Hi guys,
what glue do you use to close your wind ons or more generally fishing lines? I've heard of Loctite 480. Does anyone have any experience with this and with what results? Alternatively, what brand/model of glue do you use for these uses?
Mexican Gulf
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I use UV nail topcoat ,same as jig ,fly tier use to finish the thread
I have not used glue for years.
If I understand your question correctly, all the wind on leaders are connected with a double or triple cats paws to your mainline which usually always terminates with a Bimini twist. I have never heard of applying glue to the connection as wind on leaders are removable.
I don't use glue either
Quote from: Keta on October 25, 2024, 03:42:43 PMI have not used glue for years.
Quote from: Swami805 on October 25, 2024, 06:35:21 PMI don't use glue either
Me three. I would need some good evidence that it works, and I have not seen any. And from a materials perspective, it does not seem to be a good idea.
While some types are better than others, CA glues have a fairly short half life in terms of strength when exposed to water. The best glues are two part and/or require refrigeration for storage. BTW, the Henkel site has tables that describe all the properties and use recommendations for the Loctite product family.
On top of that, gelspun braid is made from a type of polyethylene (UHMWPE). PE is notorious difficult to glue. Nothing sticks to it. So you are not actually using the CA adhesive to bind the knot fibers together.
There may be some advantage to having these hardened chunks of CA filling voids between the braid fibers and knot bends. But there are also disadvantages in terms of internal abrasion and blocking load distribution across multiple bends or wraps.
If the hard adhesive goes past or stops at the end of the knot, you end up concentrating the load at a small point at the end of the hardened portion of line. I have had breakoffs here from this. I think that this comes from shock load during casting, but it could also be from hinging as it passes over the guides under load.
I do use a flexible adhesive (UV resin nowadays) to cover servings and the braid tag end of hollow braided slid over and lashed to fly line ends to make end loops.
I don't use hollow braid slid over mono for leader attachment with conventional gear, but this could be a similar situation. Hard adhesive probably doesn't cause as much of a problem when serving over a hard mono core, but I would still prefer something that is more water resistant, like urethane UV resin.
If the knot instructions include adhesives, melting knobs on the mono, special tools, etc., I just move on. There are plenty of knots out there that don't require making my life more complicated, and are impractical to assemble quickly on a rocking boat when I am all amped up during a hot bite.
-J
Loctite 480 Instant Adhesive Black / Toughened 20g
Loctite 480 is a rubber-toughened cyanoacrylate instant adhesive designed to bond metals, plastics, and rubbers where high peel strength and shock resistance are required. The black color hides bond lines for a more discreet appearance.
Withstands shock, vibration, and impact due to flexible bond
Rapid fixturing in 60-120 seconds
Temperature resistant up to 100°C
Bonds metal, plastic, rubber
Black color hides bond line
Use Loctite 480 for applications requiring flexibility and impact resistance such as:
Bonding plastic components onto metal surfaces
Attaching rubber gaskets or seals onto metal housings
Securing magnets inside plastic assemblies
General repairs to plastic and rubber parts
The 20g bottle allows for portability and convenience for repairs and crafts. Loctite 480 provides flexible, shock-resistant bonds while hiding unsightly bond lines.
I see that many guys use this but I don't understand with what results!
I no longer use hollow braid to mono. I used to glue it with various substances, mainly supper glue but even tried silicone sealer. They all worked as you don't need great strength at that point, but I somehow never had 100% confidence in the system and it was awkward to repair while fishing.
Probably used that system for 3 years, I can't say it did not work. I think the benefit of this system was that there was no issue with knots passing through guides, but we make so many casts in a day that it still eventually loosened the glue. The other issue was that you needed the correct diameter mono for the hollow braid, for it to work effectively.
I just find it easier to tie a Bimini and the dubbel line to a 80 lb leader with a double Uni. And braid to 80 lb leader with a FG knot.
The best solvents for CA glue are highly polar, with water having the highest polarity. CA glues lose about half of their strength in about 40 days when exposed water or damp conditions.The TDS for the product should have this data.
But in order for CA to adhere to polyethylene, you will first need to apply a separate activator first. If I remember correctly, the activator is fairly toxic, since I chose not to use it for a project awhile back. These activators may be a bit difficult to find for this reason, as they would be intended for industrial use with safety precautions applied.
But the activator and CA glue is not going to work unless you also remove the coating that is usually found on braided PE line (to manage the strands and help retain the dye). I have no clue on how to do that.
Sportfishing magazine is an not where I would normally go for accurate information, but in this particular article, they used the IGFA's knot tester and found:
"I also tried dabbing Super Glue on some standard 12-turn Biminis, and let them dry for a couple of hours. The mean break was only 73 percent, suggesting glue could actually weaken a braid knot."
https://www.sportfishingmag.com/techniques/how-to-tie-strong-fishing-knots/ (https://www.sportfishingmag.com/techniques/how-to-tie-strong-fishing-knots/)
It is the only halfway credible test that I found of using glue on fishing knots.
This type failure makes sense if you read up a bit on knot theory. There is a thread on this topic somewhere on this site.
If you feel compelled to use a CA glue, I would suggest something clear and elastic.
Hope this helps,
-J
I use glue on knot not to add knot strengh but to reduce tag end made it easier to go though tip top
Uh, yeah, no on glue for my knots. Glue tends to break when bent, i.e. going through a tiptop guide under tension. Like Dave said, if a knot takes additional steps to finish I will pass. Just can't seeing me doing all that to re-tie a leader during a hot bite. Bill
Hugely depends on the application IME. For heavy tackle big game I've seen a small amount of Zap a Gap or superglue used at the point where the mono wind-on exits the dacron sleeve. That is just to glue down the dacron fibres. The real strength of the join is in the grip of the hollow dacron, and the real securing of the connection is done with a series of half-hitches made with waxed rigging floss (applied with the entire leader under tension). It's strong and secure, but too bulky for casting. For casting the PR or FG type knots are probably best for connecting leader to braid - re-tied as needed.
Quote from: Patudo on October 28, 2024, 02:36:52 PMHugely depends on the application IME. For heavy tackle big game I've seen a small amount of Zap a Gap or superglue used at the point where the mono wind-on exits the dacron sleeve. That is just to glue down the dacron fibres. The real strength of the join is in the grip of the hollow dacron, and the real securing of the connection is done with a series of half-hitches made with waxed rigging floss (applied with the entire leader under tension). It's strong and secure, but too bulky for casting. For casting the PR or FG type knots are probably best for connecting leader to braid - re-tied as needed.
As I mentee earlier in this thread, there are coatings that work better, cure faster, and are also waterproof for this purpose. I used to use Pliobond, but the new safer formula doesn't work as well. Additionally, Pliobond dries pretty dark, and that little contrasting strip zipping through the water causes the occasional bite off if there are certain sharp toothed speedsters around like Sierra mackerel.
BTW: I think that the Loctite 480 mentioned by the OP is black color.
I switched to clear Aquaseal, but now just use a flex UV resin. It dries pretty much instantly in daylight, but you need a UV light if you are tying at night. I use this stuff because I already had a small tube good for travel, but there are plenty of other brands:
https://solarez.com/fly-tie-flex-formula.html (https://solarez.com/fly-tie-flex-formula.html)
-J