Hey Folks,
After years of upgrading my reels Im finally nearing adding braid to my reels. I recogonize this to be a costly endeavor so I will spool up with braid gradually. This will be a learning process for me as well for only a few of my reels have braid on them and only one of those is spooled correctly by accident.
How Ive planned to spool my reels is follow suit as the long range guys do. That is to use solid core braid as my base, connected to hollow core to join the solid braid via hollow to my top shots. This method appeals to me on a couple of levels. First and foremost is economy, and then simplicity of loop 2 loop (L2L) connections. If anyone notices errors/flaws with my procedure please comment for Im new at this. Also, whatever termonology/slang you decide to use please remember that I am not versed so please include some explination from TIME TO TIME. Im not asking that you explain every term just be considerate of my lack of knowledge at the moment.
So,for the first braid weight I plan to utilize the solid > hollow > top shot process with is 40# solid > 60# hollow > top shot. Is this practical AND possible? From what Ive read so far I understand their is a practical limit of how small of line 60# hollow will hold effectively, is 40# solid too small to be held securely by 60# hollow? I also plan to use top shots from 12#-50# with the 60# hollow if possible?
My second question of the moment is; using the same solid > hollow > top shot process. Will 100# hollow SECURELY hold 100# solid braid and 100# mono top shot? Or will I need to bump the hollow braid up to 120# to securely hold the 100# solid braid and 100# topshot?
Lastly, what type of tools does one use to connect the l2l connections? I understand there are several types of needles with pro's and cons to their usage.
Thanx in advance for your assistance,
Leo
Is this practical AND possible?
Yes, slip 3'-4' of the 40# into the 60# and tie an overhand knot close to where it goes in to keep the 40 from sliding out. I use 40# or 60# hollow for all of my L2L topshots from 20# to 50#.
My second question of the moment is; using the same solid > hollow > top shot process. Will 100# hollow SECURELY hold 100# solid braid and 100# mono top shot? Or will I need to bump the hollow braid up to 120# to securely hold the 100# solid braid and 100# topshot?
100# to 100# works but it's easier and faster to do 100# to 130#.
Lastly, what type of tools does one use to connect the L2L connections? I understand there are several types of needles with pro's and cons to their usage.
To connect them takes a pair of hands and at least one working eye, to make them takes a loop puller (a bent piece of solid wire leader works too), the proper size hollow needle and some 30#-40# solid spectra to serve the connection.
Thanx a million Lee,
The term "serve" was a mystry to me for the longest. I'd seen video's of guys using the bobbin of material/braid to wrap around the connections/termination points, but no one said that this was serving the connection. Until maxpowers defined this for me in another post I was clueless and I had searched this entire section trying to get a clue.
Evidently I only need two sizes of needles. One to thread 60#hollow and one to thread 100# hollow, is that right? Or will the needle size depend on the size of the host line being threaded into the hollow core?
Leo
PS Lee please post a picture of your tennis ball tensioning device when you get a chance. This is fundamental as the needles. Thanx again.
Forgot to ask,
How much hollow braid as a minum length to use as a transition between the solid and the top shot? Also, is this SOLID > HOLLOW > TOPSHOT method a realistic/practical and effecient/effective method or is there a better method I should deploy?
Leo
My USB ports are now working, I will take a photo tomorrow.
If I use solid I put a multi colored (color change every 30') "mid shot" on it that is from 150' to 500' depending on the depth I'm fishing. If it's just for L2L 20' will work.
As for the hollow needle size it's dependent on the mono size not the spectra size. My servings are 2 10 turn nail knots spaced 1/2" apart.
Leo,
Where are in in Socal? If you want to meet up somewhere one of these days, I will bring some of my stuff and show you what I do for my solid > hollow>loop and loop<hollow<mono connection. Only investment I made so far was 2 hollow needles that can do from 20 lbs to 80 lbs test mono.
Hi Leo. I'm a little confused. And it's probably me.
I would fill the reel with solid braid with about 1/4 in from the top. Then I would tie a bimini in the solid braid to create the loop on the spool. Then the top shot - I would use the hollow braid to form the loop and secure the mono/fluorocarbon in the hollow braid. Is that what you are saying?
Leo,
Do an internet search about making L2L connections, there is alot of good stuff out there. Check out Basil's website www.bhptackle.com , You Tube and Mark's site www.Charkbait.com Of course you have to weed through what people are selling but you will get a good idea on what is needed. Just like anything with fishing there are a lot of gizmos and gadgets but most of the time the most basic stuff gets the job done well.
I like to fish my spectra's backing breaking strength at least one step above the mono/fluoro's breaking strength. Going from 40 solid to 60 hollow in order to make loops in the 60 I fully understand as most 50lb and below hollow spectra is a PITA to work with but the lighter 40lb backing is where I'd like my topshot to stay below. So for me that would make my topshots 30lb test and below. Set up like this if there is a breakoff it will most likely happen in the topshot and not deep into the spectra backing where more hollow or solid may need to be added. If that does happen deep into the backing then a new loop will have to be made at the very least. Of course I'm only talking break off's and not saw off's from other anglers, structure or boat/prop rub.
Gentlemen thanx for your comments,
Dont mean to confuse however Im using the wrong terms in place of each other.
Lee, glad to hear you've got USB ports back up. What I meant to ask was, what is the minimum/maximum amount of hollow braid to "serve" between the solid braid and the topshot. My logic see's it as stuffing some solid braid into the hollow on one end. Then some length of hollow braid followed by inserting some length of topshot into the transition piece of hollow braid. Evidently the transition piece of hollow braid can be hundreds of feet, however what would one suggest as a minimum length for the transition piece.
Bryan, the above method is what I had in mind. However I was probably also thinking of and mixing up L2L connections "as" this same method due to my ignorance of braid methodologies at the moment. I also like the idea of L2L for the ease of ability to have premade topshot ready to go and deploy without needing needles. I also understand that I dont need hollow braid as a transition line to do this now. This is why I asked initially was the serving method using hollow braid practical/realistic/effecient. I now must ponder when to use the two methods. Is serving more secure than L2L or visa versa?
SoCal, I look forward to fishing with you God willing some time soon hopefully and appreciate your offer to meet up one day. Hopefully I will finish up with what I call the hardware phase of my upgrades (drags, bearings, Kolekars, handles, etc) in the next month. Then move on to the software phase of upgrading which I refere to line (braid, backing, mono, flurocarbon). Im glad it wasnt this tricky 30 years ago when I first started fishing for I probably wouldnt have gotten into fishing. SoCal I will do as you suggest with the internet search with the initial direction that you have provided that I can multiply from/with.
So, right now Im kinda getting the lay of the land and feeling my way around. I can see already that some of the methods lend themselves better to trolling and others for bait and jig fishing. I will need to study more to see how I will apply this technology to my various applications/needs.
Please keep the comments coming, Im learning exponentially.
Thanx,
Leo
PS I also plan to copy the information given here into my notebook and use as a guideline to spooling-up with braid. Thanks gentlemen.
Leo,
A serve is merely a way to maintain pressure on the hollow braid so that the Chinese finger trap will continue to work. There are different ways to serve:
1. overhand knot - easy o do and secure but leave a bulky knot
2. pressure serve - compact design, prone to failure if done incorrectly, need a serve set up minimally
3. Sato crimp method - easy to do, not prone to failure, expensive to use
4. nail/nub method - easy, compact, low rate of failure, time consuming to do
The hollow sleeve between the solid and mono/flouro is probably the cleanest connection but you sacrificed the versatility of being able to change top shot on the fly because each time you have to cut off a portion of the sleeve, you have to reinsert the mono. Larger diameter mono and hollow you could probably get away with not having to use a hollow needle but smaller diameter mono will be a pain to work on. Another method is to have a premade leaders and in-line spliced the hollow braids. Easy to do and the splice is 100%, Downside is you need some space and nice lighting to work on.
Most common method is creating a loop in the hollow braid on both the mainline and the leader and just connect via loop to loop.
Quote from: LTM on February 14, 2014, 06:42:50 AM
what would one suggest as a minimum length for the transition piece.
You could get by with 20' but you will have to replace it more often.
Quote from: maxpowers on February 14, 2014, 07:02:15 AM
4. nail/nub method - easy, compact, low rate of failure, time consuming to do
A quick way is a 10 turn uni.
I splice Spectra to Spectra (in line splice) with my 80# and up topshots.
Bryan, a 4 or 5 turn surgeons loop is faster than a Bimini and just as strong, both will work.
Gents,
Specifically why whould one use the more expensive hollow braid as a base under their top shot of mono/floro?
Leo
Quote from: LTM on February 14, 2014, 03:16:59 PM
Gents,
Specifically why whould one use the more expensive hollow braid as a base under their top shot of mono/floro?
Leo
Bad spots can be cut out and the line spliced back together and I like the way hollow lays and works , most of my reels are filled with 100% hollow. The cost is considerably higher but I have 15 year old Spectra on my reels that I have only had to splice in new 100' sections on the end to use. Getting my line at resale price helps too and my "retail" price for JB is about as low as you will find.
For me I use solid spectra on my reels that I use 50lb and less topshots. The knot I use to connect the two easily passes through my rod guides on reels that I have long toppers on while fighting fish. When I get to 60lb and over is where I start to use other connections. Is it the best to tie solid to my topshot? Maybe not but I have not lost fish and no extra tools are required.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on February 14, 2014, 04:01:54 PM
Is it the best to tie solid to my topshot? Maybe not but I have not lost fish and no extra tools are required.
As long as it passes through your guides a knot is just as good as a L2L and far easier.
If i had time to prep my gear the the preferred method is in line splicing of the leader to the hollow to the solid braid. if I got cut off and don't have another similiar rig ready, then I would just tie a quick pena and get back to the bite. in between moves i would splice a new leader on. as far as tool, i only need a pice of wire to splice the hollow braid to hollow braid. if i have to splice a new hollow sleeve onto my solid braid, all i need is the wire, some 20 or 30 lbs solid braid for the nail knots and a coffee straw. maybe 10 minutes max to splice on the hollow sleeve.
Double up the 40lb braid when you do it, u can use a sewing needle to pull it through just cut a slit in the eye
For my topshots going from solid spectra to mono/fluoro I use the Bob Sands knot.
Gentlemen,
This is an update to let you know Im still here studying this good info you have presented and thank you again. HOWEVER, Im somewhat distracted for I have won an auction on ebay for a Penn 750SS and Im EXCITED ;D ;D. So, Im back now to figure out some more "jargon" and methodology/technique.
Leo
Inserting line into hollow Spectra/PE is as close to 100% as you can get. Knots is Spectra/PE are generally 74% of the stated line strength. If you never exceed 74% it won't brake. But if you fish large fish that can run a lot of line off of a reel Well it happens. As you get spooled the pressure goes up. It is a guessing game as how mush to back off, to reduce the pressure.
Some of the guys that fish big fish are now using about 150 yds. of solid spliced to there Hollow. This has two advantages: 1. The solid is less money and as it takes most of the wear it is replaced. 2. Is is far easier to see frays, and nicks in the solid than in hollow.
If you go down one or two sizes of solid inserted into hollow you should not have a issue. Technology is always chaining. There is at least one brand of hollow on the market that is easier to work with in the small sizes. Hollow is now available down to 20# test. 80# leader can be inserted into 20# hollow.
That is a great advantage when fishing line shy toothy critters like here if Florida. Try all of the methods to connect Spectra to it self, or other lines. Judge for you self, opinions are just that opinions. Get comfortable with it and use what satisfies your needs. Hope this helps.
Normslanding,
Thanx for that info, please give some brand names. To clarify now, your stating that some are using solid braid as a "top shot" for their hollow braid correct?
Leo
Most of the name brand solids are good. Izor, Cortland, Jerry Brown, Toro. The weave (strands) makes a lot of difference. Personally I use a solid produce from China, it is a 8 weave. As to hollow the same applies. Izor, Cortland, Toro, etc. Don't use off brands, or Spiderwire, or Powerpro, solids are ho-hum 4 weave. The Powerpro Hollow Ace is not a bad product, others are better.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 14, 2014, 05:21:08 AM
Hi Leo. I'm a little confused. And it's probably me.
I would fill the reel with solid braid with about 1/4 in from the top. Then I would tie a bimini in the solid braid to create the loop on the spool. Then the top shot - I would use the hollow braid to form the loop and secure the mono/fluorocarbon in the hollow braid. Is that what you are saying?
Bryan,
Putting a loop in solid spectra the Bimini Twist works well, there is some debate on how many turns to make the Bimini though. I was taught 40-45 twists but others say 12 is better, as I have no way to test this I use the 40 to 45 on heavier stuff.
What Leo is looking for is connecting the solid spectra to the hollow. Using hollow you are able to make a knotless connection between the solid and hollow spectra's. Then you make another knotless loop in the hollow where you attach the topshot. Ok got me so far?? If you do here is the last step, you have premade topshots. The topshots are made with mono/fluoro but they are made with a spectra loop on one end also. I know its a liltte long but you attach the topshot to the spliced in piece of hollow using a cats paw to connect the loop from the spliced in piece of hollow to a topshot which also has a loop of spectra. Using a cats paw connection allows you to attach a new premade topshot quickly to the line.
Doing this takes out the sometimes bulky knots and gives you close if not 100% of the lines breaking strength.
Thanx SoCal,
Knot (haha) being an expert, this very much sounds like what I have in mind (just dont know what a Cats Paw is yet). On another note regarding using hollow as you base. It would seem to my lack of knowledge self that hollow braid's strands would become creased and weaken over time under all that pressure vs solid braid. It would also seem that solid braid would be more abbrasion resistant than hollow?
Thanx,
Leo
A cats paw is the connection between the two loops. It's a matter of inserting the topshot loop through the mainline loop then taking the topshot and looping it through its own loop two or three times. When you tighten the topshot loop to the mainline loop the spectra connection should line up and not be over lapping its self. When tightened the spectra from the topshot should look like a cats paw.
EDIT: I do not think it matters how many times you loop the topshot to make the cats paw but the more loops the better chance of them crossing over one another and this could weaken the connection
Thanx SoCal thats what I thought. So guys tell me, Why cant one just stuff the solid braid backing into the hollow transition braid and do the same stuffing of the topshot into the hollow braid on the other end? Sounds very simple in theory.
Leo
Quote from: LTM on February 17, 2014, 07:46:51 AM
It would also seem that solid braid would be more abbrasion resistant than hollow?
No I don't think so, any damage to either solid or hollow will result is weaker spectra.
As we know spectra is made from several strands of PE weaved together and each strand in turn is made of several/many filaments. Damage to just to a couple of filaments in a single strand can and most likely will weaken the spectras breaking strength a great deal. It does not matter if it is solid or hollow. Spectra has terrible abrasion resistance. Thats why in a earlier post I mentioned boat/and line rub because sonner or later this could happen and weaken your backing.
Quote from: LTM on February 17, 2014, 06:00:30 PM
Thanx SoCal thats what I thought. So guys tell me, Why cant one just stuff the solid braid backing into the hollow transition braid and do the same stuffing of the topshot into the hollow braid on the other end? Sounds very simple in theory.
Leo
The cats paw is only to connect the two loops together, the one loop on the main line comming off the reel and the other loop on the premade topshot.
Thats how it is done but where the the two lines come together, say fluoro inserted into the hollow you need something to hold the hollow spectra from slipping up the fluoro when there is no tension on the lines. When there is tension the hollow acts like the old Chinese finger cuff's and grips tighter and tighter with the more pressure applied. But, when there is little or no tension the spectra can and does slip back up the fluoro without something stopping it, like a serve, Sato crimp or the weakest stop a over hand knot.
Yes SoCal,
I understand the need to terminate the line inserted into the hollow, and the hollow acting like the Chinese finger thingy. So, why not just thread the solid backing into the hollow and terminate/serve and do the same for the opposite end of the hollow with the top shot? Easy peasy right?
Leo
I tie 3-4 foot surgeons loop in the solid, slide it into the hollow until the knot is 1 to 1-1/2 inches into the hollow then serve with 2 10 turn nail knots. Jerry Brown just slides 3-4 feet of solid into the hollow and ties a overhand knot in both to keep the solid from slipping out.
Lee,
Why dont you do this for the topshot end to attach the topshot?
The knot is too large with mono.
OK Lee,
Now Im beginning to understand. Since braid is typically 1/3 the size of its mono equivalent, and the mono/fluro topshot being 2X/200% or larger than the braid. So to pass thru guides its much better to connect the smaller material (being braid) for a much easier movement thru guides/rollers. Lee, I sure would benefit from visiting Jerry Brown as you stated earlier. Can anyone recommend a good book on braid? I love books!!!
Big thanks again Lee,
Leo
I had a good one but I can't remember it's name, I'll see if I can find it.
I remembered the authors name and looked it up online,
http://www.afn.com.au/store/p92/Geoff-Wilson%E2%80%99s-Guide-to-Rigging-Braid,-Dacron-&-Gelspun-Lines/product_info.html (http://www.afn.com.au/store/p92/Geoff-Wilson%E2%80%99s-Guide-to-Rigging-Braid,-Dacron-&-Gelspun-Lines/product_info.html)
Thanx Lee,
I saw a link for this @ charkbait, but didnt know if it was worthwhile. Now I do. Charkbaits shipping is a deterant when purchasing low priced items. Thanx for the link.
Leo
Marks (Charkbait) prices seem good to me so make a list of things needed and when you hit $150 mark shipping is free, also you say your in So Cal right? Charkbait has a shop in Huntington Beach and one in San Diego. If you go to their shop I'd call first and make sure they have the book. before heading down.
Thanks SoCal,
Didnt know he had a shop in Huntington Beach.
Leo
Quote from: LTM on February 18, 2014, 03:32:59 PM
Thanx Lee,
I saw a link for this @ charkbait, but didnt know if it was worthwhile. Now I do. Charkbaits shipping is a deterant when purchasing low priced items. Thanx for the link.
Leo
How far are you from Mark's store? It's worth a drive to see it, I drive 700 miles to do it....on the way further south.
Lee,
Do you let the end of the solid stick out the hollow sleeve as the loop or do you splice a loop into the hollow? I'm really thinking that a 3 pass surgeon's loop to a mono wind on woud work. I am slowly but surely being talked into trying these things called wind ons. I've fished a bunch of mono with a main line surgeon's loop to a leader surgeon's loop but most weren't wind on and I don't think I ever tried to cast the ones that were.
When you make your wind ons, how do you attach the mono to the hollow?
Ron
The solid stays inside the hollow.
Splice a loop in the hollow, then cut it off so it's long enough to slide the mono 3-4 feet inside. Insert mono then serve the connection where the mono enters the Spectra with 1 10 turn nail knot and another 10 turn nail knot 1-1-1/2 inches up the hollow so your servings are about 1" or so apart.
Got it,
Seems like a lot of work, but it is a very elegant solution. If you don't mind me asking, do you find yourself switching wind ons on the boat much? I'm wondering if the flexibility really helps.
Thanks
Ron
I use short topshots so if I'm retying or breaking off many times I change topshots on the water often. Once the work is done (making the topshots) it's faster to change out a topshot than it is to tie a knot and there is less chance to make a mistake on a pitching deck. I keep several topshots on line spools and usually the loop on the main line is reusable, if not I tie a 3 or 4 turn surgeons loop. Slip the loop in your main line through the loop in the topshot, put the spool through the loop in your main line, pull it tight making sure the loops pull evenly, done. To take a used topshot off cut one leg of the loop and pull.
Man, I got alot to learn. ??? ??? Got to get that book soon; reaching OVERLOAD!!
Leo
Will you be able to go on the AT long range trip? If so hands on helps.
No Lee, not this time. It would be great to meet you guys.
Drive down the morning we cast off or the night before and say hi.
SO have you had a 3-4 turn surgeon's loop hold on fish in braid?
Ron
That's the plan Lee.
Leo
Quote from: Keta on February 19, 2014, 03:48:45 AM
Drive down the morning we cast off or the night before and say hi.
I wonder if the landing would let some of us catch/release some of those healthy mackerl that are around the docks there? To me thats fun cause those healthy mackerl tug nicely on 12/15# or whatever its just FUN WITH FRIENDS. ;D ;D ;D
Leo
Quote from: noyb72 on February 19, 2014, 06:34:04 PM
SO have you had a 3-4 turn surgeon's loop hold on fish in braid?
Ron
Nothing real big but a few nice lingcod and halibut.
Quote from: Keta on February 18, 2014, 11:15:14 PM
Quote from: LTM on February 18, 2014, 03:32:59 PM
Thanx Lee,
I saw a link for this @ charkbait, but didnt know if it was worthwhile. Now I do. Charkbaits shipping is a deterant when purchasing low priced items. Thanx for the link.
Leo
How far are you from Mark's store? It's worth a drive to see it, I drive 700 miles to do it....on the way further south.
I think you stop by there on the way home too Lee. Wasn't that you that stopped by the shop on your way home one time and sawed off a wahoo's head and tail in the parking lot so it would fit in Mark's freezer?
Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread.
I had 10 of them and I figured I'd made Mark's crew happy. I made a few other stops on the way home and ended up with this, the rest of the one I cut is there too, can't waste wahoo!!!!
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g104/IGFA19Keta/Home.jpg) (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/IGFA19Keta/media/Home.jpg.html)
That's a nice stack of 'cordwood' there! Wahoo is one of the best fish at maintaining quality once frozen. That being said, if you think you might have a problem earring it up, don't be afraid to try canning a bit. It keeps forever that way, and makes outstanding winter sandwich fare.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on February 20, 2014, 10:01:43 PM
That's a nice stack of 'cordwood' there! Wahoo is one of the best fish at maintaining quality once frozen. That being said, if you think you might have a problem earring it up, don't be afraid to try canning a bit. It keeps forever that way, and makes outstanding winter sandwich fare.
Lightly smoked and canned wahoo is some of the best eating, yellow tail is also good smoked and canned.
Quote from: Keta on February 20, 2014, 07:50:46 PM
I had 10 of them and I figured I'd made Mark's crew happy. I made a few other stops on the way home and ended up with this, the rest of the one I cut is there too, can't waste wahoo!!!!
And you did I got some nice stakes off that fish. Thanks
I'm glad you got some.
Glad to see that Im not the only one interested in this topic; 1100+ views in 10 days???
Leo
How do you can tuna or wahoo?
Quote from: Killerbug on February 23, 2014, 06:57:49 PM
How do you can tuna or wahoo?
I'm sure Lee will step in here but the best tutorials I've found for it ire on the Saly Dog subforum of ifish. It is an often talked about topic there.
Canning fish is different than canning fruit. The process requires a high pressure canner and temperatures need to be higher. I've never invested in the equipment but I have used conventional canning methods to can Tuna, it lasts not quite a couple months but it makes FANTASTIC tuna sandwiches. Again, I got the idea from the Salty Dogs
Ron
Cut the fish into can size pieces, if you are smoking it 30 smoke for 20-30 minutes with light smoke. Put fish into clean hot jars, put in the amount of salt you want and put the hot lids and rings on. Put jars into a pressure cooker with about 4" of water in it and seal pressure cooker. When the steam from the vent is coming out solid and the air is purged from the pressure cooker shut the vent, when the pressure gets to 10psi start timing, my old books say 90 min at 10+ psi, new books say 110 min, no one has died from my 90 min fish. If the pressure drops below 10 PSI start the timing over. After the proper time has passed turn off the heat and vent the cooker. Once the pressure is gone open the lid, take jars out and put them on a rack to cool.
Lightly smoked, and plain are both good. If you want you can try experimenting with liquids, can use water, water/soy sauce, water/ketchup maybe with a little bit of brown sugar, or oil. There are some recipes elsewhere online, if you want specific amounts others have used. I always wanted to try a diluted teriyaki/soy/water/brown sugar/liquid smoke combo. You won't be dissappointed with Lee's recipe there though.
OK guys,
So, I agree with the common wisdom of using one step higher rated line for backing than the topshot to ensure strength of the connection. However, what about using say 100# solid backing with some 135# hollow transitiion braid to connect to say 100# topshot, is that considered realistic?
Leo
Yes.
Lee,
Is the line config I just mentioned something you would do if you were on a budget with 30+ reels to spool. Im MUST be economical/frugil without sacrificing line performance as much as possible here. I NEED TO KNOW how to most effeciently (price/performance) spool up my reels. I have for the most part completed 95%+ of the mechanical parts upgrades to my reels which was a serious task thank God. Now I would like to complete this exponential performance increase that I see in these reels from the knowledge and help of all on this forum. This braid stuff (for lack of some other words) is the "LAST FRONTIER" for my reels (and my wallet). Im ordering the braid book that you mentioned Lee that I saw on Charkbait also, and doing some reading and knot practicing and finishing upgrading these last reels (for the time being) AND LEARNING ABOUT BRAID.
You comments and knowledge is appreciated as usual,
Leo
Bump
some good info
need to read again
Barnes & Nobel has the book for $9.99 it's pretty good.
Joel 8080
I like the Crazy Alberto knot for braid to mono connections small and easy to tie, check out link to video.
youtu.be/J56O3CZVu7M
will like to look But link is wrong?
Here it is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J56O3CZVu7M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J56O3CZVu7M)
looks like a good one to tie if at sea
will practice this