Greetings
New to the board first time poster. Been maintaining the "vintage" penns for about 20 years now. Just started using drag grease a few months ago. Thank you Alan!!!
Anyway, I recently aquired a gently used Penn 40GLS. I followed Alan's tutorial on the 45GLS. I have looked high and low and cannot find a schematic for the 40GLS. Seen the 45 and 25, but not the 40.
Has anyone seen one? Is the 45 close enough to use? What about parts?
Thanks Scott
try this. https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/40gls.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/40gls.pdf)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Thanks George!
The last time I looked at mysticparts they had it listed as "not available".
Any idea if this 40GLS reel was made for some other market, like Europe? It doesn't seem to be common in the US.
Scott
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
i don't know how many were made, but i'm sure there were not that many. they have been discontinued for quite sometime. some parts are available from mysticparts.com. they also appear to be the only ones with a schematic. penn and mikesreelrepair.com do not have one. alan
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Hi Guys,
I am officially infected with this reel repair sickness. Now people are giving me their old reels, if I want them. This reel is mine for the taking, but I think it is a 40GLS and I have read that it is not really something worth having, and parts are getting scarce.
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/S3010248-1.jpg)
The drag and plate looks good,
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/S3010261-1.jpg)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/S3010254.jpg)
but the gears have some surface rust.
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/S3010265-1.jpg)
The teeth look good though and I think I can clean off the rust and use it.
It seems to spin fine, so the bearings seem ok - they all have oil on them and no corrosion I could see.
I don't have a lever drag, so I am interested, but is this even worth having?
being officially infected you have to clean it up and take it fishin.
Lets hope that it doesn't fall apart on you while using it, that reel is a real mess, from the looks it appears that it was never opened.
Quote from: alantani on December 12, 2009, 11:46:31 PM
i don't know how many were made, but i'm sure there were not that many.
Thank goodness for that! I never liked those reels.
I own 2 penn 45 GLS reels. I havent cracked them open yet, but the picture of the drag in the post looks like a carbonoid drag washer. The 45 gls never had a smooth drag, even new it was always jerky, thats why I ended up buying TLD 20's with their superior smoothness. Is Cal's drag grease this reels answer to silky drag smoothness? Is this reel strong enough for braid?
Is this what you are looking for?
http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/downloads/penn/multiplier/penn-series/40gls.pdf
hey irish.is that the drag washer between 55/29.with no #.just wondering what it was made of
Hi wallacewt, there is a "Metal Drag Washer" #7 with four small holes surrounding the bore in that area. Is this the one? Sorry but I am not familiar with this reel although it appears popular in the UK.
a part is missing
So, not even worth having for free? Should I suggest my friend try to sell it on fleabay or dump it directly into the trash bin?
Smeone is selling ( 5 ) 45 gls right now on fleabay they're up to almost $8 a piece,with a couple of hours left. Make sure your friend sets a reserve to cover his listing costs :-\
Didn't own a 40GLS, but did purchase new a 25 and a 45GLS back when they were new. The 25GLS was basically a smaller topless version of the larger GLS reels with two anti-reverse dogs fitted. It was always smoother than the 45 and not as bulky or (I think someone at one stage referred to the 45 as "truck-like"), which is a more than fair comment. Like many older Penn reels some parts are getting becoming difficult to procure such as the correct bearing/pinion etc without having to start spending big modifying the rest of the reel. If the reel is worth it to you (ie; its sentimental or you intend on keeping it for many years to come) then it is definately worth spending the $$ on (like I did with my 25), however I decided to ditch the 45 on eBay after spending around $50 on it but I was lucky I found a buyer who knew they were getting a well maintained mint condition reel that would last them many many years to come - got $90 for it. You may not be so lucky should you decide to fix-up then sell...
Mako, I must admit I never found the drag jerky on the 45, you may have had something not quite right with your reel from new. Penn did mod the reels at one stage and added a different bearing and pinion to the right hand side plate, which makes just replacing the bearing a bit more pricey.
I still like my 25 (still like new) as it is nice, smooth and light (lighter than the 113H's I also use) and perfect for what I do with it as I fish an open spool when bottom fishing.
Regards,
Dave
Taily, What I meant by jerkiness is that it took more energy to get the spool started turning under pressure from a fish. The fish would bend the rod, then the spool would started turning then it would slow down, then load up again. When I used a tld 20 for the first time, the drag was smoooooth. I was hooked, and never really used the 45's much after that. I'm hoping Cals drag grease will make a world of difference in the drag. I just gotta clear the cobwebs outta the reels and see.
OK, so I got the 40 working, but the cranking is rough due to the bearing on the pinion gear. I can't get the bearing or the pinion gear out of the side plate.
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/20130409_180306.jpg)
There appears to be a bushing in the plate that prevents me from driving it out from the outside face and I can't pull it out from the inside.
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/wolvieweb/20130409_180649.jpg)
I left it in p-blaster overnite to make sure rust was not the issue, but no help.
Any helpful suggestions? Is it not supposed to be removable or do I need a special technique?
Didn't realise this post was here.
The bush isn't (or at least isn"t meant to be) removable.
To get the bearing out you need a similar tool to the one used to get the small bearing out of a 113H cup. Something like a rivet mandrel flattened down with a hammer at one end and then shapped into a hook like prying device.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4131.JPG)
Takes patience but usually it will come out easily enough.
How did you go?
Dave