I have been tying a bunch of mono to braid lately but I have no experience with hollow core. I would love to buy some spools from Alan at Black Pearl and some rigging needles and keep up with the Jones' but it is a lot of money. Is theor any advantage to hollow core loop to loop conections over a Yucatan knot other than the fact that the loop goes through the eyes better? I've even tied a piece of heavy mono onto braid and them put a surgeon's loop in the mono so I can swp leaders, if you haven't tried it it works great. I have complete faith in the surgeon's loop as I have caught fish on it for many decades, I'm just wondering what I'm missing not using hollow.
Ron
The main reason I like hollow is that you can replace bad sections with an inline splice that is 100%. The fact that you can also perform knotless loops for loop to loop connections or if you prefer a mono/fluoro insertion with a serve or sato crimp is nice also.
What conchy said is spot on for hollow use. When connecting spectra to mono/fluoro of 60lbs or less I tie, mono/fluoro over 60lbs I like hollow for other connections and can change toppers quickly after landing big fish. I can tie the connection I use for spectra to mono almost as fast as it takes to do the cats paw though. I have not used the spectra from Black Pearl but I have found hollow spectra of 50lb and less a PITA to open and work with.
Hollow lays flatter on your spool and does not dig in as bad.
SoCal,
Power Pro Ace in 40lb works well but it's coated. I build a lot of 25lb and 30lb topshots using JB 40 hollow and it's a PIA but it can be done, 60 works much better but is too large for 25lb.
Thanks for the heads up Keta but I will never buy PP spectra. I know things seem to have changed since Shimano bought them and they do have new lines but the amount of failures I have seen and heard about them having has turned me away from their product. I have a spool of 300 yards of 40lb that was giving to me in a goodie bag at a tourney 3 years ago and as of yet have not brought myself to use it.
Is it Ace? If you want to get rid of it how much do you want for it?
No, its not Ace and most likely I will give it to one of the pinnhead kids working on one of the sportboats. I had forgot I had it until a couple of days ago when I saw it or I would of given it to one of the kids by now.
The main advantage is no knots. ALL knots will weaken Spectra or mono. There is no 100% knot. Splicing hollow will get you as close to 100% that is possible.
I understand the knot issue, but I've been tying knots for decades and catching fish, I just think the knot deal isn't that big of an issue.
Ron
Quote from: SoCalAngler on June 13, 2013, 05:41:35 AM
What conchy said is spot on for hollow use. When connecting spectra to mono/fluoro of 60lbs or less I tie, mono/fluoro over 60lbs I like hollow for other connections and can change toppers quickly after landing big fish. I can tie the connection I use for spectra to mono almost as fast as it takes to do the cats paw though. I have not used the spectra from Black Pearl but I have found hollow spectra of 50lb and less a PITA to open and work with.
Then, I guess you should try my 40# or 65# hollow.
Quote from: noyb72 on June 13, 2013, 07:02:10 AM
I understand the knot issue, but I've been tying knots for decades and catching fish, I just think the knot deal isn't that big of an issue.
Ron
Knots can hang up in your guides reducing your casting distance, L2L or direct spliced connections flow through the guides.
As Keta said knots will hinder casting. My topshots are either longer than the casts I can make for reels I use for casting often, like my surface iron setups, or shorter then the rods length on other setups in the under 60lb topper class. This way with the short topshots the knot will be outside of the rods guides while casting so no worries about them getting caught up.
Knots for line over 60# are a problem going thru guides. So they made bigger guides. As to a knot for going thru the guides, or lack of say with a long top shots a Albright is great. It only has a little over a double line profile. That is way better than say a Uni. This all depends on what you fish for, how heavy the drag settings, and if the added costs are worth it to you.
Just as a reference MOST of my fishing, larger Tuna, etc. it is worth it. I cast iron with a short 15ft. wind-on. The thing goes thru the guides like there was a single piece of line. Failures go way down. The wind-ons should be made at your leisure. This avoids tying knots during a hot bite. It provides versatility as I carry many sizes, made up ready to go.
Hi guys,
I've been struggling with the hollow core issue and if I might share...
I bought some Toro Tamer hollow core in several weights, along with a Sato crimp set. So far, I'm not lovin' it. It's not quite the next thing to sliced bread that the folks selling it claim it is.
Previously, I've been a big fan of the PR Knot. I posted on another thread about why I like the PR bobbin over the fly-tying - I like the weight, as it acts like a fly wheel when spinning. You can get the wraps as tight as you need.
Anyway, my PR knots have performed flawlessly. They are strong, durable and shoot through the guides with little (no more than a Sato crimp) friction or "bump." I am posting a picture of 80lb mono wrapped with #50 XP.
(http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u527/tpilk1/image_zps97404927.jpg) (http://s1320.photobucket.com/user/tpilk1/media/image_zps97404927.jpg.html)
(http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u527/tpilk1/image_zps35af6cf5.jpg) (http://s1320.photobucket.com/user/tpilk1/media/image_zps35af6cf5.jpg.html)
I have had a Sato crimp fail, though it was very likely a rookie mistake?? Jury is still out as I need to perfect my technique. That said, I have NEVER had a PR Knot fail.
My use is mostly short, 10-12ft shock leaders for abrasion resistance. I will attach an 80lb mono leader to #50 or #65 braid.
For in line slices/repairs, hollow core would certainly make more sense. For attaching shock leaders and even topshots, there is nothing wrong (and a whole lot right) with a PR knot!
Any thoughts on the PR knot?
Chip
L2L changes out much faster than that knot.
For leader I'm not sure that I'm doing it right.
I purchase a small spool of 130lb JB, cut 6ft splice 3ft of 80-100lb mono into it, and mainline into the remaining 3ft.
The reason of using the short lenght of 130lb JB is that I've failed to splice 80lb mono into 60lb JB, and nothing manage to goes into the 40lb JB.
I'm still seeking faster method to change out leader, not quite catching the loop to loop connections method yet.
L2L with Nubs. Love it. Gave up crimps a long time ago. They sell because the appeal is quick with the crimp. But premade L2L leaders are quick, and I have never had a failure.
Quote from: Nuvole on June 18, 2013, 04:41:58 PM
.......The reason of using the short lenght of 130lb JB is that I've failed to splice 80lb mono into 60lb JB, and nothing manage to goes into the 40lb JB.
Toss the crimps and use two 10 turn nail knots using 30 or 40 spectra.
For 80lb mono you need to use 100 or 130 Spectra, 40 JB hollow is tricky but it can be done with 30 and under.
Quote from: Normslanding on June 18, 2013, 07:42:26 PM
L2L with Nubs. Love it. Gave up crimps a long time ago. They sell because the appeal is quick with the crimp. But premade L2L leaders are quick, and I have never had a failure.
Actually, they sell because they are advertised as being the best and closest to 100% connection. I'm certainly not looking for a "quick" fix. The Sato kits aren't cheap either.
To Lee's comment, I am a fan of served connections...though the 30 or 40 spectra Lee is recommending seems heavy. Is that what's commonly used for these connections?
Packaged leaders have their own issues, for one, you can run out, loan them all out or lose them. I think you still need a hand-tyed backup plan.
20 tends to cut into the mono, I use 30 for up to 80lb and 40 for anything larger.
Quote from: tpilk on June 19, 2013, 02:00:07 AM
I think you still need a hand-tyed backup plan.
Yup. I usually have plenty of topshots pre made but occasionally I've had to use a knot.
Quote from: Keta on June 19, 2013, 01:13:17 AM
For 80lb mono you need to use 100 or 130 Spectra, 40 JB hollow is tricky but it can be done with 30 and under.
Hi Lee,
This could be part of my bad experience. I was inserting 80lb mono into #50 Toro Tamer. As I mentioned before I am looking for 10-12ft of good abrasion resistance.
The 80lb inserted (5-6ft) into the 50 hollow core with no problem and the 50lb crimp slid over with some tension, but also no problem.
When I tested the connection (on the scale) and I did pull over the normal drag setting for this setup (about 25lbs), it appeared the mono was stretching and as it relaxed, it would leave the braid slightly bunched up in a few places. I can only assume the crimp wasn't holding as the mono should not be allowed to stretch internally (inside the HC). The result being I was not confident to fish with the connection (I consider that a failure). I will try the same connection with a served finish instead of the crimp.
Just might be a Sato kit in the "For Sale" thread in the near future!
Steal this thread a bit...
So the ideal of the loop to loop connection is as below?
1. Wind on leader, splice in mono to hollow core and make a 4" or so loop.
2. Splice a loop on the main line.
3. Join the wind on leader loop to loop.
What about the 40lb JB? Have anyone successfully splice a loop on them? If yes, kindly advise the needle used please.
It's tricky but if you run the smallest loop puller down the line first it's not that bad.
After making a dozen of wind on leader, something came into my mind. Is it not the loop to loop joint which is the weakest link? If so, what's the benifit of using wind on's as the FG knots works faster than making a loop on the mainline + wind on for me?
Quote from: Keta on June 19, 2013, 06:41:14 PM
It's tricky but if you run the smallest loop puller down the line first it's not that bad.
Yeah, after several attempts I finally make a spliced end loop with the 40lb.
I use the Daho RL0420(OD=0.42"/1.06mm) and the line did "flip" inside out.
Its very tricky indeed, and I won't not recommend making them onboard of a rolling boat.
I try to have several topshots on spools when I head out but I've done it so m any times I can splice loops on small boats.
I do Bimini to Bimini. Dominick
I use a Bimini too but lately I've gone to a surgeons loop with another tuck for solid Spectra.
After working on quite a bit of 60lb and 40lb JB multi-color today, I found that the dark brown is most difficult to work with. They tends to be very sticky and the dye tends to stick onto my fingers. Soaking the new lines into warm water does help a bit.
Note that the above is my one day experience and have no scientific proven reason. Maybe I should get "myth buster" to prove my point lol.
Lee,
Does another tuck mean going through the overhand knot a third time? I've seen several people do that, haven't tried it yet.
Ron
Yes.
Cool,
The surgeon's loop has been my go to knot for ever. I'll start trying it with the third wrap.
Ron