I don't know if this has been posted here before, too many posts to check them all, but I tried an experiment with the eccentric, jack plate, yoke, and underside of the bridge (gear side). Since I have a little knowledge of watches and even had my own watch forum for a while, I decided to use some watch reconditioning practices I've learned over the years. I managed to mirror polish all the parts that come in contact one another to minimize the friction of the metal to metal parts. Maybe a little over the top, but it did make a small difference in the engagement of the jack plate ramping on top of the yoke, also radiused the sharp edges of the yoke ever so slightly, which can only make the stainless yoke stronger. The eccentric shaft that goes thru the side plate was also polished since it is in a bushing type configuration with the plastic, I also polished the hole with with my plastic crystal polish(for watches) making the bore hole for the eccentric as smooth as possible as well. The bridge on the gear side I mirror polished where the jack plate slides under it to help reduce the metal to metal friction there too, also polished the stainless shaft for the new stainless gear sleeve too before installation, put it back together with a thin coat of Yami Marine Grease and it sure seems alot smoother shifting, not that I had a problem before but it's action is a little better, but at my age it's fun to experiment with a new hobby that I can still see!!!!
Sweet Suite: Never stop experimenting. Have you tried the plastic polish on the side plates? I sure would like to find a polish that would make them look like new. Dominick
No I havn't Dom, but what I have is for refinishing the plastic crystal on your watch to remove scratches and cloudiness, it's quite tedious, because any time you use an abrasive along with high speed buffing wheels it creates alot of heat and will actually melt the plastic and do more harm than good. It does take practice and I assure you sir I have burned plastic in the past more than once, be very careful buffing plastic side plates, and the polish/rouge used is in a stick form and it's a baby blue color, I will experiment with that too at a later date. IMHO the sideplate chalking/fading is more of a UV exposure over the years and polish can't fix that without removing way to much surface material, but here is another experiment I will try, before I load up the gear, I'll give it a corosion x light spray for for salt water protection and a spray of Coppertone UV 50 for the sun protection, can't hurt can it????
nah,after the beach you can take it to the zoo for a day out. ;D ;D
Quote from: wallacewt on May 18, 2012, 04:07:04 AM
nah,after the beach you can take it to the zoo for a day out. ;D ;D
Wallace, you've made me spill coffee all over the keyboard....you're nuts!!! ;D ;D
Quote from: suitekids on May 18, 2012, 01:16:09 AM
No I havn't Dom, but what I have is for refinishing the plastic crystal on your watch to remove scratches and cloudiness, it's quite tedious, because any time you use an abrasive along with high speed buffing wheels it creates alot of heat and will actually melt the plastic and do more harm than good. It does take practice and I assure you sir I have burned plastic in the past more than once, be very careful buffing plastic side plates, and the polish/rouge used is in a stick form and it's a baby blue color, I will experiment with that too at a later date. IMHO the sideplate chalking/fading is more of a UV exposure over the years and polish can't fix that without removing way to much surface material, but here is another experiment I will try, before I load up the gear, I'll give it a corosion x light spray for for salt water protection and a spray of Coppertone UV 50 for the sun protection, can't hurt can it????
It should be ok to buff the plates, you need to take your time and not use too much pressure. I never had a problem with the plates melting, can't say the same for the handle knobs :-\. I'm talking about the plates on my older Penn reels though, don't know much about the newer models.
Quote from: wallacewt on May 18, 2012, 04:07:04 AM
nah,after the beach you can take it to the zoo for a day out. ;D ;D
Wallace: That is the funniest thing you have ever written. It gave me a belly laugh.
Sal: What I have been succesful with is shoe polish and a shoe brush. The brushing gives a gentle heat to the process. Dominick
Quote from: Pescachaser on May 18, 2012, 05:30:03 PM
Quote from: wallacewt on May 18, 2012, 04:07:04 AM
nah,after the beach you can take it to the zoo for a day out. ;D ;D
Wallace: That is the funniest thing you have ever written. It gave me a belly laugh.
Sal: What I have been succesful with is shoe polish and a shoe brush. The brushing gives a gentle heat to the process. Dominick
I use my old greasy toothbrush, it works grate
thanks for the chuckle.
so usually i find that the lever is sticking because the eccentric spring is sticking up to far out of the top of the eccentric. knock off the tag end and you won't feel that catch.
Gel Gloss for side plates that are not too far gone, cleaner-wax for the more oxidized sideplates.
I for one rarely bother with external looks, but rather if any internal parts rusted.