Hey Guys,
Wondering what type of bonding agent to use to glue/bond a small internal piece of graphite that broke off in my spinner main body housing. I've thouroughly cleaned/degreased the housing. Ive tried CA/super glue with poor results; so I was thinking of wire-brushing a new rough surface (and remove the old super glue) then using "JB Weld" aka "my magic glue". Any suggestions for a bonding agent for graphite?
Thanx again guys,
Leo
check on the cost of a new frame ...... :-\
Hello Leo, I noticed that you are good at taking pictures, could you show a shot of the damaged piece? Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much was that reel.
One way or another Im fixing this reel. I purchased it a couple of decades ago and is only used by guests. The tip of the awl is pointing to the damaged area, the other photo shows the broken piece and the two other parts that are associated with the repair. The long shaft actiuates the spinners anti reverse and the copper spring adds pressure to the shaft. The spinner is a Daiwa PR1605H. BTW Sal, Im just lucky taking pictures w/this camera (you wouldnt believe how primative it is, it was a salvage gift) but I seem to get it to work for me.
Sal, here are the photos:
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/IMG_0001-1.jpg)
A closer view of the body:
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/IMG_0002-1.jpg)
The three associated parts:
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/IMG_0004.jpg)
Don't get rid of that camera Leo, it takes some nice pictures. About the reel, I thought it was going to be a small piece. I've repaired reels in the past by drilling a small hole and gluing a piece of copper wire it the shape that I needed it to be and it always worked out. Your damaged piece is a little trickier, but, it des have lots of area to make contact with the glued, you just need to find the right glue. After seing what you have done with those plier, I have no doubt that you can fix it. Good luck! Sal
a gob of jb weld should do the trick. clean off the old glue and rough up the areas to be glued a little with sand paper. good luck
Some years ago I bought some High density PVC sheet goods. I intended to make a tackle box out of the material. Trying to glue the stuff proved to be a disaster. A few years went by, and I was working on my boat. In doing research for the boat I came across G/flex by West systems. Anyway I tried it on the HDPVC, it worked. Finally built a great tackle box. The G/flex works on most things that Epoxy's work on, and plastics. I have now used it to repair several things I thought were not repairable. Carbon fiber will bond to G/flex. I can't say G/flex will bond to your composite frame material, but it's worth a try. GOOD LUCK.
Leo: The piece that you are going to repair does not look like it will be stressed. If anything the shaft that will sit in the indentation will not put any side pressure on the part. I vote for JB Weld. It looks like there is room on the sides. I would build it up on the sides to give it more stability. Go for it. You have nothing to lose. Dominick
Hello
I concour with Dominick.
JB Weld one of my favorite products , use it for many fixes.
If you ever get a chance go to thier facility in SoCal,Very interesting.
It looks like you may be able to brace that piece from about the awl point to the outside of frame on right.
Can`t tell what caused the failure , it looks like just a pillow U groove for shaft that goes to the right outside frame. Are forces acting upon that piece from L tO R or vice versa ? I would not think there would be,but can`t tell.
Anyway Alto Mare is right. wadygottoloose
Let us know how it works out.
Buzz
here's another vote for JB Weld. I used it on a Newell frame for a 113h with some stripped screwholes and it stuck so I could screw into it.
Are you sure it's graphite? Hard to see clearly, but looks more like an aluminum alloy.
Thanx Guys,
JB Weld was my first thought and I will go with it. As stated I will rough-up/clean the area then build-up the right side for security. I'll then Dremel to shape. Its not a load-bearing/pressure point as stated. I was the cause of the break in taking the reel apart (too much force). Sal, Im not getting rid of the camera (had to fix it and bring it back from the dead when it was given to me). Didnt know JB factory in SoCal may check it out.
Well this is my second spinner that Ive worked on and I think it will work out with the minor repair. Thanx to you guys, Im not scared to service them (Ive learned more from this lesson). All 20 plus of my conventional reels are serviced (just need upgrades: handles, drags, etc), and about 4 more spinners to go.
Thanx to all,
Leo
honestly, i would send this photo to penn and see if you can get a new frame...... :-\
Quote from: alantani on July 14, 2012, 11:52:59 PM
honestly, i would send this photo to penn and see if you can get a new frame...... :-\
Cool! Penn stocks parts for Daiwa reels? ;)
sorry, having a senior moment..... :-\
I have had great results with Mr. Sticky. Not a bad joke an actual company.
http://mrstickys.com/
I had no idea JB Weld worked for that kind of thing-Thanks!
Maybe drill a teeny-tiny hole in both pieces and put in a small piece of SS (or similar) first to help take up any load/stress and then do the JB Weld thing? It would be kinda like making a post & crown for a tooth.
Thanx DD,
I will definitely take that into consideration. Excellent tip, know this will definitely take me into "professional over-run/backlash" mode.
Thanx guys,
Leo
Good tip DD. I've done something similar to some of my reels. If only I would have been able to do it to my teeth, I could have saved $20,000 :(.
That's how I got the idea! ;D We just need enough liquid-painkiller to get thru the operation (or is that stuff supposed to be only for the patient? I always forget). Oh well, just sit still and open wide for a minute...
Finally got around to finishing the repair. I thought I would post the results for those who may be unfamiliar with the results. Here goes:
This picture is of the initial bonding; just enough JB weld to affix the broken piece.
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/SPINNER%20REPAIR/IMG_0007.jpg)
Another view of the initial bonding.
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/SPINNER%20REPAIR/IMG_0003.jpg)
Close-up of additional layer of JB Weld to reinforce the bond.
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/SPINNER%20REPAIR/IMG_0013.jpg)
Another view.
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/SPINNER%20REPAIR/IMG_0014.jpg)
Last photo
(http://i1162.photobucket.com/albums/q535/LTM51/SPINNER%20REPAIR/IMG_0011.jpg)
I thought I might have to do some clean-up with the Dremel tool, however after a mock install of the parts I was happy to see that they all fit perfectly. I used a flat toothpick to mix and apply the JB Weld. JB Weld comes in tow styles quick setting and regular. I chose the quick set for this application so the small piece would set-up quickly. Now just need to remember how it goes back together. ::)
Hope this helps some of you guys and maybe salvage a reel from the trash,
Leo
Good job Leo. That JB Weld is good stuff. I used some to repair the big plastic coupling that holds the gas lines for my barbeque to the propane tank. Dominick
Good repair Leo, looks quite sturdy.
For those not familiar with JB Weld, here's some info from the web site regarding its properties and some uses (this is for the "regular" not the "quick" formula that I used which is very similar):
Use J-B WELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and electrical insulator. Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red tubes. Mix thoroughly. Clean surface to be bonded. Apply J-B WELD, and let it cure. That's all there is to it!
Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.
Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material.
The stuff costs approx $3 per package and can be purchased at most auto parts stores and even Wal-Mart. I always keep a couple or three packages on hand.
Leo