I have 2 Finessa reels now,one has the small handle knob,I recently
Saw an ebay ad with a similar reel stating it was a 1957 Finessa Junior Super 280? I have never seen "Super"anywhere else except
for a 270.So maybe a typo?
https://ebay.us/m/7xFnDi
I just got a Finessa 285 with a T-handle knob.
My question to Fred is are these reels the same internally & physically except for the handle? Can 331 gears be installed?
Good morning, James —-
DAM Quick of course manufactured the Finessa reels.
However, there were (4) versions, plus some minor variations even within each version —- some cosmetic, some mechanical.
The 280 & 285 are somewhat different —- although, a lot of the parts will interchange. The latest model is the 285, which is actually a model pre-curser to the 330/331.
331 gears may or may not fit in a 280, they might fit in a 285, I have never tried that.
The eBay seller may be trying to reach a larger audience of buyers by stating Finessa, Junior, Super —- I don't know?
There are the (4) Finessa (280-285), various versions of Supers (270), and then the Juniors (240-245), also in various versions. All are from the mid to later 50's, up into the earliest 60's just before the 7 reel series was introduced —- which included the 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, and 550. The 285 Finessa with the torpedo crank knob was a close match to the 330.
While these Finessas are possibly one of the most versatile sized and strongest reels DQ ever produced —- they are not that expensive. The frames, bearing, gearing, and engineering are extremely tough and capable.
I have around 40 or 50 of the Finessas, and probably another 50 or 60 330's. Plus all needed new parts for all of the versions.
I consider these excellent reels for most types of target species —- but they are kind of vanilla or white bread. Fairly common and often taken for granted.
If you are looking for another one, I have plenty for a LOT less than the sellers asking price. And there are plenty for sale elsewhere for between $30 to $50.
Best, Fred
That seller offers an awful lot of Dam Quick parts and reels. He is quite proud of his inventory and has a history of asking absurd prices for them. :o I don't know how he sells anything. :-\
Yep me either Tom.The 285 I just got was $22 after shipping,cheaper that a modern
Less quality reel,so had too...I said I was going to lay off spinners for a while ::)
I got the 285 today & noticed it has an extra step on either side at the A/R lever,see photos.280 on the left, 285 stage right.
These notches were changed a bit and simplified in later years, James —-
There are (2) A/R clutch positions in the middle —- on each side of the higher protrusion in the middle, that are A/R disengagement positions.
The (2) outer notches are for positioning the crank on the left side for a right-handed angler, or the right side for a left-handed angler. These are A/R "ON" clutch positions.
When you look at the utter simplicity of just changing the crank from left to right —- the simple genius becomes apparent.
Compared to a Mitchell, for instance, that requires about 20 LH parts to accomplish the same result. Or just buy another reel.
Best, Fred
Fred,
My plans for a total teardown on the 285 with ceramic bearing swap came to a halt.100-505 pin for the lever arm will not come out,the head was messed up when I received it. The original bearing works fine so for now I am going to & reassemble to fish with it.Otherwise it would need Pin(100-505),Axle(100-506)
Lever Arm (100-504)
There are some notes for axle replacement regarding new 330 housings & the parts required on the schematic I have.
Often, the crank pins will not come out easily with the typical punch & hammer method.
The aluminum crank seems to "fuse" to the pin.
This is true on 270, 275, 280, 265, 1000, 1001.
If this is what I run into, before ruining a crank blade -- I use a hardwood cradle and a 6000 lb. press.
I have any parts you need. Got your back.
Best, Fred
Fred this pin is in the lever arm not the crank.It's called a "pin",but is threaded with a slot in the top in photo above.
That pin never come out itself , just need to file the head a little ,working on DQ reel need a set of correct screw driver
If you file more on the slot you'll probably end up weakening the head and popping it off.
Take a mini file and file two sides (on the ends of the slot) flat and use the appropriate size ignition wrench, working it slightly back & forth until it breaks loose, & then just turn it out.
Sorry, misunderstood —-
Just need to file or dremel the slot deeper —- then exert some heavy downward pressure with a hollow-ground screwdriver of the exact size with a serious handle to get a good first grip.
I also try to "tighten" the screw first to break the fusing —- then back out the screw.
Best, Fred
I got the tshirt on that trip,anywho.I need some parts after all,should I PM or email the list?
Ok I cut the axle with the dremel,my next question is what size is the acorn nut to get to the
Bearing,a 6mm socket seems to fit but looks like I need an ignition wrench?
Also,besides the handle knob,how do you know if you got a 280 or 285?
Generally, it is a 4mm acorn trip screw, 100463.
But with 4 versions of early Finessas, and sometimes changes within each version, these parts can get switched around over the years.
I use either a 4mm socket or a Mexican Metric pair of mini vise-pliers.
This little tool by Knipex is possibly one of my most used tools. It just works with no marring, and never fails to hold solidly.
As to the model, there are a few telltales to discern the number. First, check the underside of the spool for a number.
And the 285's are closer to the 330 reels.
Best, Fred
To get to bearing you don't need to remove that acorn nut , it's a looking ring at bearing flange
On the Finessas with a removable under-spool metal flange, the flange must be removed since it also serves as a bearing retainer.
Best, Fred
The 4 mm socket got the acorn trip screw out,I replaced the bearing with a Fast Eddie Ceramic bearing.
This is my 1st teardown of a 285,I like my 220s,but with these guys make it simple no badges or decals,or snap ring to deal with.Paint touch up is good with black satin or VHT wrinkle paint.I just need some parts from my favorite DQ supplier ;D
Me caveman,me like simple...
👍🏻👍🏻 Best, Fred
Interesting to know that , Is it the same on 330 ?
:) OH,OH Hey Fred ,Can I get 2 or 3 of those extra long threaded tripper screws for my current project . PLease
Sure, Joe —-
No sweat.
Best, Fred
I might need a couple added to my list Fred, it should do me for the next 50 years :fish
Side note:
my 6 year old grandson is a die hard fisherman,the
10 year old prefers hunting.
Anywho,he showed "Grammie" a granddaddy trick while the 2 of them were on the dock alone.
She told me later after he went home.
He caught a small bream on the bream buster & baited up the
Bass combo with it.
Hopefully they will use this reel after I don't need it...
Quote from: jgp12000 on September 13, 2025, 04:53:12 PMThe 4 mm socket got the acorn trip screw out,I replaced the bearing with a Fast Eddie Ceramic bearing.
This is my 1st teardown of a 285,I like my 220s,but with these guys make it simple no badges or decals,or snap ring to deal with.Paint touch up is good with black satin or VHT wrinkle paint.I just need some parts from my favorite DQ supplier ;D
Me caveman,me like simple...
Sorry that I gave wrong information for DQ Finessa
QT it happens to all of us,good thing about at.com we can bounce things off each other & find a fix.
Also,how do you replace this guy?
It appears to have a roll pin holding it in,this one is rusted??
Those are not an easy project, and I avoid it if possible.
Alternative I do —- remove the spring, then clean every part of the trip lever piece with a fine mini SS wire wheel on a Dremel that is possible to get to, then blow it off, and apply some penetrating oil such as Kroil, or similar to the pivot pin area inside the trip lever holder.
This will free it up nicely in nearly every case, and the rust will be gone.
In cases where this is not possible, and the components are too far gone —- it will take a method that may or may not break or distort the lever holder. If that happens, you might as well replace all (6) parts to this mechanism —- trip lever, trip lever holder, pivot pin, spring, and the (2) brass rivets that must be installed and peened in place.
Of course, I have gotten lucky about half the time —- and the pivot pin is easily removed and the lever replaced. Other times, not so much —- and it turns into a time-consuming and finicky procedure.
The problem when exerting too much pressure on the pivot pin occurs as the holder is bent, or just breaks off during these procedures.
This pivot point needs a drop of good synthetic oil that will both protect it from rust, and stay in place.
Over the years, I have found that this is the most overlooked lubrication point missed by nearly every reel tech or owner of these reels.
Another fix is a replacement rotor which includes the trip mechanism already. I have so many parts, so in the interest of time and frustration elimination —- that is what I generally do.
You can also modify an old pair of flat needle nose pliers as a pin removal tool. Here is a pin removal tool I made by modifying a Knipex 20-160 plier. Sometimes, the best tools are the ones you modify for a particular purpose.
Best, Fred
Yes it looks like the pin is rusted as well,"If it works,don't fix it" a little rust never hurt anyone.I will just kroil the trip lever & fish with it 50 more years ;D
I jumped the gun & got another 285 for cheap as a parts reel.Blinded by the price I failed to notice it was setup for left hand retrieve :o I moved it to the left side before I realized the lever arm(100504) is different .Also,it doesn't have the bearing flange as the other 285 but the snap ring setup.The handles are different as well,one is round-no chrome,the other is chrome. Now I have 2 parts reels...Fred,do you have a good schematic for these guys the one I Currently have doesn't show any bail/rotor components? I need to add to my parts order before you send anything.I know you have some big upcoming projects,no rush,I am retired :fish
I'll post some various schematics later today or tonight, James —-
With 4 different Finessa versions, and variations within the versions —- and a lack of clear model numbers on these, and also parts that sometimes interchange —- it is oftentimes difficult to know which reel you are getting —- until it shows up on your bench!
Fortunately, I have parts for all possibilities, and 45+ years of first hand experience with these —- and you, and many other smart & astute members on our site are gaining the same good experience.
These Finessas don't cost much, they are seriously undervalued by anglers as "Dad's Old Reels" —- it if properly and completely restored and serviced, they will outlast any of us on this site, and become lifelong friends.
Strong, capable, smooth, and effective reels for a wide range of fishing conditions and target species.
I have maybe 75 to 100 of these as complete reels, plus all parts. So no worries.
Looks like Winter stole a couple of bases while we weren't looking, and is now sliding into home plate at least 30 to 45 days ahead of an average start.
Church over in Oakhurst today, lunch with friends afterwards, an hour back home, then time with Sue and some relaxation.
Starting on our RV carport tomorrow. Ordered the cut list for the lumber, got all hardware, moving 240V electrical this week, cement coming in a few days, not going to order the metal roofing until the framework is completed and I am certain of the exact lengths.
After realizing I could not get the knife-making bench off of the truck by myself, I disassembled all of the hardware & removed the motors from the top. Discovered that the motors are nearly new, but they are 1/2 hp 208V @ 1725rpm's. So now I need to do a separate dedicated circuit from the sub panel to this new setup. And I am not happy with the loose wiring the guy did — so it will be all EMT, RACO Boxes, and proper gauge wires and switches, grounded, simple, sanitary — with a master power kill switch for powering on and off quickly and safely. The bench has a steel top. I will likely reduce the size of the bench.
Still selling the boat after I get it restored, and still have the Mazda Speed in the garage for sale, then a complete re-organization of the (7) outer shops to include a truckload of new tools, and all of the holidays and events coming up between now and January. Plus life in general, and spending time with Sue and hopefully a couple of travel trailer camping trips.
Looks like I scrubbed my solo 7 day backpacking trip for this year dues to weather and projects t9 get done before Winter. And will wait another 6-7 months to re-oil the deck due to wet and cool weather.
There will be time for reel work during storms and in between outside jobs.
Where we live, it is also important to be prepared for any surprises either in our own lives —- or in helping others. Life sometimes has a way of throwing curveballs when we are not ready.
I do enjoy having purpose, and staying busy.
Sounds corny, right? But everyone is a little different. Just how I roll.
Best, Fred
"Corny"? No-way. More like "down to earth". Something that's too rare nowadays in this throw away culture. Sometimes it can't be helped, you gotta toss something. That's reality.
But that kinda lifestyle flies under the radar and is just too rare nowadays.