Hey all,
I had this 110 up an running smoothly except for weird noise from rotor cup area that I couldnt figure out -- ended up poking and prodding and realized counterweight was loose and jiggling a little. Noise stopped when I wedged a toothpick between the counterwight and the semi-circular raised part (some kind of placement quide?). Anyway, decided to fill that gap with JB Weld and so far so good except now it was quiet enough for me to notice the AR cicker noise and movement was kind of --hard to describe- but somehow much softer feeling and quieter than my 220 with the same mechanism. Not a huge deal but curious how to address the issue.
So two questions:
1) Any harm in putting JB Weld in that gap? Realize the horse has left the barn but for my education.
2) How do you guys recommend cleaning / servicing that AR assembly? It is working fine except for maybe being somehow quieter than it should be.
Thanks, Russ
Quote from: rcmsangab on Today at 01:06:14 AMSo two questions:
1) Any harm in putting JB Weld in that gap? Realize the horse has left the barn but for my education.
2) How do you guys recommend cleaning / servicing that AR assembly? It is working fine except for maybe being somehow quieter than it should be.
Thanks, Russ
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Hi Russ —-
JB Weld is a good fix for the loose counterweight —- as long as it is secure and the JB Weld was not over-applied as to throw off the rotor balance. Or, you could replace the rotor (the counterweight comes with the rotor). Gorilla glue works also.
As for the less than robust clicking noise —- easiest fix is to remove the main gear and axle, clean off any grease, then reassemble using just 2 drops of oil on the eight A/R holes on the underside of the main gear. Also, stretch the A/R pin spring just a bit —- this will give you a more positive click every 45°.
Now, it is also possible that the A/R pin is worn down —- but the above remedies will solve that. If parts are desired or needed, I have those.
A 110 Microlite is a tough little lifetime powerhouse. Well worth keeping it in good order.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on Today at 04:04:06 AMHi Russ —-
JB Weld is a good fix for the loose counterweight —- as long as it is secure and the JB Weld was not over-applied as to throw off the rotor balance. Or, you could replace the rotor (the counterweight comes with the rotor). Gorilla glue works also.
As for the less than robust clicking noise —- easiest fix is to remove the main gear and axle, clean off any grease, then reassemble using just 2 drops of oil on the eight A/R holes on the underside of the main gear. Also, stretch the A/R pin spring just a bit —- this will give you a more positive click every 45°.
Now, it is also possible that the A/R pin is worn down —- but the above remedies will solve that. If parts are desired or needed, I have those.
A 110 Microlite is a tough little lifetime powerhouse. Well worth keeping it in good order.
Best, Fred
Thanks for the guidance Fred. Will follow steps you outlined to adress the AR issue and see how it goes. Don't think the pin is worn down too much. Thought about using something with lower visocsity but was concerned about containing it to where I wanted it plus JB Weld is what I had. Haven't noticed a wobble yet but will check when I deal with th AR. Love these Dam Quicks so much now that I've worked on a few different kinds of reels. Like how solid everything is and they somehow seem so logical. Btw, sure it has been covered elsewhere but does it matter which way the two sided leather/vinyl drag washer is oriented? Thanks again,
Russ
Btw, sure it has been covered elsewhere but does it matter which way the two sided leather/vinyl drag washer is oriented?
If it is a vinyl/teflon drag —- it makes no difference.
If it is a leather drag, the smooth side should go upwards.
Best, Fred