Can you convert an abu reel that is Non-Synchronized to Synchronized?
I have a 5600 that does not move the line guide back/forth while its casting or line being pulled out fighting a fish.
Is there a fix. I like the reel a lot otherwise.
Thanks
ps. I'm guessing the lack of a post on the side plate would make it pretty tough to afix an idler gear there?
Which model 5600 is it? To my knowledge, the 4000 sizes were the only Ambassadeurs that could be had with a disengaging level wind, namely the 4600CB and Royal Express. There's a mechanism in the palm side that can be removed on those and then it will function like another other Ambassadeur.
Inside the palming side plate will be a mechanism something like this. Remove it and I think it will be synchronized.
This gizmo disables it
The level-wind disengages on my Ambassadeur Royal 820400 when casting. It seems to cause resistance when the line is spooling off. When I hold my rod up at about 35 degrees and push the clutch lever down....it drops smoothly for a second until the line moves out of alignment with the level-wind. It slows the line way down. I don't like that.
Quote from: tincanary on November 07, 2022, 11:29:32 AMWhich model 5600 is it? To my knowledge, the 4000 sizes were the only Ambassadeurs that could be had with a disengaging level wind, namely the 4600CB and Royal Express. There's a mechanism in the palm side that can be removed on those and then it will function like another other Ambassadeur.
Quote from: Swami805 on November 07, 2022, 01:07:08 PMInside the palming side plate will be a mechanism something like this. Remove it and I think it will be synchronized.
This gizmo disables it
How is this possible?
If the levelwind drive is on the palming side, it drives the levelwind whenever the spool is turned. If the drive is on the handle side, it is driven by the handle shaft, so will only drive the levelwind when the main gear is turning. I can't see how a reel has both, and you just take out one.
I could see a reel having versions of each, but not both in the same reel. Switching should require changing a bunch of parts.
And it looks to me like we might be mixing the terminology. I thought it went like this:
Synchronized = Non-disengaging (the levelwind moves whenever the spool turns)
Non-synchronized = Disengaging ( the levelwind moves only when the main gear turns)
Quote from: Arkansas Dave on October 13, 2025, 07:49:55 AMThe level-wind disengages on my Ambassadeur Royal 820400 when casting. It seems to cause resistance when the line is spooling off. When I hold my rod up at about 35 degrees and push the clutch lever down....it drops smoothly for a second until the line moves out of alignment with the level-wind. It slows the line way down. I don't like that.
Agree. Disengaging levelwinds also wear out the worm/pawl more quickly if you are catching fish that take a bunch of line at higher drag. I much prefer non-disengaging levelwinds, even if I give up a bit of casting distance. The reel is much more versatile for the type of fishing that I do with levelwinds (casting larger lures and drop-jigging for saltwater species).
-J
If a levelwind is not disengaging, then I remove it completely. It sucks too much energy out of the cast having all that stuff moving back and forth. Albeit, it helps if the levelwind guide is in the center when you mash the clutch button.
there not aa very wide spool, so why would you need a line level, certainly casts a lot further without it. cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on October 13, 2025, 10:32:11 PMthere not aa very wide spool, so why would you need a line level, certainly casts a lot further without it. cheers Don.
For stuff like working a popper when there is not always good tension when you are winding. Much less chance of getting a backlash on the next cast, especially with braid. Also for working lures at high speed. Easier to pack the line evenly.
A narrower spool makes a levelwind less necessary, but a narrow spool reel does not cast so well either.
I grew up on traditional revolving spool reels and was surprised how much that I liked modern levelwinds.
-J
Somehow the picture isn't showing up. Here's the gizmo I was referring to
Thanks Swami. Now I understand what you were talking about about.
That is an oddball! I could only find this on the interwebs:
http://realsreels.com/personal/V%20spool%20conversion%20set.pdf (http://realsreels.com/personal/V%20spool%20conversion%20set.pdf)
I don't see how that gizmo does anything. That set of gears would somehow have to swing in to connect the gear on the spool shaft to the gear on the worm, otherwise they are just hanging out in space doing nothing. Got any idea on how it works?
-j
I was in faver of braid @ one stage, but now I prefer to use mono, as it wont dig in like braid, or should I say, it will dig in a bit, but as mono has plenty of stretch, it wont dig in as much, less chance of snaping the rig or luer of. cheers Don.
I have a couple of Abus that don't run the levelwind while casting. Neither of these work very well unfortunately.. the 4600CB uses a gizmo similar to the one swami mentioned. Note in the picture below- on the spool shaft, there is a copper spring behind the gear on the shaft. The copper spring is a kind of one-way ratchet, allows spool to turn freely while line paying out and engages when winding in. This adds a great deal of resistance when casting, more than the levelwind operation does. The levelwind I guess has some momentum to it, where the spring just kills the spin altogether.
The 322 disengages the levelwind entirely with a little spring release so it slides around, which tends to lead to line building up on the one side of the spool.
I don't know any way to prevent the disengaging on either of these, but haven't tested with removing the gizmo.
pointbob, what does the inside of the non-drive side plate look like on your 5600 ?
The gizmo comes as part of a kit, a kind of anti backlash device, an aftermarket upgrade. I installed another one on a 5500C, really wasn't worthwhile