Tore down a friends Penn 30tw. All bearings had pressed in sheilds. All but one moves smoothly as if they were still packed well with grease. The one spool bearing in question moves freely but feels as though it's dry and there is an audible "click" to it and it feels a bit rough when I move it compared to the others. This may be a dumb question but.... since I can't open it without destroying the shield, should I replace the bearing or assume that since it's shieled it will probably be fine.
Help.
I would remove the shields,pack them with grease and put them back in.At least the one that is sounding not so good.
The rough bearing is dammaged and should be replaced.
on trolling reels i remove one shield then install the bearing with the shielded side facing out to protect from water intrusion. replace the bearing in question it is no good.
Get one of Alans Bearing Packers..
You can re-pack the bearings with Shields ON. (right through the shields).
Works great and saves a ton of time on reels...
If the bearing is rough, it is probably toast and needs replaced...
Keeping them packed with the Pressure Packer will keep that from happening again..
.
for a spool bearing, i like them open because i want the spool to spin freely. if it's rough already, i would replace it. you can try to clean it out, but that will only make it chatter more. if the noise doesn't bother you, and if you are only trolling anyway, then you could pack it with grease and then call it a day.
unless you are looking for great freespool, it probably doesn't matter that much.
I damaged a shield on a spool bearing. Do I need to replace the bearing or is it OK to leave it unshielded? The bearing itself runs smooth.
Would it make a difference which end of the spool goes unshielded? It's now manually packed with Yamaha Blue Grease.
leave it dont replace it, you can always face the shielded side out. if you are trolling then pack it with grease and youll be fine. the ones i worry about are the side plates, leave those shielded. i am still trying to get a packer for the larger bearings so i could pack them without removing the shield.
Maybe I didn't explain myself very well. The bearing shield that I damaged was on the handle side of the reel, where the spool shaft goes into the bridge. So, I'm guessing you call that the sideplate (?) It's a Penn 321GTi. I decided the shield wasn't damaged too severely, so I put it back on. I don't know how to remove these bearings yet (still lots to learn).
Quote from: kamuwela on January 16, 2013, 08:24:02 PM
leave it dont replace it, you can always face the shielded side out. if you are trolling then pack it with grease and youll be fine. the ones i worry about are the side plates, leave those shielded. i am still trying to get a packer for the larger bearings so i could pack them without removing the shield.
Kamu,
I left a set with Lois for her and you to try out. I don't think she is using it. You may want to ask her for it.
Bryan
Quote from: bb2fish on January 17, 2013, 12:28:47 AM
Maybe I didn't explain myself very well. The bearing shield that I damaged was on the handle side of the reel, where the spool shaft goes into the bridge. So, I'm guessing you call that the sideplate (?) It's a Penn 321GTi. I decided the shield wasn't damaged too severely, so I put it back on. I don't know how to remove these bearings yet (still lots to learn).
If the shield is damaged, pull the shield off and pack it with grease.
Those bearings are difficult to remove since they have been peened in.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4403.JPG)
If you look at the pic, you will see those little tabs holding the bearing in the bridge plate.
To get those out, I use a dremel to remove those tabs then the bearing can come out.
Hope this helps.
You know, that bridge is nice and beefy, but that bearing has to be the most senseless design I've ever seen. I guess they want you to purchase the hole bridge when the bearing fails :-\. Those bridges are not cheap.
Sal, I've replaced the bearing to save a few buck for our customers. Takes a bit of work, but it's possible.
I will also braze the gear sleeve post instead of buying a new bridge when the post spins. Saves a few bucks and I haven't had any return yet.
New would be easier...that's for sure.
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 17, 2013, 01:02:35 AM
Those bridges are not cheap.
I have several you can have real cheep. Replacing the bridge is often the deciding factor for scraping these reels for me.
Quote from: Keta on January 17, 2013, 01:26:04 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 17, 2013, 01:02:35 AM
Those bridges are not cheap.
I have several you can have real cheep. Replacing the bridge is often the deciding factor for scraping these reels for me.
Lee, if your message was ment for me, I thank you but I don't need one. I don't have any of those , I think I'm allergic to graphite, my hands don't feel right when I hold one :-\.
Pulling yer leg and waiting for the polisher to do it's job on something you just might need. It was a productive day :)
Hello Bryan,
I'm confused or my eyes must be getting tired.
Are the tabs that you are referring to, the silver outter edge of the bearing that looks like part of the bearing? Or is it the very tiny square indentation marks on the bronze surrounding the bearing?
What are you dremelling out? :-\
I'm asking because wow, I've got a penn 4/0 that I swear has to have some kind of tabs that I not aware of....whewww that bearing absolutely does not want to come out. :o
Quote from: franky on January 17, 2013, 02:10:35 AM
......the very tiny square indentation marks on the bronze surrounding the bearing...
Yes, it's called staking.
I'm dremelling out that "staking" in the bronze surrounding the bearing.
Once you get the bearing out by dremmel of the staking, do you put some new peen indentations to retain the new one?
You can but the bearing has a fairly tight press fit and I just push it in. If you do use a center punch and lightly tap it in 3 evenly spaced places.
Thanks folks for the response. :)
Just press the old bearing out and fit a replacement. Displace the brass interface in three places by carefully using a centre punch and it's in for good. ;)
I just leave it. The bearing does not have any negative effects if the bearing is floating.