Hello Friends, I guess this will be the right place to share my project with two abused DAM Quick Super Reels that have found their way to my table.
Both reels came in bad shape so I decided to make one shine again and usable for saltwater fishing.
Lets start with #2 that has a damaged main gear, worn out bushings and broken foot but some usable parts that are missing in the first one.
(https://i.ibb.co/m6wGGcf/IMG-20241120-160140.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hDjyym3)
(https://i.ibb.co/9srVGNd/IMG-20241120-154954.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hDmZCyT)
(https://i.ibb.co/WGLV3pP/IMG-20241120-155917.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gmx47FP)
(https://i.ibb.co/0Cdd7H5/IMG-20241120-171220.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4855qhk)
(https://i.ibb.co/gzhNch9/IMG-20241120-160054.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hn36934)
The day I opened it up, the brass gear was attached to the handle shaft using a bent and shortened nail that didnt fix it tightly enough so it would wander around like a mm. When i removed the gear and tried to pull the shaft from the AR housing, the whole bushing came out instead of the shaft. It was so pitted and worn in that it needed a press to finally pull these two apart. The little lever steering the AR dog is broken off right at the base. The AR housing is cleaned and sandblasted already as it was heavily corroded and I had it in the pockets when preparing other parts from the first reel.
I didnt manage to remove the main bearing on this one yet, i used the rotor nut to get better leverage but left it alone after some trials in fear to destroy the reels body. Rotor and bail is in good condition comparing it to the other parts of this reel. After all the little needle roller that sit on the secondary gear, the small washer below it and the handle screw will later be used to make the first one complete.
I have a part reel that should supply all parts to repair that reel , its free if you need just pay for shipping
I recieved #1 functional but in bad outer condition before I found this place so im sorry there are no pictures of it like the day it came to me. The reel was lacking the roller sleeve for the oscillation gear and as you can see in the pictures a piece of the rotors bail trip mechanism that secures the Trip lever from below was broken off and filed flat.
I have opportunity to use someones sandblaster cabin and powdercoating equipment so the parts of this reel were torn apart and cleaned completely:
(https://i.ibb.co/8BmGkww/IMG-20241118-123915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8BmGkww) (https://i.ibb.co/mBMHfd9/IMG-20241118-124034.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mBMHfd9) (https://i.ibb.co/J7vLstV/IMG-20241118-123956.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J7vLstV) (https://i.ibb.co/vmkGkmH/IMG-20241118-123950.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vmkGkmH) (https://i.ibb.co/719PK18/IMG-20241118-124056.jpg) (https://ibb.co/719PK18) (https://i.ibb.co/LN5RC3f/IMG-20241120-173321.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LN5RC3f)
Good work!
I have plenty of parts for the DQ's in nearly every model —- 270 parts are no problem. Maybe 300K+ vintage DQ parts
Those gears, oil lite bushings, and bearings have to be right —- or the reel never will be right.
270 is possibly the toughest HD spinner ever produced by any manufacturer. No shortcuts —- just the strongest materials.
If anything would be of help —- just let me know and I would get a shipment together for you.
Best, Fred
Have you ever seen the metal drag knob taken apart?
(https://i.ibb.co/2hQmxcr/IMG-20241118-123932.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DWyshwF)
The parts soaking in silicone remover before coating
(https://i.ibb.co/CBmkJFs/IMG-20241118-124715.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CBmkJFs)
I can only use whats left over and on the menue here, in this case matte black and a shiny grey to choose from. I baked the parts for 30 min @ 200°c. The bushings and threads were protected with tiny rolls of gasket paper.
(https://i.ibb.co/B66qZQJ/IMG-20241118-143219.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B66qZQJ) (https://i.ibb.co/cLqxG81/IMG-20241118-143227.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cLqxG81)
Really happy with the results for a first one, there are few imperfections inside the rotor cup and the counter weight didnt do well, seems there was oil left in the porous Cast material.
(https://i.ibb.co/HNSf9dc/IMG-20241119-103240.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HNSf9dc) (https://i.ibb.co/x2f0kWb/IMG-20241119-103251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/x2f0kWb) (https://i.ibb.co/7k6dXh5/IMG-20241119-103302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7k6dXh5) (https://i.ibb.co/2SwLznk/IMG-20241119-103308.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2SwLznk) (https://i.ibb.co/GdLfygJ/IMG-20241119-103402.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GdLfygJ) (https://i.ibb.co/pw8pLz1/IMG-20241119-103458.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pw8pLz1)
Quote from: foakes on November 20, 2024, 07:44:48 PMGood work!
I have plenty of parts for the DQ's in nearly every model —- 270 parts are no problem. Maybe 300K+ vintage DQ parts
Those gears, oil lite bushings, and bearings have to be right —- or the reel never will be right.
270 is possibly the toughest HD spinner ever produced by any manufacturer. No shortcuts —- just the strongest materials.
If anything would be of help —- just let me know and I would get a shipment together for you.
Best, Fred
Happy to meet you, man :d
Your offer ist ringing my ears, i'll need some time to make up a complete list of parts as there are some more 'Patienten' on the bench. Thank you :)
Those are the internals i will use for the modified reel, theres quite some wear and pitting but it may hold up some more fish...
(https://i.ibb.co/KWZW73W/IMG-20241120-161154.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KWZW73W) (https://i.ibb.co/QCXgBs4/IMG-20241120-162108.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QCXgBs4) (https://i.ibb.co/JQpkhkr/IMG-20241120-162136.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JQpkhkr) (https://i.ibb.co/vzGPvtY/IMG-20241120-162249.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vzGPvtY) (https://i.ibb.co/T4jdzMV/IMG-20241120-162440.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T4jdzMV) (https://i.ibb.co/85kSmMJ/IMG-20241120-162546.jpg) (https://ibb.co/85kSmMJ) (https://i.ibb.co/V3gwDW6/IMG-20241120-163148.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V3gwDW6)
Right now im waiting for the new main bearing in the mail, then its time to build back together.
(https://i.ibb.co/2M7bWJR/IMG-20241120-154900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2M7bWJR)
The worn and bent one is reel #1, guess how many turns did it take to shape it like that? :o
The matching plastic handle is in perfect condition.
The new bearing came in the mail, its a SKF 609 RSH, fitted on the pinion with a bit of force but didnt need to press it in with help of tools. Seems their tolerance was tighter back in the days.
(https://i.ibb.co/sWjGqGr/IMG-20241121-183619.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SfN8B8p)
(https://i.ibb.co/rcsHWvP/IMG-20241121-183646.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CM2QrWd)
I put it all back together, the handle shaft pin and the one fixing the main gear was the worst part of this journey
(https://i.ibb.co/Z16xJ21/IMG-20241122-071442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5xWL9Kx)
(https://i.ibb.co/N2WXQDW/IMG-20241122-080048.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4R4c9v4)
The drag stack remains original as function of the drag is very good, next step is building a modified fixed line roller without bail and i'll try to make a round handle knob from turned olive wood for it ^-^
(https://i.ibb.co/qm2Yz87/IMG-20241122-093119.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XFGx9Pj)
(https://i.ibb.co/7YGQFpN/IMG-20241122-093213.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LkCrfgh)
Best regards :d
Wow! Stellar!!! Where are you, my friend?
Quote from: thorhammer on November 22, 2024, 12:48:57 PMWow! Stellar!!! Where are you, my friend?
Thank you, Im located in central Germany, homeland of the quicks...
Excellent work, Lauer!
Best, Fred
Lots of ways to makeshift a Manual Pick Up instead of a spring-loaded bail. (PUM).
Here is what the engineers did at the factory —-
Best, Fred
It turned out looking Great!
Fred's idea of using a PUM is an excellent idea for the rotor that had the piece filed flat.
@foakes, i've never seen these factory kits before or did i know they existed, what a great contribution :al
The last part of the manual, that tells the stock angle lever will not operate the manual Pickup properly, does it mean theres a geometrical difference between the stock and this one youve shown?
I only see this washer to fix the lever from still being rotated, so i guess one can still pull it down with some force in case of powerful distance casting?
Is the shape like this one?
(https://i.ibb.co/mqMBrWQ/IMG-20241124-140254.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yybRmjL)
(https://i.ibb.co/pdzgskz/IMG-20241124-140351.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CQ7qXS7)
(https://i.ibb.co/XyrvXLh/IMG-20241124-140556.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RhkV2bx)
Contrary to what the PUM manual states —- an original angle lever could be simply modified to eliminate the bail wire.
One small part would need to be constructed.
The other way is to keep the spring in place and just eliminate the bail wire. As you mentioned, in the case of a long cast with a heavy weight, the stationary PUM would not interfere with the cast.
The factory add-on PUM is designed to be stationary however.
Best, Fred
Metallkopf,
You did a great job. What kind of white grease did you use for lubrication?
Welcome to the site . Very nice work , you did on that reel .
I see that the casting was missing on the rotor , and has led you down this path .��� Believe it will still work with the stock trip lever and bail . Have some pictures and you can see the change in size of the casting .
Personally if I did a manual pickup , I would clean off the other side of the rotor for a clean look . You can use the stock arm and make one . You can file the rotor casting a little so the stock arm and screw will stay in place when tightened up .
@foakes, thanks man that was the info I needed, so I can take the old part measurements to design a new one.
@Milan s
It's a white lithium grease bought years ago for bicycle bearings, I don't know the name or exact type, but it's very tacky. In fact it seems a bit too stiff for the worm gear, now I cleaned everything and put it back together with some drops of gear oil only and its much smoother operating like this.
@oldmanjoe, thanks for welcoming, nice to meet you :)
Yes, actually it's this missing reinforcement part of the casting and I don't like the bail system for not being able to be closed manually with controlled force in an easy movement like on a later 5001.
I left the other side intact not sure if it could need a counter weight in this position later, also im able to build it back to the original bail system if needed sometime.
The tungsten carbide line roller made some grooves on the old pin it rides on, so for best function it's time to make a new lever with a pin that could be changed if worn out.
That finessa looks crazy, did you use polycarbonate for these side plates? If it would be possible to seal up the sides, bushing and ar system, you could fill it up halfway with some transparent oil ... ^-^
I scored this quick finessa from 'kleinanzeigen' for like 5€, seems it's one of the first models 280 as it has some special details compared to the 285 I also have here.
The whole reel as recieved, note it's the round knob ar lever like on some early 270series and the crank arm is flattened not round like the later ones.
(https://i.ibb.co/8B5WFQx/IMG-20241130-155429.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H2zWm9P)
(https://i.ibb.co/9cwBV36/IMG-20241130-155503.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MZ8KG5r)
Someone must have loved this reel so the bail was soldered to it when the retainer broke. The inside looks like the original factory grease was thinned with something else years ago to keep it going but never removed or cleaned up. The tiny screw that pins the shaft to the oscillating lever was halfway out and left a deep mark rubbing the sideplate. All screws are brass in this model.
(https://i.ibb.co/166nkng/IMG-20241130-155547.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DppbZbJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/31WFsMh/IMG-20241130-160443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y05kRYs)
(https://i.ibb.co/fSWskBp/IMG-20241130-160613.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X4Pq7Ns)
I have not seen this type of finessa spool before with the upper part of lower braking plate fitting into the spool.
For a last, the screw that is also the nub that triggers the bail mechanism is round and slotted for a special screwdriver :o
(https://i.ibb.co/pd9pNdG/IMG-20241130-164404.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m4M7d41)
(https://i.ibb.co/sF9jzT5/IMG-20241130-164328.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LCdSHTQ)
Enjoy your weekend :)
Let me know what parts you might need, Lauer —-
Glad to send them out.
That is a 1st version DQ Finessa 280 from about 1954.
There were (4) versions of the Finessa 330 sized reels over a 9 year run —- and some other minor variations between version changes.
Production stopped in '63 —- when the complete 7 reel series came out featuring the Microlite 110 through the large 550.
110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, 550.
Best, Fred
??? Wow that reel needs some work ,looks like a new bail assembly needed. Does the bail work , looks like the screw is loose to make it work After looking back at the picture I see the bail wire is bent and is not closing properly I have never see a spool like that , but looks like some one put the click up side down on the shaft . Then cut the spool pocket . Nice size gouge in the side plate . I did see one that came through the side plate on ebay .
I just realized that is the early version 280 and that is why the spool pocket and click gear is the way it is with the screw on drag nut ...
I looked deep into this German collectors homepage and found some additional information.
http://www.saschas-sammler-homepage.de/info-finessa-280-1958.html
http://www.saschas-sammler-homepage.de/info-finessa.html
To my surprise I also found a serial number on the frame of the reel that I'm barely able to see but it's there. It's 138895 which dates back to 1958 being the year of production according to this homepage. The deep indentation in the middle of the reels foot also dates to 57/58.
(https://i.ibb.co/p4H4cqp/IMG-20241201-215636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/44b4zkx)
(https://i.ibb.co/cJFNmnR/IMG-20241201-215746.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LStCG7B)
@foakes I've sent out a pm to you with some part requests to complete several of my reels, thank you in advance :)
Got it! We just returned from Thanksgiving over at the Coast in Cayucos yesterday.
Please PM me your complete mailing information and I will get the order shipped out in a day or two.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on December 02, 2024, 03:53:58 PMGot it! We just returned from Thanksgiving over at the Coast in Cayucos yesterday.
Please PM me your complete mailing information and I will get the order shipped out in a day or two.
Best, Fred
Thank you Fred, I can't wait to get it in my hands ^-^
It already arrived at Frankfurt international airport this morning, should be here tomorrow. To my amusement this shipment is way faster than our local post office, must be the super urgent D.A.M. parts coming back to Germany ;D
This weekend I cleaned and powdercoated a quick 440 for a good friend as his Xmas surprise. The coating got better, I pre baked the sandblasted parts @270°c for almost an hour and there was a big amount of oil offgassing from the casings and bushings. The color is what it is 8) there was chrome and this cherry red to choose from. The chrome looked great but scratches like crazy..
The reel is still lacking a handle and the spool needs to be cleaned and polished up.
(https://i.ibb.co/QMM7gbY/IMG-20241207-190735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yhh4CRf)
(https://i.ibb.co/3NW1HfF/IMG-20241208-163407.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lt6SfQg)
(https://i.ibb.co/dmh31ht/IMG-20241208-182451.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MBXjWXf)
I also made the handle knob for the quick super from a piece of olive wood, it's primitive like the original but smooth and silent with a drop of oil.
(https://i.ibb.co/pbfXVqG/IMG-20241208-191339.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5GrcpZt)
(https://i.ibb.co/M6JBQLL/IMG-20241208-191213.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hd9h3QQ)
Very nice work!
Best, Fred
The graining in that knob is very pretty! - john
Metallkopf,
Nice job!
Are you planning on putting ball bearings in that knob?
Thanks guys, was some hours fine sanding the knob in front of the TV until it got pretty like that. Before this one I made another but misaligned the hole when drilling it. ^-^
Milan, I like the idea to put bearings in that knob but it'll be quite an adventurous task for me to machine a stainless steel shaft in matching dimensions with my current lathe skills.
Let's see where it ends...
Great job. I tend to cannibalize other knobs. Ones with foam grips are easy to take the foam off and make cork grips.
Quote from: Metallkopf on December 10, 2024, 12:48:10 AMMilan, I like the idea to put bearings in that knob but it'll be quite an adventurous task for me to machine a stainless steel shaft in matching dimensions with my current lathe skills.
Let's see where it ends...
If you leave the knob without bearings, the wood will breathe under the influence of oil. It absorbs it and dries out. All tolerances will change and gaps will appear or there will be tightening and difficult rotation. My recommendation is that you try to design a construction with two ball bearings.
You can also just press in in a plain bearing (what folk here call bushings). The oilite bronzes are nice, but you could also use Delrin plastic. Many knobs are made from delrin without any bushings or bearings at all. The other poster is correct that swelling is hard to prevent in wood knobs, regaardles of the finish
I am not a fan of ball bearings in knobs, as they are far too exposed to corrosion, and I have yet to meet a fisherman that could wind at 20,000+ RPMs to take advantage of ball bearings :)
Good call on skipping the chrome powder coat. I haven't come across one that lasts very long with UV exposure, so you have to also add a clear coat, which changes the nice chrome-like appearance to more like silver paint. But they are getting better all the time.
Curious about the long bake time. All of the epoxy/urethane/polyurethane powders that I have used do not require more than 10-12 minutes at temps around 200c. Once they melt enough to cross-link, they don't get stronger, and the clock is starting to work against you. A shorter bake time is also nicer on the impregnated bronze bearings, and you are less likely to get out gassing of any residual impurities that didn't make it out in your pre-bake.
Thanks for sharing. Your paint job came out nice!
-J
I love the warm feel of wood knobs and have homemade wood knob on a vintage reel that gets used frequently. It's Ipe wood. There are no bearings and the shaft is not stainless. I put a drop of reel oil on it every time the reel bushings are oiled.
I sleeve my wooden knobs with brass tube . For the 270 I use K&S #8132 9/32 tube .
Quote from: jurelometer on December 10, 2024, 06:49:36 PMYou can also just press in in a plain bearing (what folk here call bushings). The oilite bronzes are nice, but you could also use Delrin plastic. Many knobs are made from delrin without any bushings or bearings at all. The other poster is correct that swelling is hard to prevent in wood knobs, regaardles of the finish
I am not a fan of ball bearings in knobs, as they are far too exposed to corrosion, and I have yet to meet a fisherman that could wind at 20,000+ RPMs to take advantage of ball bearings :)
Good call on skipping the chrome powder coat. I haven't come across one that lasts very long with UV exposure, so you have to also add a clear coat, which changes the nice chrome-like appearance to more like silver paint. But they are getting better all the time.
Curious about the long bake time. All of the epoxy/urethane/polyurethane powders that I have used do not require more than 10-12 minutes at temps around 200c. Once they melt enough to cross-link, they don't get stronger, and the clock is starting to work against you. A shorter bake time is also nicer on the impregnated bronze bearings, and you are less likely to get out gassing of any residual impurities that didn't make it out in your pre-bake.
Thanks for sharing. Your paint job came out nice!
-J
I may have explained something wrong, it could be my German brain typing technical English ;D
The sandblasted parts were pre baked at 270°c for 60 minutes before I cooled them down, cleaned again and then powdercoated and baked the coating at 195°c for 25 minutes.
For the knob, I like to keep it simple for now and will try the crude wood on metal tech to see if it really will swell this much in use to stop fluid operation.
The shaft is like 6mm and I bored the knob to 6,5 so there is quite some room left at the moment.
Thanks everyone for your contributions btw.. I'll miss out till mid January, I wish you Frohe Weihnachten und einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr!
(https://i.ibb.co/T2YsZgS/IMG-20241210-193809.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dMjRS5q)
Great work. Look-out Fred, Joe, et.al., here comes Metallkopf!(bist du ein "metal head"?, heavy metal music lover, right?).