Hi all,
I'm going to be building my Cortez Conversion squidder next week, and i had a couple of newbie questions that I figured I put here for your amusement and my education.
1. I want all the old parts (the like 5 of them) to be like new, so I want to remove the shellaced oil from the metal. Specifically the bridge and yoke.
A) what is the best solvent for this purpose?
B) what sort of abrasive will assist without scratching the chromed brass/ brass and also not be destroyed by the solvent.
2. A light coating of ALL interior surfaces of the anodized aluminum and other metal is recommended with grease, correct? I'm using Penn reel grease as my high viscosity lubricant, and would be using this as the protectant.
3. How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?
4. I got an old power handle that has some pitting in the chromed brass, how best to clean that metal and protect it from further corrosion.
Cheers!
I use carburetor cleaner to clean metal parts but many different solvents will work. I use simichrome to polish metal
Quote from: MolBasser on March 07, 2026, 02:50:30 PM3. How fast does galvonic corrosion occur, and what do I watch for/do if I see it form between the stainless and aluminum?
It depends on where the dissimilar metals are on the nobility scale, the further apart the faster. Grease is your friend.
Here is an example of what I have done so far.
Too much grease? The body has the blue penn grease and inside the threads of the stainless alan bolts and under the clicker spring has red quantum reel grease. When I join the body and the plates, there will be red quantum reel grease between the parts. (I'd just use the blue, but..... the reel is red and my brain says red is better).
Lee speaks wisdom. Now with your photo, that is definitely more grease than I would use, BUT you certainly are not hurting anything - just wasting grease. A thin layer is all it takes unless your reel is going to spend an entire season in the rod rack getting pummeled and soaked with waves coming over the side every day. I would say pay particular attention to the threads/holes of fasteners, but again, be careful - a little goes a long way. It does not take much but when you are dealing with fasteners that go into a blind hole (such as the screws holding the clicker spring in the photo) a little too much grease and you will be asking how to remove broken fasteners/repair stripped holes when you hydrolock. You're doing fine keep us posted with updates! (and any questions!) - john
John is right, a bit less would work.
Too much grease in a screw hole could dammage the frame due to it not being "compressable", agan like John mentione above. A bit on the threads is all needed.
I was fortunate enough to "inherit" a few rattle cans of Boeshield when my brother closed down his aviation repair station and use it rather than grease. However grease is far more "cost effective". I also have a shrinking supply of big $ anti-sieze we used on steam turbines I put on screws if I do not use grease.
Pitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat. Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.
Quote from: Keta on March 07, 2026, 08:17:28 PMPitted chrome does not effect how a reel functions but it makes your reel look like shat. Try to find a better "stock" handle/handle arm or get a aftermarket one.
It's not that bad and on the reel side of the handle, so it's not a huge concern to me. Just trying to figure out how to keep it from getting worse. Eventually I'll get another, but if like to use this one a while till I learn the reel and understand what handle would be best.
Odorless mineral spirits, #0 steel wool, toothbrush and the old parts are degreased and mostly de-shellaced.
I get the sleave and star on Monday so just in a holding pattern.
Gears are all in really good shape and not much wear on anything. I don't think this reel got much use.
I use rubbing alcohol sometimes after a lacquer thinner bath on metal parts only. Also "Awesome" Cleaner from dollar general. I let it sit 1 min & then rinse under the laundry room faucet for any residual grease.
I use a plastic spudger to get stubborn shellaced grease off, pointed On one end can get in nooks & crannies. The flat end for larger flat areas. I like gun brushes also the Small end can get in tight places.
10 Pieces Universal Black Stick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGNCNR0
Gun brush
https://a.co/d/094weSqb
I like Awesome but it can frost glass. I am not sure what it does to anodising.
Carb cleaner or acetone are what I use for stubborn grease.
Great advice from 3 awesome builders. Bill
What I love about these reels is the functional simplicity. Here is the reel with the external stuff put on and greased and such.
1 question I have is whether the spool spindle is supposed to hit the cup (and thus tightening the cups allow a sense of cast control), or if the spindle rides on the inside of the inner race.
The instructions have you putting in a 0.03" shim on the clicker side which suggests that the spindle should press against the race not the cup. But why would you not need to shim the other side also? I have a washer in the bags of parts from the natural reel or the kit (there was some mixing) that is the right diameter it is 0.02" that could be put in the cup on the gear side if it makes sense.
Both cups can be adjusted so the shim would only function (on either side) as an assurance of the spindle pressing on the race and not on the cup.
If anyone can give me a good reason why both wouldn't be shimmed I would very much like to understand this.
Top pic gear side waiting for the bearing or shim bearing. Bottom pic the clicker side with shim under bearing.
Bearings are being lubricated with ReelX
Hello,
Yes on both sides the spool should be pressing against the race not the cup.
I believe the extra shim can be used as necessary to center the spool within the frame, thus distributing pressure equally throughout the parts.
Back off both bearing cups, center the left spool flange using the clicker-side cup, then do the same for the right side accordingly.
Quote from: cbar45 on March 08, 2026, 11:14:20 PMHello,
Yes on both sides the spool should be pressing against the race not the cup.
I believe the extra shim can be used as necessary to center the spool within the frame, thus distributing pressure equally throughout the parts.
Back off both bearing cups, center the left spool flange using the clicker-side cup, then do the same for the right side accordingly.
Excellent. Thank you. It makes the most sense to me that way.
Yeah, both shims in works fine. Free spool for days. Easy to adjust.
USPS is convinced it will get my sleeve from salt lake city overnight. I'm not convinced.
Quote from: jgp12000 on March 08, 2026, 12:25:49 PMI use rubbing alcohol sometimes after a lacquer thinner bath on metal parts only. Also "Awesome" Cleaner from dollar general. I let it sit 1 min & then rinse under the laundry room faucet for any residual grease.
I use a plastic spudger to get stubborn shellaced grease off, pointed On one end can get in nooks & crannies. The flat end for larger flat areas. I like gun brushes also the Small end can get in tight places.
10 Pieces Universal Black Stick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGNCNR0
Gun brush
https://a.co/d/094weSqb
Thanks for those links.
Little Red Corvette:
Sweet Build!!! - john
Very nice!!
So now....when is it going to hit the water? - john
Quote from: Brewcrafter on March 10, 2026, 02:02:40 AMSo now....when is it going to hit the water? - john
It needs a new rod home. It won't fit the reel seat on the inshore rod i have. I'm looking at options, and should have a rod for it in a few weeks. But it does fit one of my ugly stik tigers. Might throw some swimbaits at local largemouth later this week.
NICE.
I paired it with a Phenix 8' Black Diamond Inshore 10-30.
Pretty stoked.
Bring on the fish.
Here is the full setup. Ready to fish.
NICE!
Quote from: Brewcrafter on March 10, 2026, 02:02:40 AMSo now....when is it going to hit the water? - john
Tomorrow is the day. Kind of not the purpose of the rod, but it will do for it. I'm going to be tossing big trout imitations at my local lake (they stock trout there) in hopes of fooling some largemouth.
Pics will follow.
Phew! Gonna have to educate that thumb more. Many minor backlashes (but thankfully never a full bird's nest) throwing a 2oz glide bait. It is sort of high profile so once that spool is up and spinning any drag on the bait will over run it. If I was throwing a jig I could send it a country mile though!
Also, it was a great reminder of how slow that reel really is, especially when I was trading off with 6-7:1 ratio bass reels. Overall, I'm super stoked with the set up though.
I find I like these better with live or cut bait. Then that slow retrieve is just... power. Not so much lures. Fishing starts becoming athletic.
Quote from: JasonGotaProblem on March 25, 2026, 04:01:29 AMI find I like these better with live or cut bait. Then that slow retrieve is just... power. Not so much lures. Fishing starts becoming athletic.
Exactly, this was built to be a live bait/drift bait fishing stick, so it will be just fine. I just wanted to get a feel for it. I have a much better setup that I use to throw my swim/glide baits anyway.