Hey gang,
Long time lurker, first time poster. This community has been fantastic and this winter I finally worked up the courage to crack a few of my Peen reels open and fully treat them to the methods prescribed here. I've cleaned and greased/oiled 2 309s so far and am currently working on my jigmaster. So my question: I was inspecting the gear sleeve (98-505) closely and noticed the bottom 3 threads one side are worn down (they almost look crimped). I'm not sure if this happened in use or the sleeve is designed this way.
If I need a new sleeve is it worth putting on a SS 98-505? I mostly fish Haddock and Stripers (yak trolling) in and around the Gulf of Maine with this reel. I have no clue if these fish would pull more than 8lbs of drag - I suspect not. Would a 40lb Striper making a run into structure or 30lb cod (while Haddock fishing) pulled from the depths justify more drag? The $20 extra isn't a big deal so if you think it makes sense I'd put one on.
Who do I PM for the SS 98-505. Is that Alan directly?
Thanks for the feedback!
Jay
Welcome coastalVT. The SS sleeve is highly recommended!
Bob
Welcome! ;D
If they are on the very bottom of the threads, they probably won't get used. You shouldn't be able to crank down the star far enough to get to them because of the drags.
If money is not an issue go with the SS 8)
Yes definitely go with the SS if it is no problem. It may be a few dollars more right now but for the long hall it it definietly worth every penny spent. You can never go wrong with the SS Sleeves.
Thanks guys. I'll send a message to Alan to see if he still has some.
CoastalVT, I'm not 100% positive but I think Alan has a kit that consists of the sleeve,SS dog and a washer for under the gear. Just check with Mr. T.
Bob
oh, that would be great! When I emailed him I did ask about the SS dog.
Jay
gotcha covered. thanks!
Aloha!
Jay, your going to be happy that you did.
received my new ss gear sleeve kit in the mail today. Thanks Alan! A couple of installation questions:
1. Should I grease the post with Cals or the marine grease?
2. The Carbontex washer that'll replace the plastic stock washer under the main gear; a.) should this be greased with Cals, and b.) which way should it be installed? One side looks like a looser weave than the other side.
Thanks,
Jay
i just use corrosion x on the gear sleeve. with the carbontex drag, either side up is fine and slather on the grease! it will work great.
Hi Alan,
I got my two SS sleeves in the mail today too.
Gonna install them tonite.
Thanks for your service.
Stuart
Hey gang,
Need some help here... I installed the gear sleeve and the real is back together with one problem. When I crank the handle the spool will turn smoothly, but as I increase my retrieve speed the spool slips and stops retrieving line as the handle continues to turn. It seems somewhat sporadic and I'm not sure if the spool is slipping out of the pinon gear or what. Anyone ever have this problem and if so what should I check?
Thanks,
Jay
If the pinion was slipping on the spool, you would be getting a grinding noise. Sounds drag related. Did you put new drags in?
Try putting a little pressure on the spool as you turn the handle and see it it's the pinion not being engaged on the spool.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on February 18, 2014, 03:01:26 AM
If the pinion was slipping on the spool, you would be getting a grinding noise. Sounds drag related. Did you put new drags in?
No, the drags looked ok so I didn't replace. I have some new ones that I can try.
Quote from: Keta on February 18, 2014, 03:36:53 AM
Try putting a little pressure on the spool as you turn the handle and see it it's the pinion not being engaged on the spool.
What lee said. Sometimes you need a little drag on the spool for it to engage the pinion gear.
Also, your last eared washer probably came out of the groves. It happens often, well on me anyway.
Welcome by the way, Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 18, 2014, 12:31:43 PM
Also, your last eared washer probably came out of the groves. It happens often, well on me anyway.
Welcome by the way, Sal
X2
Quote from: Keta on February 18, 2014, 02:31:51 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 18, 2014, 12:31:43 PM
Also, your last eared washer probably came out of the groves. It happens often, well on me anyway.
Welcome by the way, Sal
X2
me 3
Thank you all for the recommendations. The spool still disengages (handle continues to turn) with drag/thumb pressure. I'll break'er back down to ensure the eared washer is seated in the slots.
Quote from: coastalVT on February 20, 2014, 02:39:17 AM
Thank you all for the recommendations. The spool still disengages (handle continues to turn) with drag/thumb pressure. I'll break'er back down to ensure the eared washer is seated in the slots.
I Replaced the drag set and that seemed to do it. Is the tension spring (last washer on the stack) supposed to be concave or flat? When I first broke the reel down I noticed that that washer was 'bent' so I tried to straighten it out. Maybe that was the rookie mistake I made.....
Thanks for your help with this. It has been a fun learning experience for me!
Quote from: coastalVT on February 24, 2014, 11:43:10 AM
I Replaced the drag set and that seemed to do it. Is the tension spring (last washer on the stack) supposed to be concave or flat? When I first broke the reel down I noticed that that washer was 'bent' so I tried to straighten it out. Maybe that was the rookie mistake I made.....
Thanks for your help with this. It has been a fun learning experience for me!
The tension spring washer should look twisted. Glad you're having fun ;)
Yes "wavy" is a better description.
The stock washer should be a wavey spring washer. If you install my set, it would be concave.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 24, 2014, 02:10:19 PM
The stock washer should be a wavey spring washer. If you install my set, it would be concave.
Bryan: What's your "set?"
Ah! So many modification options!
I guess I'll stop straightening out those wavy washers! Ha! Lesson learned.
Jay
Stock, the gear contains 3 carbon fiber washers and 3 metal washers. I have increased that to 5 carbon fiber washers and 5 metal washers to achieve 24+ pounds of drag. There are tradeoffs by going to this set up, such as the drag ramps up quickly, and would higly recommend using a 505/506 gear sleeves and stars because of the finer threads. This stack will also all me to provide a belleville washer versus that wavy spring washer for a better destributed pressure to the drag washers.
So, if you are fishing your jigmaster with 50# or 65# braid, now this drag set up will allow you to do so easily. The cost is $27 shipped in the USA.
Bryan
I've never learned how to change the gear sleeve, and it's about time I did. So, what tool(s) should I buy to extract the retaining pin? And is it a very difficult operation? I don't have a workbench, vise, anything like that... just my kitchen counter. :)
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on February 26, 2014, 03:58:15 PM
I've never learned how to change the gear sleeve, and it's about time I did. So, what tool(s) should I buy to extract the retaining pin? And is it a very difficult operation? I don't have a workbench, vise, anything like that... just my kitchen counter. :)
~A~
It's very, very simple Aiala.
All you need is a punch of some kind (even a nail will do) to get the pin moving. You'll find it flush to the shaft about half way down. They can be frozen or pop out super easy. This pin rides inside a groove in the stud and anchors the gear sleeve which will become obvious once removed. A very simple and time proven mechanism.
Once the pin is popped out the gear shaft simply lifts right off. Some of the pins for the stainless replacement gear sleeves are a touch long (mine wasn't) when you replace them and need a tiny bit of filing down. Any standard file will work if needed.
If you look at Alan's and other posts they sometimes have a modified tool for squeezing the pins back in but this is not required, just convenient for doing many. Gentle taps and maybe the last bit with your punch is all you need. Once you can get the gear and washers back on over the pin you are gtg.
best
Thank you, John! Question: I don't have a punch, so when I go to the hardware store is there a specific size I should ask for? :)
~A~
A 1/16" pin punch is what I have. Bob
If it's not fused in you can bend a paper clip and sometimes get them out. You are much better off with a pin punch. I have a metal plate with a hole in it to drive the pin into but a wood block will work just as well.
You can get a small pin punch at Wal Mart, Aiala.
Its in between the straight pic and vice grips in this pic.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_22151_zps79998299.jpg)
The 1/16" pin punch and wooden block worked like a charm! Thanks, guys! ;)
Next question: For lubing the sleeve's inner surface, Cal's grease or synthetic oil?
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on February 26, 2014, 10:31:47 PM
The 1/16" pin punch and wooden block worked like a charm! Thanks, guys! ;)
Next question: For lubing the sleeve's inner surface, Cal's grease or synthetic oil?
~A~
Alan has always recommended synthetic oil. My first instinct is to use heavy marine grease for durability but the gear sleeve is open at the top so you can always add more oil. Much easier than removing it again to get grease in there.
best
I just put Penn blue grease on the sleeve shaft and inside the sleeve. You can see it oozing out from under the ss sleeve in the pic.
Hopefully this will prevent any galling.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on February 26, 2014, 11:09:57 PM
I just put Penn blue grease on the sleeve shaft and inside the sleeve.
Hm, unfortunately I don't have any Penn blue grease... maybe I'll use a little Cal's
and some synthetic oil... anything wrong with that? ???
~A~
Quote from: Aiala on February 26, 2014, 11:16:39 PM
Hm, unfortunately I don't have any Penn blue grease... maybe I'll use a little Cal's and some synthetic oil... anything wrong with that? ???
One or the other.
Quote from: Keta on February 26, 2014, 11:30:50 PM
One or the other.
Okay. Well, if Alan recommends synthetic oil, I'll go with that. :)
~A~
Accurate is one of the few companies I have found that routinely greases their entire reel with Cal's. However, notably, they also recommend a little Cal's and Corrosion-x in their ARB's.
I also have lightened up heavy marine grease at times by mixing it with Corrosion-X and have had no trouble.
Point being that if you use Cal's, then add some oil later it is no big thang to mix them.
Let's see some pictures!
best
I like to use the purple Cal's Lite if I'm greasing the bridge shaft.
I also use Penn blue grease, since I'm already using it on everything else, well except the drags, Cal's for the drags.
I cut the Penn grease for the bridge shaft with either Penn Oil or TSI 321 to about 1/2 the thickness. Full strength on rest of the reel except the drags which is Cal's Grease