Hi guys. I am in the process of servicing an old Penn International 30 that was given to me as a gift. It has the old style #117-30 drive plate with an asbestos drag washer ring that goes under it. I want to replace both with the newer dura drag drive plate assemble from Scotts #117DN-30. On their site, and I also just spoke to a lady at the store, it says you need to replace the pinion gear too because there is a newer revised style that will fit the teeth on the dura drag drive plate. However, they are out of this part.
Does anybody here have one of the newer pinion gears they are willing to sell or know how I can get a hold of one?? Another option I think would be to get a drag washer made to the specs of the old one but made out of newer non asbestos! material. Anybody know how I could get my hands on something like that?
Any input or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks guys!
Augie
ok, this is where the nice lady from smoothdrag comes in and says it's time to make a drag washer for these older penn internationals.
Weren't we just talking about this Alan? Low and behold. Maybe we should have followed through. Arg.
Is the drag attached to a plate?
Dawn
No, the washer I have is a donut like stand alone piece.
Quote from: Augie3000 on June 03, 2013, 03:24:23 PM
No, the washer I have is a donut like stand alone piece.
Argh! The asbestos donut. I upgraded my 50V with the 117DN-80 and the performance is much improved. Keep looking and I hope you find the pinion. You might try giving Cal's 2-speed a call and see if they can help. ???
Try Cal and maybe Pure Fishing first. http://www.purefishing.com
If none of that works out, maybe you could adapt something I have.
I don't know if this type of reel comes up that often, to make it worth doing the drag specially for it.
Dawn
Here is the list of all Penn warranty centers. Surely one of them would have it.
www.pennreels.com/service/warranty-centers (http://www.pennreels.com/service/warranty-centers)
Maybe you can make one from a carbonx sheet ?
It would be real nice if Smooth drag would make Carbontex drags for the older Penn Intl.
even if we have to scrape them off and re glue new washers to the drive plates.
I am also in need of donut (floating) drag washers for Penn 30 reels. Smoothdrag will make us some if enough people ask!
Alan, have you talked to Dawn about making these drag washers for the old Penn Intl's yet ?
i am sure there is a market for them with so many of them out there and nothing to really
use that's reasonably priced.
she knows. it's a business decision for her, and not an easy one. a large washer that is triple thjick going to be two to three times the price of the $19 tld 20/25 washer. :-\
Sure hope someone can work this out, got four vintage 30's off ebay and had no idea there was a problem with replacement drags. Personally, I'll be willing to pay 50 to 60 bucks to get somekind of replacement.
Seriously..?
In desperation you might try the following:
Probably cost around $10-15 to try this. Give Dawn the dimensions of the puck and she should be able to find the best sized TLD type washer that can be cut down.
Rough up the hockey puck and glue it to the pressure plate. Turn down the pressure plate/ puck to allow for a carbontex washer to be glued in place. Glue the carbon disk to the puck. Before gluing the puck in place mark a carbontex drag so it can be cut to size ( scissors on the outside and knife or paper punch on the inside). The issues will be if the glue used will be affected by the drag heat.
Let us know if this works out,
Jim N
Quote from: Robert Janssen on November 13, 2013, 07:02:09 PM
Seriously..?
Well after having paid several hundred bucks for them, it would be worth it for me rather than to scrap them.
No, i meant seriously? in reference to something else. Never mind; just blurted a thought aloud.
Listen, this cannot be the most complicated thing in the world. It is a donut. A flat donut, at that.
Two CFs bonded to something inbetween to an approximate thickness (the 3.2 mm mentioned are likely in reality a nominal 3.175 mm, which happens to be 1/8" which often happens to be the sheet thickness of common friction materials, like Penn used originally.) is not too difficult to achieve.
An exact thickness is likely not necessary. An even 3.0 mm is close enough. Someone mentioned earlier, having 1.4 mm CF sheets. Well there you go- two of those back-to-back = 2.8 mm; pretty close already. If is a matter of keeping the spool centered, poke a 0.4 mm shim in there, and bingo- you're done.
So the question has been raised, what to use to bond it to. Well, almost anything that is flat and bondable, and capable of withstanding a couple of hundred degrees celsius. And preferably somewhat flexible, cheap, easily worked and easily available.
Some suggestions:
Hockey puck: no
Fake marble countertop: no
Sheet of hi-temp / hi-pressure gasket material: yes
Metal: semi-yes (not as easily worked)
Polycarbonate: some, yes
Nitrile rubber: no
Cork / rubber gasket sheet: naw
Hi-temp fiberglass sheet: yes
Aramid paper: yes
Original friction material: yes
Masonite: no
And fwiw there isn't really anything to stop you from bonding it to one or the other side of the existant metal washers.
.
Thanks Robert, guess if i try this, gonna use hi temp. gasket material. What are a couple of bonding agents you could suggest?
Dave,
The reason for bonding to the pressure plate (not the spool side) is to allow for free spool without a hockey puck clanking around and to make it similar to the current PENN design. Using the old puck is simply to give you a drag mounting that is close in size.
You may be lucky enough where the system will operate without turning down the puck thickness ( test this by free floating the puck and the carbon disk and see if the drag will free spool properly).
As far a heat is concerned the majority of the heat will conduct to the spool side pressure plate. The carbon fiber will transmit very little heat to the puck. Carbon fiber makes a great heat shield. On an old disk try torching it and see the fibers glow red hot while the other side remains smoke free.
Epoxy has worked on Avet drag (clamp it firmly while it cures to keep everything flat) and it keeps water out.
Jim N.
Oh! Now i get it- hockey puck = old donut drag washer.
I seriously thought you meant a real hockey puck, as in a 3" x 1" hunk of vulcanized rubber. Good for a lot of things, but kind of an odd way to go for a reel drag. Duh. Sorry.
Anyway, yes- as said, just bond new cf to the old donut drag washer.
.