Reassembling the AR parts in the wrong order and
tried to force things. The spring didn't survive.
Lesson learned. Before and after.
Here is one that I will send you, Steve — N/C.
I still need your parts list we talked about a few days ago —
Best, Fred
I was working on it tonight Fred. I'll add the spring and email it to you tomorrow.
Thank You
The eccentric goes in first, correct?
Quote from: sandbar on January 09, 2021, 01:49:18 AM
The eccentric goes in first, correct?
Yes, Steve —
Eccentric goes in first — then the A/R dog, spring, "C" clip, copper washer, worm wheel gear — don't forget the roller for the oscillation guide that goes on the worm wheel nub. They fall off easily during assembly.
There is a tiny groove on the eccentric where the tail-end of the A/R spring rides.
These tiny little 265 Microlites from 1960 are the exact same design and parts as the toughest salt water DAM Quick — the old green giant 270 Super — just 1/4 the size and weight. Amazing engineering! Possibly my favorite tiny DQ. Metal spool.
Best, Fred
Thank you Fred.
When I took this apart there was a copper washer under the eccentric, between it and the housing, and
then a spring washer and lever on the outside of the housing. There was no copper washer under the wheel that rides on the AR lever pin.
Don't feel bad Steve...I have had part destroying moments myself...and just like this event...Fred came to my rescue. His knowledge of Quick reels and huge parts inventory keep these fantastic old reels on the water. 8)
Hey Mo
I'm on a roll, destroying parts on three of my recent rebuilds.
I snapped a handle on a Columbian 62 while trying to spin off the threaded rotor. I just held the the handle at the top, too close to the knob, instead of supporting it at the bottom. I doubt I'll ever find a replacement for it.
Then I boogered up a tooth on a really nice Shake 2052 EE. I'm gathering up the tools to fix that. I'm just lacking a lighted magnifying lamp. Looking at one Harbor Freight has. Might go get it today. Any suggestions?
Now this latest spring thing. Thank God for Fred.
"Don't do what I did" may become the name I'm known by. It would probably sound cooler if it was more like an Indian name. Breaking Bear or something like that.
I don't feel bad, but thanks for the encouragement. I'll chalk it up to inexperience and impatience.
It's nice to have good folks like You, Fred, Tommy and so many others that chime in with advice. Sharing their wisdom.
Thanks
-Steve
Quote from: mo65 on January 09, 2021, 02:08:21 PM
Don't feel bad Steve...I have had part destroying moments myself...and just like this event...Fred came to my rescue. His knowledge of Quick reels and huge parts inventory keep these fantastic old reels on the water. 8)
In all my Years of Auto Repair,Computer Builds and Reel working ,etc I have not had ONE part destroying moment.
More like a Thousand or so...............
Here are a few more thoughts about the rock steady tiny D-A-M Quick 265 Microlite —
8 ounces — fits in the palm of your hand
Same materials and dead-simple engineering as the largest DQ's — aircraft grade precisely-formed frame, plate, rotor
Metal (aluminum) spool that holds 110 yards of 4 pound mono
Handle folds for transport and storage, bail folds flat to relieve pressure on the bail spring
While still very lightweight at 8 oz. — it could have been engineered with plastics, composites, lighter metals, thinner components, less reinforcement, less exact tolerances, etc — but this was made by a company and mindset that would not allow those methods. The DQ reels were designed to outlast an angler's lifetime — and be passed on to a son for another lifetime of memories
Most folks do not know that there were (2) versions of this little 1961 powerhouse Microlite — early and later
The differences are slight — the main caution being the fact that the rotor and worm drive in these two versions were different — the threads were left-hand in one, and right hand in the other. This can cause serious issues for a reel mechanic who is not aware of the differences. Also, there is a different A/R lever — along with different washer configurations — or lack of washers in certain areas. No big deal — all will work together — except trying to thread an aluminum rotor onto an opposite threaded worm pinion.
These are high speed reels at 1:5 gear ratios
The worm pinion also operates the worm oscillation gear — which exactly lets the spool oscillate independently — without any additional lateral stress on drive parts
The main bearing is all steel, over-sized, and of a high quality
The main gear support bearings (bushing type) support BOTH sides of the main gear — in an exactly center balance design — no side torque — no early wearing out or degradation
The worm pinion is solidly supported by the main bearing — as well as an additional bushing near the rear of the frame
Steel, bronze, aluminum — all in a tiny package.
Handle assembly easily switches to left or right side.
If these reels were produced today — using the exact same materials and quality — they would likely be in the $250 to $300 range.
This is one of my favorite DQ reels. Fairly rare because they were expensive in their day — and few folks would come to appreciate the inner workings and capability that made them 2 to 3 times the cost of a Mitchell, or similar reel.
Best, Fred
Yes. Personally I know through experience, I gotta break stuff to learn. No longer do I do the Facebook thing: "Let's move fast and break things". I move slower, ask questions, but still break things, only less frequently than before.
I found a temporary fix for the loseness of the AR cam shaft, in mine, where it passes through the gear box: a tiny strip of aluminium-can wraped around the shaft. That part is tight now, but will it last? Whata you guys think?
Yeah, I never thought a that Fred; the worm ossilation gear works somewhat independently, taking some of the stress off of the main drive system and the main gear is supported on both sides as well.
QuoteI'm just lacking a lighted magnifying lamp.
I opted for these panthervisions in 4X rather than a lamp. (https://www.panthervision.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/6-4002_0775_Jason_Lightspecs_Light_1000x1000-1.jpg) They're a lot more handy for what I need them for.
Quote from: Gfish on January 09, 2021, 06:09:53 PM
I found a temporary fix for the loseness of the AR cam shaft, in mine, where it passes through the gear box: a tiny strip of aluminium can wraped around the shaft. That part is tight now, but will it last? Whata you guys think?
It'll last for a little while, Greg — or it will last forever if you set it on the shelf. 😄😄😄
However, it will flatten out with use on the water.
These have a steel spring washer that is the right part for a fix. Sometimes I just take the spring washer and increase the bend slightly — the spring washer goes between the A/R lever and the reel frame.
I will drop a new one in the mail on Monday
Best, Fred
Fred,
Now that you bring up the threaded rotor issue, that's one thing I have not been able to figure out on this reel.
so the rotor on mine is still attached to the pinion. I figured if the rotor nut is left hand thread then the rotor must be also.
Is that the case or am I incorrect?
Also. At what point in the disassembly should the rotor be removed ? You obviously have to have strong resistance to get it to break loose.
I guess what I really need to know is what do I have to put back together in order to attempt to un-thread the rotor?
Thanks
-Steve
Everyone does things differently, depending on their expectations and demands, Steve —
For me, everything needs to come apart, be cleaned, restored, then greased and oiled, adjusted and micro-tuned. Halfway, or a poorly completed job — will do one or both of two things — produce a reel job that still has issues — and/or tarnish the reel restorers reputation.
Yes, the rotor nut will always be in the same orientation as the rotating head — providing the rotor is threaded and not
key drive plated or pressure fastened.
One of the main things, is to remove the bearing for a complete evacuation of all old grease and crud. This is difficult or impossible to do properly (in most cases) without removing the rotor — and the worm pinion from the main bearing.
The rotor, bearing, and worm pinion can be removed all at once by accessing the hole in the rotor to remove the (3) bearing retainer screws. The bearing still needs to be separated from the worm and rotor — but now you can work on that part.
The solutions and procedures (lacquer thinner & the ultrasonic cleaner) I prefer to use for speed and efficiency — will remove the paint from the rotor if still attached.
You can reinstall the handle and main gear to hold the worm in place while unscrewing the rotor. But on some DQ's — like the 265 — this will not work since the crank axle is also threaded into the main gear — and will also unwind at the same time in the case of rotors fused to the steel worm pinion...so, a better solution for badly stuck rotors — is to secure the worm with a pair of tape-covered vise-grips — then back off the rotor. In tough cases, I heat the steel pinion after leaving it in the freezer for an hour, or so.
Best, Fred
That's exactly what happened when I reassembled the gear and handle. It backed out.
I'm going to try the vise grip idea.
Thank You for responding.
-Steve
Ok. That washer might work. The opening is pretty big though. This Microlite has some wear on it. I think it's mostly the body as the main gearshaft has some(to much?) play in it, but it is not side to side loose. More shall be revealed... Thank you Fred.
If I remember it right, I think on mine I turned on the AR, removed the rotor nut and was able to unscrew the rotor from the pinion.~~?
Also, when flushing the oversized ball bearing, does one remove the shields? Couldn't see how to do it.
Already in an envelope, stamped and addressed to you in Koloa, HI, Greg —
I just use a pick to punch a hole in one shield — remove it — then toss that shield away.
Bearing gets cleaned with lacquer thinner and the US cleaner.
50/50 mixture of Cal's purple and TSI321 — after cleaning, drying, and a 10 minute bath in a small jar of synthetic oil.
Install with the shielded side out towards the spool — and you are done.
Best, Fred
What is the best place to buy the TSI321 ?
Quote from: sandbar on January 10, 2021, 12:33:59 AM
What is the best place to buy the TSI321 ?
Just call Dawn, at SmoothDrag — they are great folks, and also great members.
Best, Fred
Thank You Fred
Fred
Where do you poke the hole in the shield?
Outer race or inner?
90° or at an angle?
Maybe a picture?
Thank You
-Steve
90 degrees — easy touch — it is just soft brass, Steve —
As soon as you are just barely through the shield — pop it out with the pick — toss it away.
I generally like to take off both shields on freshwater reels — cleans up better — plus there is already a frame cup on one side, and a shield on the topside. Cleaner, and well lubricated bearings — with no debris or crud, is always better than leaving the shields on. Really makes little or no difference to reels that get serviced after every couple of seasons of usage.
Best, Fred
Thank You Fred.
That's a well used mallet.
What are the faces made of?
-Steve
It is an old brass mallet that I think I inherited maybe 25 years ago.
Was in a old toolbox from my sister-in-law's father, who passed on.
Didn't think much of it at the time. A few years later I needed a small soft mallet for some reel work.
It has been next to the bench for 23 years — and likely has been used daily when doing reels.
Think I oiled the handle and set a new head wedge to tighten the head — it will outlive me.
Best, Fred
That's a sweet tool. Fits right in with the reels you work on.