If you remember from my previous posts, I managed to buy 4 Daiwa Sealine reels. Two of them are 50h's and two of them are 30H's. I had a 50h, when I was a teenager and I want to have some of that nostalgia back when the 50h provided so much reliable service during those El Nino years (mid-80's). I lost count of the number of yellow fin and skip jack that reel took in. So far, the parts total comes out to about $55 per reel. The reels will have a final cost of about $70 each. I know that some of you think that I am bat crazy, but my logic is that a new Sealine 300H is around $124. I hope to save on servicing the reels my self, so I should be ahead of the game. I guess a part of me wants to pay a small premium to relive my teenage years fishing on the overnight boats out of San Diego. Every time I pick up a 50h, the memories keep coming in.
I found a schematic for the 50H at PlanetSeaFishing.com. See link for the Sealine 50H. (I did find one error on a part number for the Click Spring. The part number is 160-7922, not 160-7921.
http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/daiwa/multiplier/daiwa-sealine.html
I saw a Craigslist ad for a bucket of Sealine Series reels, just a half mile from my house. I "cherry" picked the best four for $15 each.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-BnLNdWb/0/XL/4sealine-XL.jpg)
These reels will most likely be the last and only reels that I will buy for my newly acquired Malibu X-Factor Kayak. If I lose a rod or two over the side, it won't break the bank. I read a discussion forum where some kayakers have lost hundreds of dollars in one outing when they lose one of their custom setups. I could not imagine a $600 setup sinking into the abyss.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/2013-Malibu-X-Factor-Kayak/i-kcMMGDV/1/XL/photo-XL.jpg)
After taking one of them apart and getting a consensus that the innards were in decent shape, I decided to upgrade each of the reels. I am starting with the 50h's first.
As you can see, the outside suffered the worst. All chrome will be replaced if parts are available.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-j84ZJK8/0/XL/50h%20takeapart-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-snjFccd/0/XL/left%20outside-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-FT7gH32/0/XL/ouyside-XL.jpg)
The insides look like they are mostly corrosion free. I plan on cleaning the inside with old toothbrushes, Simple Green, and WD-40
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-JVwkmRn/0/XL/gears-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-Wx5F9XG/0/XL/spool2-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-R9Ngrfg/0/XL/teeth-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-BtVSJgS/0/XL/spool-XL.jpg)
I have three orders of parts coming in. The first order came 1 day after I placed it with Daiwa Corporate in Cypress, CA. (800) 736-4653 Very fast shipping. The photo below shows the parts for both reels. Double the cost and trouble! There are two left side plate rings in that bag, it just looks like there is only one. I did order stock drag washers. I know that Alan and others mentioned the Penn HT-100's. I went with stock, because I can understand the schematic. If you want to talk me out of it, I am all ears... :)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-MGQZrTZ/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-XL.jpg)
The other two orders are from Daiwa Corporate. I forgot to order some components on the first order. :( Daiwa still has the decal/badges for the 50h, including the line capacity badges. They are sending me a set of two for both of the reels. I managed to order all chrome pieces on the outside with the exception of the right side plate ring. It is attached to the right side plate and Daiwa does not stock this item anymore. They have less damage as the handle protected them from contact and some corrosion.
I noticed some differences in the clicker buttons: I don't like the stepped version on the right. I may call Daiwa to get the version on the left. If I am going to spend big bucks on a major overhaul, I figure I should get what I want, lol.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-kpk5TFP/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-2-XL.jpg)
I noticed that the DRAG WASHER A (Part 375-9902) was closed out and a new washer is recommended. (Part 375-9905)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Other/Kyak-Stuff/i-QL98w4Z/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-3-XL.jpg)
Thats all I have for now. I still need to open up the main gear assembly and clean out all of the old grease and minor corrosion. I will take some photos of the clean up and then the reassembly. Thanks for taking the time to read this post and feel free to send the suggestions. I have no clue what I am doing.....really! :)
I'm a newbie at reel repair and recently opened up a Daiwa 50H. It didn't have the nameplate badge, so at first I didn't even know what I was working with to get a schematic or parts list. The reel was slipping and not holding drag consistently when fishing (really sad when we lost a big chinook last fall). That's when I decided to get into reel maintenance. One of the factory drags was damaged and needed to be replaced. Dawn at Smoothdrag helped me with identifying the reel and getting the drag washer kit - I went with carbontex fiber material, she has a limited supply of these. I've found that taking digital pictures as you disassemble the reel is very helpful. Also, laying the parts down on a table in exactly the orientation you remove them (then taking a photo) will help answer a lot of questions when you put things back together. Guys on here are SO Helpful. Post pictures and ask questions. Have fun. You've got a great project going.
Since you already have the stock drag washers, I would probably go ahead and use them. The next time you need drag washers, I would definetly switch to greased carbontex. They will last forever. BTW, don't grease the stock washers.
Thanks for the feedback. I will be taking my oldest son to the Anza Borrego mud caves this weekend with his boy scout troop, so I won't be able to make progress for a few days. Hopefully I can disassemble and clean sometime next week. I have fit to fit the "hobbies" in between the dad responsibilities.
Thanks again for the information.
Dan
Dan -
I lived in San Diego County for about 30 years, went to the desert often, but never heard of the A-B mud caves. ???
Anyway, it looks like you guys are off to a good start on your Sealines. I changed the drags on my 350 and a friend's 50 to HT-100 and they work fine. My favorite source for Daiwa parts: Dave's parts & Service in Florida http://www.fishingreelparts.com/
Just follow Alan's suggestions for service (cleaning, greasing, lubing, etc.) and you'll like the results.
Good luck!
Quote from: norcal pescador on January 13, 2013, 07:01:07 PM
Dan -
I lived in San Diego County for about 30 years, went to the desert often, but never heard of the A-B mud caves. ???
Anyway, it looks like you guys are off to a good start on your Sealines. I changed the drags on my 350 and a friend's 50 to HT-100 and they work fine. My favorite source for Daiwa parts: Dave's parts & Service in Florida http://www.fishingreelparts.com/
Just follow Alan's suggestions for service (cleaning, greasing, lubing, etc.) and you'll like the results.
Good luck!
http://www.anzaborrego.net/Travel/AnzaBorrego/page/Anza-Borrego-Mud-Caves- :)
We visited there in the late 50's.
More parts came in on Saturday. There must have been a miscommunication as they only sent and billed me for 1 star drag, 1 clutch lever, and 1 clutch lever screw. I will order these parts on Monday to complete the parts ordering process for both of the 50h's. When it is all said and done, I will have about $70 in each reel which includes the $15 original cost of the reel and the $55 in parts for each reel. I know it was not necessary, but I wanted these reels to perform and look as new as possible. I still figure that they are built stronger than some of the Chinese reels made today. It is a free country and I guess I can be stupid about my money.... It will be a bummer if I lost one of these reels off my kayak, but not as bad if I lost a custom rig. That is what I keep telling myself..... :)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-VPhZFrm/0/XL/CA_01131322044691-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-sj7nNhQ/0/XL/CA_01131322045108-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-QW4fpkj/0/XL/CA_01131322045468-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-wnFmrqf/0/XL/CA_01131322045786-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-cbcmNBF/0/XL/CA_01131322050152-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-qgBpZBb/0/XL/CA_01131322050535-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-LLFdpQC/0/XL/CA_01131322050891-XL.jpg)
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 14, 2013, 06:19:17 AM
It is a free country and I guess I can be stupid about my money....
I put a $80.00 spool in a $35.00 reel, you aren't alone here.
Does anyone know if the right side plate ring can come off the reel? (Handle side of the reel.) It looks like the screws have a lock nut on the thread that prohibits the screw from coming completely out. I would like to take the chrome side plate ring off and polish both sides and add grease. With the screws in the way, I won't be able to accomplish this mission.
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 14, 2013, 06:19:17 AM
. . . . When it is all said and done, I will have about $70 in each reel which includes the $15 original cost of the reel and the $55 in parts for each reel. I know it was not necessary, but I wanted these reels to perform and look as new as possible. I still figure that they are built stronger than some of the Chinese reels made today. . . . .
That's a good investment. Solid frame, proven design, made with real metal, etc. I would do the same, plus you have the medallions and other cosmetic improvements.
The screws
should come out. A c-clip maybe?
I put a Kolekar 4/0 on my 350H and a 2/0 on my friend's 50H. Is a rod leash too much trouble on a 'yak?
Quote from: norcal pescador on January 14, 2013, 08:05:12 PM
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 14, 2013, 06:19:17 AM
. . . . When it is all said and done, I will have about $70 in each reel which includes the $15 original cost of the reel and the $55 in parts for each reel. I know it was not necessary, but I wanted these reels to perform and look as new as possible. I still figure that they are built stronger than some of the Chinese reels made today. . . . .
That's a good investment. Solid frame, proven design, made with real metal, etc. I would do the same, plus you have the medallions and other cosmetic improvements.
The screws should come out. A c-clip maybe?
I put a Kolekar 4/0 on my 350H and a 2/0 on my friend's 50H. Is a rod leash too much trouble on a 'yak?
Good points on the Rod leashes. I do intend to use them. I have heard that others have lost their reels for various reasons, so I know it is an on going concern.
I was trying to figure out how to release the right side chrome plate too -- no idea -- looks like there is a square swaged shoulder on the thumb screw shafts. Maybe if you held on to that square with a small wrench and twisted the thumbscrews with a screwdriver it would come apart (like a standoff shoulder screw). I ended up just cleaning what i could access, then jamming a brush under the chrome to get it greased. My daiwa 50H is just missing a name badge - where did you get yours? Could I have one of your old ones if you're going to toss them?
Quote from: bb2fish on January 16, 2013, 05:43:23 AM
I was trying to figure out how to release the right side chrome plate too -- no idea -- looks like there is a square swaged shoulder on the thumb screw shafts. Maybe if you held on to that square with a small wrench and twisted the thumbscrews with a screwdriver it would come apart (like a standoff shoulder screw). I ended up just cleaning what i could access, then jamming a brush under the chrome to get it greased. My daiwa 50H is just missing a name badge - where did you get yours? Could I have one of your old ones if you're going to toss them?
Daiwa Corporate in Cypress, CA. (800) 736-4653
They sold me the badges for .50 cents each. :) If you want my old ones, I will try to be gentle, but I think your best bet is going through Daiwa. There wasn't a part number. You have to specifically ask for both decals.
Thanks, I'll get some from Daiwa...with some other parts. Good Luck making yours pretty!! Post some photos as you go.
Quote from: day0ne on January 11, 2013, 05:35:48 AM
Since you already have the stock drag washers, I would probably go ahead and use them. The next time you need drag washers, I would definetly switch to greased carbontex. They will last forever. BTW, don't grease the stock washers.
I just spoke with Dawn today and I ordered the Carbontex. It turns out that she has only 500 sets left from the last of the material that she could get her hands on. I ordered a set for each reel. I will keep the stock drag washers as backups. I have this feeling I should purchase 2 more sets of Carbontex if I hold on to these reels over the next 20 years...lol. I also got some Cal's drag grease and a universal wrench to take the handles off my 30H's and 50H's. These reels should perform better than new when they are done.
Quote from: bb2fish on January 16, 2013, 05:43:23 AM
I was trying to figure out how to release the right side chrome plate too -- no idea -- looks like there is a square swaged shoulder on the thumb screw shafts. Maybe if you held on to that square with a small wrench and twisted the thumbscrews with a screwdriver it would come apart (like a standoff shoulder screw). I ended up just cleaning what i could access, then jamming a brush under the chrome to get it greased. My daiwa 50H is just missing a name badge - where did you get yours? Could I have one of your old ones if you're going to toss them?
I looked at this but it wasn't my reel so I didn't try to take them off. It looks like you can grab the sleeve with a pair of needle nose pliers and screw it off with a screw driver.
I got everything I need to tear down the 50h's now. No excuses! I ordered the second star drag that was missing and the clutch lever too from Daiwa. I got my order from Smoooth Drag for the Carbontex drag washers too. I will install them and use the Daiwa originals later, as backups if needed. I also ordered a much needed universal reel wrench and some Cal's drag grease. I have the Daiwa blue lube stuff and the Daiwa bearing oil light, (fluid) stuff for the bearings. I know that I only use the Cal's on the Cabontex washers.
On a nice note, I realize that I forgot to order the rubber O-rings from Daiwa on my last order. They go around the case metal to keep the salt water out. The technician looked at my previous orders and sent 4 of them to me for free. He even paid for postage. Very impressed with Daiwa customer service.
Here is a photo of the last of the parts below. I hope to tear into the first reel tomorrow and Monday. I really want to have the first reel finished and ready to go in the next couple of days.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-RZRkGnQ/0/XL/CA_01191322323534-XL.jpg)
Took the badges off the 50h with multiple coats of WD40 and Simple Green. Did I mention multiple? :) I managed to nick the anodized surface when prying off the stiff foil badges. It will look nice with all the other nicks and imperfections. I actually thought for a brief minute that I could send these reels out to be re-anodized. Then reality set in and I thought that new chrome would satisfy me just plenty.That glue was a bear to get off. I guess I will apply Acetone to the badge areas to remove oils and residue before I apply the new badges. The reel looks wet from the WD-40. It was dried off after the photos.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-hZ2dsz8/0/XL/CA_01191323595121-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-CPgtBng/0/XL/CA_01191323561606-XL.jpg)
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 20, 2013, 08:10:39 AM
I actually thought for a brief minute that I could send these reels out to be re-anodized. Then reality set in and I thought that new chrome would satisfy me just plenty
The frames on these reels are cast aluminum and don't anodise very well. Been there, done that! You can get them power coated but that brings up a whole new set of problems. I power coated a 600H and spent a week scraping power coat off in places so the reel would fit back together
Quote from: day0ne on January 21, 2013, 05:56:35 AM
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 20, 2013, 08:10:39 AM
I actually thought for a brief minute that I could send these reels out to be re-anodized. Then reality set in and I thought that new chrome would satisfy me just plenty
The frames on these reels are cast aluminum and don't anodise very well. Been there, done that! You can get them power coated but that brings up a whole new set of problems. I power coated a 600H and spent a week scraping power coat off in places so the reel would fit back together
Thanks for the info. I was wondering about powder coat tolerances. Did your reel look good after all of the effort?
I tried making a metal hook to remove this bearing from the old case metal. I was hoping to stick the old bearing in the new case metal that I purchased. The thought was that I could clean up the bearing and repack by hand an use it in my new shiny case metal part. Any ideas how to get the bearing out of there?
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-zw7LFgF/0/XL/CA_01271319211548-XL.jpg)
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 28, 2013, 06:59:40 AM
Quote from: day0ne on January 21, 2013, 05:56:35 AM
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 20, 2013, 08:10:39 AM
I actually thought for a brief minute that I could send these reels out to be re-anodized. Then reality set in and I thought that new chrome would satisfy me just plenty
The frames on these reels are cast aluminum and don't anodise very well. Been there, done that! You can get them power coated but that brings up a whole new set of problems. I power coated a 600H and spent a week scraping power coat off in places so the reel would fit back together
Thanks for the info. I was wondering about powder coat tolerances. Did your reel look good after all of the effort?
It looks pretty good. See for your self
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4783.msg39763#msg39763
Quote from: dbarnett66 on January 28, 2013, 07:05:12 AM
I tried making a metal hook to remove this bearing from the old case metal. I was hoping to stick the old bearing in the new case metal that I purchased. The thought was that I could clean up the bearing and repack by hand an use it in my new shiny case metal part. Any ideas how to get the bearing out of there?
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-zw7LFgF/0/XL/CA_01271319211548-XL.jpg)
Do I have to treat these bearing delicately when removing them or can I dig them out. I would hate to order new bearings. I spent way too much on parts already. :)
Frankly speaking, those Daiwa bearings last a very long time. This is because when I opened them up, I discovered that they are well packed with grease. If you want to pack even more grease in those bearings, no cleaning is necessary, just put grease in the cup with the grease needle like in Alan's kit so it overflows, and push the grease in with your fingers over the opening and repeat. You will see the normal bearing grease exit between the inner race and the shield.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 28, 2013, 08:38:02 PM
Frankly speaking, those Daiwa bearings last a very long time. This is because when I opened them up, I discovered that they are well packed with grease. If you want to pack even more grease in those bearings, no cleaning is necessary, just put grease in the cup with the grease needle like in Alan's kit so it overflows, and push the grease in with your fingers over the opening and repeat. You will see the normal bearing grease exit between the inner race and the shield.
Thanks Bryan! That is good to know. I still want to remove the bearings from the case metal because I bought new case metal parts to add some bling to the outside part of the reel. I will certainly pack the bearings once they are in the new case metal with the method you describe. I am just not sure how to remove the bearings without damaging them. Thanks in advance.
I am going to give up on removing the bearing and get a new one. It is wedged way too tight. Prying with multiple tools, WD-40 and other stuff doesn't seem to work. I guess I will be calling Daiwa corporate in the morning. I know that I could leave it in and repack, but I bought new case metal parts to make the reels look new again. I was hoping the bearings would cooperate.
I called Daiwa corporate and could not figure why the bearing was not listed on the diagram. Turns out the case metal has the bearing already built in. I had ordered two of them and you can plainly see them in a photo earlier in the thread. I can't believe that I wasted an hour trying to remove a bearing that I did not need to remove. Live and learn....
I did order two new bearings for the handle side of the reel. These reels are not going to be cheap when they are done, but they would work better than new with the Carbontex washer upgrades and new parts. We are looking at $100 per reel with new bling and internal components. I have to keep telling myself that my investment is better than some of the newer cheaper reels. Lol :)
I'm sorry for not answering your question about bearing removal. I though you were referring to only packing the bearings.
the bearing cups have little tabs pressed out to keep the bearing in place. I've dremeling the tabs off like on Penn's GTI series reels and replaced bearings and learned that based on parts (replacement bearing) and the labor involved in removing the bearing, it's cheaper to just replace the bearing and cup together. If you are looking for free spool, you can only open one side of the bearing, and clean it out with force air and solvent. As most of my customers do not use these reels for casting, I just pack the bearings as I had described with grease for added protection. But as I had also said earlier, these bearing are packed with grease better than any bearin that I have seen and have lasted the longest over time/usage than any other reel that I have serviced in the past.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 31, 2013, 12:22:03 AM
I'm sorry for not answering your question about bearing removal. I though you were referring to only packing the bearings.
the bearing cups have little tabs pressed out to keep the bearing in place. I've dremeling the tabs off like on Penn's GTI series reels and replaced bearings and learned that based on parts (replacement bearing) and the labor involved in removing the bearing, it's cheaper to just replace the bearing and cup together. If you are looking for free spool, you can only open one side of the bearing, and clean it out with force air and solvent. As most of my customers do not use these reels for casting, I just pack the bearings as I had described with grease for added protection. But as I had also said earlier, these bearing are packed with grease better than any bearin that I have seen and have lasted the longest over time/usage than any other reel that I have serviced in the past.
No problems Bryan. This site has been so helpful. I appreciate all of the replies from you and the others. There is a learning curve that has to be mastered. :) Just waiting on the bearings and this reel should be cleaned and ready to go in the next couple of days.
Completed the easy end of the reel first. The chrome ring side plate was replaced as well as the clicker button. Case metal containg the spool bearing was replaced as well as a clicker spring on the inside of the reel. There some washer parts missing from the previous owner, so yet another order goes in today. I also managed to clean the bridge, springs, gears, etc. I will spend more time tonight figuring out out the puzzle pieces. I applied the Daiwa blue grease to the side plate, screws and underneath too. Should have more protection than it did before.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-wb4nKBG/0/XL/CA_02041308272251-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-fBrRnHb/0/XL/CA_02041308281989-XL.jpg)
nice work.
Thanks Bryan. I am stumped about these two parts. I am dry fitting, and for the life of me I can't figure how that spring is secured in place. I can see and indent where the spring fit under the brass eccentric cam, but I have to twist the eccentric cam clockwise to get the spring to fit properly under the eccentric cam. The problem is that if I let go, the spring wants to slip out. Am I missing something? How does the right side of the spring stay secured? I looked at Alan's 50h tutorial, but I must be missing something because it looks like his spring is compressed enough to allow proper alignment. Should I pinch the spring with some pliers to get the alignment right?
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-k8GK5kg/0/XL/CA_02061323201108-XL.jpg)
Quote from: dbarnett66 on February 07, 2013, 07:28:09 AM
Thanks Bryan. I am stumped about these two parts. I am dry fitting, and for the life of me I can't figure how that spring is secured in place. I can see and indent where the spring fit under the brass eccentric cam, but I have to twist the eccentric cam clockwise to get the spring to fit properly under the eccentric cam. The problem is that if I let go, the spring wants to slip out. Am I missing something? How does the right side of the spring stay secured? I looked at Alan's 50h tutorial, but I must be missing something because it looks like his spring is compressed enough to allow proper alignment. Should I pinch the spring with some pliers to get the alignment right?
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-k8GK5kg/0/XL/CA_02061323201108-XL.jpg)
I think I found my answer. I don't have the clutch lever installed on the outside of the reel that provides the necessary tension to keep the eccentric ring compressed. I will try tomorrow and see if this works. Since I did a complete tear down of this reel, the tutorial will only go so far. Still, it is a very helpful resource. Thanks Alan.
Just have to apply the new badges/decals to the reels tomorrow. I am wiped out and my camera is dead. I will post some photos tomorrow when the reels have the bling and eye candy on. Everything seems to work. Not sure how to test the drag though. Your thoughts would be welcome. The reels should give me a lifetime of service with the new parts and upgraded Carbontex washers. After the decals go on then I start the next 50h after that. I still have 2 more 30H's to go after that. Will the sickness ever end?
Thanks Alan for the 50h tutorial. You saved me hours as the schematic that I have is not the best quality. You provide an awesome site and there a ton of good people here.
Thanks for all of your help. Photos are coming tomorrow. ;D
The reel still has some blems, scratches, and some "patina", but it is rock solid. Can someone point out how to test the drag strength. Do you use a fishing scale? Thanks for all of the help and motivation. On to the next 50h.
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-Pg9SZGj/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-5-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-wFNCrjT/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-7-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-qQGmNsw/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-6-XL.jpg)
(http://dbarnett.smugmug.com/Sports/Reel-parts/i-wB2HbzW/0/XL/original%20crop%20%281%20of%201%29-9-XL.jpg)
Yep, use a scale with a tell tale or marker and pull untill the drag slips and read the scale. A lot of people like to mount the reel on a rod andthread the line through the guides and pull that way. This is probably the most accurate but I've never found but a lb or, at the most 2, difference when pulling straight off the reel. Your mileage may vary
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but my Sealine Series reels did not perform as expected. I had three 15-20 pound Yellow Fin run at will with the drag tightened all the way down. I must have messed up on the placement of washers or shims. It felt tight when pulling by hand, but those fish had to much run. Will another metal shim add the necessary friction/pressure that is needed? Thanks in advance.
Dan
Quote from: dbarnett66 on August 03, 2015, 07:28:25 PM
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but my Sealine Series reels did not perform as expected. I had three 15-20 pound Yellow Fin run at will with the drag tightened all the way down. I must have messed up on the placement of washers or shims. It felt tight when pulling by hand, but those fish had to much run. Will another metal shim add the necessary friction/pressure that is needed? Thanks in advance.
Dan
Bryan has a larger drag stack that will increase the drag. You just drop it in.
But YFT will easily pull 15lbs of drag, even the little ones. :D
You don't want to snub them short most times unless they are truly dinks. You want them to run and get tired. Remember, you are off shore and they don't even know what the bottom looks like all of their lives probably. :)
scratch repair, I have found appliance paint/markers and or nail polish will work, not the best, but I failed finger painting in kindergarten so what do you expect?