i have 7 abu swede reels and i want to remove the level wind on one of the older 6501 c3 reels and use it for maximum casting distance in the surf. anyone done this to an abu reel and any tips?
I think I remember seeing it done, Blakdog has parts if my memory serves me correct. Possibly Mike's as well.
You'll want a CT conversion bar.
you may want to try www.hookless.com. they may have exactly what you want to do. good luck
clean out all the levelwind parts with carb or brake cleaner, then dip in TSI 301, then take it fishing and see if you still think you need to remove the levelwind assembly, chances are you will not. ;D
Quote from: alantani on September 13, 2012, 07:18:31 PM
clean out all the levelwind parts with carb or brake cleaner, then dip in TSI 301, then take it fishing and see if you still think you need to remove the levelwind assembly, chances are you will not. ;D
been there, done that. thanx to you i got turned on to tsi301 and use it on all my reels. i need to hit about 100yds with 3nbait and right now barely hit 80 yards. would like to see if removing the lw gearing will add about 20yds to the toss. i spoke with jerry @ hookless and he advised just to remove the lw gear and guide, tape over the worm gear post, see how she goes. that's the plan, so far. thanx everyone!
Quote from: beachbob on September 13, 2012, 09:08:17 PM
been there, done that. thanx to you i got turned on to tsi301 and use it on all my reels. i need to hit about 100yds with 3nbait and right now barely hit 80 yards. would like to see if removing the lw gearing will add about 20yds to the toss. i spoke with jerry @ hookless and he advised just to remove the lw gear and guide, tape over the worm gear post, see how she goes. that's the plan, so far. thanx everyone!
Hi Bob,
Removing the LW assembly will no doubt add the extra yards you are wanting, though, I would suggest replacing the removed worm gear post with a conversion bar. Both the worm gear post and conversion bar aid in supporting the cage from warping. Warping happens due to the strains the cage is put under when power casting - or at times when reeling in something sizeable is attached to your end tackle. When the cage does warp, the lip on both the cage and the spool can come into contact. When this happens, the reel becomes problematic to function/operate smoothly. A conversion bar will keep it all nicely aligned and, more importantly, keep your reel issue free ;)
Quote from: Fish-aholic on September 13, 2012, 11:03:42 PM
Quote from: beachbob on September 13, 2012, 09:08:17 PM
been there, done that. thanx to you i got turned on to tsi301 and use it on all my reels. i need to hit about 100yds with 3nbait and right now barely hit 80 yards. would like to see if removing the lw gearing will add about 20yds to the toss. i spoke with jerry @ hookless and he advised just to remove the lw gear and guide, tape over the worm gear post, see how she goes. that's the plan, so far. thanx everyone!
Hi Bob,
Removing the LW assembly will no doubt add the extra yards you are wanting, though, I would suggest replacing the removed worm gear post with a conversion bar. Both the worm gear post and conversion bar aid in supporting the cage from warping. Warping happens due to the strains the cage is put under when power casting - or at times when reeling in something sizeable is attached to your end tackle. When the cage does warp, the lip on both the cage and the spool can come into contact. When this happens, the reel becomes problematic to function/operate smoothly. A conversion bar will keep it all nicely aligned and, more importantly, keep your reel issue free ;)
initially, to see if this will work well for me, i'll just remove the gear and pawl. it it works well, i'll replace the worm gear/post with the ct conversion bar and pull out the top bar for more thumb room.
Quote from: beachbob on September 14, 2012, 12:02:43 AMinitially, to see if this will work well for me, i'll just remove the gear and pawl. it it works well, i'll replace the worm gear/post with the ct conversion bar and pull out the top bar for more thumb room.
I misconstrued your earlier post. I thought you was going to remove the worm gear post and tape over the holes left behind. Sorry about that!
If you are going to be casting long range, that top bar does get in the way of a good thumb grip. A dremel can sort that out ;)
I usually replace the frame with a CT frame or an aluminum frame if I find a good deal on one. A bit more expensive, but looks better to me, especally the flat bar frame. If you are going all out, you can replace the gear in the left side plate with a bushing. It is supposed to cut wind resistance from the gear, allowing longer casts.
I though Abu has a surf casting version of the 6500 without a level guide? Or was it a 7000? If so, that may be the way to go.
Quote from: Bryan Young on September 14, 2012, 06:51:51 AM
I though Abu has a surf casting version of the 6500 without a level guide? Or was it a 7000? If so, that may be the way to go.
yep, they do. but i don't need yet another abu i already have a gaggle of 65/66/55/56 flavors already, and the conversion is easy on many levels.
Quote from: day0ne on September 14, 2012, 05:36:16 AM
... If you are going all out, you can replace the gear in the left side plate with a bushing. It is supposed to cut wind resistance from the gear, allowing longer casts.
sorry, i don't follow. do you mean to leave in the large gear that the spool drives and remove the smaller gear that drives the pawl worm?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/SAM_0869.jpg)
all done ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/SAM_0871.jpg)
That'll work. Very good !!!
locked on my fave rod (11' cabelas predator) and ready to hit the beach tomorrow for testing!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/DSC07792.jpg)
Go get them Beachbum....I mean Beachbob. Hope you have a great day out there.
Sal
Quote from: beachbob on September 14, 2012, 09:48:21 AM
Quote from: day0ne on September 14, 2012, 05:36:16 AM
... If you are going all out, you can replace the gear in the left side plate with a bushing. It is supposed to cut wind resistance from the gear, allowing longer casts.
sorry, i don't follow. do you mean to leave in the large gear that the spool drives and remove the smaller gear that drives the pawl worm?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/SAM_0869.jpg)
The bushing replaces the gear on the spool.
http://www.blakdogtackle.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_56&products_id=223
http://www.blakdogtackle.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_56&products_id=753
You remove them all, however, if you don't replace the gear on the spool with something, you can't adjust it. Either leave the gear on the spool or replace it with a bushing or "bullet" I see you didn't cut the top bar, making the reel truly topless (and easier to cast). They make inserts or studs to replace the top bar so you can screw the side covers on. Another reason I use CT frames. All the work is already done. Just change the frame and remove the gears
Quote from: day0ne on September 15, 2012, 06:16:27 AM
Quote from: beachbob on September 14, 2012, 09:48:21 AM
Quote from: day0ne on September 14, 2012, 05:36:16 AM
... If you are going all out, you can replace the gear in the left side plate with a bushing. It is supposed to cut wind resistance from the gear, allowing longer casts.
sorry, i don't follow. do you mean to leave in the large gear that the spool drives and remove the smaller gear that drives the pawl worm?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/SAM_0869.jpg)
The bushing replaces the gear on the spool.
http://www.blakdogtackle.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_56&products_id=223
http://www.blakdogtackle.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_56&products_id=753
You remove them all, however, if you don't replace the gear on the spool with something, you can't adjust it. Either leave the gear on the spool or replace it with a bushing or "bullet" I see you didn't cut the top bar, making the reel truly topless (and easier to cast). They make inserts or studs to replace the top bar so you can screw the side covers on. Another reason I use CT frames. All the work is already done. Just change the frame and remove the gears
it's all a test of sorts. if i like the "ct style" abu, i'll reverse the mod and get a blue yonder. :D
just back from a quick test workout with the ct modded reel and 11' predator rod. 3oz pyramid sinker inside a tennis ball had no problem hitting 90+ yards. piece of cake to toss and retrieve. winner! time to head out to the island. :)
this conversion has worked out so well i've taken it to the next step ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/fishing/DSC07795.jpg)
... loving a non-lw on the beach ... and now onto the "next step" ... ;D
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1347885584.jpg)
You most be from the Eastern side of the coast Bob. I hea of a lot of guys removing the levelwind on their reels, not only for casting, also for boat reels. Saltwater and levelwind don't get along very well :-\.
Nice modification you did there.
Nice Avet, what are your plants on that one?
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 17, 2012, 12:56:54 PM
You most be from the Eastern part of the state Bob. I hea of a lot of guys removing the levelwind on their reels, not only for casting, also for boat reels. Saltwater and levelwind don't get along very well :-\.
Nice modification you did there.
Nice Avet, what are your plants on that one?
Sal
for salt lures off the beach i mostly use a level wind abu, 6501 or 5501 - never ever had a problem in decades of using those reels. always use mono for plugging, 12# to 17#. i dunk 'em down after every session, and do a full tear down, clean and lube every winter. the lw is a godsend for making many hundreds of casts in a fishing session. you sacrifice a bit of distance with the lw, but not enuf for it to be a problem most of the time. for bait to reach my fishing spot's outer sandbar at a high tide, the lw reels just don't cut it for me, and bottom fishing doesn't require a fraction of the casts that plugging does.
this modded abu 6501 w/20# fireline worked great yesterday at the new york jones west end beaches, the tide was high when i got there and i plunked the bait right over the bar, about 90 yards out. only no fish caught - action along the beach was super slow for everyone, just a few shorts and a robin were all i saw caught. the new sx mc will get a respool of 20# or 30# fireline and we'll see how it goes next weekend. the water is finally starting to cool down and that should pick up the fishing. hopefully!
Glad to hear that lw is working out for you Bob, I might have to breack down and get me one of those Abu, haven't heard nothing but good things about it around here. I still fish mono on my ss spinners, how's that fireline? A few have recommended it to me but didn't try it yet.
used a 50# berkley fireline, was not happy with it...it snapped with less than 10 #s drag...
Quote from: Mel B on September 17, 2012, 04:47:38 PM
used a 50# berkley fireline, was not happy with it...it snapped with less than 10 #s drag...
I prefer uncoated spectra (JB or Izor) for most uses but Power Pro isn't bad for a coated line.
never had a problem in 3 years of 20# fireline use. i have it on 4 abu reels. i actually prefer it over power pro and that other spectra stuff. fireline is fused, not braided.