Has anyone tried a ultrasonic cleaner on reels ? More specifically on Penn Internationals. Does it effect the anodized parts?
US works GREAT on reel parts...as a rule, I DO NOT use Simple Green on any aluminum, tho it's great on chrome, steel, brass parts. It may be safe enough if diluted, low temp, and low time, but I find Dawn or equivilent at 50 C or so for 30-60 minutes really breaks most grease without affecting the finish. After cleaning, a soak in 50/50 white vinegar to remove any corrosion. There are other cleaners that probably work but Dawn hasn't hurt anything and works so I'll spend my chemistry research time elsewhere.
John
How about on plastic parts and bearings? I am trying to see if it's worth the investment. Thank you
Works well for plastic too. Just don't crank the heat or it may cook them. This can change the color of plastic end plates, for example.
Good tool for bearings, but not in the same juice. For bearings, I'd put them in a jar of solvent like lighter fluid with NO HEAT, then set jar in a half inch or so of water in the bath. I usually just swish them in lidded jar and let sit on the bench, keep swishing and maybe change out the fluid if they are really nasty. Keeps me from having to empty the US.
I've never had a problem using 50/50 Simple Green and water. It doesn't hurt the anodizing. Two years ago I was doing 1k reels a year. Much less now.
Keith
take Keith's word over mine every day. i very likely cooked the daiwa i had in simple green too lomg, so i'm gun shy on it.
50/50 Simple Green for me, and bearings in acetone without heat of course. Bearings take a whole 5 minutes, but some of the really nasty parts can take a half hour or more, but typically 15 minutes for most reels. I don't do as many saltwater reels as many here do, but when I do come across one that's nasty, I'll use white vinegar. It makes quick work of the salt. Other than that, side plates, handles, and frames are cleaned with a microfiber cloth and Spray Away glass cleaner.
We have a huge ultrasonic machine here and we dilute 50-50 water and chemical. We heat it to about 110 degrees. We tried simple green and other cleaners about a decade ago and the ultrasonic cleaner worked the best/quickest. If you leave it in too long (I am talking 30 min +) especially if it is heated you will see a little bit of color fade but we usually let it simmer for a couple min and then a fresh water rinse.
tony
Quote from: Irishdevil0311 on October 07, 2021, 12:00:42 PM
How about on plastic parts and bearings? I am trying to see if it's worth the investment. Thank you
Plastic parts yes however the light parts will float. Bearings and drag washers do not go in the ultrasonic.
tony
Here's a question.
A lot of you more prolific reel cleaners use larger units, but you also have a lot more to clean. Is a smaller (like sub $50) unit a viable option for someone who never works on more than one reel at a time sometimes weeks apart, or in addition to being small are those also a P.O.S.?
Quote from: Penn on October 08, 2021, 11:05:17 AM
Quote from: Irishdevil0311 on October 07, 2021, 12:00:42 PM
How about on plastic parts and bearings? I am trying to see if it's worth the investment. Thank you
Plastic parts yes however the light parts will float. Bearings and drag washers do not go in the ultrasonic.
tony
Why should we not put bearings in the ultra-sound? I'm curious because I've been doing this.
Quote from: JasonGotaPenn on October 08, 2021, 11:09:37 AM
Here's a question.
A lot of you more prolific reel cleaners use larger units, but you also have a lot more to clean. Is a smaller (like sub $50) unit a viable option for someone who never works on more than one reel at a time sometimes weeks apart, or in addition to being small are those also a P.O.S.?
A couple years ago Fred shared a link (Grizzly Industrial I believe) that had a small ultrasound for very cheap (maybe closeout?). I purchased one and it was the best thing I did. It works great for small batches (one reel at a time). I just disassemble into a canning jar filled part way with solvent, set the jar into into the US and fill the reservoir with water. I filter the chunks out of the used solvent and re-use it several times. This way I'm using less solvent and the US is clean so I can clean my wife's jewelry without need in to clean the US first.
Any recommendations for a 10liter US machine in the $200 range?
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Plastic parts yes however the light parts will float. Bearings and drag washers do not go in the ultrasonic.
tony
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Why should we not put bearings in the ultra-sound? I'm curious because I've been doing this.
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Likewise, all bearings go through the U/S. You can shake a lot of crud out of brgs with the cleaner and resurrect bearings that may be otherwise condemned. I can put up with less than perfect brgs in spinning reel drive gear supports for example, but not so much spool brgs on overheads. The only other (unproven AFAIK) problem is with ceramic brgs in U/S; allegedly can cause the ceramic material to microfracture.
cheers
Steve
nothing wrong with bearings in US; I just like to know I'n not leaving any water / cleaner in a bearing since I generally dont pull shields. using solvent, i know when they are clean and dry before Corrosion X-ing them.
I use the US cleaner with solvents in a glass jar on bearings.
One of the keys is to make sure the bearings are not ceramic — they are steel.
Make sure there are no plastic, nylon, or rubber seals.
And I remove the shields.
If the shields can be reinstalled after removing — that is done.
If the shields are ruined when removing — the shields are not used — just tossed in the trash. They are not necessary most of the time — if good grease is used such as Penn Blue or Yamaha Marine.
Best, Fred
The chemical we are using is stronger than the average off the shelf cleaner, thus the reason we don't add bearings to our ultrasonic tank.
tony
I understand that, Tony —
Makes sense.
For me, not for everyone else —
I use straight Lacquer Thinner in an open small jar in the US reservoir. No heat. 8 minutes generally. Bearings, all bare metal (except pot metal alloys are a no-no), never any painted, plastic, rubber, or anodized parts — only steel, SS, copper, bronze, brass, aluminum, and chrome plated.
Nothing I have found is as thorough, effective, and quick as this method.
Most folks don't like Lacquer Thinner — but I have used it all my life for many types of tool clean up, painting, finishing, thinning, and gunk removal.
I use protection, am careful, and am experienced with this method.
Best, Fred
What khz and watts am I looking for in a machine? I see mostly 40 and 50 khz machines. Do I want or need more?
In a SS unit —- with a SS reservoir —- buy as much power (watts) as you feel comfortable affording.
It makes all the difference.
Best, Fred