Three years ago I purchased a used rod wrapper and supplies and I am finally able to start building some rods. I have an upcoming trip where a 60lb set up might be useful, so I am wrapping a Phenix Black diamond hybrid PHD760 2XH (40-100) to pair with my Torque 40N2ld.
I got the foam and reel seat sorted, now I need to wrap the guides. But I don't know what spacing to use. Here in AZ I don't have any saltwter stores to visit, so I can't take measurements from a factory rod. Anyone have measurements they are willing to share?
I did send an email to Phenix, but they have not responded and I'm trying to get the wrapping done this weekend as the trip is the following weekend.
I also don't have enough experience to tape on the guides and do some static load testing. I know thats the proper way to do it, I just don't know enough to ensure I'm doing it correctly. So I'm hoping to cheat on this first build and just use some measurements. Thanks, Rich
Try rain shadow site. They have plans for all blanks. Some might work.
Todd
here are few chart , depend on what type of rod you can use what chart
I always find it the old fashioned way, starting from the tip and working down.
But let me give you a piece of advice, don't try to build a rod for a trip next weekend. Just don't do that to yourself. Epoxy takes a few hours to dry but it takes a few days to cure. That functionally means your rod needs to be finished by the end of this weekend. If it's your first, that's a tall order for an offshore rod that is probably getting double footed guides and under wraps. I've built a fair amount of rods, and I have a power wrapper, and I'd like to believe I'm at least kinda ok at it. And I wouldn't take that challenge on. unless someone was paying me a lot.
Maybe plan on building it for your next trip?
Gents, Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I was able to work out the spacing using a combination of provided charts, compariing to my other rods and static testing with the guides taped on. I made some decisions and wrapped 1.5 guides last nite, got 2.5 more today and applied epoxy tonight on the four wrapped guides. I will wrap 5 more tomorrow and hit them with epoxy, but the tip top has to wait a couple days since the one purchased 2 years ago is a tad too small and my order won't be here for a couple more days.
Is it perfect? Oh heck no, it's got a few imperfections. My wraps got better as I progressed, but my epoxy work needs way more practice. I have build 30 or so knives over the past 20+ years so I am familiar with how epoxy works, but in knife making the epoxy is hidden, as it's being used for attaching handles, guards, pins, screws, etc... Getting epoxy to have a smooth finish in an even layer with no visible flaws and it's open to the world to see (and critique) takes experience and a different knowledge.
Pics to follow tomorrow when I have some daylight
Quote from: rogan on September 21, 2025, 03:46:57 AMGents, Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I was able to work out the spacing using a combination of provided charts, compariing to my other rods and static testing with the guides taped on. I made some decisions and wrapped 1.5 guides last nite, got 2.5 more today and applied epoxy tonight on the four wrapped guides. I will wrap 5 more tomorrow and hit them with epoxy, but the tip top has to wait a couple days since the one purchased 2 years ago is a tad too small and my order won't be here for a couple more days.
Is it perfect? Oh heck no, it's got a few imperfections. My wraps got better as I progressed, but my epoxy work needs way more practice. I have build 30 or so knives over the past 20+ years so I am familiar with how epoxy works, but in knife making the epoxy is hidden, as it's being used for attaching handles, guards, pins, screws, etc... Getting epoxy to have a smooth finish in an even layer with no visible flaws and it's open to the world to see (and critique) takes experience and a different knowledge.
Pics to follow tomorrow when I have some daylight
On the last rod I built, I was really happy with how everything turned out... until the turner motor shut off while the wraps were drying - some nasty lumps near the tip. It bothered me so much that I was going to rewrap the whole rod, but I needed it for an upcoming trip. Never got around to rewrapping it, and I don't even notice it now. It's my favorite rod.
As for "the world" and their critiques: If you are slaying the fish with ratty gear - they will figure that you are an OG wizard, but if your stuff is all new and fancy- the pressure is on. You almost need to do real well to just break even in the esteem department (self and external). As far as I am concerned, imperfect looking gear just takes some pressure off.
Good on you for just fishing what you built. The rod is a tool, not a fetish item.
-J
Having the rod continually rotating while the epoxy thread coat is drying can make a rough application turn out looking pretty good. If you don't have one, get or make a drying motor setup.
A sharp razor blade can carefully shave off the high spots, then a lightly fine sanding and finally an ultra thin second coat of epoxy can make a rough application look just swell in the end. ;)
I start repair fishing rod more than 40 years ago . At that time most fisherman have to learn how to change a guide ,a tip top or sometimes repair the cord handle . At time most guides very poor quality unless you have to spent lots of money for a quality rod .Metal guides normal get rust ,chrome plate guides get peel off the chrome and cut line like crazy ,ceramic guides easy to chip off or just came off left only a metal ring . That time I don't have 2 parts epoxy tread finish but only use thread sealer and apply several coat but it do the job
I find out that I always learn by mistake , just do it and practice will make it better , Lately after get back to rod building my first rod I have to take out sand the blank and rebuild 4 times . the later come much better
Try not to use finish epoxy in small batches. Problems occur when the ratio isn't right with resin and hardener In a larger batch if you're off a little one way or another it doesn't make much difference while that small difference in a small batch does. I try not to do a mix with less than 4mil, saves the occasional headache of tacky finish
Some photos as promised:
comparing to my other rods for a ballpark estimate
foam and reel seat intalled
first wrap
missed a little epoxy >:( >:( >:(
I finished up the wraps this morning and just applied the epoxy on the last five guides, it's on the dryer now. Used a brush cause that what I had, but future build I will use a metal spatula. Waaay too many bubbles with the brush. And I never realized what a nighmare dust is, it got all over the wraps and since I was using black thread it showed up and very difficult to remove.
Look very good ,better than mine
Heat gun or hair dryer on low setting immediately after brushing on epoxy should remove bubbles.
Looks good! A heat gun will eliminate bubbles, helps with leveling too
Great work. I see you took the timeline thing to heart, and will be ready for the trip.
I'm surprised you did that goid of a job !! .... ::)
Nice work
Todd
Hey Todd:
Screenshot_20250922-080459_Google.jpg
Naw, I'm just kidding... I wouldn't have caught any grouper without you ;D
On the topic of guide spacing: sure, you don't to just slap them on anywhere. I have read about a large number of theories on guide size & spacing, ranging from the old "funnel" (quite large stripper to quite small) techniques to the newer NGC and KR concepts. They all make some sense and, quite frankly, I'm not sure I have found one better than another in practice. My best casting spinning rod is the first one I ever built and used the old funnel plan with Aetna wire guides that everyone today tells me keeps the line too close to the blank to be any good. I've gotten to the point that, with spinning rods at least, I test tape the guides in place, put the rod under a bit of load with line through the guides & adjust the spacing so as to wind up with what eyeballs as relatively even line spacing away from the blank.
I have never enjoyed using epoxies or any sort of line coating that requires a mechanical dryer and long drying times. Several folks I have listened to that build/built rods for a living say too much exposure of that stuff in your lungs is not so good. Have experimented with varnishes; very much a mixed result with latex-based products. My current choice is an oil-based spar varnish (like Helmsman, but there are others too) that I apply very thinly with a small brush, then set the rod in a way where I manually turn the rod 180 degrees every couple of minutes for about 15 minutes total. Let it dry, and repeat about 4 times. No sags & no drips. This kind of finish is a bit yellowish; I don't think it is objectionable; some might not use it on white wraps. Another advantage is that you get a nice thin-coated protective wrap, and not a big blobby kind that looks like a wad of snot was use to coat the wraps.
Frank
Many people doing composite work develop an allergic reaction to epoxy over time. Symptoms include skin redness, itching, swelling, respiratory problems or (like myself) severe itching. You never get over it and just one whiff of epoxy will set it off.
For rod guides, I stiffen the threads with a coat of shellac and then wipe off the excess. That is enough to prevent them from moving.
The slick high-build epoxy look is a relatively new development that didn't became popular until about 40 years ago. Before that, the standard was a cost of color preserver followed by a coat of varnish. I don't think one approach is more functional than the other.