Reel Repair by Alan Tani

  Have been thinking about powder coating for a year or so .  Started watching a few U tubes And seen a few modification  for the low end guns .     I picked up a Harbor freight coating kit and drilled the two extra holes for better atomizing the powder coming out of the gun .

    My first try was a spool I had made for 440n . It went well with the matte black powder .
 Next try was a 330n model casting , also with good results .

   With such good results , I will take this more seriously and get some colors and a bigger oven .

Your work looks pretty good to me Joe. Now you got me interested.

Looks great, Joe!

Best, Fred

Good job!  Jurelometer has quite a bit of experience on powder coat as well.  I've never tried it but that looks great!!! - john

 For the first time doing this , I did surprise myself with the results .   For years I could not justified doing powder coating .   Paint today in rattle cans is just getting out of hand .  As of now , my first impression , powder coat may be cheaper with better durability .   I will look at how far powder will go , compared to paint .

 Some of my reels suffer hook scrapes and chips , hope this is a game changer . Time will tell.

Quote from: Brewcrafter on October 16, 2025, 08:56:35 PMGood job!  Jurelometer has quite a bit of experience on powder coat as well.  I've never tried it but that looks great!!! - john

Yes I will look for more information and workarounds . The faraday effect is the one to work around . Hot flocking seams to be the ticket for a work around with the cheaper guns .

Looking good Joe!

It looks like you are getting the hang of it.

Quote from: Brewcrafter on October 16, 2025, 08:56:35 PMGood job!  Jurelometer has quite a bit of experience on powder coat as well.  I've never tried it but that looks great!!! - john

I wouldn't say quite a bit of experience, but I have learned some stuff, mostly the hard way.



Some stuff that I have learned:

1.  If you have a way to blast or sand the part to get a uniform  rough surface, the paint will get a really good grip.  I used garnet media in a blast cabinet for reel parts. The powder does a good job of self leveling, so you don't need (or want) a smooth part.  The powder melts into all the nooks and crannies and digs in good. 

2. Follow the manufacturer's paint schedule.  Use the exact temp and bake time from the moment that that the part surface reaches the proper temp.  Many folk pull the part too early because it looks good, but the cross linking hasn't finished yet.  If you go too long, you can scald the paint.

3.  For refinishing parts, do a series of pre bakes to outgas an lubricants of other gunk that have leached into the part before you do the powder coating. Cool, clean and repeat until the part comes out of the oven clean.

4.  Powder is mostly a one shot deal.  Touchup is tricky, and if you prepped well, it is nearly impossible to blast or sand off a cured powder coat without messing up the part.  There are solvents for removing cured polyurethane powder coating, but until recently, the choices were all super toxic. Never tried removing powder coat with solvent myself. I have ruined old brass Penn parts by trying to blast off an ugly powder coat. 

5.  Hot flocking is considered a bit of a hack, but I am with you.  It can work pretty well on small parts if you have a light touch.

Keep us updated on your progress.  I want to see photos!

-J

I had a Mitchell 300 powder coated at an off road shop.They primarily do wheels it was his 1st reel & he didn't plug all the screw holes :o So I had to buy some small metric taps to clean those holes,not fun,it's tough stuff !

A local gun shop does Cerakote & DuraCoat,they wanted $70 to do a Cardinal 4,so that didn't happen...

Sidenote:
I tried to get Penn Greenie paint computer matched at a local auto paint supplier,their software requires a 3" sample  to match the paint.

If any of you guys find a perfect match for Penn Greenie paint, please share it?

Quote from: jgp12000 on October 17, 2025, 10:11:03 AMI had a Mitchell 300 powder coated at an off road shop.They primarily do wheels it was his 1st reel & he didn't plug all the screw holes :o So I had to buy some small metric taps to clean those holes,not fun,it's tough stuff !

A local gun shop does Cerakote & DuraCoat,they wanted $70 to do a Cardinal 4,so that didn't happen...

Sidenote:
I tried to get Penn Greenie paint computer matched at a local auto paint supplier,their software requires a 3" sample  to match the paint.

If any of you guys find a perfect match for Penn Greenie paint, please share it?

I learned that the hard way too!  I broke a 5-40 tap trying to clean out some threaded holes.  I thought it would be easier than plugging the holes, but powder coat is much tougher than regular paint.


There are inexpensive silicone plug kits that are really useful for this purpose.  For flat surfaces, there is also high temp tape.  If you have steady hands, you can also use a q-tip dampened with water to remove the powder from specific areas before baking, but for spots like threaded holes, this is risky, as the nearby powder could flow in as it liquefies during curing.

Color matching services with powder is more expensive with larger minimum orders than normal paint, as it is not as simple as adding a few drops of colorant at the  local paint store. There are some powder suppliers that provide a large amount of colors, including RAL colors, so you could look into RAL color matching to see if there is something close to your greenie in powder form.

From what I have read, those ceramic gun coating products like cerakote are basically  the same stuff as typical baked in powder(sometimes suspended in solution for application) with ceramic powder added to increase hardness.  But there is no free lunch in material science.  You get a thinner and harder coat that is more scratch resistant than regular powder at the expense of being less elastic, so it is more prone to chipping and flaking instead.

Oh, and for others out there getting started with powder: Don't use the oven that you cook your food in to prep and bake powder coated parts. You are releasing some nasty gases and  particulates into your oven and surroundings.

Now that I no longer have access to a big commercial powder coating oven, I am doing my stuff at home with a large toaster oven with a few mods.  It works fine for small batches of small parts like reel bodies.  If you have the space and know your way around wiring, an old electric oven works even better, and gives you room for larger parts.

-J

Dave you really oughta add "there's no free lunch in materials science" as your signature line.

(I don't have anything meaningful to add this is beyond me)

You had me at "free lunch" ;D

  What ,I missed out on a free lunch ,wait let me look in the toaster oven .

   I was watching a clip on powdering a wheel rim , and they vacuumed all the places that they did not want coated . Just to highlight the spokes in the rim

Hi Joe, this is a very interesting post, can you give me more details about using the oven, I imagined, that the parts would be hung in the oven when heating, or place on a very fine mesh, thanks again, cheers Don.

Quote from: Donnyboat on October 18, 2025, 11:38:38 PMHi Joe, this is a very interesting post, can you give me more details about using the oven, I imagined, that the parts would be hung in the oven when heating, or place on a very fine mesh, thanks again, cheers Don.

I'll let Joe answer your questions, but here is a thread on powder coating reel parts that I did when I first joined this site:

https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,9622.0.html (https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,9622.0.html)

-J

 The toaster oven is small , I found that i can balance the reel body on a pipe nipple . rite side up .    Rotor went upside down on a nut . the parts are grounded and a little lifted so I can powder everything.

  When I get a bigger oven ,I can have room for wire suspension .

Cooked up two 331n reels , mat black and red today .  May mix up some parts on assembly .

Cleaned up the blow by and shot test pieces , just to see what happens .

Looks really good, Joe —-

Looking forward to getting my PC project up and running.

Once a couple of other projects are completed —- I'll start up the line.

Just hard-wired the large oven with 220V last week, all encased in EMT conduit, RACO boxes, and 8 gauge wiring with a 40 AMP breaker in the sub-panel box —- last week.  That was the last piece of the puzzle needed to move forward.  I have a nearly new smaller oven, but wanted a larger one for volume and larger pieces.

Gonna be a lot of purple, red, orange, yellow, tan, grey, and other colored Cardinals, DQ's, Mitchell's, and Penns.

Best, Fred

I used the powder from Harbor Freight to paint jigs and it don't work as good as Pro-tec Powder paint ,it seem required more heat to melt and don't melt even

 As I am learning , there are a lot of powders that have different temperature cures and time needed to flow .  Then there is different powder makeup :   There are three main categories of powder coatings: thermosets, thermoplastics, and UV curable powder coatings. Thermoset powder coatings incorporate a cross-linker into the formulation.

I ordered up some powder from  " The Powder coat store "   I shot two 550 dams with Chrome for base coats .       The chrome does look like chrome , but if you want chrome they do say to put clear on top .   I did shoot some candy purple metallic on the ruff looking casting first .
 
Tomorrow I will try the candy red metallic .   There is a learning curve to get the second coat on with a cheap gun .

You are really getting this dialed in perfectly, Joe!

Looks excellent.

There are so many possibilities with powder coating —- particularly with rough old scratched up quality reels.

Best, Fred

Thanks for all your detailed info Joe & Dave, cheers Don.

Looking good Joe.

I lurve candies! You can also use them over other other colors too, not just chrome.  Candies over white works well, and candies over black can be spectacular - like a car show custom hot rod paint job.


I did notice than there was a lot of residue in in your cardboard spray booth.  There should only be at most a light coating left behind if everything is adjusted correctly.  A good pressure regulator (not the one built into your shop compressor) is important.  There should also be a mix valve on the gun, and voltage settings.  Getting these dialed in will allow for a light misting of the powder as you apply, and lower voltage settings can sometimes help with the Farady effect on those internal corners.  Trying a few sample coatings  on some scrap with different settings and coating thicknesses will help to get everything  dialed in.

For the second coat, sometimes lowering then voltage will help, but the main thing is to maintain bare metal to metal contact between the ground and the part.  Not going too thick on the undercoat can help too. I have had to resort to hot flocking on occasion, but as I get better at it, this is a less frequent situation.

To cut down on orange peeling and increase durability, you want a thick top coat, but only if it is applied very evenly.  This is where the light misting of the powder comes into play. A light cloud of powder around the part will result  in the the most even coat. And hanging the parts instead of resting on one side when coating and baking will make this much easier.

  Here is a simple hanging setup I use for coating lures

(https://alantani.com/gallery/32/7588_23_05_20_6_03_43_32757134.jpeg)

I have a larger toaster oven, so hanging the parts is not an issue. 

Please keep posting your progress.  This is fun!

-J

  I traded in my cardboard box for a plastic box .  I will and can clean each color now with no waste .  And it appears that the powder clings to the plastic box and then falls which is nice , no lingering cloud . 
  The gun I have now does have a tendency  to blow a lot of powder when you first pull the trigger , then blows a nice light cloud .   So I treat it like spray painting ,pull and then sweep into the  project .    This gun is single kv at 15 .  I did order another gun with multiple setting to try .

Now I will show you some pictures with some problems I came across . Base coat is nice chrome .   
   Shot the red candy metallic and had a big drip and some balding ,back ionization .

     Filed the drips down , reheated to 200 degrees and shot with no static charge .   Came out good looking .  I am still learning to dial in this type of gun . Practice ,practice .

    OH and I did shoot a new chrome Lakeland reel seat , witch came out real nice .

   Once I assemble the reels I will post pictures .   

Joe forgive me if I missed it but how do you strip the old paint off before you powder coat?

I have used Citristrip with good results.

 I drop them in a container of gasoline to start stripping .   Some reels are in for 30 minutes and the paint is off with a little brushing .   Than I move on to the sand blaster .

 J what gun are you using in the picture ?     I have this one coming soon .
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SVOPES-50KV-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System-Complete-Kit-with-Spray-Gun-Nozzles-Powder-Cups-for-Home-DIY-Commercial-Use-JDFMPTJ50KV4SPYOKV1-0819/332848396

    This one has 5 kv settings , and looks to have the same style gun as the harbor freight gun .
  Looks like we are using the same size toaster oven , I am on the lookout for a bigger oven . Not to big , otherwise anything that fits in is fare game to get shot .

 Finished photo of reels .
  I am going to sink a 10 foot ground rod next to the garage door , to see if that is going to help any .  The next batch of reels will be 330 ..

Man, that cherry red DAM is a beaut!

A beauty indeed.  Nice work.  Dominick

Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 21, 2025, 01:08:33 PMJ what gun are you using in the picture ?    I have this one coming soon .
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SVOPES-50KV-Electrostatic-Powder-Coating-System-Complete-Kit-with-Spray-Gun-Nozzles-Powder-Cups-for-Home-DIY-Commercial-Use-JDFMPTJ50KV4SPYOKV1-0819/332848396

    This one has 5 kv settings , and looks to have the same style gun as the harbor freight gun .

That looks a bit like mine. Like mine, the charge pedal is not ideal, as it doesn't occupy your free hand like the safety switch that is becoming  more common, so a higher risk  of accidentally shocking yourself.

  I have a lower end Eastwood that they don't appear to sell anymore.  The voltage is adjustable from around 20K to 40K.  There is a mixer knob on the handle.  I believe it controls the amount of air that gets diverted to the cup, with the rest going directly out the nozzle.  My guess is that you need the right ratio to get fluidization in the cup and propellant force out the nozzle, and that is going to change with the  amount of air pressure and maybe the amount of powder in the cup. 

But even if I am wrong as to why it works,  adjusting this knob has a huge effect on getting a well dispersed powder cloud.

Looking at your parts with second coat issues, it looks just like the  symptoms that I get from time to time. Some powders are less friendly than others.   Ink black seems to always be up for a fight as a second coat. Using a fresh hanger wire and removing any paint on the part where it touches the wire contact point, and trying a lower voltage usually fixes second cost issues.

But once you fail to get a second coat to stick, you can end up with an electrostatic charge on the  part that gives the whole part a faraday cage.  Or something like that:).  Even if you have fixed the original problem, the second coat still won't stick. At this point you either have to wash and dry the part or heat it in the oven for a bit, and then try again.

Also that deflector on the tip can be moved back and forth or removed to adjust the spray area.  With no deflector and lower air pressure- maybe 5-6 PSI, you can get a smaller cloud useful for small detailed parts. A good air pressure regulator is key here.

I never tried running a fresh grounding rod just  for powder coating.  My outlet is near the service box/grounding rod already, and I figure if the first coat always works fine, then insufficient grounding is probably not an issue.  I am interested to see what you find out.

QuoteLooks like we are using the same size toaster oven , I am on the lookout for a bigger oven. Not to big , otherwise anything that fits in is fare game to get
shot .

I was exactly the same way when I started powder coating!  If it was metal, fit in the oven, and not bolted down too heavily, it was getting powder coated.  I had access to a walk in powder oven for awhile, so the spouse had to convince me that we really didn't need a candy apple red washing machine.

My toaster oven is the largest non-digital model  that I could find.  Probably 1.5 to 2 CF.  For customizations, I just used some high temp tape on and around the glass door to help even out the temperature. I don't use the built in thermostat, since I already have a portable PID controller that I had built for some other projects.  The PID controller controls the flow of electricity to the oven and has a mode where it learns how to maintain a more steady temperature in addition to being more accurate.  In your case, just using an oven thermometer for awhile to learn how hot the oven actually  is at a given setting will probably be plenty close. 

The ideal small portable setup is an old scientific lab oven and a PID controller.  Fixer-uppers show up on the auction sites for pretty short money from time to time.  I have been tempted.  If you have the space and the time, and old electric kitchen  oven would be pretty cool to have.

Keep us posted.  You are making good progress, and I hope to learn from your experiences.

-J

The air knob on the gun is a barrel valve .  I use a flow regulator and a short 4 foot 1/4 hose to the gun .  Shooting in the neighborhood of 10 -13 pounds .

Back ionization seems to be the problem , and a few people suggested to wash and reheat the part to shed the ionization .  Or just hot flock it .  Sometimes I think that I maybe stepping on the peddle too soon and creating a ioni field ,or too long after releasing the trigger .    I will be more mind full the next time I shoot .  The ground rod is sunk , so I will try that also next time and see if that helps .    I do use a I R temp gun to check heat , My oven runs hot by 70 degrees .

      I made a few mods to my blast cabinet today ,one being to fasten down the pick up tube to the bottom of the cabinet ,so it would not float to the top .    I also removed that little air filter in the cabinet that would clog every 3 minutes and you could not see what you are doing inside .    I have bubble bucket now to clean and catch the cloud .  What a game changer .
  This sucks so well that the gloves are fully open in the cabinet , that your hands slide right in .

 Ground rod helped a little , felt like I got more wrap around when shooting parts .
Also this pvc pipe fitting help for the tight places .

 My next thing I want to try is a Corona ring on the gun and see what that may do to help .

    Shot 3 more reels 330 Candy green metallic Candy blue metallic and a gloss red .

     I finally dawned on me that I can flip the toaster on it`s side for the body castings with on banging up the part   

Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 23, 2025, 09:56:42 PMGround rod helped a little , felt like I got more wrap around when shooting parts .
Also this pvc pipe fitting help for the tight places .

 My next thing I want to try is a Corona ring on the gun and see what that may do to help .

    Shot 3 more reels 330 Candy green metallic Candy blue metallic and a gloss red .

     I finally dawned on me that I can flip the toaster on it`s side for the body castings with on banging up the part   

Parts keep looking better and better!

Interesting that a dedicated ground helped a little.  Wraparound should be mostly a function of getting a nice light misty cloud or powder coming out of the gun.  If I am not blowing too much powder at too high of a pressure, I always get a good wrap.

Talking off the corona ring should be the last resort- it is trickier to get a good cloud without overspray.  Also that metal tip needs to be kept clean. 

IMHO, as long as you are getting anything more than a dusting of leftover in your spray booth, there is something that needs to be fixed.

As to putting the oven on its side- some folk do that, but there is an issue. On almost all toaster ovens, the thermostat is built into the temperature control dial, and is controlling the oven cavity temperature by responding to the temperature in the pocket behind the controls.  Something like if the temperature in the pocket is 150F then the oven is 350F (I'm making up the numbers, but you get the idea).  Putting the oven on the side changes this ratio, especially if there are vents on the side that are now facing down, or blocked by the table top.

Safety wise, I have no idea if it is a good idea or not, but it will probably cause the cavity temp to be off and drift more.

-J

:) I want to add a Corona ring to try .    I was shooting low pressure and had better coverage with less blow by .  Did notice these funny looking stars in the spray booth box on the walls .Static?

     Had one rotor casting with saltwater pitting that I wanted to fill with JB weld .  I could not squeeze any more out of the tubes .  SO I tried some  Harbor Freight knock off that I had laying to try . It doesn't specify any heat range on the package . After filling and 12 hours later ,I did sand it out ,and it was too easy sanding not as hard as J B . " Picture is before sanding "  So I tried it with powder coat and no it was not in the range of full cure of 24 hours  . It looks like it out gassed and rosed a little .    The spool is one that I spun and was just starting to get a little pity looking .

Sweet!

From what I was taught, most paste epoxy high temp fillers like JB Weld don't work too well for powder coating.  They don't hold the electric charge, often outgas, and can shrink from heating.  It is sort of like trying to powder-coat a part that is partly plastic.

I have read that you might get away with JB Weld to fill smaller pits id you give the filler a very long time to dry, but I haven't tried this. 

A compatible filler that is mentioned often is Alvin Lab-Metal.  I think it has some metal powder in it so it will take a charge.  It also has a lot of MEK and toluene in it, so it is pretty nasty stuff.  Plus it cost  around $50 for the smallest can.  I never tried this stuff either. I just didn't try to coat anything that I couldn't blast down to a uniform surface.

-J

Joe,I have to ask how many DQ reels do you have they are abundant!

 Somewhere around 125 -145 .

Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 24, 2025, 02:26:29 PMSomewhere around 125 -145 .

Careful Joe, El Dorado is listening.

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on November 24, 2025, 03:30:18 PM

Quote from: oldmanjoe on November 24, 2025, 02:26:29 PMSomewhere around 125 -145 .

Careful Joe, El Dorado is listening.

Once He learns how to shop ,the question will be were did all come from ?

 Today was spool day .  Had 3 raw spools that started pitting ,so sand blasted them and some 270 spools and miscellaneous parts .

Quote from: jurelometer on November 24, 2025, 06:02:39 AMA compatible filler that is mentioned often is Alvin Lab-Metal.  I think it has some metal powder in it so it will take a charge.

"Back in the Day" one of my mentors had a young me filing down nails and then mixing the powder into JB Weld to in his words "Make a stronger, workable repair."  Did it?  Beat's me - Scientific Method did not exist in my mind back then.  But I can see how it might be useful in this instance - in my case it was a cracked partially broken bolt boss on an engine intake manifold (worked, BTW and for all I know lasted the life of the vehicle) but with reels being relatively low stress you are not really worried about strength, but it may introduce enough metal to allow for powdercoating to become more effective on such a repair.  There was an automotive body filler marketed years ago as an alternative to Bondo that was also a two-part mix but also incorporated a metal powder to add to the mix, but I never used it (too pricey for the junk I was working on) and don't know if it still exists here 45 years later.
This powder coating thread is fascinating and I love seeing all the true talent in the members.  It also has me realizing that this is probably NOT a rabbit hole I should go down, and just rely on folks waaaay smarter than me if I ever am in need. - john

 :)  Yes it is a rabbit hole , and one I tried to avoid for years . It was to easy to pick up a rattle can and be done .   I was think about the iron filings  that were piled up under the brake lathes to mix in with epoxy to conduct powder coating .   Now I have all the time in the world to play with ideas ,what will work and what does not or plan B .   

Quote from: Brewcrafter on November 24, 2025, 10:15:16 PM

Quote from: jurelometer on November 24, 2025, 06:02:39 AMA compatible filler that is mentioned often is Alvin Lab-Metal.  I think it has some metal powder in it so it will take a charge.

"Back in the Day" one of my mentors had a young me filing down nails and then mixing the powder into JB Weld to in his words "Make a stronger, workable repair."  Did it?  Beat's me - Scientific Method did not exist in my mind back then.  But I can see how it might be useful in this instance - in my case it was a cracked partially broken bolt boss on an engine intake manifold (worked, BTW and for all I know lasted the life of the vehicle) but with reels being relatively low stress you are not really worried about strength, but it may introduce enough metal to allow for powdercoating to become more effective on such a repair.  There was an automotive body filler marketed years ago as an alternative to Bondo that was also a two-part mix but also incorporated a metal powder to add to the mix, but I never used it (too pricey for the junk I was working on) and don't know if it still exists here 45 years later.
This powder coating thread is fascinating and I love seeing all the true talent in the members.  It also has me realizing that this is probably NOT a rabbit hole I should go down, and just rely on folks waaaay smarter than me if I ever am in need. - john

Uhhh... he was not using the aspects of steel that make it strong. Embedding another material into plastic will change the properties, but you have to know what you are doing.  You can mix  elastomers in to make it more flexible, or add strands of stiff fibers to make it stiffer.  Both of these are very common.  But I don't see how grinding down nails is going to do anything useful structurally.  They sell plastics with metal powder imbedded, but this is for cosmetic  effect - the end product sorta looks like metal, and something like  iron powder filler will actually rust and make a patina. Used for decorative parts, because it is not very strong.

In our case, we have to worry about different coefficients of thermal expansion between the paste epoxy and the metal filings.  It probably has a greater chance of structurally failing (e.g., cracking) when you bake it at 400F.

Plus, none of this addresses outgassing and shrinking of the JB Weld from the oven.  But Lab-Metal and the solvent you need to keep it usable are a bit toxic to work with and expensive.  It will be interesting  to see if Joe comes up with a JB weld hack that works well enough for smaller amounts of pitting.

-J

I've always wondered how adding graphite powder to epoxy resin can increase tensile strength and rigidity.  Since there are no reinforcing fibers it seems like the graphite/epoxy mix can only be as strong as the epoxy holding the graphite particles together.  But, boat builders swear by it.

Quote from: oc1 on November 26, 2025, 05:01:26 AMI've always wondered how adding graphite powder to epoxy resin can increase tensile strength and rigidity.  Since there are no reinforcing fibers it seems like the graphite/epoxy mix can only be as strong as the epoxy holding the graphite particles together.  But, boat builders swear by it.

This is a different case. I don't think the purpose of these type of resin additives is to strengthen the resin in a standalone situation.  It is to strengthen glass or carbon fiber and resin composite. The composite strength relies on the strength of the bond between the resin and the carbon or glass fibers.  When we look a a broken boat hull or fishing rod, we can see those strands of loose fibers, especially  with carbon fiber construction. I don't know how it works, but the purpose of these high tech "nano-particles" is to improve the bond. 

There is also standalone "graphite"/carbon and plastic blends.  Our "graphite" reel seats, frames and sideplates are an example(nylon/carbon fiber).  A bit of housekeeping: graphite and carbon fiber are terms used interchangeably when they  market products made from carbon fiber.

The added carbon fiber can be anything from nearly powder all the way up to great big chunks (see forged carbon fiber).

For our current topic- graphite/carbon is a conductor of electricity.  Don't know if it would be useful for powder coating as an additive to an epoxy filler.  Seems like a long shot for the reasons mentioned earlier. 

-J

Joe, The regular (long cure) JB weld can handle up to 500f. I've also seen a youtube video that showed it's magnetic and conductive, but I haven't tested that yet.

The quick cure JB is crap and I wouldn't trust it for anything. Not for high heat applications either.

*edit* I just checked some cured high strength JB Weld and it does attract a magnet. The MSD says 5-10% iron. I also tested with a multimeter and it's not conductive.

I have read about making conductive rubber,I forget all the details,but it triggered me thinking about red high temp rtv,if you could infuse it with
Graphite to be conductive & how conductive must the material be to powdercoat?

Ideally, it should  have the same conductivity as the surrounding metal that you are coating, so that the coat will have uniform thickness.  I doubt the powder would stick to rubber well, plus there's there problem of the rubber flexing. The cured coating would have to have a comp compatible amount of flexibility.

And conductivity is just one problem, you have to deal with without outgassing and expansion/shrinking as well.


Interesting that JB Weld has steel powder in it.  I wonder what the value is.  Maybe it helps hold it together when you machine it. You can't drill and tap normal paste epoxy.

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on November 26, 2025, 05:57:18 PM

Quote from: oc1 on November 26, 2025, 05:01:26 AMI've always wondered how adding graphite powder to epoxy resin can increase tensile strength and rigidity.  Since there are no reinforcing fibers it seems like the graphite/epoxy mix can only be as strong as the epoxy holding the graphite particles together.  But, boat builders swear by it.

This is a different case. I don't think the purpose of these type of resin additives is to strengthen the resin in a standalone situation. 

Plywood boat builders use it like an armor coating applied after the layer(s) of composite material has dried.

What if you applied your JB weld or whatever you use, and bake it in advance to deal with outgassing etc and then do your powder coating after it cools?

Quote from: oc1 on November 28, 2025, 06:13:18 PM

Quote from: jurelometer on November 26, 2025, 05:57:18 PM

Quote from: oc1 on November 26, 2025, 05:01:26 AMI've always wondered how adding graphite powder to epoxy resin can increase tensile strength and rigidity.  Since there are no reinforcing fibers it seems like the graphite/epoxy mix can only be as strong as the epoxy holding the graphite particles together.  But, boat builders swear by it.

This is a different case. I don't think the purpose of these type of resin additives is to strengthen the resin in a standalone situation. 

Plywood boat builders use it like an armor coating applied after the layer(s) of composite material has dried.

According to West Systems, aluminum powder is used to make a bit harder coat, which also helps to make it more water resistant.  It is also good to remember that harder doesn't mean stronger, it usually means more scratch resistant, but also more brittle. 

Graphite powder is used to decrease friction on surfaces like rudders, but I could see it also being used along the bottom if you drag your skiff up a beach. The graphite in the epoxy is sacrificial, as the exposed graphite is relatively soft and will get worn away. Looking at what the boatbuilders have to say, it looks like the epoxy/graphite blend is not as tough as the standalone epoxy, and occasional sanding can be used to expose fresh graphite.

https://www.westsystem.com/products/420-aluminum-powder/ (https://www.westsystem.com/products/420-aluminum-powder/)

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on November 28, 2025, 06:17:37 PMWhat if you applied your JB weld or whatever you use, and bake it in advance to deal with outgassing etc and then do your powder coating after it cools?

Maybe.  Or maybe not.  The more you bake it, the more it degrades- which could increase outgassing.  It is rated  up to 500F, so maybe it won't degrade too fast.  We don't know what it is outgassing.  It might be worth a shot.

The stuff that is made for compatibility with powder coating  (Lab-Metal) has a lot of very nasty VOC solvent in it which is going to exit the paste (and enter through your skin) quite quickly.  A different (and presumably better- or they wouldn't be doing it) way to reach the required viscosity during application.

Also, there are lots of interesting surface finishes, not just wrinkle. Veins, rivers, or stuff that looks like a brick, an old bronze statue, or wrought iron.  The most aggressive finishes will hide just about anything- for example this gold vein.  It might be an interesting finish on the right piece. I would like to do a big International with this finish - it would definitely confuse the Penn fanboys :)

(https://alantani.com/gallery/39/39826-6947-grecian-gold-vein.jpeg)

I used a much milder matte that is supposed to look a bit like a used steel tool surface on this 722. It still hid a couple smaller finish imperfections.

(https://alantani.com/gallery/37/11927-010922192542.jpeg)

These might be an option to hide any imperfections on a part that needed a lot of patching.

It might be worth applying an epoxy powder primer as a first coat as well.  Primer helps the paint stick better to the substrate, and provides a uniform base coloration, so you are less likely to see a color change around the patches.  I have been playing with epoxy primers for about a year now, so I don't know how much they help with durability, but they do go down pretty easy, and are recommended for high corrosion environments.

-J 

Let me play catch up .  From J B weld site .
https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-professional-size

   A better read on J B .  https://artizono.com/is-jb-weld-magnetic-understanding-its-properties-conductivity-and-uses/

Can it be powder coated .  https://www.powdercoatingforum.net/forum/powder-coating/292-j-b-weld-anyone

  I do have a rotor cut that is cured for 3 years , so that one is next .  I will try sanding it a little more to get the pin hole out .

I do have some aluminum plates that lived in saltwater to experiment with  .

      Primers is something I will try , at first I was a little concerned about getting to thick with 4 layers of powder , primer ,base coat candy coat and clear coat .
     But this can help in certain situation to cut down the gap in cases .

 https://www.eastwood.com/garage/6-reasons-you-may-need-to-use-primer-when-powder-coating/?wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju2hWYf7vmyFe806MYDJyzg6aKKJ8IRAK0tfcBAn9_AfciWAASeBJmBoC4x4QAvD_BwE&wickedid=606086287133&wcid=17570997070&wv=4&wickedsource=google&wickedid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju2hWYf7vmyFe806MYDJyzg6aKKJ8IRAK0tfcBAn9_AfciWAASeBJmBoC4x4QAvD_BwE&creativeid=606086287133&wcid=17570997070&wv=4&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17570997070&gbraid=0AAAAAD_t6zGgUHJTy26NTgs5o9oeE4ljn&gclid=CjwKCAiA86_JBhAIEiwA4i9Ju2hWYf7vmyFe806MYDJyzg6aKKJ8IRAK0tfcBAn9_AfciWAASeBJmBoC4x4QAvD_BwE

https://www.columbiacoatings.com/understanding-powder-coating-primers-and-their-applications/?srsltid=AfmBOopyg-4CMP3oXzDsJTFZKCv6FcjJydwoYrGeOwGEL_PYq8rtRcXL

This might sound disgusting, I found that JB Weld can be smoothed if you wait 20-30 minutes when the outside skin starts to set, then you can smooth it out and reform it to better fit the repair.

The disgusting part is, it requires spit. Spit on a finger and use that finger to firmly work and smooth out the JB-Weld. It will remove any high spots and pin holes and negate the need for much touch-up work later.

Quote from: jtwill98 on November 30, 2025, 04:32:07 PMThis might sound disgusting, I found that JB Weld can be smoothed if you wait 20-30 minutes when the outside skin starts to set, then you can smooth it out and reform it to better fit the repair.

The disgusting part is, it requires spit. Spit on a finger and use that finger to firmly work and smooth out the JB-Weld. It will remove any high spots and pin holes and negate the need for much touch-up work later.

Yes that does work . I usually wait about 90 minutes , then start working it . Spit , thumb and razor blade .

Quote from: jtwill98 on November 30, 2025, 04:32:07 PMThis might sound disgusting, I found that JB Weld can be smoothed if you wait 20-30 minutes when the outside skin starts to set, then you can smooth it out and reform it to better fit the repair.

The disgusting part is, it requires spit. Spit on a finger and use that finger to firmly work and smooth out the JB-Weld. It will remove any high spots and pin holes and negate the need for much touch-up work later.

Heck, that's been standard procedure when using the JB Weld rotted wood restoration kit ever since it was first introduced. They also suggest spray misting water over the surface prior to smoothing with a plastic putty knife. I figured out that little trick years ago when using Elmer's wood restorer prior to JB's takeover/release.

Quote from: Midway Tommy on November 30, 2025, 05:44:46 PM

Quote from: jtwill98 on November 30, 2025, 04:32:07 PMThis might sound disgusting, I found that JB Weld can be smoothed if you wait 20-30 minutes when the outside skin starts to set, then you can smooth it out and reform it to better fit the repair.

The disgusting part is, it requires spit. Spit on a finger and use that finger to firmly work and smooth out the JB-Weld. It will remove any high spots and pin holes and negate the need for much touch-up work later.

Heck, that's been standard procedure when using the JB Weld rotted wood restoration kit ever since it was first introduced. They also suggest spray misting water over the surface prior to smoothing with a plastic putty knife. I figured out that little trick years ago when using Elmer's wood restorer prior to JB's takeover/release.

Or the Minwax filler , that was auto body filler !

If I remember correctly Minwax was the first one to come out with the wood hardener/epoxy restoration kit, and then Elmer's came out with there's a few years later. I never cared much for the  Minwax product but I really liked, and had super good luck, with the Elmer's kit. Then came the Wuhan Virus and Elmer's seemed to disappear from the shelves. Enough with sidetracking your powder paint discussion, though, Joe.

I use spit for smoothing JB, but I also use rubbing alcohol. I feel like I get better results with alcohol. The alcohol works great when sculpting epoxy putties. Helps the tools to glide over the putty better.

    The vevor gun came in today , it has 5 different settings 3o-50 kv .   I used it as it came out of the box .     The one hole atomizer made me tap , tap ,shake the gun to keep powder moving ,and I had to bump up the air pressure  to get the powder to atomize .   That will be modified with may be 4 holes this time .     
    I do have a pressure regulator to put on the gun , but waiting for a 1-15 pound air gage to replace 0-200 pound gage .

  Shot some new wrenches to put on the boat with white powder from harbor freight , 15-20 minute cook time .    Well 20 minutes is to long and in the oven on it`s side , the temperature  was 400 at the bottom and 480 plus at the top .  Burned the paint .

     Have some good primer coming , so I will wait before I shoot some reels .

      (https://alantani.com/gallery/39/39842-8695-tenor12.gif)

    I have been watching a few U tubes from the powder Manufacturers and the Pro `s ,and a common problem  is keeping Metallics in a fluidized state so the flakes don`t settle down .

   So I made 2 atomizers to try out .   First one is 4 holes jet down to the bottom of the cup instead of one shooting across 3/8 from the bottom .   The second one is pretty much the same ,but with 5 hole drill in the sides at a angle to create a vortex in the cup.

  Today I found a piece of scrap aluminum and made a corona ring to try out .
    My new oven came in today , Needs a little work !!    And I did blast a few casting .


     

Joe
Thanks for the tour last week.
I dumpster dove some 1/32" thick teflon for you today at work. That will probably be much better for under spool washers than the 1/8 I left with you last week.
I will keep an eye out for 1/16 as well.
This painting post is awesome. Looking forward to seeing more.
-Steve

Quote from: sandbar on December 09, 2025, 09:29:34 PMJoe
Thanks for the tour last week.
I dumpster dove some 1/32" thick teflon for you today at work. That will probably be much better for under spool washers than the 1/8 I left with you last week.
I will keep an eye out for 1/16 as well.
This painting post is awesome. Looking forward to seeing more.
-Steve

It was nice to finally meet You .  Next time I will give you the full 10 cent tour .  I am all for dumpster diving ..   One man`s junk is another man`s treasure !!

Still waiting on some parts for the oven , to use as a electric oven .  I have been using it with propane to out gas castings  . 
I did cook up some Ka -chow today, this has a lot of shine /glitter .  This is without a clear coat which makes it pop more .

The post and results show that you are really in to it and are thoroughly enjoying the powder coat process.

Be careful not to let it turn into a job and keep it your hobby.

I hate to see you lose the enjoyment aspect.

Great work!  :d

  No job here !!    Just small oven size projects ..

They came out looking really nice when decorated with their emblems and all assembled.

  Well I had a turn of events on Friday !  I was working in driveway on the smoker to use as a electric oven  .   Pid kit in hand ready to assembly .

  My buddy John is walking up the driveway  Hey Oldman , Can you help me for a hour ,I need to change out a wall oven .   :)  :)  :)   Sure can !!

 A combo microwave and electric oven . Keypad is not working and parts of the display are out .
 
  I split the micro from the oven and started rewiring it for a pid controller .   Slip it in under the blast cabinet .   Master switch ,light and 2 speed fan switches .   

getting back to smoothing JB weld, how would a small drill bit in a portable drill, with a fine steel wool rapt around the drill bit work. cheers Don.

Quote from: Donnyboat on December 15, 2025, 10:38:17 PMgetting back to smoothing JB weld, how would a small drill bit in a portable drill, with a fine steel wool rapt around the drill bit work. cheers Don.

I don`t think you will get the steel wool to cut the j b weld .  Files , rotary tools and lots of sanding .

Quote from: jtwill98 on December 12, 2025, 03:14:57 AMThey came out looking really nice when decorated with their emblems and all assembled.

If this is what you are looking for , is your`s  ...   I did not save the other plastic parts other that the dish drive and motor.

  My 4 year old paint job did not last long on the 3000!!   So I stripped it and powdered it .   Along with another n model.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on December 16, 2025, 05:19:03 PMIf this is what you are looking for , is your`s  ...  I did not save the other plastic parts other that the dish drive and motor.

Thanks for replying to my PM and posting the image. I appreciate the offer and I don't want to hijack your powder coating thread, thus the PM.

I was mainly wondering how painful it was to remove the old oven.  It looks relatively easy and mainly I was wondering how heavy was it? Can it be done by one person or is it a two-person job?

My wife wants me to replace the oven and here's her reasons.

1) It's nearly 20 years old.

2) A couple of years back, the paint was peeling from the Microwave oven on the inside top. I scraped off the loose paint, sanded and feathered the intact painted edges and used some microwave rated (at least that was the claim) enameled paint to repaint the inside top. That paint produced nasty fumes. It's been fine ever since except for #3.

3) One day the door release protruded above the front panel on the right. In the attached picture you can see my hack to keep the door release flush to the panel. I'm sure the door stop in the back broke off and I didn't want to remove the oven to properly fix it.  It's just a temporary fix and she's not happy with the hack.

I probably need to replace it or I will continually have to listen to her complaints.  A tough call, $2500, ignore her or pull the oven out and make the correct fix.  ::)   

:)  :)  I don't mind hijacks , always some to learn from them.
  The first two  picture is the button pushed in , so the hook are up in the air .  Last picture is when it is down .    I believe your hooks are broken and your fix is working .

It is a two person job to remove a combo because of bulky weight about 125 pounds .

I believe you can change this door release from the front without pulling the oven out , or a little than half way .    The trick is getting the back hinge pin unlatched from one side , than it should wiggle out with a twist .

 I just added from your pm , because you did reminded me that with the door open you will see two torx head screws , remove them than the panel will swing and lift up , back has 3 hooks in slots .

 I have not found a u tube for this model yet !

Thank you kindly for showing me the pictures. 

I think I can do this and keep the Mrs. happy or sad depending on how she feels about the money versus having a new combo oven.

 Finally got around to assemble a Marbled White ,Black and green candy  220n reel with red handle .

I'm guessing that gorgeous handle is a powdercoat? - john

 Yes it is powder coated .  Trying to clean up the pimple face casted /chrome handles .

  I found out that you have to watch these when outgassing  , they will spread out under heat !!

Quote from: oldmanjoe on December 16, 2025, 07:21:44 PMI believe you can change this door release from the front without pulling the oven out , or a little than half way .    The trick is getting the back hinge pin unlatched from one side , than it should wiggle out with a twist .

Joe, thank you very much for the part and the pictures. I was able to replace the part, remove my hack and polished the surface with tooth pastes and a rotary tool. 

Your suggested trick of getting the back hinge pin was dead on and made the job very simple. 

I have some cleanup and polishing to do with glass polish tomorrow, but looking better, already. 

Again, thank you sir!     

 :)  Happy for the outcome !!

 I have a stick that had broken single foot guides , and wanted to try powder coated guides .
    Kind of interesting on how well it will perform with braid and mono.

   Photos of the last bunch of reels

Wow! You're getting good at that stuff.  Nice work.  Dominick

Quote from: Dominick on January 19, 2026, 01:09:50 AMWow! You're getting good at that stuff.  Nice work.  Dominick

:D   I practice real good , to get better ..

A coulp more done today .  Candy purple metallic.

Getting better and better! Enjoying watching your progress.

Did the DIY corona thingy help much?

-J

AT times ,yes it does help .   I don`t shoot with it all the time , I put it on when I have problems shooting the second and third coats . 
 
    One of the observations I had yesterday shooting the second coat was power not sticking .
I am shooting into a plastic tupperware box and it was holding a lot of static charge . I do have a good ground rod that I clamp to the box and the metal stand to knock it down . Yet yesterday when I touched the box , I felt the charge .

Slipped the Corona ring on and had better results . I am still playing with where to place it on the barrel .   One inch from the tip and it does collect a lot of powder .   It also helps with back ionization spots that I see when shooting to close trying to overcome the corners that won't take powder .

 At times I just blow off the powder , stick it back in the oven , it is supposed to know down static charge in the parts and try again .   Still learning and experimenting .

Quote from: jurelometer on January 23, 2026, 05:55:20 PMGetting better and better! Enjoying watching your progress.

Did the DIY corona thingy help much?

-J

One thing that I wanted to see is if the corona ring would help steal some Micro amps from the cloud .
      For example the vevor gun has the switch for 30 35 40 45 and 50 kilovolts .  No way to change micro amps  .     I did get from the engineers what the values of the micro amp were at each setting .

30 kv = 99 micro amps  35 = 92  40 =83  45 =70  50 =50 micro amps .  Those numbers are kind of high for re-coatings according to what the better guns do .
     Thoughts from anybody electrically minded .

Keith's 304,thank you Joe !

I think this reel will last forever now


:fish

       From this pile of reels to this . Two are done in gloss red and the other two done with candy red metallic with no base coat , just raw aluminum casting .

Looking good Joe!  The surface finish looks pretty clean and defect free on this batch.


On coating guides:  polyester/urethane coating is flexible (good) but not very hard (bad). Anywhere there is line rubbing, it is going to wear right through.  Lump buildup at the end of the foot is going to make wrapping more difficult.  Anywhere that the coating is cut into or removed creates a potential entry point for corrosion to travel under the coating, which is very destructive due to the lack of oxygen exposure.  This one seems a bit risky to me.



I was also curious how you got that snakeskin like finish on those red reels from a a couple posts back.

-J

 I did the old school lace technique , shoot through a produce sack .   The marble is dab off with saran wrap bunched up .
     I wanted to try it for a Spiderman effect for my Nephew , I built a stick for the same theme

Finish it yet?

Man OMJ, you are a COMLPETE reel dude. Clean/rebuild, repair, part-fabrication/modification and the "la touché finale"- painting.

Good work Joe, and thanks for sharing, cheers Don.

Quote from: Gfish on February 19, 2026, 09:23:26 PMFinish it yet?

Man OMJ, you are a COMLPETE reel dude. Clean/rebuild, repair, part-fabrication/modification and the "la touché finale"- painting.

Nope  I just pulled these out of the oven .    I just recieved 9 more colors to shoot .  I will get better pictures when the sun is out .  Trying out some Chameleon color shift powders .

How many "DAM" reels you got Joe! The color shifting paint is AKA "flip flop" in some car groups

It justifies my collection ::)

Black Aurora     This is a dark, high gloss coating with a heavy
amount of vibrant, color-shifting metallic flakes.
These intense color shifting flakes change
between green, pink, purple, orange, and light red colors

Candy man  This is a high gloss clear coating with a heavy
amount of extra-large, multi-color "confetti" like
metallic flakes. These extra-large flakes have a
chameleon/color shift effect and change colors
between green, teal, blue, purple, red, bronze,
orange, gold, and yellow.

 ::) I don`t know any more they just keep multiplying ,when you leave them in a cardboard box !!

Assembled and daylight pictures of 330 ,331N  and another 330 .  The flops are crazy , they change colors at different angles .

That looks good I don't care who you are! My favorite of all of them so far

Cosmic

There's a need out there for a guy with your mad skills Joe; side-plate emblems.

I like that Black Aurora—-subtly stock till light hits just right.

Quote from: Gfish on February 20, 2026, 07:01:34 PMThere's a need out there for a guy with your mad skills Joe; side-plate emblems.

With good photocopiers they could be made , even decals could be made .  The embossed emblems would take some time .  Possibly aluminum foil rubbed over a existing emblem than painted ? 

 These just came out of the oven .                  Galactic clear .  This is a high gloss clear coat with a heavy amount of intense, rainbow color shifting metallic flakes. This rainbow effect is most vibrant in the sunlight, but it also pops in low-light environments.

I will assemble them later tonight .   Washing the innereds now !

Joe - You have a gift; I really like seeing what is coming off of your bench (or rather, out of your ovens!) - john

 I am trying different led light mode , Some pictures look like orange peel , I guess it's the flakes making it look open .  They are slick as a onion !!

I cant sleep just got up,so when do you sleep Joe ^-^

 ???    Sleep 4 hours if I am tired , but most of my adult life were 20 hour plus days !

(https://alantani.com/gallery/39/39925-7358-scoob.gif)

There was a pile up on the kitchen table .    I just need to figure out how I can make this into a table centerpiece

(https://alantani.com/gallery/39/17471-280325022309-39549378.gif)

 This is todays cookings .  220 in gold metallic and 440 gold metallic with a light coat of candy man for the rainbow flakes .

They are having babies,when is the Chrome edition coming out :d

Joe I may need to send you some parts for coating.

The folks near you on the boat are gonna need sunglasses.

Quote from: jgp12000 on February 25, 2026, 10:16:07 AMThey are having babies,when is the Chrome edition coming out :d

Man I hate chrome , It demands to be constantly cleaned and polished !   
I am going to separate those two , They are as bad as mice and rabbits . 

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on February 25, 2026, 12:14:15 PMJoe I may need to send you some parts for coating.

The folks near you on the boat are gonna need sunglasses.

Bring them with you On Friday , if the weather holds up !!

  No Lighting rod is complete without  a flux capacitor attached to it to store energy . 

Quote from: jgp12000 on February 25, 2026, 10:16:07 AMThey are having babies,when is the Chrome edition coming out :d

There are "chrome" powders.  Any imperfection or orange peeling really stands out, so you have to be on the top of your game, but the better ones come out really nice until you put a clear coat over them to protect from UV damage.  The clear coat ends up making it look more like silver paint. 

You might get away with skipping the clear coat if the reel is a shelf queen, not intended to be fished.

There have been a few iterations of improved chrome powders, so maybe the latest stuff is better. 

Nowadays, I only use chrome powders as an undercoat for the tinted clear candy powders.  If you want some bling, clear candies can be just the ticket.


From an old thread of mine:  Here is a part coated with a "light chrome" color (looks like polished aluminum), and then top coated with a clear candy apple red powder.

(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-22iYidIbBi8/UuhiKlWq12I/AAAAAAAAAjA/h_nNFU-6Ilg/s800/reel-11-foot-c.jpg)

(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O4ngV-MR0So/UuhiKMNvuSI/AAAAAAAAAi0/O9Is5pz6Z2k/s800/reel-11-foot.jpg)

Enjoying watching Joe's progress.  Please keep the photos coming.  I am learning stuff!

-J

    As of now ,I have one pound of Ultimate chrome from "the powder coat store " to burn up .
     It does look good raw , and so far it has been base coats for the candies .
 
  I should try a test with clear on top to see how it looks .

   To days reel is a 550N .

That came out nice. I bet I know what rod that's headed to

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on February 26, 2026, 11:40:45 AMThat came out nice. I bet I know what rod that's headed to

I not sure yet , there are 3 sticks that I like to try it on . I will know by tomorrow night 

Today's cookings     Flippin Phoenix  And Bourbon Street

Four more 330 `s shot with Flippin Phoenix

Joe these Flippin Phoenix  And Bourbon Street are my favorite of all! So have you ran out of reels to paint yet?

Now I know where all the other DQ reels Fred doesn't have are  ::)

I love the Golden 220 & 440.

 Shot this one today , 270-30  and another 440 .  It does help  to click on the pictures , but they do look a lot better in person .  To me the pictures look like dust specks on them !

Joe you've painted so many DQs I'm beginning to wonder
1. How many you have left
2. If you're redoing some multiple times. 

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 04, 2026, 12:05:24 PMJoe you've painted so many DQs I'm beginning to wonder
1. How many you have left
2. If you're redoing some multiple times. 

I have whole bunches of bunches left ,but they all have good clothes , comb hair and brushed teeth .
    No redos yet !! These are the orphans that I have been finding .   

That's the problem I'm running into. Most my metal stuff is in good shape. Knock on wood.

Have you torture tested any of them yet?

 :)   Yes I have torture tested Powder coating .   I know it does not come off with sandblasting ,and you will work hard to wire wheel it off also .    When I slip with a knife it does not scratch .

    Ten times stronger than paint .    The hardest paint to sandblast is the Mitchel 302 , That was the best paint put on any reel .

Joe now that you have it down to a science how long does it take you start to finish one reel?

Quote from: jgp12000 on March 06, 2026, 06:53:07 PMJoe now that you have it down to a science how long does it take you start to finish one reel?

About 3 hours , but that is not steady work .
  Example     3-4 minutes to strip a reel .   Than I soak the casting in gas to loosen the paint .
    This varies in time , some paints wash off in 10 minutes some will take a hour .   At this time the internal parts are in the Ultrasonic cleaner .

 Sandblasting 10-15 minutes per reel ,the nooks and crannies take most of the time .                          A little knife work for the stubborn parts . I check the casting and may cut/polish the parting lines . A quick wash and into the oven for a little out gassing  .That is about 15 -20 minutes .

  Oven outgassing about a hour and a half , heat , cook and cool down  .   Wire , tape and plug the casting is about 15 minutes  . Two minutes to shoot powder  .   Back in the oven heat ,cook and cool about 30 minutes .  Clean the casting -untapping and polish the bushing and bearing housing ,reassemble reel   

Kudos to you Joe. I can tell you are a skilled perfectionist. Those custom Dam Quick reels are absolutely magnificent !!!

Quote from: Maxed Out on March 07, 2026, 02:29:34 AMKudos to you Joe. I can tell you are a skilled perfectionist. Those custom Dam Quick reels are absolutely magnificent !!!

Thank You for the kind words .

Today was a slow day ,only one 550 cooked

Very nice Joe.  It occurs to me that you could make a pink unicorn reel.... if you wanted to, I mean.

Quote from: oc1 on March 10, 2026, 05:01:37 AMVery nice Joe.  It occurs to me that you could make a pink unicorn reel.... if you wanted to, I mean.

;)   I have 7 well 6 one of kind Dam Unicorns , not quite pink .

2  441 Finessas   270-330   270-440   275-330  221 N and a 330 with a one way bearing .

I should have known. I misspoke though.  It was a purple unicorn.

I suspected that's where this was going.

Interesting idea. Gotta find the right candidate reel.

Trying out the Burgundy powder .  330 and 270-440

Trying out another color Joker Jewel on a Modified 440

Joker Jewel
This is a smooth, high gloss clear coat with a heavy amount of vibrant, color-shifting metallic flakes. These intense color shifting flakes change between green, pink, purple, orange, and light-red colors.

 

Shot Joker Jewel on a 275-330 today . This color is hard to put in pictures , it looks green most of the time .
 Out of the oven it showed more purple , as it cooled it when more green . At different angles the colors appear.

Sharp reel, Joe!

Best, Fred

Matching line too is over the top! what's left to do.

At the end of Tom Brady's career & 7 Super Bowls "Now What"?

Quote from: jgp12000 on March 15, 2026, 12:00:37 PMMatching line too is over the top! what's left to do.

At the end of Tom Brady's career & 7 Super Bowls "Now What"?

I want to perfect the detail work , turn powder into liquid and paint the detail lines and bake it .
     The badges would really pop !!

Quote from: foakes on March 15, 2026, 12:51:36 AMSharp reel, Joe!

Best, Fred

How close are you to start cooking ?   I do realize that you have newer factory painted parts , and hard to justifie stripping paint .

QuoteI want to perfect the detail work , turn powder into liquid and paint the detail lines and bake it .
    The badges would really pop !

I have messed with the Columbia liquid product.  You blend in the powder and paint with a brush.  It doesn't turn into something like the liquid paint that we are used to, more like powder suspended in a solution.  I found it hard to work with and not very satisfying.

One technique that sort of worked for me is to brush  on just the unblended liquid and the to spray the powder over it while the liquid is still wet.  I used one of the mini sandblaster style airbrushes to apply powder.

The powder will mostly just stick to spots where the liquid was applied.


-J

I will try the Columbia liquid powder solution , the next time I order Powder .

  I am using Acetone to make liquid  now .  So far I like it  .  I can paint with a brush and let dry and do clean ups when I go to wide or outside the lines !!

  Another tool is a powder buff

Ok I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.
[/quote
Yes you can pile it on , than spread it out .   But it hard to get it even coated . even a paint brush will have a small static charge and makes it hard to get clean lines .

Pressurized air maybe? Isn't the metal electrically charged when you spray it on? So won't some stick either way?

I guess I'm picturing the way I did my son's thor hammer where I put on thinned 5 min epoxy let it get tacky and dusted on mica powder. (I was cleaning shiny stuff out of the far corners of my garage for months after, so word to the wise there)

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Yes.  I do this a bunch for making two color lures.  A damp q-tip is a nice tool. But you can't do detailed work, and it is difficult to to get every bit of the excess powder out of all the nooks and crannies, pores, etc.
Temporarily masking with painters tape during application is another option if the work is not too detailed.

A  bit more on the options:

Maybe Joe will figure out a process that works for him, but this is essentially using powder in a method that is in conflict with its fundamental properties. Powder is a coating, not a paint.

This is a bit of a simplification: Liquid urethane paint is a combination of urethane and solvents, the urethane is dissolved into the solvent, and this dissolved urethane in contact with the surface tends to get sticky right after you apply it, so you can apply the liquid paint some precision. The solvent evaporates fairly quickly, and the urethane hardens.

The powder used in coating is just the urethane paint in powder form with no solvents.  You need to have an even, fairly exact depth of the powder to stick to the part long enough  for it to melt and fuse to itself and the part when exposed to heat in the 350-400F range. 

This is usually achieved by attaching a negative electric charge to the part and a positive electric charge to the powder as it is released from the sprayer.  The powder sticks lightly to the part due to the residual static charge. On smaller parts like reels, you often don't have to spray multiple sides, the powder cloud will wrap around the back side of the part and coat everything. If you blow on the powder, you can dislodge it. The bond is very light before curing.

A part just sitting around can have enough static charge that a bit of loose powder might stick to it.  So the process of painting details on the part with a special wetting agent (like Columbia Powder Water) and then dusting with powder will tend to have a bit of the equivalent of overspray. A little bit of the powder can stick to other areas.

In my experiments, using the recommended method of first mixing the powder into the wetting agent gives you a less than satisfactory "paint", as the powder doesn't dissolve.  The solution is either too thin to  leave an adequate layer or too lumpy, and has a short work time. It doesn't  seem to want to stick evenly unless you are applying to a blasted surface with some tooth.

BTW-  there are additives like pearls, micas, and glow in the dark pigments that can successfully be blended with powders and applied normally. This can be fun.

-J

Have you considered using High Temperature Powder Coating Tape or Kapton tape used for masking sensitive connectors while hot air soldering of electronic components? 

I suspect simple strait lines like those you tried for the Pink Floyd  logo look on one of your reels would be a good candidate for TekLine Glass Cloth High Temperature Powder Coating Tape.

Kapton tape might also work as its is good up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. It's is inexpensive, easily cut and might work to mask off areas for a multi-stage finish (masking before a "green bake", then adding a second coat before the final cure.

You might want to experiment with a some sheet metal using some stencils or Cricut (if your wife has one) or similar device to cut the masks on the Kapton tape and apply the masks prior to powder coating.

Quote from: jtwill98 on March 17, 2026, 06:07:39 PMHave you considered using High Temperature Powder Coating Tape or Kapton tape used for masking sensitive connectors while hot air soldering of electronic components? 

I suspect simple strait lines like those you tried for the Pink Floyd  logo look on one of your reels would be a good candidate for TekLine Glass Cloth High Temperature Powder Coating Tape.

Kapton tape might also work as its is good up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. It's is inexpensive, easily cut and might work to mask off areas for a multi-stage finish (masking before a "green bake", then adding a second coat before the final cure.

You might want to experiment with a some sheet metal using some stencils or Cricut (if your wife has one) or similar device to cut the masks on the Kapton tape and apply the masks prior to powder coating.

Good ideas.  These are used.

  Kapton tape is used, and is even sold by powder coating suppliers.  I have some, but don't use it much.

It is useful for keeping hot melting powder from flowing into spots where you don't want it, but the powder can form an unsightly ridge at the edge of the tape.  And taping over a previously applied coat can damage the surface during heating.

For multicolor work, using painters tape during the application process, and then removing to tape before baking is preferable for me, but I am usually coating lures and not doing precision work.


The folk that powder coat those stainless mugs use a Cricut or similar vinyl cutter to make a mask.  They leave the vinyl mask on for a short time at the beginning of baking the part, pulling up the vinyl before it melts.  This method leaves a cleaner edge without a ridge. They do this to make nice clean colored logos.  Haven't tried this myself.

IMHO, none of the hot masking techniques are great for multicolor work. But  I never tried very hard to perfect the technique.

-J

There is one other technique that I haven't tried but want to:  dye sublimation.

After powder coating the part, a laser or inkjet printed reversed image is pressed against the surface, the part goes into the oven, and the dye in the printed image transfers, and is permanently bonded into the powder coating.

There are special powder coats, papers and toner/inks that can be used, but some folks figured out how to do it Joe-style, with standard laser prints, and powder coating, with varying degrees of success.  I have seen some that have come out very nice.

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on March 17, 2026, 05:32:10 PM

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Dave I am so glad you take the time to write out explanations and theories . I do agree with you   

Yes.  I do this a bunch for making two color lures.  A damp q-tip is a nice tool. But you can't do detailed work, and it is difficult to to get every bit of the excess powder out of all the nooks and crannies, pores, etc.
Temporarily masking with painters tape during application is another option if the work is not too detailed.

A  bit more on the options:

Maybe Joe will figure out a process that works for him, but this is essentially using powder in a method that is in conflict with its fundamental properties. Powder is a coating, not a paint.

This is a bit of a simplification: Liquid urethane paint is a combination of urethane and solvents, the urethane is dissolved into the solvent, and this dissolved urethane in contact with the surface tends to get sticky right after you apply it, so you can apply the liquid paint some precision. The solvent evaporates fairly quickly, and the urethane hardens.

The powder used in coating is just the urethane paint in powder form with no solvents.  You need to have an even, fairly exact depth of the powder to stick to the part long enough  for it to melt and fuse to itself and the part when exposed t

Quote from: jurelometer on March 17, 2026, 05:32:10 PM

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 17, 2026, 02:59:44 AMOk I'm talking out my spray nozzle here but I had an idea re: detail work. Why brush it on? Couldn't you dump/spray/put a ton of powder on and brush off the excess before baking? I'm usually missing something.

The joker looks cool though.

Yes.  I do this a bunch for making two color lures.  A damp q-tip is a nice tool. But you can't do detailed work, and it is difficult to to get every bit of the excess powder out of all the nooks and crannies, pores, etc.
Temporarily masking with painters tape during application is another option if the work is not too detailed.

A  bit more on the options:

Maybe Joe will figure out a process that works for him, but this is essentially using powder in a method that is in conflict with its fundamental properties. Powder is a coating, not a paint.

This is a bit of a simplification: Liquid urethane paint is a combination of urethane and solvents, the urethane is dissolved into the solvent, and this dissolved urethane in contact with the surface tends to get sticky right after you apply it, so you can apply the liquid paint some precision. The solvent evaporates fairly quickly, and the urethane hardens.

The powder used in coating is just the urethane paint in powder form with no solvents.  You need to have an even, fairly exact depth of the powder to stick to the part long enough  for it to melt and fuse to itself and the part when exposed to heat in the 350-400F range. 

This is usually achieved by attaching a negative electric charge to the part and a positive electric charge to the powder as it is released from the sprayer.  The powder sticks lightly to the part due to the residual static charge. On smaller parts like reels, you often don't have to spray multiple sides, the powder cloud will wrap around the back side of the part and coat everything. If you blow on the powder, you can dislodge it. The bond is very light before curing.

A part just sitting around can have enough static charge that a bit of loose powder might stick to it.  So the process of painting details on the part with a special wetting agent (like Columbia Powder Water) and then dusting with powder will tend to have a bit of the equivalent of overspray. A little bit of the powder can stick to other areas.

In my experiments, using the recommended method of first mixing the powder into the wetting agent gives you a less than satisfactory "paint", as the powder doesn't dissolve.  The solution is either too thin to  leave an adequate layer or too lumpy, and has a short work time. It doesn't  seem to want to stick evenly unless you are applying to a blasted surface with some tooth.

BTW-  there are additives like pearls, micas, and glow in the dark pigments that can successfully be blended with powders and applied normally. This can be fun.

-J

Dave I am so glad you like to write you explanations and theories , You are spot on . 

Quote from: jtwill98 on March 17, 2026, 06:07:39 PMHave you considered using High Temperature Powder Coating Tape or Kapton tape used for masking sensitive connectors while hot air soldering of electronic components? 

I suspect simple strait lines like those you tried for the Pink Floyd  logo look on one of your reels would be a good candidate for TekLine Glass Cloth High Temperature Powder Coating Tape.

Kapton tape might also work as its is good up to 300-400 degrees Celsius. It's is inexpensive, easily cut and might work to mask off areas for a multi-stage finish (masking before a "green bake", then adding a second coat before the final cure.

You might want to experiment with a some sheet metal using some stencils or Cricut (if your wife has one) or similar device to cut the masks on the Kapton tape and apply the masks prior to powder coating.

I do not have a Cricut Machine yet .  You have peaked my interest in this Kapton tape , I am not familiar with it .  Can you provide a link ?   Yes that was the problem to get the prism lines of color .

I am trying to do the badges . There is vacuum tool to remove unwanted power , like the size of a needle .  Or I can paint when the hands are steady and do clean up before the bake . I will get there sooner or later !

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 17, 2026, 09:14:16 PMDave I am so glad you take the time to write out explanations and theories . I do agree with you 

Great minds think aliike :d

I appreciate the effort that you have put in documenting your journey with powder coating.  I am learning some new  stuff, and generally enjoying the show!

-J

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 17, 2026, 09:21:13 PMI do not have a Cricut Machine yet .  You have peaked my interest in this Kapton tape , I am not familiar with it .  Can you provide a link ?  Yes that was the problem to get the prism lines of color .

Here's a good site (https://croylek.com/pages/kapton-tape?srsltid=AfmBOooWsMc2cRZjv4iDunr9XepaWhQFGIzomru-WawYjBqn5tKSifp6) that has some information on Kapton Polyimide Film, describing what it is and some of it's properties. I read somewhere that its oven safe. ;)

I would recommend DuPont Kapton Polyimide Film brand but I imagine there are cheaper alternatives just as good. You'll need to check the adhesive properties and ensure it has silicon adhesive.

I didn't realize this, but Amazon sells Kapton sheets for 3D printing surface covering. I'm familiar with the tape variety like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NDRY223/ref=twister_B08NDQHP8V?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

If you have some old dead battery lying around for cordless tools like a DeWalt battery, there might be some Kapton tape inside that you can use for experimentation.   

Another alternative might be this: https://tapeproviders.com/collections/high-temperature-tapes/products/wod-polyester-tape-3-5-mil-silicone-adhesive-72-yards-high-temp-resistant-for-splicing-masking-or-holding-application-pft35gs I have no experience with it but looks interesting as one of the reviews stated: "I use thus tape when powder coating stainless Steele cups and it comes off clean leaving no residue"  It too is sold on Amazon, search for "Green PET High Temperature Tape"

The kapton sheet for 3D printing beds probably has a stronger adhesive than the tape. The tape should be available from wherever you get your powder coating supplies.  There are tons of sellers on Amazon too.  They might just call it high temp tape or polyimide tape.  It is transparent, and the stuff I have has a blue tint.

It is also used to bind the transfer sheet to the part if you want to try dye sublimation.

-J

   OK  I have the high temp tape , I know it as pet tape .  The green tape does not stick well on the reels outer edges . Painter tape is much better sticking .  It also will take 3 cooking . The tape comes off better when it is still warm !

  From reading there are other color tape that some say sticks better .   

Chili pepper... ;D   Dominick

Interesting.  I never tried baking with the painter's tape on.  I take it off right after spraying. I would think that you run the risk of having some of the tape edge getting fused with the paint.

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on March 18, 2026, 05:46:29 PMInteresting.  I never tried baking with the painter's tape on.  I take it off right after spraying. I would think that you run the risk of having some of the tape edge getting fused with the paint.

-J

Na it comes off easy , and it helps to have surgical skills with a knife you know practice for my next hobby career !

Tried something different , Dirty red than laced with white , than laced with blue .  Turn it side ways and it looks green !

 Tried different camera setting to get it real looking , the second picture is dark .

Joe you're a mad scientist.

    Cooked a red 331 n and a red 220 today .    Some sunshine shots .

Trying out a new color  Cadillac Grey Metallic.
 A dark, charcoal grey coating with heavy metallic flake.
While a clear coat is not required, it is recommended if the final product will be used outdoors or frequently handled.

This has clear on it now , I may use this color as a base later .

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 26, 2026, 07:47:47 PMTrying out a new color  Cadillac Grey Metallic.
 A dark, charcoal grey coating with heavy metallic flake.
While a clear coat is not required, it is recommended if the final product will be used outdoors or frequently handled.

This has clear on it now , I may use this color as a base later .

That's a good look that to my eye seems more period correct for these reels.   There are also some interesting wrinkle and vein textures that might go with the old Quicks.

Keep 'em coming!

-J

Quote from: jurelometer on March 26, 2026, 07:52:51 PM

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 26, 2026, 07:47:47 PMTrying out a new color  Cadillac Grey Metallic.
 A dark, charcoal grey coating with heavy metallic flake.
While a clear coat is not required, it is recommended if the final product will be used outdoors or frequently handled.

This has clear on it now , I may use this color as a base later .

That's a good look that to my eye seems more period correct for these reels.   There are also some interesting wrinkle and vein textures that might go with the old Quicks.

Keep 'em coming!

-J

Yes I like this color .   Howsabout some ideas on some paint schemes ,I am starting to run out of Ideas  .     Anybody can make suggestions , I am open ! 

I'm on a roll today, so here's a challenge for you: a gradient. Red at the top. Blue on bottom, even transition between. Or two other dissimilar colors of your choice.

That grey looks magnifico!

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 26, 2026, 08:46:30 PMI'm on a roll today, so here's a challenge for you: a gradient. Red at the top. Blue on bottom, even transition between. Or two other dissimilar colors of your choice.

  I have this casting that I might try the red on top / or were to make the fade of the two colors.
     It may turn out weird because of the blue being cured already .   But it worth a try .

Mr Joe.
The grey is very nice.
Are you ready to take orders for color upgrades or is this just a personal hobby?
I have a candidate or two that could use a facelift.
-Steve

Quote from: sandbar on March 29, 2026, 10:49:00 PMMr Joe.
The grey is very nice.
Are you ready to take orders for color upgrades or is this just a personal hobby?
I have a candidate or two that could use a facelift.
-Steve

Swing by with them , I believe I can make them look better !

Can I bring my wife by?   ;D   Dominick

Quote from: Dominick on March 30, 2026, 03:25:03 AMCan I bring my wife by?   ;D   Dominick

:-[  Shure    I have some nice nail polish and glitter ..

Stripped a 440 paint job that was chipping , so I changed it to gold and also did a 220 n

Joe - Thank you!  This is one of those threads that makes this site so useful; you are doing stuff I barely understand and making cool looking results AND sharing all the information.  Keep on doing what your doing.  But please don't powder coat Mrs. Dominick.... - john

I don`t have to , She is a natural Beautiful woman , Better looking than the Gladiator !

Quote from: oldmanjoe on April 01, 2026, 11:52:22 PMI don`t have to , She is a natural Beautiful woman , Better looking than the Gladiator !

yep!

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 27, 2026, 06:08:54 PM

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 26, 2026, 08:46:30 PMI'm on a roll today, so here's a challenge for you: a gradient. Red at the top. Blue on bottom, even transition between. Or two other dissimilar colors of your choice.

  I have this casting that I might try the red on top / or were to make the fade of the two colors.
     It may turn out weird because of the blue being cured already .   But it worth a try .

Well  I gave it a try .    I had to try holding the reel together with a bolt so I can hold a half way line . I shot red candy on the top half with the netting on the bottom half .  I took pictures along the way .
       Not to thrilled with color blend , so I pushed it and shot Flipping Phoenix  . I think it looks much better now !  The sun came out so I took more pictures to show the colors!

  I was fishing a 110  N that is fairly new to me .  After a few fish it felt funny . Sure enough a broken foot .    I found that it had been broken and had been "Repaired "

   I cleaned it up and jigged it and piled on J B weld from the syringe .  First time using this from a syringe , a little watery than the paste type ,and claims just as strong .
I did not add a splint to the bottom on this one .
   
Final sanding , than shot black powder .

Great looking Jackson Pollock reel and amazing repair!

Quote from: rcmsangab on April 06, 2026, 07:05:36 PMGreat looking Jackson Pollock reel and amazing repair!

Thank You , Can`t say that I know Jackson Pollock reel Thou .

A 4000 with gold side panels . did a lot of clean up on the parting lines .

Quote from: oldmanjoe on April 06, 2026, 07:32:28 PM

Quote from: rcmsangab on April 06, 2026, 07:05:36 PMGreat looking Jackson Pollock reel and amazing repair!

Thank You , Can`t say that I know Jackson Pollock reel Thou .

Your amazing powder coated reels with the flecks of different colors reminded me of some of his paintings is all.  So cool.

Quote from: rcmsangab on April 07, 2026, 01:00:47 AM

Quote from: oldmanjoe on April 06, 2026, 07:32:28 PM

Quote from: rcmsangab on April 06, 2026, 07:05:36 PMGreat looking Jackson Pollock reel and amazing repair!

Thank You , Can`t say that I know Jackson Pollock reel Thou .

Your amazing powder coated reels with the flecks of different colors reminded me of some of his paintings is all.  So cool.

You just broadening My knowledge   Jackson Pollock abstract Drip art .

  Today I have 3  330 .   Gold with black lace ,  Black with gold lace and Burgundy body with Cadillac Gray  side panels .

 A slick as a onion 220 in black .

The 220 looks great!

Looks newer than new!

Those are all Wow! - john

   :) I still keep trying different things ,practice ,practice and more practice.
 A before and after of a 331.  Last two pictures are in the shade for different color .

  Cleaned up another 4000 .  A two tone  Burgundy and black .

Shot a 270 today with Cha Chow and burgundy , than shot a light coat of Candy red metallic on top.

    The first 2 pictures are the test pieces of aluminum foil with the two colors , the side plate and cover are still have burgandy only here for the difference in color .      It made it pop in color .

You just get better and better, Joe!

Best, Fred

       This is a 440 n .  When you look real close , you feel the casting parting lines and this reel ,the side cover was big all the way around .      While still fully painted  , I used a flat file to knock down all the high spots .  Wrinkle paint hides a lot of this .

   Shot it the basic Matt black .   Also did a 440 ..

Black and gold look best to me

Joe - those look great.  How "forgiving" is powder coating?  Where you filed down the rough edges on the DAM, you could clearly see the file teeth.  Do you have to do a finer sand to smooth out (as one would with paint) or does the powder coat just fill in all the roughness? - john

I was kinda hoping the after pics would show that area up close. Unless you're... Hiding something.

Quote from: oldmanjoe on May 02, 2026, 07:21:25 PMThis is a 440 n .  When you look real close , you feel the casting parting lines and this reel ,the side cover was big all the way around .      While still fully painted  , I used a flat file to knock down all the high spots .  Wrinkle paint hides a lot of this .

   Shot it the basic Matt black .   Also did a 440 ..

That's exactly why I've never been fan of spinning reels coated with wrinkle or textured paint, plus they're tougher to clean and keep looking nice when being used a lot.

Quote from: Brewcrafter on May 03, 2026, 01:49:50 AMJoe - those look great.  How "forgiving" is powder coating?  Where you filed down the rough edges on the DAM, you could clearly see the file teeth.  Do you have to do a finer sand to smooth out (as one would with paint) or does the powder coat just fill in all the roughness? - john

Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on May 03, 2026, 01:55:40 AMI was kinda hoping the after pics would show that area up close. Unless you're... Hiding something.

 :)  Well here we are with another experiment .   Normally I would file the rough spots , than follow with a sanding drum .  I than polish with a Cratex bits for a smooth finish .   I did not do that here .

I went to the sand blaster as is.   Now I use Black Beauty "coal slag " in the cabinet .    This reel was shot with slap worn out grit .  The casting usually has a look of 320 sandpaper , this one does not .

 When I  started to shoot this reel ,I was going with Matt Black than follow with Bourbon Street.
     Well the bourbon street never got shot .

      How "forgiving" is powder coating?    You can do quite a bit of fudgework .   I can coat heavy in one area versus another without worry of paint drip. I can still repaint this reel without stripping.

         The rotor pictures show this .        If I shot the next coat , this would be gone "Casting porosity"  . The original paint hid most of this .

    One thing I should mention also ,This coat of black is shot very light because it makes the second coat easier to stick with static charge .   I should have stuck to the Plan !
           

Quote from: Brewcrafter on May 03, 2026, 01:49:50 AMJoe - those look great.  How "forgiving" is powder coating?  Where you filed down the rough edges on the DAM, you could clearly see the file teeth.  Do you have to do a finer sand to smooth out (as one would with paint) or does the powder coat just fill in all the roughness? - john

To add on to Joe's response on this question, you actually don't want a smooth substrate. What you want is a a uniform, very rough surface. Think matte paint magnified.


Powder coat is paint. It is just not delivered in a liquid solvent that evaporates.  Instead, as it is heated, the powder melts and cross links, turning into what is more or less gooey melted plastic.  On a smooth surface, it just sorta lies on top, but on a rough surface, the melted powder flows itself into all the nooks and crannies, creating a much stronger mechanical bond.

When I was powder coating reels, I blasted the parts in a cabinet with garnet media, which is very aggressive stuff that is normally used to as a first step to remove paint and corrosion from old parts.  Despite the rough metal surface, the powder coat would come out glass smooth, give or take a bit of unrelated orange peel from pilot error.

As long as you can't see a scratch or other defect after blasting, there is no additional prep needed.  If you do see anything, you should sand or fill as needed then blast a bit again.

Which reminds me.  I am going to experiment with some of my jig molds to build in the equivalent surface to a garnet plast.  It will hopefully do a better job of holding the paint on the jig longer.

The first photo is what a garnet blasted part looks like.

The following photos are a couple of my parts that were blasted and then powder coated.  On the spinning reel, you can still see the original artifacts from the mold eject pins, but the overall surface is quite smooth.


-J

Ok I had a couple more reels to shoot the same colors .  So I did take apart the 440 N to finish the plan , "burry the casting flaws "

 This is the line up 330 n 440 n and a 550

Durability ?    I had changed the grit in the sandblast cabinet with coarse black beauty .

     I had this 2052 Shakespeare that I did when I first started shooting powder , It has a blem on the foot and it look like it did not fully cured or orange peel look to it . It`s been laying around , because I don`t have all the guts for it .

   So I put it the sand blaster to reshoot it .  This is what it looks like after blasting . Dull finish .  It does not blast off easy by any means , it would have to be chemical stripped .   Washed it clean with dawn .   Though I had more of the purple metallic , what I had was box sweepings of purple and chrome in a baggie  ,more chrome than purple .
 
Not bad looking ,I did not take a picture , but I said what the hell shoot Candy Red Metallic on top and see what happens .

Many times I have slipped with the knife cleaning up tolerance areas and did not cut into the powder coat , Passes the drop test many times . when I thought it was going to leave a mark !!
   

A 331 with Black Aurora
 
A mitchell 302 with red metallic

And a pair of pimple face handles .   These pot metal handles are a pain .   Out gas for 2 hours at 450 degrees   , shot with Anti-gas primer and still pot holes !

Crikey thats like what my attempts might come out looking like