Ok I decided that my lx will be my project, I can't trust avet on this. How do I get corroded reel foot screws and a right side bearing outer race out? Thanks guys. And will coke strip anodizing?
Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on October 29, 2013, 02:37:57 AM
Ok I decided that my lx will be my project, I can't trust avet on this. How do I get corroded reel foot screws and a right side bearing outer race out? Thanks guys. And will coke strip anodizing?
Coke is highly acidic and will damage the anodizing.
Are the corroded base screws broken?
Make a rolling head bar out of a deck screw like in the photo below to remove the outer race. (http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g104/IGFA19Keta/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg) (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/IGFA19Keta/media/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg.html)
Nope not broken, just really corroded. It's soaking in hot water and dawn right now, I'm gonna try boiling water next
Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on October 29, 2013, 03:09:38 AM
Nope not broken, just really corroded. It's soaking in hot water and dawn right now, I'm gonna try boiling water next
I like to use 50/50 acetone/ATF, tighten the screws slightly before trying to remove them, back out 1/2 turn then put a drop of the ATF/acetone on the end of the screws on the newly exposed thread, tighten the screws and then back them off 1 turn, when threads show below the screw head put ATF/Acetone on them and tighten, repeat until the screw is free.
Kroil is another good product for this.
I read a comparison of various products for freeing stuck fasteners. It appeared to me to be a well designed study. The ATF/acetone was easily the most effective.
I had friend recommend wintergreen rubbing alcohol one time. It worked well in that application, which was the seat post on an old bike I purchased at a police sale. Liquid wrench and a couple of other products had already failed, even with the application of heat.
My friend had advised me to wait overnight, but after two minutes the seat came loose so easily that I yanked it over my head on the first try. I nearly ended up on the floor.
Thanks keta, I am going on the hunt for some kroil tommorow, I can't budge the screws either direction
A Mercury mechanic turned me on to this years ago. I don't know if they still make it , but Mercury used to have a spray called Mercruiser Engine Cleaner. You sprayed it down the carburetor to get rid of carbon, etc. It would break loose any corrosion, etc. In fact, we used it on some tapered joints on prop shafts and it allowed us to change props without a puller. If you have ever tried to pull an inboard prop without a puller, you know how amazing this is.
PB BLASTER IS GOOD STUFF!!!!!! I bought a can and gave it a good soak then pulled all the screws no problem. The bearing on the right side of the spool shaft is rusted on, and the left plate is in the freezer. 50 dollar headache of corrosion
Make a rolling head bar out of a deck screw like in the photo below to remove the outer race. (http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g104/IGFA19Keta/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg) (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/IGFA19Keta/media/Reels/bearingpuller.jpg.html)
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Lee, you're the Master SS guy, would you be able to make this in stainless steel? if so, how much? i think i need one in my tool box.
Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on October 31, 2013, 12:00:39 AM
PB BLASTER IS GOOD STUFF!!!!!!
You're right, PB Blaster is good stuff. we use it at the shop all day long, especially on exhaust systems. just "spay, soak, spay, soak..."
I could but it would have to be made out of 15-5 SS and expensive. I can make a few out of screws if people want them.
Well I tried everything and the bearing is still stuck. Soaking in PB blaster right now. I asked about a different bearing shape, and he said it would become a specialt item that I they changed it it would be impossible to get if discontinued. I am almost willing to pay someone to remove it for me if I can't get it
Hi Grayson,
Can you take a pic of what we are up against?
Hi Lee,
Good idea with the screw... did you just grind down the sides of the head to shape it like that?
Looks like a 3" or 4" right?
It was a 4" deck screw. I beat the sides flat with a hammer and anvil, ground it to shape on my belt sander and finished it with a chainsaw file and small flat file.
Lee,
Well, I have the hammer... and the a file ;D ;D
and when I finally get my s**t together and send you that list of parts I bugged you about last month would you be able to make up a couple of those for me? .... if there's one thing i've learned living in the middle of the ocean... it's to have a spare EVERYTHING ! ;D ;D
I'll get that order together for ya soon.....sorry bout that...Fiji Time ... everyone's susceptible ;)
If you put a run of weld around the inside of the outer race it will shrink it (when cold) & should just tap out.
Rgds
Mark
Grayson,
Did you ever get this bearing out?
If so, can you please update us as to how you did it. What tool(s) or technique(s).
If not, please post a pic so we can have a look-see..
Removal of stuck right side plate bearing:
The following works much better than expected.
Many times the bearing bore is tight to begin with (especially the black anodize). To remove try the following:
First simply rap the side plate sharply on a hard flat surface. Hit the surface square so as to not damage the side plate (this is how Avet does it). If this does not work go to the next step:
2 remove the plastic lever stops and heat the side plate bearing bore from the outside. It does not take much heat. When you begin to feel the side plate get warm to the touch (unheated areas) it is heated more than needed. Rap the side plat on a hard flat surface and the bearing usually just drops out. You can also pop the bearing out with a extraction tool (the ground screw thing or a small bent screw diver).
Jim N.
Removal of stuck reel seat screws:
These can be tough and often the small hex head will round out before it breaks loose.
Avet used a lock sealant that make the screw harder to turn and if it is salted in it gets very tight.
In severe cases try the following:
Warning there is the possibility that you may permanently damage the frame. Some times it is better to leave a stuck screw in place
if it does not affect the ability to service the reel. The best solution is to service these screws when the reel is new.
Apply PB blaster or some other penetrate to the screw head, reel seat and the threads on the inside of the frame.
Heat with a pencil (pointed flame) torch applied directly to the screw head and the threads on the inside of the frame.
The entire frame will heat quickly so be careful. Try to move the screw both tightening and loosening to break the salt crystals and
work the screw loose alternating between loosening and tightening. If you round out the hex the dremel a slot. If it breaks off drill it out undersized (so you don't drill the threads) and then tap the drilled screw and the shell of the old screw will usually collapse and screw out the back side of the bore.
Jim N
Thanks Jim i got the reel seat screws im workin on the bearing if i cant get it another member has offered to help. Im sepersted from all my stuff for the next few weeks when i get back to it
Been a while since I was here, but this post caught my attention.
Bunnlevel Sharker, you're facing the same problem which I faced earlier this year. I was pulling my hair out cos of that bearing race being stuck, but following the detailed replies I got here, the race finally gave in to cold + heat.
I wrote about it in this thread: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7084.0
Hope you'll be able to get that race out when you're looking at your reel the next time.
First post here and just wanted to thank everyone for the knowledge that I gained form this site. It gave me the confidence to start to tear down a few reels and I have the same problems with the bearings as you do. I have found that a cork screw helps to remove some of those tough bearing.
Ray
Quote from: RTT on February 04, 2014, 12:07:03 AM
First post here and just wanted to thank everyone for the knowledge that I gained form this site. It gave me the confidence to start to tear down a few reels and I have the same problems with the bearings as you do. I have found that a cork screw helps to remove some of those tough bearing.
Ray
Hey, welcome aboard, and good tip on the corkscrew!
Welcome Ray,
Just how are you going about using that coiled pointed-end piece of metal to remove a stuck bearing.
Thanx,
Leo
Leo
I place the point under the bearing let's say a 9 o'clock and pry a little at opposite side, 3 o'clock. I keep moving around the bearing using this technique.
I only used the cork screw that was on my Swiss Army knife, after a long list of other tools failed.
I hope this helps,
Ray
That's perfect, definatly have to try that one.
Ron