Is there a Tib frame available for a Surfmaster 200?
Its the one on the left. :D
P10 will fit the Penn Squidder 140 and Surfmaster 200
Thank You Frank! ;D
Glad I could help.
Before I spring for a Tib frame for this Surfmaster. It still has the plastic spool. Scotts sells an Aluminum one for it. A 29L-200 for 35 bucks. I would rather get the aluminum replacement than get the original Chrome 200M one thats a three piece. Anybody ever tried this?
The Surfmaster 100 and 150 reels I use have had the plastic and chromed brass spools replaced with aluminum ones.
I'm looking for an aluminum spool for a Surfmaster 200 if anybody has one. I will order from Scott's as a last resort.
That Surfmaster is going to turn out so good. I cant wait to see the finished product. Bluefish watch out!
Scored a P-10 Frame from the Boss! Such a good deal, I'm not going to brag!
No one has an aluminum spool? If I order from Scotts, I'm buying two. ;)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 08, 2014, 06:47:59 AM
Scored a P-10 Frame from the Boss! Such a good deal, I'm not going to brag!
No one has an aluminum spool? If I order from Scotts, I'm buying two. ;)
If Alan hasn't sent out the frame yet, you may want to pick up a SS gear sleeve for that reel as well. It should be the same as the squidder SS gear sleeve.
I'm still working out the 5+1 drag stack kits for this gear set since Dawn does not have the drag washer size in the thickness that is needed. So we will be working on an option or two shortly...due to come out in a couple of weeks.
Bryan
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 08, 2014, 08:58:56 AM
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 08, 2014, 06:47:59 AM
Scored a P-10 Frame from the Boss! Such a good deal, I'm not going to brag!
No one has an aluminum spool? If I order from Scotts, I'm buying two. ;)
If Alan hasn't sent out the frame yet, you may want to pick up a SS gear sleeve for that reel as well. It should be the same as the squidder SS gear sleeve.
I'm still working out the 5+1 drag stack kits for this gear set since Dawn does not have the drag washer size in the thickness that is needed. So we will be working on an option or two shortly...due to come out in a couple of weeks.
Bryan
I'm already there ;D.
Using your .50mm metal washers and Dawn's .50mm they will do just fine. Dawn's sheet is actually .48mm.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/005_zps84bfd4d0.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/005_zps84bfd4d0.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/007_zpsb5a05264.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/007_zpsb5a05264.jpg.html)
As I said earlier, purple is one of my favorite colors ;D
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/010_zpscbd96657.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/010_zpscbd96657.jpg.html)
I love these little reels ;)
I forgot to mention that I also like to use Lee's inserts on these.
Way to go Sal, staying ahead of the pack. As Lewis Grizzard wrote "if you aren't the lead dog the scenery never changes".
I hear ya Sal. I just don't want to cut washers if Dawn already has cut washers in that size and thickness...unfortunately, not that thickness in the size I need. It's easy enough if you are only cutting washers for your own reel, but I'm not a manufacture if I also have to take care of my little ones...just not enough time in the day to do it on a larger scale.
I'll try to remember what Smooth Drag CF washers I used, they were .020" thick (.508 mm) with the right ID and larger OD. With the smaller ID of the 60 main gear my "soft" .020" eared washers worked, Bryan's harder washers will work even better. With a bridge and gearsleeve for a mandrel and a belt sander reworking the OD is quick.
Thanks for the input guys. Mine is going to be red Sal. Not a purple fan. Just sayin'
If all Alan had was purple, I guess I would be. ;)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 08, 2014, 04:20:09 PM
Thanks for the input guys. Mine is going to be red Sal. Not a purple fan. Just sayin'
If all Alan had was purple, I guess I would be. ;)
The Tib frame for my Surfmaster 100 is black.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 08, 2014, 04:20:09 PM
Thanks for the input guys. Mine is going to be red Sal. Not a purple fan. Just sayin'
If all Alan had was purple, I guess I would be. ;)
Daron, I said purple was one of my favorite, I have a few more ;)
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7043.msg59770#msg59770
By the way P16 Tib frame will make it narrow and P15 will make it half way between the narrow and standard.
Very Nice Sal. There is a lot of cash in that chair! ;D
This is my first small reel. It was a gift. I'm not going into these like I have the bigger senators. Just want to trick this one out. The frame and ss sleeve are on the way from the boss. Washers from Bryan. Spool and some other goodies from Scott's.
I just want to know how in the heck you plan to catch a 10ft tiger on this thing? ;D Should be a killer bait and drum reel when its magged
I'm going to fish for Bluefish with it Grayson. You know love Sharks love Bluefish. ;D
Its a bait reel. Maybe if I hook it in with Sal's 14/0, That Tiger won't stand a chance. ;)
How much line does it hold? Smack a 100lb shock and 18in of #12 single strand and youd be ready to rock from blues to rays to sharpnoses plus some in reserve
I'm probably going to spool it with straight 30lb mono.
Just an FYI. The 29L-200 aluminum spool from scott's is a plug and play. No mods needed.
Boy, these reels are tiny!, did a dry run to see what I was in for. No problem. ;)
Just waiting for washers from Bryan and the Tib frame from the boss.
Looking good Daron. From the looks of that stand and Knob, you have a very early Surfmaster, I'll guestimate early 40's.
If you decide to swap the right side ring in the future, the thumb screw won't line up with th new ring, but we could make it work ;)
Picked it up for 20 bucks! Leaving the other one stock, with just the aluminum spool and new drags.
Got me an insert on the way from Lee! ;D
I like the purple. Purple & black. Purple & white. Purple & Silver. It's all good!
The Boss comes through again! ;) Bryan Too! ;)
You're welcome. What are those other two things in the picture? Did I send those to you by mistake?
Bonus! ;)
ok, so your clamp fits? because hoyt's didn't.......
No, it doesn't fit, but 2 minutes with my dremel and it will. ;)
Bob Stenbro from Tiburon responded to my email and said he is sending a replacement. ;D
can you forward the email address to me? i need to get a new clamp for hoyt as well.
I forwarded you the original.
bob@tiburonengineering.com
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 15, 2014, 08:27:02 PM
No, it doesn't fit, but 2 minutes with my dremel and it will.
Daron, any pics of your progress ?
I'm going to get on this weekend Ono. I just made plinths and drank beer last weekend. ;D
Finally got around to putting the Surfmaster together.
It turned out well, I had no problems with the star threads on the ss sleeve either.
Waiting on the new clamp from Tiburon.
Daron, what was wrong with your clamp?
I just received the Tib frame for my Surfmaster 100, and the reel foot is huge.. way too big for the rod I wanted to use.
Before I bust out the grinder and ruin the anodize, I was going to check to see if Tiburon makes a smaller size reel foot i could change to.
I had the same problem with an Avet SX reel foot, but Avet supplied the smaller seat for like $9
The clamp won't slide over the studs. It is too narrow and about 1/8" too small to even fit over them. I will open it up either way.
I see 4 metal washers. How did you configure the drag? Really nice looking reel.
Ron
Looks good Daron!
Quote from: noyb72 on January 27, 2014, 02:04:57 AM
I see 4 metal washers. How did you configure the drag? Really nice looking reel.
Ron
the last one should be a spring washer. yeah, nice work!!!!
You got me Ron! ;D
I used original HT-100's, They are about .80. I need some .50 sheet to complete the 5 stack with Bryan's washers. Wallace has me a sheet on the way. I just made it a 4 stack with two Eared washers in the middle of the stack. It seems to work pretty good. I put the spring washer on top.
CF, Keyed, CF, Eared, CF, Eared, CF, Keyed, spring washer.
That is close to a factory stack except I don't think the eared washers are supposed to be next to each other?
Ron
Factory stack is only three, with just one eared. I just doubled up the eared, feels pretty stout!
Ah,
I see why you did that. In my mind I would have alternated them, but there is no right answer. Glad you are happy with it.
Ron
Its only temporary Ron. When I get the .50 sheet from Wallace. It will be a 5 stack. If Lee comes through with the insert, It will be a 5 stack Hex Monster! ;)
be careful with those inserts Daron, Fragile, handle with care!
I just destroyed one pulling it outta the little ziplock it was tucked into.
I grasped it between my fingers to pull it out and it collapsed in on itself, then broke into pieces >:(
sometimes I don't know my own strength ;D
I think that Tib frame is a good idea!!
Ron
Quote from: erikpowell on January 27, 2014, 05:27:29 AM
be careful with those inserts Daron, Fragile, handle with care!
I just destroyed one pulling it outta the little ziplock it was tucked into.
I grasped it between my fingers to pull it out and it collapsed in on itself, then broke into pieces >:(
sometimes I don't know my own strength ;D
I owe you one when I cut the v.II versions. You didn't have to prove your strength for my long arm crack did you..... ;D
Quote from: Keta on January 27, 2014, 03:11:13 PM
I owe you one when I cut the v.II versions. You didn't have to prove your strength for my long arm crack did you..... ;D
;D ;D ;D ....Too funny...... I appreciate that Lee ;)
The new clamp came from Tiburon today. It fits like a glove! ;D
Oh, I almost forgot ;) This as well. Tom's squidder! This reel is flawless and amazing! :P
Not a scuff or scratch on it! Gil has the hook up on these! ;D
Quote from: Keta on January 27, 2014, 03:11:13 PM
Quote from: erikpowell on January 27, 2014, 05:27:29 AM
be careful with those inserts Daron, Fragile, handle with care!
I just destroyed one pulling it outta the little ziplock it was tucked into.
I grasped it between my fingers to pull it out and it collapsed in on itself, then broke into pieces >:(
sometimes I don't know my own strength ;D
I owe you one when I cut the v.II versions. You didn't have to prove your strength for my long arm crack did you..... ;D
Keta,
When you are ready to cut the inserts I would like 7 112H inserts and 2 113H inserts.
Thanks.
I just finished cutting some .5 drags from the sheet I got from Wallace. This is my first cut on the thinner sheet, I broke the first few before I got it down. Thanks for the great deal Wallace! You guys need to jump on this if you need thin sheet. $20 shipped!
Cut three sets, I was shooting for four, but I shattered the first two, I had to use a little finesse, these are not .140! :P
All buttoned up with Bryan's washers and Wally's sheet. Custom 5 stack. BAM! ;D
Chris and Hoyt, Your cf's are on the way, compliments of alantani.com. ;)
Hoyt, metal washers are on the way. Please send payment upon confirmation of fitment. Thank you, Bryan
With all the C F Washers being cut by everyone. Has any body looked for a small Gasket Cutter? Mc Master might have something that would work.
http://www.allstategasket.com/info_gasket-tools-punch02.asp
I am using the 16 piece metric kit and it works great cutting the ID and OD at the same time.
I prefer to dremel mine so I can blow some carbon fiber boogers for a couple days. :P
Quote from: bluefish69 on February 10, 2014, 09:08:47 PM
With all the C F Washers being cut by everyone. Has any body looked for a small Gasket Cutter? Mc Master might have something that would work.
i got mine from grainger. bryan has it now.
I've been enjoying this one, I believe it needs a sticky....don't get a big head Daron. ;D
Oh yeah! ;D
A buddy if mine recently gave me a 200, it came with the Penn Catalog from the mid '60's also, took it apart and put new drags in but I can't figure out how to install the clip - I'm used to a spring like the Squidders and jigmaster have installed, couldn't find a pic on the site, I tried looking at the Senator thread but it didn't help. Any advice guys?
"Clip"? Do you mean AR dog spring?
(https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/parts/14_155.jpg)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
This is a pic of a double dogged 9/0 plate, but this should give you an idea where it goes and how it works. ;)
Your plate should have a small brass pin instead of the plastic post.
That's perfect guys thanks...
Having a hell of a time finding an AL spool, $45(incl ship.) is a little high, no?
Here is where I got mine.
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/29L-200.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/29L-200.aspx)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Scott's is the best price I've found and I will be buying one in the near future.
Man I cannot seem to get this AR dog clip in the right way, I'm seeing a plastic pin not a brass pin that the dog sits upon, anyone have any tips to get this thing right?
http://twitpic.com/dvnzlw/full
Your dog is back to front and will not fully engage with the sleeve.
It does not locate on the "plastic pin".
Check the pic of the double dogged 9/0 showing correct dog engagement with the sleeve.
The Lower bridge screw holds the dog, not the pin. The plastic pin is for the spring to provide tension on the dog.
Has anyone had any problems when they used an AL spool in this reel? It was spinning perfect - both free spool and when in gear, now that I replaced the spool it is jerky jerky and has almost no free spool movement. I can recall someone else mentioning this but I can't find the solution.
Adjust the bearing on the non handle side.
That doesn't do anything, I have it in the loosest position and it still sticks. Not sure if the AL has a longer spool shaft or something but It won't spin nice no matter what kind of adjusting I do to the side bearings. Again the reel works flawless with the standard metal spool.
I checked for this problem online and it seems others have had the same problem - I replaced the stock spool on my Penn 350 with an AL and there are no issues, not sure why the AL spool is binding up in the 200?
I have replaced just about all my Surfmasters to an aluminum spool and haven't run into any issues. You see this a lot with Jigmasters too. It is usually related to the pinion gear or the frame being tweaked.
I've run into that problem, but only with a newell spool. The spool shaft on the newell is a little larger than penn. If your spool is from penn, try new bushings they're only $4 each. If it happens to be a newell spool, you'll need to choke it up on a drill and let the tip of the spool shaft spin on some fine sandpaper for about 20 seconds, that should take care of it.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on February 10, 2014, 11:57:03 PM
I prefer to dremel mine so I can blow some carbon fiber boogers for a couple days. :P
I would suggest wearing a dust mask ata minimum or a N-95 mask if possible. those fibers would be rough on th elungs, and I would hate to hear of fibertosis 20 years from now on this forum.
I only do it outside now with a fan blowing the dust away from me. I am going to start punching them out, so the dremel will no longer be used.
Here is something interesting. It seems that the 200 is the only Surfmaster with the leaf dog spring. The others all have a coil spring, at least according to the schematics at Scott's. Can anybody comment on how and why that is? Thanks.
Quote from: mike1010 on February 17, 2015, 06:52:40 PM
Here is something interesting. It seems that the 200 is the only Surfmaster with the leaf dog spring. The others all have a coil spring, at least according to the schematics at Scott's. Can anybody comment on how and why that is? Thanks.
I have 6 or so of the smaller surfmasters (200, 150 an 100) and have worked on several more, so far they have all had the flat spring.
I have a couple of dozen and I'm not exaggerating, opened everyone of them, 100, 150 and 200, all have the flat spring.
I just looked at the schematics, the drawings are wrong. Go to where you order and checkout the photo of the spring there, all 3 reels take the standard flat 14-155 spring and 15-200 dog.
Sal and Lee, You are correct. I'm mixing these up with the Long beaches. They are the ones that come both ways.
I removed my original response.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on February 17, 2015, 11:16:08 PM
Sal and Lee, You are correct. I'm mixing these up with the Long beaches. They are the ones that come both ways.
I removed my original response.
We all have our d'oh! moments.
Your not kidding Lee! :D
I just hate when I give wrong advice. Someday, there will be a torch to pass on.
We have to get it right! ;)
Mistakes are part of the learning process and when we are wrong we need to recognize it, that's how we learn.
Thanks, everyone. Good detective work, Lee.
dunno if you went to al spools yet but they turn the 200 into a pretty decent caster....plastic ones explode under mono load (not to mention if you drop it, it chips easily) and the chrome has a lot of inertia for casting but ok if youre boat fishing
I converted my 200 to a 100, and the kit includes an aluminum spool, which is an improvement. The plastic spools are fragile, but I think they cast okay.
Mike
Not in the same league with her blinged-out big siblings, but still a sweet little resto-mod Surfmaster 200:
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000703_zps36o7rwre.jpg)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000704_zpslmvb8vmj.jpg)
Back in fighting trim and ready for action again! :D
~A~
Beautiful, Aiala --
That aluminum spool makes this little 200 SM very capable.
Nice job!
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on December 17, 2015, 05:55:25 PM
Beautiful, Aiala -- That aluminum spool makes this little 200 SM very capable. Nice job! Best, Fred
Thanks, Fred! Coming from you, that's a huge compliment indeed. :)
Now, if I could only find some surf to try her out in... not much of it here in the desert. :(
~
A~
I love those, and use the butterscotch bakelite whenever possible on a rebuild- fav. You can tune it a bit with STP in the tail side bushing; with the al spool it can be quite manageable for a good toss. i have put together SS clamp kits if you need one, just pm me. You will have to tell me intended seat diameter (likely 22) so I can cut the studs to fit for acorn nuts....much cleaner than wingnuts.
Perfect timing as usual Daron lol, my dad just gave me a bag of parts and said "here, see what This is". Turns out it's a SurfMaster 200, and your post pretty much answers all of my questions. Any progress yet?
Not sure what you mean by progress. I finished this reel on page 4.
Aiala, you could always drive down to Red Hill Marina and practice long distance casting just trying to hit the water from the launch.....I haven't seen it lately, but I bet it's a good 1/4 mile by now...... ;D
I wounder if there is a surfmaster 200 aluminum side plates in the future?
Joe
Quote from: TARFU on December 27, 2015, 06:13:05 PM
Aiala, you could always drive down to Red Hill Marina and practice long distance casting just trying to hit the water from the launch.....I haven't seen it lately, but I bet it's a good 1/4 mile by now...... ;D
Bill, I haven't been down that way in close to twenty years, but I'll bet you're right. Makes me kind of sad, remembering the great days of corvina fishing I used to enjoy back then. :-\
~
A~
Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 27, 2015, 03:51:58 PM
Not sure what you mean by progress. I finished this reel on page 4.
New to using an iPad, guess I totally skipped page 4 lol. Looks great man
Quote from: Reel 224 on December 27, 2015, 06:16:32 PM
I wounder if there is a surfmaster 200 aluminum side plates in the future?
Joe
I highly doubt it. Not enough market demand.
I learned that the corvina had died off about 2 years ago. Blew me away, I also haven't been down there since before the Navy. I was staying in a resort in Indio (it is still hard for me to think of indio as having resorts) and wanted to take the kids to my old stomping grounds.
Nice reel. I have made the drive to San Diego from Yuma in an afternoon. Might be worth a weekend trip.
Ron
Please help me date a surfmaster 200.
Here is a pic of the left side bearing. Notice the wide knurl (top pic) compared to the bottom one.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/19329_18_12_18_9_23_29.jpeg)
Here is a pic of the take apart screw (also note the wide knurl).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/19329_18_12_18_9_24_53.jpeg)
Here is a pic of the inside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/26/19329_18_12_18_9_25_24.jpeg)
Thank you.
Interesting question, I just don't know if anyone can answer with the information provided. There were many, many minor hardware variations of this type through the years, and I'm not sure anyone has actually sat down and started looking at these little things carefully - it may be that the variation was so often that no sense can be made of it - as none of these little design changes affect function no one really paid much attention to them - little things like this and things like the shape of some screw heads (most notably the handle locking screw) varied in ways that may not yet have been documented. More than likely these little variations reflect changes in manufacture from companies supplying Penn with parts - I don't think Penn made all the little hardware pieces in-house. I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a picture of how the dog and leaf spring are oriented in a Surfmaster 250?
hi ,
i got a rusty surfmaster 200
lately..
(my guess is late 50 ´s to mid 60´s)
i started to clean up and wanted to grease/oil it.
one thing i first noted was that the side plate wont come off
with the take apart system though the tilt screw works fine..
so i guess the side plate is backed from all the years of saltwater use.
found a video in which it shows to flood the side plate with penetrating oil
and use the handle turning anticlockwise to use force on the sideplate,
but that didnt worked in my case,
and i guess i chipped two or three teeth of the gear sleeve /anti reverse lever
because of too much force via the handle (see photos)
-can i file down the teeth a bit (make a ridge, where they chipped)?
-how to i get only the gear sleeve with teeth, all i see in ebay are complete bridges (part number?)
-how to disassemble the lever from the gear shaft?
-what to do with the backed sideplate, is there any way to free it from the rust inside
(backing oven ?)
unfortunately i´m located in europe, so finding parts here is not that easy.
thanx so far...
more photos
Bakelite swells with age and prolonged exposure to moisture. I've had successes and failures wrapping a pair of channel locks with towel before gripping the side plate and twisting.
thanx...
i have a bicycle tool for racing bike bottom brackets removal.
it has two pins that fit perfect in two of the four
screw holes of the side plate..
i will fix the reel in a bench vise, with a towel between the
gap to the sideplate, and then try to find a method to
fix the tilt screw in upper position, that i dont have to
hold it pulled out of the frame with my fingers.
then turn the bicyle tool anticlockwise.
(maybe i use a pipe as a longer lever)
as for now it sits in on my workbench flooded again with fluid film.
It's too bad that shipping costs are so high here. I might have a gear sleeve that would fit. There's the high cost and the stupid customs form that needs to be sent. Last time I sent one, scammers targeted me. How would they intercept something like that?
Keep us updated on your progress, it's a common problem on older Penn "quick take-apart" side-plates.
thanx...
i found a whole bridge with anti-reverse lever on ebay us.
for around 23 dollars incl. shipping.
(without gear, but the one in mine is in good shape for the age)
but first i will take care of the sideplate/take apart system..
will keep u updated.
Ja, tatsachlich!
Well, if anyone decides to sacrifice the inner ring like I did, be careful with the darn dremel! Was going to start a thread about my 150 a while ago, but another member had just started one and didn't want to interfere with his thread. I had tried everything I could. Tried heat, cold, soaking etc. So just decided to cut it. No good rotten cheap dremel wheel broke, and hit me in the nose and face! Best part, I'm on blood thinners, blood was everywhere. Good thing I had safety glasses on! So just had to take a break from tinkering around for a while. It's still sitting in a pile. Now, I think I just ran into another 150 with an original Penn aluminum spool. Shame someone dropped the spool, it has a small dent in the lip.
The problem with many old Penn Surfmasters and other similar reels you buy on fleabay were not taken care of. I encountered many old Penns where the sideplates will not come apart because the old grease dried up and or the saltwater had bonded the metal. I took apart the reels from the posts and removed all the handle side gears. Then I soaked the sideplate with the rings in hot water or hot expired soda. I let it soaked overnight. I have a few pinions that were stuck to the spool shafts too.
Dubsetter, looks like your gear sleeve is toasted but I am glad you found a replacement.
yea..
you never know what the pre owner(s) did/did not with the reel.
(i hope no one glued the side plate on the frame !!)
with the "gear sleeve " you mean the anti reverse ring/lever ?
yea i guess i broke two teeth when trying to rotate the sideplate via the handle.
as i understood these teeth are only for stop the handle doing a backbards spin??
it has nothing to do with the gear or the brake??
i was thinking maybe trying to file a bit the broken teeth
to make a "new gap"... but maybe i understood something wrong.
now i know that what i meant as the "anti-reverse lever" is called gear sleeve..
maybe i will also search under that name for a spare part.
sorry ..but english is not my mother language.
like this ad:
gear sleeve (https://www.ebay.com/itm/224712471149?_trksid=p2332490.c101224.m-1)
(only as example i have to look after the right part number, someone knows it for the 200?
my bridge says: 3-200)
free sideplate... ;D
i guess fluid film over night
and the bicylcle tool made the trick...
Yes, the Penn 98-60 (or #098-060) gear sleeve generally fits many older Penn reels, but for the Penn 200M (Surfmaster), it depends on the specific production year of your reel.
Some oldest Penn 200M reels use a smaller gear sleeve, the 98-155.
You can measure the diameter of your current gear sleeve's ratchet (the geared part at the top):
98-60 (Coarse): approx 0.8 inches about 2.03 cm.
98-155 (Fine): 0.6 inches about 1.52 cm.
ah okay, thanx for the info...
with the diameter you mean the anti reverse (teeth) ratchet measured from outside?
that´s the only position i got aprox 1,52 cm..
but i found out that the star from my seaboy 85L fits as well on the sleeve
its a 10-60 star.
the ratchet has 8 teeth.
as the star is a 10-60 i guess i have 98-60 sleeve then ??
if anybody has a spare sleeve (with working ratchet)
let me know..
other wise i will look on ebay, or maybe buy the whole bridge
i already mentioned.
i ordered this bridge now..
bridge (https://www.ebay.de/itm/285424460650)
i will exchange the sleeve from the ordered one
to my bridge one as mine is stainless steel instead of brass...
does anyone know the diameter of that small pin that goes through the sleeve (in mm?)
also im still working on that take apart side plate..
its still hard to get it back on
as it seems somewhere too tight on the frame...
i already greased it and put fluid film into gap of the ring.
(screws (heads) are sitting flush on the frame)
Quote from: dubsetter on Today at 02:31:24 PMi ordered this bridge now..
bridge (https://www.ebay.de/itm/285424460650)
i will exchange the sleeve from the ordered one
to my bridge one as mine is stainless steel instead of brass...
does anyone know the diameter of that small pin that goes through the sleeve (in mm?)
also im still working on that take apart side plate..
its still hard to get it back on
as it seems somewhere too tight on the frame...
i already greased it and put fluid film into gap of the ring.
(screws (heads) are sitting flush on the frame)
The new sleeve should come with a pin. and if it doesn't, it's designed to accommodate the existing pin anyway. So you can reuse that.
yea.. i forgot to mention that i need
the diameter for the tool to remove that pin... ;)
Quote from: dubsetter on Today at 03:13:56 PMyea.. i forgot to mention that i need
the diameter for the tool to remove that pin... ;)
Ahh very different problem. It doesn't need to be the right diameter . It just needs to be smaller. A finish nail works well. Some folks use a jewelers watch band tool. One fellow I know has a hole drilled at the edge of his bench and he taps it thru with a small nail. All you need to do is get it started and then pull out with a pair of pliers.
yap..
it needs to be smaller.. thats why i asked.
i ordered now a 0.9 mm tool (pin punch)
as i have a lot of tweezers, screwdrivers,pliers etc..
but missed to buy a set of these.
anyway thanx ..
i will report when the conversion is done.
(might take a while though, as the bridge /sleeve will
be shipped overseas which will take at least two weeks.)