I found a used one for not too terrible a price. I want to use it for a GOM heavy chunking/bottom set up paired with a Okuma pch74xxh I found for reasonable as well. I do have a couple of questions.
Drag curve: This seemed pretty good. I was able to get 4Lbs at 1, 10lbs at 2, 15 at the bottom of strike (the e), 26# at top of strike before the button (the r). When I pushed the button and put it at the s I got 30, 35 at just on the other side of the button and 40 all the way forward. All with really good freespool. Does this sound like a normal drag ramp up for this reel? I want to put 100lb hollow with an 80lb top shot so that all seems good?
Since that all seems really good I'm hesitant to break it down personally and give it a once over. Although I've been checking the sticky's and see some good tutorials. I've broken down my tlds and an international 50TW and 30tw. I'm thinking on this one it just seems a little more complicated. For now I don't think I want to sent it to Cals just yet but was wondering if there was someone y'all would recommend (does Alan do any more)? There was a guy named Rick in Florida but his website seems to be down. If I could stay in Texas (particularly San Antonio or Corpus Christi) that would be even better. My local guy in San Antonio is very good with baitcasters and spinners but I'm a little hesitant with him in an offshore reels just because I don't know. I'll probably talk to him anyway just to see.
Finally looking at this serial number A050014 it seems by my reading to be a 2005 model before the changes for the new rachet and spacing sleeve? Can anyone confirm as I can't find 100% clear SN info? But if so and it hasn't been done that's something that should be done? Same thing with the plastic shift button? That's something I should change to the metal one?
Thanks in advance!
Roy's Bait and Tackle on SPID in Corpus will have someone to do the job.
S/N info., that's what I'd like to find out about.
If you have the time, why not break it down yourself? Reels that scare/interest me because of their complexity are great and fun learning tools. I usually do a partial breakdown, say on yours, the spool/axel/drag system, then reassemble. Next might be the head-plate and 2-speed gear system, just leave the spool/drag/axel system intact to reduce memory lapses. What's left? Maybe the clicker system and the stand-clamp parts.
Takes awhile that way, but worth it to me. When it comes to my stuff like say my car, the more maintenance I can do myself, the better.
I think it breaks down as A=January 05=2005 0014=14th of that model assembled that year. - john
The VISX reels are not all that complicated. Not Avet easy to work on but not too bad.
honestly, i'd just i'd just fish with it. a larger handle grip would help tremendously. check with cortez conversions here in the "for sale" section for a handle grip. i think you might have to do some drilling to make it fit, but the improvement will be dramatic. yeah, just fish with this.
i will probably not be working on reels for the remainder of the year. priorities for the rest of the year are now different than before.
Quote from: Brewcrafter on September 24, 2025, 12:55:59 PMI think it breaks down as A=January 05=2005 0014=14th of that model assembled that year. - john
So if I understand when these reels came when these came out (2005) this was like the 14th one to roll off the production line. Thats interesting.
Quote from: oc1 on September 24, 2025, 05:40:45 AMRoy's Bait and Tackle on SPID in Corpus will have someone to do the job.
I get to Corpus quite often and will talk to them. Thank you.
Quote from: Gfish on September 24, 2025, 06:20:10 AMS/N info., that's what I'd like to find out about.
If you have the time, why not break it down yourself? Reels that scare/interest me because of their complexity are great and fun learning tools. I usually do a partial breakdown, say on yours, the spool/axel/drag system, then reassemble. Next might be the head-plate and 2-speed gear system, just leave the spool/drag/axel system intact to reduce memory lapses. What's left? Maybe the clicker system and the stand-clamp parts.
Takes awhile that way, but worth it to me. When it comes to my stuff like say my car, the more maintenance I can do myself, the better.
I had about 30 minutes between conference calls today and took the 3 left side screws out. Looks ok. And not too daunting to keep to the bigger assemblies.
Quote from: alantani on September 24, 2025, 02:56:55 PMhonestly, i'd just i'd just fish with it. a larger handle grip would help tremendously. check with cortez conversions here in the "for sale" section for a handle grip. i think you might have to do some drilling to make it fit, but the improvement will be dramatic. yeah, just fish with this.
i will probably not be working on reels for the remainder of the year. priorities for the rest of the year are now different than before.
I think that this is where I'm at. Seems good to go. Internals I saw were greased but I think it's been a bit. That said had 35 seconds of freespool even with a line tag end slapping the frame. May get it done in March of next year. I'll check out that handle.
Thanks all for the advice.
The most complicated part of a lever-drag for me was the axel. So many different washers/ball bearings/sleeves and springs, all I can usually do, is keep the parts arranged for proper reassembly. How they all work together is beyond me. You might be able to take the drag washer, cover and metal washer out and service it separate from the rest of the axel parts.
Got a little braver and spent a little time yesterday opening it up further. Things looked pretty good. I was able to pull the drag washers out. They looked good but greased them with Cals. Greased the major components. Had a bit of a tough time with one of the screws on the reel seat but let some penetrant sit on it for a couple hours and it came out. A couple bare spots but no real corrosion underneath. Protected the surface with marine grease and put the seat back on. Took all the line off and there was ancient looking duct tape on the spool. I had to wet a rag with carb cleaner to get the residue off. Took a bit. Put speed x on the bearings. Feeling really good about fishing it now. I just have to decide what brand of braid to fill it with.
I sell JB Line One Spectra, PM me for a price to compare when shopping.
Are your bellevilles ()() or (())?
Set mine to the latter. Can set STRIKE to 31lbs and get 48lbs at FULL.
Fish mine as 100lb setup with 100lb solid Metered ProSpec. Hollow core connector to 100lb Hi Seas Grand Slam. Triple surgeon's on a 3-6' bite leader of 130-150lb mono or fluoro as needed. It's my night drop reel for SoCal BFT.
Quote from: Porthos on September 28, 2025, 02:13:46 AMAre your bellevilles ()() or (())?
Set mine to the latter. Can set STRIKE to 31lbs and get 48lbs at FULL.
Fish mine as 100lb setup with 100lb solid Metered ProSpec. Hollow core connector to 100lb Hi Seas Grand Slam. Triple surgeon's on a 3-6' bite leader of 130-150lb mono or fluoro as needed. It's my night drop reel for SoCal BFT.
They are (()). I can get more but I start to feel not insignificant binding when I do at strike. And for my purposes (the state record yft is like 216) it seems like more than enough.
Interesting on using the hollow as a connector. How do you do connect the hollow to the solid braid? I've seen people say run the solid in hollow and do an overhand where they join? Others say whip a loop in the hollow and a Bimini in the solid and go loop to loop? I thought I also read somewhere about running the solid in the hollow a foot pop out and then back in a quarter inch later and to do that 4 times or so?
Quote from: TexasEngineer on September 28, 2025, 05:36:41 PMThey are (()). I can get more but I start to feel not insignificant binding when I do at strike. And for my purposes (the state record yft is like 216) it seems like more than enough.
Interesting on using the hollow as a connector. How do you do connect the hollow to the solid braid? I've seen people say run the solid in hollow and do an overhand where they join? Others say whip a loop in the hollow and a Bimini in the solid and go loop to loop? I thought I also read somewhere about running the solid in the hollow a foot pop out and then back in a quarter inch later and to do that 4 times or so?
- http://garyteraoka.blogspot.com/2008/06/nub-connection-system.html
- https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,23566.msg260997.html#msg260997
My config and application is here (2nd 1/2 of post): https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,39871.0.html
As line-class goes up, backup sets of nail knot/nubs are added. Tag ends + one set up to 50lb. + two sets for 60 and 80; + three sets for 100lb+
(https://i.imgur.com/n8oGkcC.jpeg)
So far, no failures, so I've tied enough to be confident about using it.
On my 16VSX, memory says 200+ yds of solid 100lb Suffix yellow braid backing, hollow core connected to ~400 yds of 100lb metered ProSpec. With that working (field-confirmed on this past July's 3-day), am seeing other ways of leveraging the solid braid that I have.
Since night jigging/eddy bomb dropping for SoCal BFT is usually in the 100-300' depths, can load up with solid backing until there is 150-200 yds capacity left. Then hollow core connect to metered braid and fill until "full" spool leaving just enough capacity for the top shot. This will just involve a hollow core connector of 6' to 12'. A fairly "cheap" way to utilize existing solid braid (spare or transfer) with the benefit of 100% strength in the splice.
Of course, YMMV depending on how you configure for GOM requirements.
Outstanding information. Thank you!!!