I have a PENN Silver Beach No. 99 with a little bit of pitting on the side rings and am wondering if there is something I should do to fix it and then also what I should do to prevent it further? I have looked thru the boards and searched and did not find anything on the topic of fixing the pitting. I did see somewhere on Google that a guy suggested to use steel wool and scrub it till it is gone but wouldn't that also remove the chrome plating? And is there something like chrome plating touch up paint to fix it? Obviously I am new at this type of reel. I have been fishing a long time at the surf but always with a spin cast reel and finally decided to take it up a notch. Thanks for your time and any help.
Fit three new rings and it should look like a new reel. ;D
Don't use steel wool!
The look of the chrome will instantly deteriorate badly! It'll look blue and cloudy, and to be honest, you'll likely have more corrosion problems after you've done it. It's way too coarse for this.
If you want to try a little Brasso, or a similar metal polish, to polish them up a little you can, but be careful to use a soft cloth, and not to polish too hard, or you'll put microscratches into the remaining chrome, with the same blue, scratched appearance that the wool will give you.
Regard the corrosion spots as character, and after cleaning well, under hot running water (after you've disassembled the reel!) to remove any salt, rub some Cal's grease into the spots (that stuff sticks like s--t to a blanket), and that will inhibit the corrosion continuing. Do that every time you use the reel, and it'll not get much worse.
As Irish said, if you are worried about the appearance of your reel - get new rings. I hate corrosion with a passion, and unless it's a well-used, old reel that deserves them, brassing and corrosion usually say to me that the reel maybe hasn't been looked after as well as it could have been.
Whatever you decide - enjoy using the reel, and good luck!
Simon
Cal's grease is a good idea, but i think if you use corrosion-x it will last longer, and it bonds to the surface to protect and prevent further deterioration
take a look at this!
http://www.tx-sharkfishing.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10717
If you have to use steel wool use 0000 or finer. Don't use anything coarse and don't use it for any amount of time. When I ride the coast on highway 1, and I don't wash the bike immediately, I get pitting on my chrome and aluminum parts due to the sea spray on the coast. I have found that S-100 polish works wonders, most motorcycle shops carry a metal polish that does a good job on softer metals. Never Dull is a metal polish that used for years and find it works great on tarnished and pitted metals, including reel parts. Always use a clean soft rag. Wash your parts first if possible to get any salts, corrosion or other debris off them first. You don't want to work that into it as you clean/polish.
Thanks for the tip kmstorm, would your steel wool be stainless steel? that's the only one I would use on my reels, if I had to.
You know I don't think I have found 0000 or 00000 in SS. But then again I use them for Wood working projects to and I don't need SS. 3M Scotch brite will work as well, I just find it hard to get it pliable enough, I really have to break it in. I use some some Dawn dish soap while I use the SW, and then rinse it clean and dry it, if needed, I will blow dry it on low setting. Fine Steel wool can help save a lot of parts we would otherwise think of discarding. I have had some luck with dollar store knock off CLR for knocking off corrosion. Not the greatest, but in a pinch it will get the job done. I restored a 1940's meat slicer that had come to me in a box of parts, CLR was a good friend for that job.
My problem with steel wool is it can get embedded in things. You may not even see it until it rusts. Then you will notice it. Bob
I use steel wool, and a combination of brushes and powered wheels ranging from soft bristles, to hard, and SS wire to brass wire wheels depending to soft terry cloth to various files, depending on what I am doing. Steel wool is a valuable tool for removing corrosion, just as different cleaning/polishing/corrosion removal/inhibitor products are valuable for different jobs. I'm developing a good working standardized system for performing complete servicing on all the reels (and their components) I work on that I pretty much apply across the board. This includes degreasing, corrosion removal, beburring, polishing, lubing and protecting. Cleaning/treating parts before and after corrosion removal and deburring is important to ensure quality of final product. I am still learning but feel I've got a pretty good overall system that I apply across the board. I might have a few extra steps, but I think it helps to ensure quality in the end.
I resupplied my gun cleaning stuff last year and found the following items just great for cleaning/restoring reels:
Tipton Polymer Gun Cleaning Picks - Set of Four -
SIX 6!!! Nylon Gun Rifle Pistol Cleaning Brushes
Scotch-Brite™ Blending Hand Pad 7448 (GRAY IN COLOR) = 000 FINE
3M Scotch-Brite ~ 5 Very Fine Maroon General Purpose Pad = 00 FINE
I purchased all of the aboce items on fee-bay. The polymer pickts are great for getting that last bit of crud from coners etc. and the picks have different shaped ends on the oppisite ends to get into tight places (like locking lugs on rifles). The cleaning brushes are stiff and very effective. None of these two products will scratch finishes (as long as you dont apply Gurilla strength). Ive used the gray 3M pads to remove lite scratches from my BRUSHED stainless guns with NO VISIBLE SIGNS OF SCRATCHES. When concerned about scratches I will add a couple drops of TSI 321 to the pads and use very light pressure. You can also DIY Dremel tips with this material as well. The burgandy pads are GREAT for restoring internal parts to new. Since the pads are plastic theres no rusting IF small particles are left on the parts. Ive been restoring Penn SS reels lately (with 30 year old grease) and the above items handled the job PERFECTLY! I put the link to 3M pads with usage etc on this forum somewhere (must have been burried). You may seriously want to give these products a try on your next project, especially you gun owners who ALREADY have these products for this is one trully transferable application for these cleaning tools.
Leo
I loves me some bore snake when rifle cleaning, some of the newer synthetic gun cleaners applied prior to shooting work great on M-16/AR-15's and semi auto pistols.
Quote from: Cone on May 14, 2014, 08:12:21 PM
My problem with steel wool is it can get embedded in things. You may not even see it until it rusts. Then you will notice it. Bob
x2...that was my point. You'll have a real mess the next time you crack that reel open. You would probably get away using it If you use it on a spool and frame posts.
I personally wouldn't use it on any parts, as mentioned above, I have stainless steel wool that I use, only when necessary.
Cotton swabs take care of those problems, run them through and around things, any SW catches on them and then you discard. Microfiber clothes do a great job as well.
No steel left at all with the 3M products and very easy to work with.
Leo