3 weeks ago, I was finishing up a job of 7 restoration DQ's for a friend. Was on the last reel, cleaning the parts.
Was up in the shop, ultrasonic cleaner going, tunes on, lights on.
All of the sudden the lights go off, and the ultrasonic cleaner stops.
Went downstairs and outside to the breaker panel. Could not find any tripped breakers —- but reset each just in case it was a faulty breaker. No joy —- still no power to the shop.
OK, checked receptacles, GFCI's —- all seemed good. Hmmm...
Finally checked the auxiliary breakers in the stand-by generator switch box. One was tripped —- reset it.
Back upstairs —- lights now work. Turned on the US cleaner —- immediately heard a snap, crackle, and popping from the US cleaner. Unplugged it immediately —- and I could smell electrical burning and see flames through the venting slots.
Blew out the flames and took the US cleaner outside and tossed it in the snow.
The US cleaner was a used L&R that I traded a Dental Equipment Supply house for about 22 years ago. Never had an issue until now.
Got online and ordered one that about the same size. 6 liter, analog mechanical controls, all SS. These are all made in Asia now —- and are much cheaper than 20 years ago. $125 + tax, free shipping. Came out of LA.
Got back from our Anniversary and fired it up to finish some reels. It works about twice as effectively as my old one —-
We will see how long it will last. So far, have completed another 14 reels —- about 4,896 to go to equal the L&R.
I never use the heat function.
My go-to cleaners are Simple Green cut 50/50 with water, Dawn HD dish soap with water, and for heavily grease encrusted metal parts —- Lacquer Thinner.
I am careful with all of these solutions and processes.
If one is serious about getting the parts as clean as possible on a reel, and wants to save 90% of their time, plus be more effective at getting into every tiny nook and cranny —- do yourself a favor and get one of these.
They just work.
Ohhh, and I salvaged the "D" knob and set screw from the old US cleaner for one of our 30 year old crockpots that had the knob broken off years ago.
Best, Fred
If you do a lot of reels, having a good one of these would be valuable.
Frank
I use mine on all sorts of things- wife's jewelry, crusty roller guide rollers, etc etc. SG and Dawn really will do the trick, though I will use heat to about 50 C to break really stubborn grease clods. I have a brick heater in the shop, so I stay away from solvents in there- just lighter fluid for bearings in a sealed jar with heater off. I'd caution against the heat on anything plastic: it can change colors, swell or get brittle especially with SG.
I have been on the fence for awhile to buy a sonic cleaner . Now that I am closer to buying one ,I am wondering do i get a 6 Liter with 3 transducers 180 watts or am i better off with a 10 Liter with 4 transducers and 240 watts of cleaning power . Is it one of those things that i shudder done ?
It works about twice as effectively as my old one —-
Is that because of a number of transducers or is it a different of The cleaning frequency of 40kHz ?
The paint thinner and gasoline cleaning is getting old and hard on the hands ...
How's onea these do on rust and/or galvanic corrosion?
biggest trick is to use a bowl in the cooker so you don't need as much cleaner.
Quote from: oldmanjoe on December 27, 2022, 03:08:10 PMI have been on the fence for awhile to buy a sonic cleaner . Now that I am closer to buying one ,I am wondering do i get a 6 Liter with 3 transducers 180 watts or am i better off with a 10 Liter with 4 transducers and 240 watts of cleaning power . Is it one of those things that i shudder done ?
It works about twice as effectively as my old one —-
Is that because of a number of transducers or is it a different of The cleaning frequency of 40kHz ?
The paint thinner and gasoline cleaning is getting old and hard on the hands ...
You can figure out the best size, volume-wise, for your work. The size I got seems to do fine for reel work and other small parts. 6 liter.
As for the wattage —- the higher the ultrasonic cleaning wattage compared to the size of the reservoir —- the more effective it will be. I will never (maybe seldom) use the heating feature. While effective, it is just another thing to fail prematurely —- and since I use a flammable liquid in an open jar within the reservoir —- very carefully —- The least amount of heat is preferable, at least for me.
The frequency and power of the transducers is key.
The cleaning is so easy and effective —- that I just took a break from working on reels until the new one came in. Spoiled, I guess. And way too much elbow work and mess — for a job that will seldom be as thorough as the US cleaner. It is very quick and effective.
Best, Fred
Quote from: pointbob on December 27, 2022, 05:13:11 PMbiggest trick is to use a bowl in the cooker so you don't need as much cleaner.
Bob is exactly right. Use smaller jars (glass or plastic) within the reservoir so you don't waste the cleaning solution, and it can be used multiple times. Only use glass jars like mayonnaise, jelly, or wide mouth pickle jars for solvents and thinners —- since plastic will not hold the solution without melting. Put a lid back on the solvent (after cleaning, not during!)so that it doesn't evaporate, is safer, and doesn't smell.
I average 4-5 reels on each jar of lacquer thinner —- before straining it out with a coffee filter.
Best, Fred
Quote from: Gfish on December 27, 2022, 03:45:40 PMHow's onea these do on rust and/or galvanic corrosion?
It will clean the surface of the loose rust, Greg —-
But it will still take additional abrasive work to get down through the rust into good metals. And while clean —- it will still be rust-pitted.
This is where good painting with quality paints or powder-coating comes in handy after removing the rust.
As for galvanic corrosion —- it will stop the process —- but not repair the damage.
I use vinegar to stop the Verdigris green corrosion —-
Once you practice with different solutions, times, and techniques —- you will figure out what works the best for your projects —- and end up only using 2 or 3 types of cleaners.
Best, Fred
I have one like Fred is showing.
When I do Shimano spinning reels after removing the parts and bearings I throw the entire rotor and reel body in simple green mix. It removes all of the built up dirt and grease. You can almost see the metallic finish
One more thing I forgot to point out —-
It is cheaper for a manufacturer to use digital or push-button controls —- but I like the analog (mechanical knobs) so much better.
I think they will last longer, less to go wrong, etc.
I just turn the timer dial knob to the minutes I want —- generally 10 —- and it automatically shuts down. In the meantime, I am drinking my coffee and working on another reel.
Got to keep the line moving.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on December 23, 2022, 10:58:59 PMFinally checked the auxiliary breakers in the stand-by generator switch box. One was tripped —- reset it.
Curious. How did an overload get past your primary breaker and into the standby circuit with the transfer switch off? Assuming the generator wasn't running.
Another one of life's great mysteries...
I have yet to figure that one out. Yes, the generator was off.
Best, Fred
I have two of the same ultrasonic cleaners, well one is a smaller 3L I use specifically for side plates, frames, and handles. They have held up well the last 5 years. On the other hand, a friend of mine has a 10L and 6L, the 10L died and he bought another. That too died all in about a year's time and he is on his third and it has been rather trouble free. I feel these are nice for the money and do well. I too prefer the analog knobs over the digital panel since the potentiometers are easily serviced. A little Deoxit will clean and lube them should things get a little strange.
Fred or Tincanary,
Have either of you tried firearm parts in this model ultra sonic cleaner or do they use a different frequency?
Thanks,
Matt
Firearm parts work fine.
Go easy on the type of cleaners if doing blued parts.
Composite parts are like graphite reels —- careful with the types of cleaners.
For SS or steel parts —- no issues.
Best, Fred
Fred or anyone,
what jars or bowls are you using to fit a whole baitcaster frame in for cleaning? And have you ever had Simple Green harm the finish on any frame? I've had it dull the finish on ABU Revo Toro Beasts, and put some kind of discolorization or film on Calcuttas (gold). And lastly does Simple green cut the grease completely without heat? I've not had great luck getting them completely clean like the drive gears packed with dirty grease. I wonder if my cleaner just doesn't have the vibration necessary
Quote from: Propster on January 30, 2023, 07:52:46 PMFred or anyone,
what jars or bowls are you using to fit a whole baitcaster frame in for cleaning? And have you ever had Simple Green harm the finish on any frame? I've had it dull the finish on ABU Revo Toro Beasts, and put some kind of discolorization or film on Calcuttas (gold). And lastly does Simple green cut the grease completely without heat? I've not had great luck getting them completely clean like the drive gears packed with dirty grease. I wonder if my cleaner just doesn't have the vibration necessary
Here is what I do —- there are many variations depending on the person, the reels worked on, the volume of reels worked on, as well as personal preferences.
Wide mouth jars are used in glass or plastic for larger parts.
If you have a very large part —- like large Senator plates —- baggies can be used.
Small parts go in jelly or pickle jars.
Yes, a powerful US cleaner is the best.
As to solutions —-
Simple Green mixed with 50/50 water for aluminum and plastic interior parts.
SG will ruin anodized metals such as ABU sideplates, painted metal parts, and some exterior plastics —- if kept in for more than a few minutes. So be careful.
Lacquer Thinner is used for Steel, SS, Brass, Bronze, etc.
—- but never for plastics, painted surfaces, anodized surfaces, etc. I never use the heat feature on my US Cleaners —- and never put a lid on the top of the containers. These types of solutions and cleaners are flammable and could be dangerous —- be careful.
I always cap the solvent type containers after each use — never during the US Cleaner operating. This is basic safety 101.
For plastic, painted metals, etc. —- I use HD Blue Dawn dish soap with about 80% warm water.
Never use Lacquer Thinner with a plastic container —- always glass.
Everything is rinsed, dried, then touched up with a wire wheel, "0000" steel wool, and Nevr-Dull, as needed afterwards.
There is an experience and learning curve —- but it works well.
I have used a US cleaner for well over 25 years —- on thousands of reels.
Best, Fred
Thanks for the tutorial Fred. And just plain water in the cleaner? Does it have to be at or above the level of the parts? Do you have a recommendation for the frequency or power of a new cleaner? How long do you generally keep parts in the cleaner?
Quote from: Propster on January 30, 2023, 10:05:28 PMThanks for the tutorial Fred. And just plain water in the cleaner? Does it have to be at or above the level of the parts? Do you have a recommendation for the frequency or power of a new cleaner? How long do you generally keep parts in the cleaner?
Yes, just plain water.
It should be at or above the parts level. Best to keep it full up so that the sonic waves work with the water. Not good to run it dry.
With my old unit, substantial steel, bronze, or SS parts were kept in the cleaner for one or two 10 minute cycles —- depending on how bad they went in.
With my new one —- seems like 8 or 10 minutes is all it takes to come out even cleaner. Painted,plastic, or anodized parts come out in about half that time.
Here are the specs on my current US Cleaner. Vevor, 10 liters. Paid $125 with a coupon discount.
Best, Fred
Hi Fred and anyone else who has an UC cleaner. I wanted to confirm, if you can use a plastic container inside of the UC reservoir? Also, to maximize the size of the part that you can clean, without having to use chemicals inside of the UC reservoir directly, has anyone found a plastic container that fits nicely into their UC?
Thanks,
Matt
Yes, Matt —-
I use plastic candy, nut, or Tupperware containers for Simple Green and HD Dawn Dish Soap.
For Lacquer Thinner —- I use glass jars.
I never use the heat setting.
Best, Fred
I have the same cleaner as Fred (but in the digital format) and I have found myself using the heating function most of the time now; it just cuts through that old grease so much more effectively.
My process is to set the heat to 45c when first fired up, then turn it off when it gets up to temp because the agitation of the water bath tends to keep the temp up during prolonged use. I use glass containers exclusively. My theory is that the glass transmits the vibration more efficiently than plastic (and is easier to clean out), but I have no scientific basis for that opinion.
cheers
Steve
Thank you both Fred and Steve,
I noticed that glass beakers and pyrex were commonly used and recommended as vessels inside of the reservoir on multiple other websites. Your observations Steve seem to be spot on.
Does anyone have the model which can adjust the frequency between 36-40Khz?
I'm looking to see if that would expand its use case.
https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cleaner-c_11064/vevor-ultrasonic-cleaner-jewelry-cleaning-machine-w-digital-timer-and-heater-p_010848941076
Thanks All,
Matt
Quote from: reelynew on March 29, 2023, 10:16:39 PMThank you both Fred and Steve,
I noticed that glass beakers and pyrex were commonly used and recommended as vessels inside of the reservoir on multiple other websites. Your observations Steve seem to be spot on.
Does anyone have the model which can adjust the frequency between 36-40Khz?
I'm looking to see if that would expand its use case.
https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cleaner-c_11064/vevor-ultrasonic-cleaner-jewelry-cleaning-machine-w-digital-timer-and-heater-p_010848941076
Thanks All,
Matt
I think a sweep function is supposed to stop damage by local cavitation/boiling of the water on less durable items. I don't use either that, nor the de-gas function on mine for cleaning of any type of item.
Thank you Steve.
Has anyone used vinegar inside of a glass container inside of the reservoir to help clean kitchen sink aerators? I usually soak mine to help loosen up what's accumulated, but am thinking that the UC will really help. Just wanted to make sure if vinegar was a big no-no.
Matt
Plain white vinegar works to arrest the continuation of the green Verdigris on salt reels.
Also works well on things that might be food grade cleaning.
Like all solutions you might try —- experiment a little first.
If things are kept in too long, and/or with too much heat —-damage could occur to what you are cleaning.
As an example —- I use HD blue Dawn dish soap for stuff that is painted, anodized, or plastics —- no issues. Nice and clean.
If I really need to get some dirt off of plastics in a hurry —- Simple Green 50/50 water —- drop the plastic piece in the cat —- only 90 seconds —- no more —- clean as a whistle.
Lacquer thinner for unpainted brass, SS, Steel, Aluminum, alloys, etc..
Then my wife's jewelry, drain screens, shower drain screens, small parts for equipment, etc.
Best, Fred
Hey Fred and Steve,
Sounds like you both are very happy with your purchase. Do you ever feel that you could have used a larger sized unit for soaking other materials? Was your decision on size based on available space in your work area or a technical matter on the specific unit?
Matt
This size works for my projects.
Out in the metal shop and powder-coating shop I have other things like a large blasting cabinet, cartridge tumbler, compressors and sand blasters, another US cleaner in the same size, parts washer, etc.
But for reel work —- this size is great, I basically just appreciate the analog controls which last well over time, the SS construction, powerful performance —- and the ability to use 3 types of cleaning solutions at the same time to speed jobs up.
Simple and effective.
Best, Fred
Thank you for answering my questions. You both picked a great size for the power/cost. I had been building up a use case for this purchase outside of reels for sometime. After hemming and hawing on this, I bought the 10L with the analog controls too. Doing the math, the 10L at that cost gave the most amount of wattage per square inch. That value decreased when going to the 15L, while not gaining much space either. I would have to go up to 22L to get more power and at that price, wasn't worth it (for me).
If I got a ultrasonic do you think it would fix my kindney stones at the last end of it,,,, ;)
I have been really pleased with the effects of the Ultrasonic cleaner so far. I have been using it way more for things I would not have considered beforehand. I am thinking of cleaning-up some reels from my younger days.
For plastic reels and most importantly, reels with stickers, how do you guys account for that?
I imagine that heat would not be a good thing, but would regular US cleaning take off any stickers, etc.?
Thanks,
Matt
Quote from: reelynew on August 02, 2023, 05:21:28 PMI have been really pleased with the effects of the Ultrasonic cleaner so far. I have been using it way more for things I would not have considered beforehand. I am thinking of cleaning-up some reels from my younger days.
For plastic reels and most importantly, reels with stickers, how do you guys account for that?
I imagine that heat would not be a good thing, but would regular US cleaning take off any stickers, etc.?
Thanks,Matt
I never use heat on reel parts, Matt —- just regular vibration will slightly heat the solutions, anyway.
For plastic parts or parts with stickers —- HD Dawn dish soap and water in a quart jar works the best for me. Plus, I don't let the parts stay in the jar more than 3-5 minutes. Out & rinse.
On some painted parts where they need a little more than the HD Dawn —- I use 50/50 Simple Green & Water in a wide mouth jar. And again, only for a few minutes —- or the paint will start to come off.
If parts are heavily greased and cruddy —- a toothbrush job or Q-tips are useful to remove as much as possible before going into the solutions.
Best, Fred
Thank you Fred - that helps a lot.
Matt
Keith gave me 2 ultrasonic cleaners. I finally tried them today. It didnt end well.
Plugged one in filled it up and turned it on. Sounded like a tesla coil. So i promptly unplugged it. Tried the other one. Sounded like a larger, louder tesla coil.
So I had to think either that's a normal wat for them to sound, or they're both broken. So i went back to the first one. Plugged it in and turned it on.
I then touched the metal side of the machine. And got a pretty dang good zap. In fact a better zap than I've had in a while, and my hand is still tingly. I think I'm done with those for now.
Hope someone got a laugh out of that.
Hi Jason,
I had a similar experience. I bought the same ultrasonic cleaner that Fred had bought. I turned it on and it sounded very abnormal to me. Telsa coil is a good way to describe it. I went so far as to send Fred some audio of what I was hearing just to make sure that was normal.
Hope that made you laugh,
Matt
i recently ordered a U/S off ebay.
After quarter hour of use it popped its clogs.
The seller sent me a new control board because the fuse had blown on the board (its soldered on)
Well i fitted the new board and after 10 minutes the same happened again.
Oh well the seller can now give me my money back.
I will then invest in a different model