good quality set.
A left-hand bit has helped, but only a couple of times, most times that failed as well.
Sal
Good to know Sal, thanks.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 15, 2020, 03:28:08 PM
Quote from: nelz on April 14, 2020, 07:09:30 PM
Decided to give this product a try, they sell cheap enough on ebay. How bad could they possibly be right? Well let me tell you, it was the PITS. Total garbage, the quality was atrocious! The bit points were defective -not cut right, soft metal barely able to drill wood, forget any metals. Did I mention there's two #2's? TOTALLY USELESS. Don't waste your money folks.
Well, I gave it a shot. >:(
Worked 40+ years as a general contractor, I've never had luck with those and I used a good quality set.
A left-hand bit has helped, but only a couple of times, most times that failed as well.
Sal
Not just whistling dixie. I used to repair lots of brass irrigation valves. Trying to get corroded SS screws out almost always meant a screw extractor attempt failure, then drill it out. You can always get the right answer by asking a contractor.
Quote from: nelz on April 14, 2020, 07:09:30 PM
Decided to give this product a try, they sell cheap enough on ebay. How bad could they possibly be right? Well let me tell you, it was the PITS. Total garbage, the quality was atrocious! The bit points were defective -not cut right, soft metal barely able to drill wood, forget any metals. Did I mention there's two #2's? TOTALLY USELESS. Don't waste your money folks.
Well, I gave it a shot. >:(
Thanks for reminding me I need to throw my set in the recycling or maybe turn them into punches?