I was thinking the other day how I really love the old swirly colorful handle knobs that you see on older Penns. Small pieces of art really.
(http://fishingunited.com/forum/attaches/62_Penn%20knobs%20for%20various%20penn%20reels.jpg)
image source: http://fishingunited.com/forum/attaches/62_Penn%20knobs%20for%20various%20penn%20reels.jpg
And then I was thinking that I'd really like to have a nice swirly custom handle knob on my Tank. But bigger and longer than the stock ones are. Something like Alan's Kolekar handles.
I was thinking that you probably could make a knob from PU resin. Either cast the final shape directly or cast a bar and then use a lathe to make the final shape. The resins I looked into are really hard, in the Shore D 75-80 range. I think that it will be plenty of strong if you get the casting right. PU resin is easy to color and to make swirls of two different colors is even easier because even if you make a mistake it still looks good! :)
Today i made some quick sketches on the computer to just play around with profiles and knob design. As I don't own a lathe I have to make a original that I use to make a mold from. We have a 3d-printer at work so i can just print the 3d model when it's finished in the computer.
I wanted to keep it in the spirit of Penn but still make it unique. The first ones came out like this:
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/SketchGreen_lores_zpsed3a556f.jpeg)
I'm going to play around with the design some more until I have something I like. I don't have a favorite yet, they still need some tweaking. Maybe I'll try a none tapered design as well to get even closer to the originals.
The knobs are now appr. 120mm long and 30-34mm wide at the widest point.
What do you think? Is this something worth pursuing? I have most of the materials to make the molds (silicone, plaster, etc) I only need to buy some resin. Then you can color it with plain acrylic artist paints. The only concern I have is how the resin will hold up. There are epoxy resins to look into as well..
/Karl
They would be great , especially if you wanted to keep the look of the old Penn reels. I like the two on the right side the best. Acrylic resin should hold up because it gets rock hard.
Karl, I'm thinking you're a famous artist that prefers to keep a low profile :-\, you definitely have something there.
I think the second from the right and second from the left look sweet ;).
How about using Corian from DuPont:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/004-20.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/004-20.jpg.html)
Resistant to many things and the color is solid all the way through....easy to work with. :-\
Good idea.
Are you familiar with Avonite Surfaces? It is similar to Corian.
The factory I work at makes this stuff. I can get small pieces for nothing. It comes in all different colors. It is chip filled, so it looks like granite. Other colors are solid. anything from fluorescent orange to earth tones. We make it 1/2" thick, but it can be glued together and shaped. http://www.avonitesurfaces.com/content/all-avonite-colors. We also make Wilsonart.
Thanks guys for the kind words!
I know about corian, we have a bunch of the stuff at work (work as an architect). And I agree, it would make an excellent material. The only problem is that you'd had to use woodworking tools which I don't have room for in our apartment...
When I was doing some google based research on the topic I stumbled upon a hobby that I didn't even know excisted.
http://www.penturners.org/ (http://www.penturners.org/)
I'm also thinking of the spindle/axle construction. I've never reversed engineered some of the custom handles that are out there so I don't know whats the best approach. But I was looking at my son's skateboard wheel yesterday and looked how it was attached to the axle. And I thought to myself, if you scale that down a bit it could work!
(http://0.tqn.com/d/skateboard/1/0/n/D/WorkWheelPry.gif)
Hey, I even think that on bigger reels a skateboard wheel would make an excellent handle knob!
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Nl6zDKZLL._SL500_AA500_.jpg)
/Karl
Amazing stuff. I can't wait to see what you come up with. I agree with you that the old penn handles are very cool.
You know what!
Since I work at the factory where it is made. We actually turn this from liquid to solid. If I had a mold, I could cell cast a handle without having to shape it!
Not to rain on your parade Karl. ;) Just thinking of ways to do this.
I would just need a way to put a mount in it to form around. We even make an impact grade of acrylic, which is used for signs. It is very tough. I think this would be more suited for this application.
I have a 9/0 handle that got the knob busted off. This would be a great place to start. Maybe clear with some swirl of color in it.
We make bookoo colors of this stuff. More than is on the link.
That would be great Daron. Maybe Karl could rig something up for you to use, that man has an eye for great designs.
We got it Bad!
Anything to do with reels! ;)
I'm a handle color addict.......the green swirly ones are my favorite.......orange is cool to ;D
I do get Corian on some of my jobs, but never get involved with it, I use certified installers.
I had a cracked knob , so I decided to give it a shot on replacing it. This stuff is very easy to work with, I'm sure Avonite would be the same.
This was done from one of those squares above, using a hand held drill freehand :
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/009_zps0a6146c4.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/009_zps0a6146c4.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/012_zps1a0145a7.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/012_zps1a0145a7.jpg.html)
If someone need a green sample, I'm going to need to bring the reel along ;D
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 27, 2013, 02:15:21 AM
I do get Corian on some of my jobs, but never get involved with it, I use certified installers.
I had a cracked knob , so I decided to give it a shot on replacing it. This stuff is very easy to work with, I'm sure Avonite would be the same.
This was done from one of those squares above, using a hand held drill freehand :
...
If someone need a green sample, I'm going to need to bring the reel along ;D
Looks good, Sal! You never stop to amaze me! :)
Corian can be thermoformed as well...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY6MLmeI4QQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY6MLmeI4QQ)
Nice work Sal - you're a born innovator ;) ;D
So, was working away with the idea today as well.
I did two new designs, more traditional. One torpedo and one barrel. The two on the left is from yesterday.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/newdesigns_zps5a05c5ae.jpg)
I also spent a little time working on the mechanics. I'm not an engineer so I really don't know if this is good or bad. I wanted to make it simple and just sort of plug and play.
The idea is to bore a hole through the nob and then press fit two bearings in the center. A cap screw threads into a threaded rod on the other side and locks the inner bearing track in between.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/assembly01_zps411bb6af.jpg)
The rod connects to the arm and is screwed down with another hex screw. In the picture it shows a cap screw but it's supposed to be a button head. I just didn't bother to model it.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/assembly02_zps74d72244.jpg)
Everything screwed down.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/assembly03_zpsb1bccfc8.jpg)
This is the whole setup with the arm I'm having cut by Keta (Lee).
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/assembly04_zps56ac0dfc.jpg)
Amazing!!!
Karl, thanks to you now I can't stop ::), as I didn't have enough to do already ;D.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/001_zpsd75797ea.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/001_zpsd75797ea.jpg.html)
I actually like mine better than penn's, the black rubber knob is from penn.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/002_zpse34e537a.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/002_zpse34e537a.jpg.html)
Heating the Corian to 350 degree makes it flexible, I was able to shape it a little
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/005_zps45fed5df.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/005_zps45fed5df.jpg.html)
Not bad, I really like it. Daron ( Shark Hunter ) mentioned that you could melt it into liquid to shape it, I'm not sure about Avonite, but you won't be able to do it with Corian .
Sal
Sal, excellent work! You are always an inspiration! Question: How is the knob attached to the shaft? I'm considering different ways of doing the spindle and would be glad for some input.
I've ditched the ball bearing thing. I want a more simple and robust attachment but that will let it turn freely and smoothly. Right now I'm looking into bronze bushings.
Drawing below. The diameter of the bushing of the right length I could find determined everything else basically. I just need to find a machinist wanting to make a few bucks...
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/Spindle_zps00265868.jpg)
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 03, 2013, 01:08:39 AM
Not bad, I really like it. Daron ( Shark Hunter ) mentioned that you could melt it into liquid to shape it, I'm not sure about Avonite, but you won't be able to do it with Corian .
Sal
Sal, I didn't mean melt it to shape. Since I work where this is manufactured. We pour it into a casting machine as liquid and it comes out solid. So, it could be poured into a mold in liquid form before it hardens. Albert wants some samples to mess with. I figured I could glue to pieces together, then turn a knob on a lathe.
My misunderstanding Daron, that makes sense.
Karl, to me what you're showing above would be the best option, no bearings.
I was looking here for some stuff:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers/=oceec7
Basically, the spacer would be glued to the knob and would slide over the barrel, anchored with a screw on top and bottom.
Alan has some of the best handle posts design that I've ever seen, I'm not sure if he could get you some, I'm sure they're not cheap :-\.
The one I'm showing is pretty simple. all I did was to remove the knob from one of penn's handle and replaced it with mine.
Do you mean to make the spacer act as a bushing? I was thinking the same way as you I think but instead of just a spacer I'll press fit (or glue) a bronze bushing in the knob. Just plain bronze with some oil/grease pockets.
Yea, Alans design looks great, I have spent quite some time just looking at pictures and trying to figure out how they work. No luck. :) I want to keep it as simple as possible and also possible to easily disassemble to clean/grease and to keep the amount of machining required to a minimum.
I was going to 3d-print a couple of prototypes today but the printer decided it didn't wanna play along. It's my first time working with a 3d-printer so I'll get it to work eventually. Amazing machine really. And quite simple. It's basically a hot glue gun mounted on a small CNC 3 axle table. Instead of cutting it extrudes molten plastic through a nozzle. Down to 0.1mm resolution. But today the nozzles got clogged and it started printing air instead of plastic. Didn't have the tools to clean it at work...
Here are a couple of shots of Alan's design, again, this is the best I've seen so far
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/002_zpsa0851192.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/002_zpsa0851192.jpg.html)
I tried to shape the handle a little and realized that the material isn't easy to work with, I don't know how they get it that smooth, they probably use a lathe :-\. Mine looked great when I was shaping it, it had a two tone finish, but when the oil hit it, everything turned black ;D. I still like it though.
here is a close up shot of the post
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/007_zps4cd1d611.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/007_zps4cd1d611.jpg.html)
The longer part is welded to the knob
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/006_zps90f902e8.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/006_zps90f902e8.jpg.html)
I will also take this opportunity to show others how the penn knob is put together, just in case they wanted to replace the knob with another of their choice
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/011_zps42992585.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/011_zps42992585.jpg.html)
Try not to use the handle similar to the one on the right, use the one with the torpedo knob
The stock knob that I'm showing on the right is made of hard plastic with a soft rubber skin
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/012_zps583a402d.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/012_zps583a402d.jpg.html)
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 03, 2013, 05:21:18 PM
Here are a couple of shots of Alan's design, again, this is the best I've seen so far
Sal
(http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/002_zpsa0851192.jpg.html)
That knob looks really great! You are a true artist, Sal. And thanks for showing! The original looks lathed, you can see the toolmarks on the top and the tapered part. I've never held one but it looks a little like Delrin, if Delrin comes in black. But I can't wrap my head around how that thing is constructed... I guess I have to order one just to be able to tinker with it... :P
Ok Karl, I'll try again ::) ;D
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/018-8.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/018-8.jpg.html)
here is the handle with the screws, ready to be mounted
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/017-7.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/017-7.jpg.html)
here I'm showing the shaft coming out of the sleeve, note the tip, it's recessed to go into the arm, I don't believe the smaller knobs come with it...very clever
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/016-8.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/016-8.jpg.html)
The sleeve is glued to the handle and it spins on the shaft
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/013-12.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/013-12.jpg.html)
This knob is very smooth, I did notice some marks, I believe it was shaped on a lathe.
Hope this helps.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 03, 2013, 05:21:18 PM
I tried to shape the handle a little and realized that the material isn't easy to work with, I don't know how they get it that smooth, they probably use a lathe :-\. Mine looked great when I was shaping it, it had a two tone finish, but when the oil hit it, everything turned black ;D. I still like it though.
here is a close up shot of the post
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/007_zps4cd1d611.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/007_zps4cd1d611.jpg.html)
Sal, you crack me up. always looking for perfection in everything. But that handle looks very naturalistic, and quite possibly very comfortable, even more than one with smooth edges because it resembles holding a natural stick.
No, not perfection, mine just needed to be a little different ;D.
If you can get it spinning on something, take a pice of sandpaper and wrap it around halfway, so you have a piece in each hand. Slowly and smoothly slide it back and forth and it will get it smoothed down
No Sharker, no sandpaper. It wasn't easy getting it to where I wanted to, I'll try to show it but the pictures don't give it justice, due to the black:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/028_zps221c1cda.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/028_zps221c1cda.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/034_zps5ea06c80.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/034_zps5ea06c80.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/033_zpsf57bd3f8.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/033_zpsf57bd3f8.jpg.html)
This handle looks sweet ;).
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 03, 2013, 06:43:15 PM
Ok Karl, I'll try again ::) ;D
This knob is very smooth, I did notice some marks, I believe it was shaped on a lathe.
Hope this helps.
Sal
Yeay! Finally! Hehe, I think I got it. Simple and beautiful. Thanks, Sal!
Not a problem Karl, I'm glad I could be of some help.
Besides, I really like your design and I'm hoping that it will happen.
I keep going back at those green ones you've put up earlier and every time I do so, the second from left, with the soft lines and the fifth are still my favorite.
Since I've been showing Alan's handles, I just want to mention that you won't find a better handle. Those are nicely put together and I'm pretty confident they won't fail you.
This isn't about improving Alan's design, that would be very hard to do.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 04, 2013, 10:16:48 AM
Since I've been showing Alan's handles, I just want to mention that you won't find a better handle. Those are nicely put together and I'm pretty confident they won't fail you.
This isn't about improving Alan's design, that would be very hard to do.
Sal
I totally agree with you! Alan's design looks to be perfect and indestructible, just as a handle should be. And I probably will pick one up for myself as well.
This project is just to add a little bit of myself to the reel and a homage to Penn's beautiful old school handles. I probably will go with two designs, one barrel shaped (International style) and a torpedo shaped (Senator style). When the silicone molds are finished I'll start experiment with different colors. I really like the plain ivory colored knobs as well. We'll see what can be achieved.
/Karl
As if I don't have enough to do. Thanks Sal and Karl. Now I have another thing to add to the list. ::) Bob
Karl, not pulling away from your thread, I'm really enjoying it.
Its worth mentioning that we should probably look into making plate with Corian or Avonite.
I have dropped these pieces numerous times and nothing happened, some bounced back, even the ones that were drilled.
I've frozen the pieces, boiled them and hit them with a torch at around 400 degree, using map gas.
The material buffs nicely, any marks come right off. these could also be laminated with invisible seams.
Daron, we could probably use Accurate plates to make molds and pour.
This stuff is very strong, what do you guys think?
Sal
I say go for it! I guess Daron will have to do the casting for you, I don't think you can buy the stuff off the shelf in liquid form. If someone had a cnc router I guess you could cut it out from sheets as well.
I can send you some pieces Sal. At 1/2" thick. Its pretty heavy. What do you think? Some 3"x3" pieces?
I could send you four different colors to start. Two of each color, so they could be glued together. Leaving you with a solid 1" thick piece.
The problem with the liquid, is that its considered Hazardous material until it Hardens. If any molding is done, I have to do it at work. That is not a problem, but I don't want to transport any of it. It gets unstable above 60 degrees. The vessels that hold this stuff are cold water jacketed and under a Nitrogen Blanket. It is made in 5000 pound batches. Poured into the Casting machine continuously, It is not uncommon to run 30 batches of this material in a 24 hour period. We sell it in 30"x144" sheets for countertops. There are many other custom sizes, but this is the most common.
It sounds to me that it can be hard working with this stuff in smaller quantities and in smaller molds. Or what do you say Daron? Can you use it with silicone molds?
/Karl
I was thinking, They have to run a reactivity test on each batch before they run it. It is put in a small test tube and submersed in a water bath to simulate running through the machine. These would make perfect knobs. I will get on this right away.
The only problem with the Silicone molds Karl, is that when the Chemical reaction takes place and it turns from liquid to solid, It gets pretty hot.
here are a few of the knobs i use
Hey guys is any of the stuff you are experimenting with semi-soft at one point so that one can squeeze the stuff lightly to make an impression of your hand for a truly custom handle? Dominick
Nice custom knobs, I may have broke one or 2 experimenting before.
But had successful results too.
probably easier for me to order, but not as much fun.
[(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o774/richiec72/knobs_zps2d4db37e.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/richiec72/media/knobs_zps2d4db37e.jpg.html)][/img] [(http://i1342.photobucket.com/albums/o774/richiec72/pennknob_zps5fea5b54.jpg) (http://s1342.photobucket.com/user/richiec72/media/pennknob_zps5fea5b54.jpg.html)][/img]
We need custom plates!
I have been thinking about the right material for a year. Never considered corian, but it sounds like it would work.
I think we could use custom plates to make the ultimate frankenreels. Imagine a 49 with 112H guts, or a 349 with 6/0 guts, or how about a 309 with no levelwind that uses a 99 Tib frame. The options are staggering.
Ron
Wow Ron!
I never thought of that. I can supply the material if someone can do the tooling. My company makes all the colors in 1/4" as well. I think that would be perfect for plates.
Quote from: Pescachaser on September 05, 2013, 06:18:52 PM
Hey guys is any of the stuff you are experimenting with semi-soft at one point so that one can squeeze the stuff lightly to make an impression of your hand for a truly custom handle? Dominick
You can squeeze a piece of clay and make a mold from that! Corian & CO gets soft while hot but I think it's too hot to handle without gloves.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 05, 2013, 03:56:24 PM
I was thinking, They have to run a reactivity test on each batch before they run it. It is put in a small test tube and submersed in a water bath to simulate running through the machine. These would make perfect knobs. I will get on this right away.
The only problem with the Silicone molds Karl, is that when the Chemical reaction takes place and it turns from liquid to solid, It gets pretty hot.
There is silicone that can withstand heat from pewter and lead so maybe with the right stuff... The test tube sounds perfect for knobs!
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 05, 2013, 02:00:57 PM
I can send you some pieces Sal. At 1/2" thick. Its pretty heavy. What do you think? Some 3"x3" pieces?
I could send you four different colors to start. Two of each color, so they could be glued together. Leaving you with a solid 1" thick piece.
The problem with the liquid, is that its considered Hazardous material until it Hardens. If any molding is done, I have to do it at work. That is not a problem, but I don't want to transport any of it. It gets unstable above 60 degrees. The vessels that hold this stuff are cold water jacketed and under a Nitrogen Blanket. It is made in 5000 pound batches. Poured into the Casting machine continuously, It is not uncommon to run 30 batches of this material in a 24 hour period. We sell it in 30"x144" sheets for countertops. There are many other custom sizes, but this is the most common.
Sending me this stuff won't help buddy, I don't have the tools or know how.
Also, I could probably get samples from the supplier with free shipping.
This will need to go to the back burner for now, unless someone is up for the challenge :-\.
after working a little with this stuff, I do believe we definitely have something here.
These should also be better than aluminum.
Thanks Daron for trying to help.
I agree that some things can be created from this material that was not intended for their original use as countertops. I think making plates is a great idea! Like I said. I can get samples of this stuff in any thickness. 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2". Corian is our competition. That really doesn't mean anything to me. I just know we make some really cool colors of it. A lot more than Corian. If anyone is up to the task. I can provide free samples for side plate tooling.
Karl, I got some of the hardened tubes today and they were full of bubbles. The problem you run into when trying to pour into a mold. It is designed to be poured into a machine that creates an airtight seal with some serious hydraulic pressure to come out at the correct thickness and bubble free.
I don't mean to ramble on, but I have been doing this for 25 years and I know the process. the liquid is formulated to run through the machine at a specific speed at a specific temperature. usually around 180 degrees. When the chemical reaction takes place, the acrylic gets much hotter than that and a constant flow of 180 degree water actually keeps it from getting too hot. It heats up slowly and cools slowly before exiting the 700 foot long casting machine. It is constructed of two 112" wide stainless steel belts.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 06, 2013, 04:46:13 AM
Karl, I got some of the hardened tubes today and they were full of bubbles. The problem you run into when trying to pour into a mold. It is designed to be poured into a machine that creates an airtight seal with some serious hydraulic pressure to come out at the correct thickness and bubble free.
I don't mean to ramble on, but I have been doing this for 25 years and I know the process. the liquid is formulated to run through the machine at a specific speed at a specific temperature. usually around 180 degrees. When the chemical reaction takes place, the acrylic gets much hotter than that and a constant flow of 180 degree water actually keeps it from getting too hot. It heats up slowly and cools slowly before exiting the 700 foot long casting machine. It is constructed of two 112" wide stainless steel belts.
Yea, I'm not surprised. A lot of resins require high pressure or low pressure (vacuum bell) to get rid of all the bubbles and get it to flow into every nook and corner of the mold. Nothing you do in your back yard.
As for custom side plates, I think you have to be careful how you do that. To just take an existing plate and make a mold doesn't sound exactly legal to me if you plan to make a small run and sell them.
/Karl
how about using some 1" dia round stock lexan or teflon ? you can turn it on a lathe into any shape and it's strong also easy to work.
Quote from: turboal on September 08, 2013, 05:04:36 PM
how about using some 1" dia round stock lexan or teflon ? you can turn it on a lathe into any shape and it's strong also easy to work.
If I had a lathe I would go down that road, believe me! :) You could even cast different colored rods and then turn them on a lathe. But in my apartment I don't have room for one... :/
/Karl
A small lathe could be built from readily available stuff that is not to expensive, I used a sewing machine motor to make a fishing rod handle lathe for use in turning everything from cork to hardwood and epoxy.
Quote from: saltydog on September 08, 2013, 05:38:49 PM
A small lathe could be built from readily available stuff that is not to expensive, I used a sewing machine motor to make a fishing rod handle lathe for use in turning everything from cork to hardwood and epoxy.
Sounds awesome! Got any pics? :P
Not yet but I will dig it out next week and take a few.
Quote from: saltydog on September 08, 2013, 05:38:49 PM
A small lathe could be built from readily available stuff that is not to expensive, I used a sewing machine motor to make a fishing rod handle lathe for use in turning everything from cork to hardwood and epoxy.
Great, I could really use one myself. I didn't know they were so expensive.
Please do show us some shots...if you don't mind.
You know, I really like white with red
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/002_zpsc109551e.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/002_zpsc109551e.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/004_zpsccf3b97d.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/004_zpsccf3b97d.jpg.html)
Ah, Sal, now you are just showing off! :) Beautiful!
This homemade lathe thing kept tugging on my attention.. Found a few tutorials on line. Doesn't seem too hard to get a small wood turning lathe going.. To find a good cheap motor is probably the hardest. How strong is sewing machine motors generally? If we're not talking industrial machines..
http://www.instructables.com/id/100-Homemade-Lathe/?ALLSTEPS (http://www.instructables.com/id/100-Homemade-Lathe/?ALLSTEPS)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZ5/0EDM/F5HVHS2N/FZ50EDMF5HVHS2N.MEDIUM.jpg)
Thanks for that Karl. I was looking around and I believe we might be better off with something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-SPEED-BENCH-TOP-1-2HP-MOTOR-10-X-18-MINI-WOOD-LATHE-BED-EXTENSION-18-39-/231033247845?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35caa79865
This could be beefed up and it would probably be cheaper.
Looks good! I'll have to look around and see if I can find something that will ship to Sweden. But that size seems to be hideble. :)
This looks to be quite reasonable as well...
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wood-Lathe-W10002/593359446.html
I hope you're not serious Karl, shipping is over $100. The only good think I see is that we could make elephants. ;D
That is how you build one Karl and yes sewing machine motors are powerful enough and won't break the bank. I have picked them up for less than 25.00 new with foot pedal.
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 09, 2013, 04:07:35 PM
I hope you're not serious Karl, shipping is over $100. The only good think I see is that we could make elephants. ;D
I wonder how they managed to do the trunk...
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 09, 2013, 04:07:35 PM
I hope you're not serious Karl, shipping is over $100. The only good think I see is that we could make elephants. ;D
yea I know the shipping sucks, but that's no news for me living in northern Europe. I was mostly just looking at the size and construction. The only problem I could see was that the motor is only 24W.. I found another (around $150) 3-in-1 machine with free shipping but that also had a weak motor. I guess you could swap it out though for a stronger one...
Check Emco (e.g., Emcomat 145).
Hmm.. couldn't find any Emcomat 145, but all other Emcomats looks to be big and serious business.. A bit big for my apartment.. Any links?
Dominick asked about ergonomic handles that were fitted to your hand. So I took out some clay and started playing around with it. Squeezed my brains out basically and then tried to smooth it out and tried to define a shape.
I don't know if I like it or not. It reminds me of a gun grip and at the same time some strange bone... But it sure is comfortable! :) With the right clay you could harden it in the oven and then sand it super smooth (1000+ grit) before making a mold and then cast it in a nice color.. Could come out pretty nice.
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/IMG_20130910_143524_zpsd9e289df.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/IMG_20130910_143558_zps3b63c7ed.jpg)
(http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o677/Tottofagrin/Custom%20Knob/IMG_20130910_143831_zpsfdf24801.jpg)
/Karl
I like that! Kind of like the shimano or aluetnocos grips
You could harden that in an oven them some mold release and make a bondo mold of it and cast your own handles, and if you liked it cast it in fiberglass resin for a permanent mold.
Yea I know, but the clay I had lying around is an oil based clay that doesn't harden. My Super Sculpey is all gone... I'll order some more when I order the resin.
:)
I used to make pistol grips like that for our M-4's when I was in the Marine corps, sure made holding a weapon all day more comfortable.
Yes, it sure does look like a pistol grip.
I bet those would feel good after crankin all day too. I may have to get out my casting stuff and give it a go.
Great work Karl - loving the innovation ;)
Very nice Karl...you're the man ;)
I'm glad I didn't see the sixth letter of the alphabet on that bracelet, I would have had to delete it. ;D
Uh Oh!
Its the bracelet Police! You better make a run for it Karl! :D
Maybe the Emcomat 145 is discontinued. Take a look at https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx (https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx)
Emco makes good stuff for the hobbyist. Not familiar with their larger machines. Quality is good, as is workmanship.
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 11, 2013, 03:15:29 AM
Very nice Karl...you're the man ;)
I'm glad I didn't see the sixth letter of the alphabet on that bracelet, I would have had to delete it. ;D
:) Haha, just to clear things up... That is a bracelet I bought after a friends kid got diagnosed with leukemia. It simply says: F*ck Cancer. It's sold by a charity organisation for young people with cancer. And if there is a time when you can use the F-word I think it's when addressing that cruel disease.
;)
/Karl
Quote from: Makule on September 11, 2013, 04:42:58 AM
Maybe the Emcomat 145 is discontinued. Take a look at https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx (https://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx)
Emco makes good stuff for the hobbyist. Not familiar with their larger machines. Quality is good, as is workmanship.
Thanks, man! :)
Quote from: Mandelstam on September 11, 2013, 05:23:59 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 11, 2013, 03:15:29 AM
Very nice Karl...you're the man ;)
I'm glad I didn't see the sixth letter of the alphabet on that bracelet, I would have had to delete it. ;D
:) Haha, just to clear things up... That is a bracelet I bought after a friends kid got diagnosed with leukemia. It simply says: F*ck Cancer. It's sold by a charity organisation for young people with cancer. And if there is a time when you can use the F-word I think it's when addressing that cruel disease.
;)
/Karl
I agree with you on the bracelet Karl, it certainly a cruel disease, my wife has Non Hodgkin's Lymphoma, it is like living with a UXB, never knowing when it is going to explode.
Mike.
Sorry about the bracelet crack Karl. Just trying to have a little fun.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 11, 2013, 06:02:45 AM
Sorry about the bracelet crack Karl. Just trying to have a little fun.
No worries, man! :)
Quote from: Jerseymic on September 11, 2013, 05:45:26 AM
I agree with you on the bracelet Karl, it certainly a cruel disease, my wife has Non Hodgkin's Lymphoma, it is like living with a UXB, never knowing when it is going to explode.
Mike.
Sorry to hear that, Mike. My mom died in cancer when I was a teenager. My dad just had to fight off prostate cancer. It's everywhere. I hope someday they will find a cure.
Quote from: Mandelstam on September 11, 2013, 05:23:59 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 11, 2013, 03:15:29 AM
Very nice Karl...you're the man ;)
I'm glad I didn't see the sixth letter of the alphabet on that bracelet, I would have had to delete it. ;D
:) Haha, just to clear things up... That is a bracelet I bought after a friends kid got diagnosed with leukemia. It simply says: F*ck Cancer. It's sold by a charity organisation for young people with cancer. And if there is a time when you can use the F-word I think it's when addressing that cruel disease.
;)
/Karl
Sorry Karl, had no idea.
A reminder for us to keep exploring and enjoy the small things in life....life 's too short.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on September 11, 2013, 10:24:36 AM
A reminder for us to keep exploring and enjoy the small things in life....life 's too short.
Sal
Amen
:)
I agree, as a cancer survivor and one who has lost loved ones and friends to cancer. There are many of us on the forum who have beat it or are in the process. 8)
Overall in humans, there is a 50% survival rate for cancer.
Let us hope that one day a cure will be found.
Mike.
How's that handle going Karl? Can't wait to see a try.
I was down talking to a machine shop today and they said that they could fix the SS shaft and sleeve. Have ordered clay but it wasn't in stock so have to wait a bit for it...
Will keep you posted! Right now it looks like I'm going to have at least three different interchangeable handles for my tank. Can't really decide which one I like best so I'm probably going to make all three... Torpedo, Barrel and Gun grip... :P
As the 3d-printer is still acting up and I don't have the money to spend on a lathe, I'll hand sculpt each one.
/Karl