I have a Daiwa Saltist 20h that is a pretty decent reel. When I set the drag to max drag (around 15#), sometimes the reel goes knuckle bust. Does that mean that the anti-reverse pawl and/or the anti-reverse ratchet needs to be replaced? I have tested my drag with a scale and I do appear to be getting close to 15# when this happens. I have already installed my new drag washers with carbontex. Are there any other modifications I can do to the reel to get a consistent 15# drag or more and not get knuckle busted?
thanks for your help!
:P
You might have to change your ARB (Anti-Reverse Roller Bearing). If its going knuckle bust, the ARB is slipping and/or has failed. Ususally when this occurs, I would imagine that your anti-reverse pawl is probably damaged as well. Take a close look at the tip of your pawl and examine your anti-reverse ratchet to ensure its not worn down. If it is, you need to change those as well. If not, just bend the tip of the fins on your pawl inward and re-install onto the anti-reverse ratchet.
Good luck...
Quote from: franky on February 24, 2012, 08:00:54 PM
You might have to change your ARB (Anti-Reverse Roller Bearing). If its going knuckle bust, the ARB is slipping and/or has failed. Ususally when this occurs, I would imagine that your anti-reverse pawl is probably damaged as well. Take a close look at the tip of your pawl and examine your anti-reverse ratchet to ensure its not worn down. If it is, you need to change those as well. If not, just bend the tip of the fins on your pawl inward and re-install onto the anti-reverse ratchet.
Good luck...
x2 above post.
This is Alan's old bugbear regarding Shimano and Daiwa reels having the one way roller bearing and Abu style silent anti reverse dogs.
I had a similar problem with a Trinidad. Removed the one way roller bearing,washed out the grease etc and applied a light coating of fine oil to the rollers which solved the problem.
Incidentially, I recently enquired re availability of a one way roller bearing for a Daiwa saltiga 30 from Daiwa UK. They said the bearing was part of the Right Side Plate costing $160. It is not too clear on the Schematics and is not itemised separately.
A member of this Forum kindly offered to obtain one for me if and when |I need it,thanks J, a friend in need is a friend indeed. ;)
Thank you for the info. I can find the anti reverse pawl and ratchet on this diagram, but cannot find the ARB bearing...what part # would that be. Here is a link to the schematic.
http://daiwa.com/PartsDiagram/PartsDiagram/STT20H-30H.pdf
Thanx again!
Diawa anti revers bearings are generally interchangeable with Shimano.
I think Most are an OEM type part made by one or two manufactures.
what is important is the Case OD, the number of splines and the length.
As mentioned before if you fish a Anti reverse bearing with a single or no pawl then maintenance is very important.
If you run high drag settings the situation is even worse. If your into jigging iron it is even harder on the pawl as the AR bearing has to rotate back a bit before it engages and can chip the pawl if things are just right. It does not take much damage to the pawl tip to turn it into a knuckle buster. As general rule the standard AR bearing is reliable up to around 12-15# of drag and is less thatn that if you have a high speed reel.
Jim N.
Quote from: atremblay on February 24, 2012, 09:52:17 PM
Thank you for the info. I can find the anti reverse pawl and ratchet on this diagram, but cannot find the ARB bearing...what part # would that be. Here is a link to the schematic.
http://daiwa.com/PartsDiagram/PartsDiagram/STT20H-30H.pdf
Thanx again!
The inner roller housing is shown as #40 between the drag washers and the star drag on the actual schematics. It does not however tie up with the parts list.
Agreed, part # 40 should be listed as the AR bearing?????
Also check part #31 Anti reverse ratchet (gear).
If its in 'upside down' many times the Pawl will slip as the angle of the gear is not right...
90% on one side, less on other side.. Not visible to they eye easily...
Not sure on the Saltist, but check to see...
Clean and degrease the AR bearing 'good' and ad a drop or 2 of quality oil..
Sometimes thats all it takes, any grease or build up in it will stop the rollers from functioning as they need to....
BUT the AR Pawl should catch if it slips??? Check that Part #31 and end of the pawl..
Also make sure the light metal tabs are close enough to rub the #13 gear and bring the pawl into position... They easily spread & dont function...
Just squeeze them back into touching..
.
Thank you all for the great info...this site is awesome! I am gonna try to repair 'er myself.
Good fishing everyone! :)
Good Luck with the rebuild. Make a note of where everything comes from when distmantling and watch out for those little washers #68 which fit below the Yoke springs, I had two left over after my rebuild. :-[
Lubing the ARB did not help, so I am gonna get some parts. What is the best place to get the parts I need for the reel. I am gonna a new arb, arb pawl and arb sprocket.
Also, I tried to remove the arb, but I didnt t want to break it. How does it come out?
Atremblay,
Welcome.
Regarding parts, it depends what country you are located.
For ARB removal check out Alan's Trinidad 30 tutorial. (About 3/4 way through!) There are other methods using a bench vice and sockets somewhere if the Forum which are worth a "search".
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=45.0
I am in the USA - Connecticut. I did find the parts at Mikes Reel Repair
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/
Are there any other options?
Read this post first.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3605.msg25256#msg25256
Thanks for the info on Mikes...interesting stuff.
OK, I tried the reel one more time and here are some more details...with the drag cranked down all the way, I am getting 15# of drag which is good so far. About 1/2 the time, the reel handle knuckle busts for either 1/2 a turn or 1/4 turn, then stops. Does that indicate its the pawl and ratchet? Or is this normal?
hey, atremblay. i think what that means is that your anti-reverse bearing is slipping. the reason it stops half or a quarter of the way is because your anti-reverse pawl is (kind of) doing its job by catching on the ratchet.
if you've cleaned the rods/pins/needles that make up the anti-reverse bearing of all grease and your reel is still slipping, you probably need a new anti-reverse bearing. you may want to order a new pawl as well, depending on how worn the current pawl is.
I would not use grease on the ARB or the pawl. There is where things stop working. Use corrosionX on both after cleaning.
Quote from: atremblay on February 25, 2012, 08:36:04 PM
I am in the USA - Connecticut. I did find the parts at Mikes Reel Repair
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/
Are there any other options?
Daiwa Warranty Centers are always a good bet. There are two in Connectcut
Fisherman's World, Inc.
2 Liberty Square
East Norwalk, CT 06855
203-866-1075
J & B Tackle
25 Smith Ave.
Niantic, CT 06357
860-739-7419
www.jbtackle.com
I ordered the parts from http://www.fishingreelparts.com for 35% less than http://www.mikesreelrepair.com. The parts are quite a bit cheaper at fishingreelparts.com for some reason.
I'll report back to let you know if the new parts have fixed my problem.
thanks again everyone!
The new parts arrived, installed them and my problem is resolved. I ordered a new pawl and an ARB. Total cost including shipping was $20.
Very happy to have my reel back.
thanks again everyone!