First off -- apologies to those on the board that do not like to work on spinners -- but I wanted to share this.
This is a little D.A.M. Quick 110N Microlite that would barely turn due to no maintenance since new (1983). The factory brown grease was hard and waxy.
Clients son had used it and lost a couple of the drag washers from the spool assembly.
Broke it down, ultrasonically cleaned all parts, replaced the missing parts with new ones, reassembled, Yamaha MG lubed & synthetic oiled, adjusted, spooled up 125 yards of 4 LB Trilene XT, returned to client ready to fish.
After nearly 40 years of doing this -- these Quicks never cease to amaze me.
The tolerances from the factory are still maintained, aluminum body & rotor, steel worm-drive with bronze gears, oversize ball bearing, crisp snap of the bail, asbestos hex drags top & under spool, front drag, all of the components are of good quality materials including -- bronze, steel, aluminum,copper. Even the "C" clips are of superior quality. Adjustable trip on the bail return. Overbuilt to last.
They may not be pretty -- but they sure work & hold up well. Simple and well engineered.
Best,
Fred
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Thanks for that Fred!
Those old worm drives are amazing. In these days of "planned obsolescence" I will myself never get tired of tools that last 30 years with minimal maintenance.
;D
ps. If you haven't already go to Alan Hawk's site and read a great review of a vintage DAM reel there plus a little history of DAM reels and where they are today.
Sweet...reminds me of my favorite spinners...Mitchell 300's...good job brother..
Fine Job Fred! ;)
As a kid that started fishing in the 50's with an Airex Spinning Reel & ended up with a Mitchell 300 & 306 if you saw someone with a Quick they had a good job to afford it. I also liked the Green Penn Spinning Reels but that's something else.
Mike
Disassembled, cleaned, and restored 5 old level winds for a Client yesterday.
Ambassadeur 4000, 5500, 5000, Shakespeare SKP 2000, plus a Penn MAG 10. All work like watches now, but really got hung up on the Penn 10 -- it had been damaged inside in and around the level wind assembly. So after having it apart 8 times to isolate various issues -- ended up replacing the worm screw, pawl, worm shield, nylon idler gear, and the brass worm drive gear, and more.
The Quicks, Mitchells, and Penns, are all reels that I appreciate and work on regularly. I have been fortunate over the years to accumulate a fair sized parts inventory for these old heros. And I have around 400 Mitchell's, and about 350 complete Quicks in stock.
Nothing gives me more satisfaction than restoring a vintage quality reel for an older person -- who had thought it was impossible to get parts for. Maybe it was a reel they fished with as a young man, or it belonged to someone's Dad or Grandfather -- and had a lot of good memories attached to it. It's really not always about the money -- there are enough other reels to work on that I get paid well for servicing -- like Daron sez...it is about enjoying your passion and paying it forward.
And Mike, I also think a lot of the old Penn Green spinners -- hard to find a better spinning reel than an old 700 series Penn, a D.A.M. Quick Super, or a Mitchell.
Best Regards,
Fred
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P
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Fred
I did a 714 for someone About 18 months ago. I had to remove the drag washers from the Spool with a Hammer & Screw Driver Ordered new complete drags & installed after cleaning. The reel worked perfect after servicing the body. These reels are one of the best old reels there are.
Mike
Great googly-moogly! ;D
Fred,
I would love to walk through that shop of yours just once. That is a really impressive setup you have there! ;)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on July 01, 2014, 09:17:58 PM
Fred,
I would love to walk through that shop of yours just once. That is a really impressive setup you have there! ;)
Absolutely!! Passion and organization in those pix. Inspirational.
Wow!!!!
Amazing photos! I agree, I would love a tour of the shop.
If you didn't sell off a bunch of stuff Fred you didn't show all ;D Very impressive.
Tim
I had one of these reels long ago ...think it was a 220? loved that crinkle finish on the body....just like an expensive camera was then. I once saw a DAM Ultralite reel that had a magnetic drag.
The 220 is a great size reel -- comparable to a Mitchell 300 -- only much stronger with double frame supported steel worm-drive, bronze main gear, oversize ball bearing, aluminum bodies and rotors, no pot metal anywhere inside or out.
Crisp, strong bail action.
A fairly rare Quick that I really like is the 221.
Same size as a 220 -- but has 5-1 high speed gears instead of 3-1, longer crank for more torque, has a red S on the side denoting high speed.
Best,
Fred
Love your work Fred, and your workshop. ;)
Thanks for sharing
Quote from: foakes on September 09, 2014, 06:43:35 AM
The 220 is a great size reel -- comparable to a Mitchell 300 -- only much stronger with double frame supported steel worm-drive, bronze main gear, oversize ball bearing, aluminum bodies and rotors, no pot metal anywhere inside or out.
Crisp, strong bail action.
A fairly rare Quick that I really like is the 221.
Same size as a 220 -- but has 5-1 high speed gears instead of 3-1, longer crank for more torque, has a red S on the side denoting high speed.
Best,
Yes, I was amused by the way the little AR toggle switch underneath would wiggle up and down when the handle turned.
Fred
The anti reverse mechanism is only (1) of the brilliant engineering ideas in a DAM Quick reel. Unlike a lot of spinners, where the anti reverse is attached to the rotating head, or a pot metal cog on the upper body of a reel -- on the Quick Finessa series, the A/R is the small lever that Basto is referring to -- under the handle. There are 8 indented holes on the inner main gear which will catch the spring loaded A/R cog as the main gear revolves. This causes the wiggle in the A/R lever. Also makes a neat solid clicking sound that let's you know everything is in order. This gear is machined bronze. The bodies, sideplates, and rotors are all aircraft grade machined aluminum. All of the Quicks from the smallest to the largest are over engineered, and built to last and not fail.
Comparing the standard Quick 220, with a standard Mitchell 300 -- reveals some big differences. The Mitchell is a very fine reel -- in my opinion, it looks better, and in most cases will hold up well. The Quick just is built tougher as to materials, strength, engineering, and the ability to land large fish continually without wearing out or blowing up. It doesn't look as sleek, is a little heavier -- but if you bought a 40 year old used one now, serviced and brought it up to as new, fished it regularly for the next 30 years -- you could still give it to your kids, and they would use it.
Here is a comparison between the 300 & 220:
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Below is an inside comparison showing the mostly pot metal or aluminum gears in a 300 -- and the machined parts out of a 220. On the 220 parts, note the machined bronze gear that interacts with the steel machined worm drive shaft, the steel handle shaft attached directly to the gear, and the oversize HD ball bearing (the 300 does not have a ball bearing -- just a bushing). All of this works in unison to transfer energy from the crank to the rotating head -- with as little loss in direct strength and control, as possible.
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The Quicks either have metal drag knobs, or plastic with a metal under surface contacting the drag stack. In many cases, the Quicks have Hex drags & SS discs -- way ahead of their time. In all cases, greased CF will improve their performance greatly.
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Here are 21 of the most popular DAM Quicks I generally work on. They include the 265 Microlite, SW68, 240 Junior, 238, 248, 280 Finessa, and the 270 Super.
Middle row going down is the Finessa Series: 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, & 550.
Bottom row includes: 110N, 220N, 330N, 331N, 440N, 441N, & 550N.
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I am fortunate to have a very large supply of NOS DAM Quick parts. Occasionally, I will just pull out the parts necessary, and put a reel together from scratch. Brand new reel -- no box!
Last year I was wondering why I had so many gears, shafts, worm drives, etc. Bought these from Quick many years ago, before they stopped German production and went to Asia. The reason finally occurred to me when I realized -- that of the thousands of DAM Quick reels I have repaired, restored, and serviced -- I have never seen a gear, worm drive, crank axle, or A/R failure. Unfortunately, I have a lot of those parts as NOS, that I have never used.
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Best,
Fred
You never cease to impress Fred! ;)
Fred, I'm wondering if you happen to know where I could find a spool shaft for a Dam Quick reel.
Just kidding ;D
Very impressive ;).
These old Quicks have a lot of hidden features, that the average angler never knows about.
Such as the 3 position adjuster on the "N" series and later -- for a lighter or firmer bail snap.
Ability to switch handles from side to side on most models.
Ability to release the trip lever backwards -- in order to take the pressure off the bail spring when not in use.
Ability to fold the handle down.
Push button spool release.
Tungsten line roller.
If anyone has an old green Super (275 2-Speed) -- I would like to buy one to experiment with some salt mods.
Cash or trade -- let me know...
Best,
Fred
Fred
Thank you for sharing your knowledge of these reels. Very interesting indeed!
I once had a DAM bait caster,(800B?) that had many of it`s parts replaceable with the ABU 5000C series.
cheers
Basto
I got one a couple of years ago in a bulk buy. Once I locate it, I will contact you if I think it is worthy of your attention--you already have most of the bases covered!!
TomT
Thanks, Tom...
Best,
Fred
Fred,
Found my Dam Quick already--which is pretty dam quick for me. :D It is one you already have--not the 2 speed. Mine is the 331n.
Sorry I couldn't help.
TomT
Thanks for trying anyway, Tom --
331N is a very good reel.
The "N" denotes the newer style after the Finessa Series -- late 70s to to early 80s.
And the "1" means it is a high speed retrieve -- 5/1 instead of 3/1 like a 330N.
All the Best,
Fred
OMG Fred :o
Very impressive workshop you have there Fred.
Only question I have is how do you get time for fishing?
Awesome collection there Fred.. I love those DAM reels.
Thanks for sharing
Very impressive Fred. I am always fascinated by reading about reels that unfortunately reached their zenith, before my time. They look extremely well built and I have passed on similar reels in auction, because I didn't know what they were.
And like others, I am envious of your shop.
Russ
I am restoring and old DAM Quick 220 for a guy on this board -- which had some parts missing for years.
Might do a tutorial -- so you can all see that these are really good reels.
A lot of people pass on these reels at yard sales, because if not ever serviced with modern methods and lubricants, the old brown grease has turned to beeswax -- or because they think they do not look cool.
To me, plastic or graphite is not cool -- just my opinion.
But think about it for a moment -- what other reel is fairly readily obtainable -- costs $10 -- $30 -- and when you put another $20 bucks or so into it -- will perform flawlessly for another 30 years of steady fishing?
Best,
Fred
Wow. What an organized shop. Beautiful cabinet storage, etc. And I see you utilize the plastic jars as bins as I do. I can't bear to throw them out. I use them for plastic bait storage, jig head storage,etc.
I have a really large reel of this type I set up for shore casting. Looks very clean. I have no idea how I acquired it. I do know who to contact for help though. It may need drag work at some point.
Glad to help with the Quick --
Should have everything to put it back to as new.
Which model number is it?
Best,
Fred
Hi Fred, I just walked out to the reels cabinet to find it again.
I forgot how great of condition it is in. Couple of paint scratches on the reel seat is all. Cranked it a few times and it turns real smooth.
Dam Quick 550.
You don't need to take it all of the way down -- unless you want to.
They need service after being stored --
Break it down to remove the gears and bearing --
Clean the bearing in lacquer thinner or brake cleaner -- rinse out completely.
Soak the gears, oscillating arm, worm drive, etc. In the same solution to remove all of the old grease.
Clean the drag system -- reinstall new HT-100s with Cal's drag grease.
Reassemble the reel, using light Yamaha Marine grease on the bearing, arm, gears, interior casing.
If you want the bearing to run more free -- lubricate with synthetic oil, or a oiled down mix of grease and oil.
Oil the spool shaft, check out the function of the bail, adjust and oil the trip lever, etc.
You are basically good to go now -- if you need any parts, have any issues, advice, or whatever -- let me know.
You can even send it to me for a complete overhaul, if you wish.
The reel is as tough as they come.
Best,
Fred
Whereabouts are you Fred?
Central California --
Hi Fred The 110n looks like it has very robust internals even a versa type drag. How does the 110n compare size and speed wise to say the 722z or 420ss ultra lites ? Doug
Hi Doug --
All excellent reels.
722Z -- 9.75 oz -- 5.0/1 -- reg spool -- 17 years out of production
420SS -- 8 oz -- 5.3/1 -- skirted spool -- 22 years out of production
110N -- 8 oz -- 4.75/1 -- reg spool -- 27 years out of production
The 722 is not actually a true microlite -- slightly larger frame and a little heavier.
All of these reels are benefitted by drag upgrading to CF greased.
Another excellent and slightly smaller Quick Microlite is the 1000 or 1001 series. Later production, still all of the cutting edge simple engineering, skirted aluminum spool.
Best,
Fred
Fred,
Fantastic colection! Museum of D.A.M factory :)
All I can say after looking at the immaculate organization of the parts is I thought I had OCD..!!
I named my reel business OCD because I am very meticulous about cleaning every little part and try to be perfect on each reel. Fred's organized parts bins are just awesome. My stuff is piled in Plano boxes.
Plano boxes work really well, Keith --
I use quite a few of them also.
Best,
Fred
I have been trying to get my hands on some of those old Library Card Catalog cabinets that you have, perfect for storing stuff, no luck so far.
I was able to get my two organizers from Fresno State College, when they went to an electronic file system for their new library.
Paid around $100 each -- each weighs in at about 300 pounds, and each has 60 drawers about 18" X 5".
One has plastic drawer insides, one has all wood. The wooden one had those stainless steel rods for the library index cards. Took those out. They make great shish kebab skewers for the BBQ -- if anybody needs any.
At the same time I bought 4 old drafting tables with drawers. I put new tops on them made with Melamine, trimmed them out with Oak, repainted them -- and they make great reel work benches. $25 each + the upgraded tops.
Then there was one of those old school library tables for $35. It had a white birch top, solid dovetail construction, with 8 under drawers for storage. Brought it home -- wife sez "what the H*** do you think your going to do with that?!!". I explained to her my idea of making a dining room table out of it -- she was a little doubtful -- but went along somewhat. I bought a new hardwood plywood birch top, trimmed out the edges with solid birch, stained & lacquered it, put a solid piece of 1/4" glass on top, painted the frame and drawers underneath, replaced the door pulls with antique bronze hardware. And she has loved it every day for the last 13 years. Made some solid birch chairs -- stained to match. Turned out nice.
Sue really likes the storage in the drawers for seasonal placemats, candles, cloth napkins, etc...
Check with local libraries, schools, school surplus, ebay, Craigslist -- you might find some of the organizers.
Best,
Fred
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Awesome Fred! Did you rob a library to get those card catalogs? ;D
Thanks
Dom
Yo Broadway, read the reply #44 just before yours. Fred explains where he got the goods. ;D
Fred,
Any mechanical instrument that's made so that your grandkids can still use it 30 years from now, well, that's worth a look.
Any advice which models would be appropriate for say a 9' surf rod, between 14-20 lb. test?
Thanks,
Tristan
Hi Tristan --
Either a DAM Quick 270 old green Super -- or a DAM Quick 5001.
Both will do a fine job --
Both need to be properly prepped for the surf -- complete cleaning and disassembly, Yamaha Marine grease on all internals -- including the bearing -- upgrade drags to Cal's Greased CFs -- spool with up to 25 pound test -- and you are good to go.
Neither of these reels will break the bank -- the Super is less expensive, simpler, and probably stronger -- but it is not as pretty as the 5001, which is also a top quality surf reel.
Best,
Fred
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Fred what about the 500 and 500n What is there line rating.
Dustin
Fred, thanks for the info. I'm thinking the retro look is a good one for the 9' rod I'm going to pair it with, so I'll keep my eyes out for a 270.
I've also seen a few 550's online, they must be the large economy size!
The pictures of your workshop are at once inspiring, and humbling!
P.S. Sorry for the thread drift...
Hi Dustin --
A 550 and 550N will handle up to 25 lb. Test mono, comfortably.
30 lb. mono can be spooled -- but casting performance suffers.
Of course, this is only considering mono lines. With the new braids, higher line tests can be achieved -- with double the yardage on the spool.
For example a 550 will hold 300 yards of 20 lb. mono -- twice that with braid, and twice the line test rating.
Now, the other issue has to do with plastic spools holding braid -- not a good idea -- IMO.
The 550 and 550N have plastic spools. They are fine for most uses -- but for surf fishing a metal spool is best.
They will all do fine -- the 270 and 5001 will do the best in the rough stuff. There are many reasons why this is so -- but it does get technical as well as practical -- and I do not want to bore folks with engineering details.
Although the line guides on all of the Quicks are carbide tungsten -- the braid could do damage to the spools.
The 270, 5000, 5001, and 5002 -- all have metal spools. The 270 is the traditional earlier spool -- the last 3 have skirted spools.
I can go into tons more detail -- but I do not want to be the guy, who when asked what time it is -- proceeds to tell you how to build a watch.
Best,
Fred
Fred, very good info. Thanks!
Hi Tristan --
The 270 would also be my choice -- and is for surf fishing.
You can pick up a decent one for $30 to $60 -- but expect to put another $30-$40 into parts, to get it salt ready and capable. This is because these reels were used hard -- and the technology has improved in some of the things we can do to these reels. Particularly greases and drags.
Gear ratio is fairly fast and capable of handling weight -- at 3:2 to 1.
All parts of this model are galvanic treated to help prevent salt corrosion.
If you find a good example -- after you break it down to inspect, clean, and service -- don't worry about parts. I have most parts you may need as new old stock.
If you cannot find a 270 to your liking -- I have plenty, and you could get one from me.
Below is an example of one I set up for Daron.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/0FC47D16-60AD-40EE-8273-D202D8350088_zpsz9ikhvkw.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/0FC47D16-60AD-40EE-8273-D202D8350088_zpsz9ikhvkw.jpg.html)
Fred thanks for the info. I don't know if there is such a thing as to much info on here. I myself love to learn about all these different reels and the engineering and mechanics behind them.
Dustin
Quote from: foakes on April 07, 2015, 05:47:17 AM
-- and I do not want to bore folks with engineering details.
I can go into tons more detail -- but I do not want to be the guy, who when asked what time it is -- proceeds to tell you how to build a watch.
Best,
Fred
YOU CANT BE SERIOUS? Bore a bunch of reel nerds with details about a well made reel...REALLY? Please go on!
Being the owner of one, soon to be two, Dam Quick reels, I would love to hear more details on how good they are. ;D
Well Fred, I was too quick on the bidding, and now am the proud owner of a 270 and a 550.
The bids were in before you posted the offer, above.
I appreciate it though, and after the first look at these two which arrived today, I have to say your title of this thread could be extended to these models as well - they seem bulletproof as well! Just stout as heck.
The 550 was listed as having upgraded drags and a replacement metal spool, and have to say I like both reels!
Both seem very heavy duty. Haven't opened them up and likely won't for a while as they seem to be running good and too many other required projects await, but my initial feeling is they'll be great. The only issue I've noted so far is the small rubber bumper which cushions the bail arm return on the 270, is worn out. Need to find one or fabricate a silicon replacement. That, and measure for carbon fiber drag washers, of course.
They're impressive enough that I'll move some other toys, and then perhaps I can relieve you of some of yours! ;-)
Already thinking about a 110n, and 330 or 331 (Perhaps a Finessa?)... Probably the 331... That would be a good size for a medium inshore rod, wouldn't it?
You've created a monster. :-)
Anyway, I really appreciated your original post, the pics of your workshop, and the knowledge that you are so generous in sharing with us. Knowing that you have the parts and experience necessary to make them right really brought confidence to buying such vintage products.
Thanks!
Sounds like you are on the right track, Tristan --
Before you fish these, though, I would recommend breaking into the body to inspect the gears and bearing.
In the old days, before grease technology improved so much -- the grease used in the old Quicks was a kind of brown stuff. Although any grease is good -- this stuff would turn to a hard beeswax -- if not used regularly. And certain parts would have grease coverage -- and other parts were bare.
Could be that the previous owner upgraded the grease -- but for me, I would do a service to make sure -- and to also become more familiar with your new reels.
Spend a little time, paying attention to the engineering and observing the reasons for certain systems that other reels do not have -- you might be impressed.
To me, the tight tolerances of these reels, even after 40 or 50 years -- is impressive. Built to last.
Good luck & let me know if you need anything.
Best,
Fred
I'll take your sound advise, Fred. They'll be cleaned, and lubed before getting wet.
I'll send you a PM if there's any parts necessary.
Thanks again.
Tristan
Yikes. Looking through this thread has got me scratching my chin about this:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/spo/4990684687.html
It's been up on the local CL for a month or two now; seller's been dropping the price, I think from $75 initially to $45 now.
And it's on my way home from work. If I bought it, I think I'd have to hide it from my wife :)
Must. Not. Acquire. More. Reels....
You should consider getting it at that price and condition --
If you did not want it -- I would buy it from you.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on April 29, 2015, 11:24:06 PM
You should consider getting it at that price and condition --
If you did not want it -- I would buy it from you.
Best,
Fred
Definitely looks minimally used. I might just have to swing by and check it out. Will let you know if I buy and decide against keeping it!
Yes,
I have handled 100s of those -- and I can tell from pics of the complete package, that all it would need is a complete cleaning to evacuate the old hardened brown grease -- then a relube, and that is it.
Good luck,
Fred
Great thread Fred and a stunning workshop you have there. I've just got my first Dam Quick-a 440N that I intend to put to use. I've P.M'd you sir.
Hi Jeff --
Here is the schematic you asked for --
Along with a complete parts list --
440N is a good and fairly rare reel in good condition or not.
It is the same body and gearing as the 330N -- just a larger rotor head, spool, and longer crank.
If there is anything else you need in the way of parts, or information -- let me know.
Good luck -- nice find!
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/Scan-004_zpsz0zdk441.png) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/Scan-004_zpsz0zdk441.png.html)
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What are the differences between the 110N and the 110 Finessa?
Fred,you are a legend. Will be in touch .
Hi Henry --
In answer to your question about the differences between a 110 Finessa and the 110N --
They are both Microlite reels, in the D.A.M. Quick line -- but they are vastly different -- although both are of very high quality. The main difference, to me, would be the anti-reverse system.
The anti-reverse system in the 110 utilizes an angled/beveled sturdy metal stop that spring inserts into 8 holes on the back side of the bronze main gear. Simple, positive, strong -- since the anti reverse feature is close to the handle in the drive train -- not up in the rotor -- or at the end of the drive system, like on the 110N.
The 110 Main gear is phosphor cut bronze, with a steel worm drive going through an oversize ball bearing -- then connected to the rotor. The steel axle connecting the crank handle to the main gear is oversized steel.
The 110N has an aluminum stop that interacts with the inside edge of the rotor -- not as good as the 110 in my opinion -- but still a very good design.
The earlier 265 Microlite has a strong drive train also -- but the 110 has the strongest.
There are two words that do not translate from English or Chinese -- to the German engineers, very well...Acceptable Slop.
The tolerances on these Quicks are down to a mil or two. After 40 or 50 years -- they are still at a mil or two.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/100_3264_zps03orpkig.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/100_3264_zps03orpkig.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the information. Looks like I ordered the right one from you. The 110 Finessa seems like it will be the best for bass fishing here. They hit hard and put a lot of pressure on the anti-reverse especially with the drag upgrade. I prefer brass over aluminum any time.
Quote from: fsrmn on May 07, 2015, 11:42:08 PM
Thanks for the information. Looks like I ordered the right one from you. The 110 Finessa seems like it will be the best for bass fishing here. They hit hard and put a lot of pressure on the anti-reverse especially with the drag upgrade. I prefer brass over aluminum any time.
How did you upgrade the drag ?
I replace the original drag material with cf.
Quote from: fsrmn on May 09, 2015, 02:33:12 PM
I replace the original drag material with cf.
There seems to be a bit of space in the spool to add maybe an extra washer or two as well??
The way the drag works is friction between the spool and keyed steel washer against the cf. Without an eared washer I don't think adding another cf would increase the drag.
One of the guys on our site, Andy from Georgia, wanted an old D.A.M. Quick 220 over-hauled, serviced and restored.
Here it is before and after -- runs like a top now.
Used a laser to true up the spool shaft -- since it was slightly bent.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/100_3269_zpsooluegcw.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/100_3269_zpsooluegcw.jpg.html)
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Cleaning up 40+ year old Quick 331 used exclusively in salt water. Ran into a major problem. The brake spindle (spool shaft) is corroded to the main axle shaft. I've soaked it for a few days in a rust penetrant, no luck.
Any help will be appreciated.
(http://i392.photobucket.com/albums/pp10/Rick77_2008/IMG_0502.jpg) (http://s392.photobucket.com/user/Rick77_2008/media/IMG_0502.jpg.html)
Hi Rick --
You have everything cleaned up nicely.
You may have already been planning on it -- but in case you were not, you should:
Take the drag stack apart, and clean it up. Since salt water was allowed to rust the spool spindle to the shaft -- the likelihood of issues is high. Just clean up the resistex drag washers, and the brass discs -- should be fine.
Also, take the bail assembly apart -- cleaning the spring, spring cavity in the rotor, 2 bail screws, reassemble and lightly oil.
No need to take the trip lever apart on the underside of the rotor -- generally just a couple of drops of oil to make sure the trip spring and lever are operating OK.
Check the bearing -- make sure it is cleaned with lighter fluid, solvent, or thinner -- not rough, and no howling sound. Grease it up inside so it will be smooth operating. or use a 50/50 mix of marine grease and TSI321.
Clean with "0000" steel wool and an old small drill bit in the chuck of an electric drill -- the inside of the worm gear, the brass sleeve where the handle axle goes through, and the last brass sleeve inside the body towards the back where the worm gear rides.
Blow these parts out after the steel wool burnishing -- them clean them again. Allow to dry and relube.
On removing the spool spindle from the spool shaft. Might try two pair of vise grips -- both with rubber or electrical tape covered jaws. The release button need to be depressed for the spindle to come off. So one pair of VGs on the spindle -- one pair of VGs on the shaft. Using two hands and a bench top to keep the button depressed -- try to gently work/spin the spindle in an opposite direction. If it comes off with no damage -- clean it up well.
If either part becomes damaged when removing -- let me know, and I have spares to send you.
When you depress the button, this allows 2 copper ears to retract into the spool shaft. So if they are still operable, after removal -- good. If not let me know.
Grease all of the assembly screws -- and you are good for another 40 years -- with just annual services.
Good luck with your project -- very high quality old reels.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred.
I had already cleaned polished and oiled all parts on the Rotor and reassembled.
All bushings and shafts were polished with jewelers rouge to a mirror finish. I cleaned the bearing with brake cleaner and it's still very smooth with no notchiness.
One thing that I'm not sure about is the drag stack. There is almost no adjustment to the brake. It seems really rough and jerky, kind of hard to explain. (this was before cleaning)
It is obvious, you know how to clean a reel properly, Rick.
I just mentioned those things for others to be aware of.
On the drag stack -- it is made up of brown, hard disks called resistex -- and metal discs. Generally brass -- but could be chrome over brass.
There is not much adjustment in these stacks like we see today -- but they work fine. What you could be experiencing in the sticky or jerky action is scoring due to salt -- or just worn discs.
If they are not shiny and smooth -- the resistex ones need replacement.
Two ways to approach --
I have the resistex washers I can send you -- then flat lap the metal discs -- and smooth out with the jewelers paste you are using -- clean again --
On the drag stack also -- the Spring needs to be checked -- it could have flattened out over the years of lock down during storage or ocean fishing requirements. Just need a replacement in that case.
Or, you can substitute CFs greased with Cal's drag grease for the resistex ones. If you want a useful and inexpensive upgrade -- and are planning on using the reel as opposed to displaying it as original -- this will really smooth out any jerkiness.
Let us know how you do with the drag and spindle assembly -- then if you need any parts -- just let me know, and I will send out at N/C.
Welcome!
Best,
Fred
Nice posts Fred. I have a D Q 220 and a old Johnson Green that I would like to send you to and service. These are from my youth and I would like to fish them again. It looks like you have parts if any are needed. PM me if you are interested.
Sure TT --
I can take care of both of them.
PM me -- and I will return with my mailing address.
Best,
Fred
Hi Fred
Very inspiring. I sent you a pm.
Hello, just joined this site after looking for some Dam Quick information. If my question should be posted elsewhere, please let me know. I am looking for a spool and id. insignia for my 220. I bought a 2nd reel off ebay for parts, but waiting to see if it is actually smoother than the one I have. The one I already own seems to "hang up" slightly when cranking (handle at the 12 o'clock position. Havent had time to tear into it yet. My question is do any of you sell parts, as they seem to be overpriced on feebay. And, after reading this thread it appears a few of you also repair the reels, if interested could you send me a message with a general estimate of a basic fix/tuneup? Not sure how to pm anyone on here yet...Thanks in advance.
Hi Fred
I sent another pm with the part numbers.
Thanks
Scott
Sorry, Scott --
Out of town until Saturday.
If you can wait, should be able to help you then.
Best,
Fred
No problem. I sent an pm. Would you rather I send you pm or respond here?
Quote from: foakes on July 01, 2014, 08:10:32 PM
Disassembled, cleaned, and restored 5 old level winds for a Client yesterday.
Ambassadeur 4000, 5500, 5000, Shakespeare SKP 2000, plus a Penn MAG 10. All work like watches now, but really got hung up on the Penn 10 -- it had been damaged inside in and around the level wind assembly. So after having it apart 8 times to isolate various issues -- ended up replacing the worm screw, pawl, worm shield, nylon idler gear, and the brass worm drive gear, and more.
Best Regards,
Fred
[Fred I was givin a Shakespeare SKP 2000, looked brand new so I cleaned it lubed it and it felt hard to turn the handle afterwards. I thought this is junk and kicked it to the side. After reading this post It inspired me to take one more look at this reel and under close examination it had a penny size copper thrust washer under the driveshaft raising it up just enough to make drive shaft rub on the c-clip so I removed that and she started working like new again. So just wanted to say thanks for your input and to let you know you helped me indirectly. One more step in the right direction for me.]
Good figuring it out, DD --
There is less difference than we realize -- in any of our experience levels -- we are all on the same journey.
We are all at just different points on the same road.
Good save on that Shakes 2000,
Best,
Fred
foakes, your shop is a site to behold.
Are there any reels that you are looking for?
Thanks, jackpine --
Yes, looking for a ABU or Zebco Cardinal 3 for my personal use.
I am sure some Ohana member on here will have one that I can buy or trade out for -- either way is fine.
Appreciate your asking...
Best,
Fred
I give up. It takes me forever to open these images. Sorry Fred there must be a better way. I own one D.A.M. spinning reel which has never been used reason being I wanted one but could not afford one back in the 1950s.
Soren
Sorry, Soren --
Photobucket is holding 2500 of my pics hostage --
This thread has over 37,000 hits -- so I will repopulate the photos at some point when time allows.
In the meantime, if you need any specific pics or information about Quicks -- I would be more than happy to add to this thread. And can post new pics.
Glad you got a good one -- they are very high quality reels, IMO.
Rebuilding (6) today -- just finished an order of (9) yesterday.
Best,
Fred
Thank you Fred. Looks like you have hands full.
Soren
Sometimes it's hard to put into words why a person gets more satisfaction working on or fishing with some of the older reels.
I like fishing enough where, here in Minn., when it's down to 32 degrees even in September or May, I'll fish with an old Zebco 33 spincaster simply because you then can fish with gloves on no problemo. Heresy? Maybe, but even this old spincaster has heritage; lots of kids started with 'em and there was a pro bass guy a few years ago that intentionally fished with one to honor this particular, and maybe lowly, reel.
My first reel was a buck ninety-nine early 1960s baitcaster that I finally learned to cast w/o backlashes; my Mom & Dad had four kids and between us, that was all that the old pocketbook could afford. Don't know why the early backlashes and black braided fishing line didn't sour me on fishing forever. Might be because, despite all that, I somehow managed to catch a little trout (I don't know what kind it was) on that reel and a cheap rod out of the Yellowstone River in the greatest of all fishing holes, Yellowstone Nat'l. Park. I remember that like it happened yesterday, even though it's been better than 50 yrs.
So, that's what it must be for me. Being outdoors in God's Country; using when I can classic or homemade tackle that was made for FISHING, not just so someone could make a quick dollar; knowing someone put pride and workmanship into an item to give it that little something special. For some people, it's classic cars, old pocketwatches, old warbird airplanes; for me, it's fishing gear with that extra bit of history.
Very useful information on DAM Quicks. l still have a 220 l got for my 16th birthday in 1969. Still looking for a DAM Quick 110 if the price is right.
I hear you Happy Hooker.
I have many fond memories fishing with a Zebco 202.
When I got a 33, I was in Hog Heaven!
Some 25 years ago when I first got married, my Wife missed a nice smallmouth on Dale Hollow lake.
She was using a 404. Big smallies are hard to catch on any rig.
I will never forget that Big fish jumping right next to the boat and shook for all it was worth and spit that Jig right out.
She thought she needed something bigger.
What she needed was to keep that line tight.
I bought her a 808 anyway. ;)
I miss those times.
My wife's got the biggest walleye & crappie in the family; I'm on top for a largemouth & northern. We have fun.
Frank
Reels I coveted as a kid fisherman, but but never could afford, back in the sixties: Quick 110, Mitchell Garcia 308 and Zebco 33 spincaster. Took me forever it seemed, to stop using that cheap stuff from japan, and finally get a M.G 300 for X-mas.
Gfish
I suspect a lot of kids eyes would have lit up with a Mitchell 300 under the tree for them.
Quote from: happyhooker on August 28, 2017, 02:55:45 AM
I suspect a lot of kids eyes would have lit up with a Mitchell 300 under the tree for them.
Mine did !
In my mind & small world at the time it was reel Nirvana. It was all the reel that was needed to catch whatever was swimming in the well over 15 ponds that were a short walk or bike ride away from the house. a Mitchell 302, with out relizing it, was my first ever River Monster Reel. It some how survived survived my abuse. Grandpa hollering " Stop trying to reel fish in with that ! Use your pole dammit ! "
I soon learned my assumption that just because it said Saltwater on the side plate did not mean it was up to catching everything that swam in salt water. Heck it didnt even do that great a job dragging snapping turtles to the bank so I could put an end to these miserable creatures. As a kid I hated them.... How things change given time.... Jeff
Good grief...finally found this thread! I knew I had seen a Quick 110 breakdown stickied here somewhere. Could a Mod move this one to the Dam Quick forum please? 8)
Some of us just get to ramblin' & swappin' stories and forget we ought to be more attentive to the formalities, I guess.
Frank
Hey Fred I think you need to get more parts it looks like you might be getting a little low LOL Thanks for being you Fred your the man!
Really love my little 110n. Would even like it better if i could find the parts to fix it, lol.... if anybody knows where to find parts for it, i'd greatly appreciate it...
Depends on what parts you need?
Best,
Fred
Welcome, wvh200, to the site. Lots of folks here like DAM Quicks. Some have parts, some know where to get 'em. I can appreciate your wanting to keep that 110N in good order.
Frank (from Minnesota)
Where can I find a schematic for the 110n?
I just got one. I like the gearing.
I'm not wild about the anti reverse. Too much noise. Any suggestions for quieting it?
Are the 110/265 any quieter?
Quote from: Balvar24 on July 27, 2019, 07:01:56 PM
Where can I find a schematic for the 110n?
I just got one. I like the gearing.
I'm not wild about the anti reverse. Too much noise. Any suggestions for quieting it?
Are the 110/265 any quieter?
— Here is a schematic and parts list
— No way to quiet the A/R too much...once you work and fish the DQ's — you may gain an appreciation for
the way they are designed...simple, tough, reliable, and capable far beyond their target range. At least
for me, I am confident the A/R is working, since I know the design engineering, and can hear the click
without looking. The "silent" A/R bearings on more modern reels use a A/R roller bearing — which when
used even without being "pushed" — will fail at some point. The DQ systems seldom fail, unless old dry
grease has been allowed to accumulate. In that case, a quick clean and flush will cure the issue.
— 110 & 265 are also audible A/R's — only both are different designs. The A/R on a 110N uses the inside
of the rotor and a spring loaded dog. The 110 uses a spring loaded pin on the underside of the main
gear, every 45 degrees it clicks. And the 265 has a spring loaded dog on the underside of the main gear.
— All very good reels.
Best,
Fred
Thanks.
I've always quieted my Mitchells by throwing the grease to the AR gear. I don't think I want to do that to the bell.
Got it back together. I don't think it had been serviced before. Nice and tight. Well built.
I added a drop of Kroil to the grease before I buttoned it up. May have been a mistake, but man do it make the gears spin!
Hi Fred!
This is my first day on the site and you are the lucky one to get my first request. I am not in the business of repairing reels for others, but I have several of my own that I am trying to get back into shape. I just bought 9 spinning reels. Most are Mitchell 300's and 308's with a 400 and a 410 thrown in. The odd one of the bunch is a D.A.M. 110N. I have fallen in love with it, and have been doing some research and decided to take it apart, lube it and fish with it. I've succeed so far as to get the old dark grease out of it, and lube it is best as I could. Believe it or not the hardest thing to get back together is the handle. I can not get the stem tightened down enough to slip the little pin through the handle. Can you share with me a location that I can get a schematic diagram of the 110N that is legible so I can check to see if I have the parts in sequence? The fish are biting and I'm getting more frustrated by the minute. Thanks in advance for any direction and wisdom.
Best,
Greetings, Fleminski, from Minnesota & glad you're with us on the site.
If you click on the schematic Fred posted earlier, it will appear in a form where you can enlarge it and see everything in great detail (at least, that is what happens for me using the Chromium browser.)
Frank
Quote from: happyhooker on September 02, 2020, 09:03:39 PM
Greetings, Fleminski, from Minnesota & glad you're with us on the site.
If you click on the schematic Fred posted earlier, it will appear in a form where you can enlarge it and see everything in great detail (at least, that is what happens for me using the Chromium browser.)
Frank
Frank is correct --
With the parts in sequence installed -- just screw the thumb crank nut all of the way towards the housing -- install the friction washer -- using a chunk of wood or hard rubber to support the handle -- line up the holes using a small nail or pick -- then just tap the keeper pin into the crank and crank axle using a small hammer and a 1/8" or 3/32" punch to finish it off flush. If done right -- using a small brass jewelers hammer -- you won't even need the punch to set the pin -- it will set flush.
Welcome!
Best, Fred
Thanks for all the replies! Much appreciated! Got everything put back together finally on the 110N....Was proud of my accomplishment until I noticed a small lock washer that was omitted lying on my work bench. Argh! Don't feel like breaking the reel down again to find where it belongs until I get the schematic. Without one it reminds me of fishing in deep water without a fish locator.
Best,
Quote from: Fleminski on September 03, 2020, 10:59:28 PM
Thanks for all the replies! Much appreciated! Got everything put back together finally on the 110N....Was proud of my accomplishment until I noticed a small lock washer that was omitted lying on my work bench. Argh! Don't feel like breaking the reel down again to find where it belongs until I get the schematic. Without one it reminds me of fishing in deep water without a fish locator.
Best,
Guess I am not sure what kind of schematic you want, Flem? --
This thread has had over 101,000 looks -- and the factory schematic and parts list from D.A.M. Quick is posted just above your initial post -- and again on page 6. Frank indicated to you that all you needed to do was click on the photo to get a sharp picture of all of the parts and details.
If you are having difficulties accessing the photos -- just let us know, and we will help you.
In the meantime -- the reel has (4) lock washers -- of which all are necessary -- for the reel to function without jamming up.
If you post a pic of the one you have left over -- I can tell you where it goes and the easiest and quickest method of attaching it without taking the entire reel apart.
Best, Fred
Atta boy Fred!
Fred there appears that there are way too many Tall Rounded Leafy items to view the wooded area in this scenario.
Might offer to fly out to their location with a copy or take the tools and parts to fix it on the spot .
Lookin at the enlarged view of the parts list, I see only 1 part termed "lock washer" for the 110-N, #100-069. However the diffrent part # that would show on the view of the disassembled reel may be listed, but hidden in the crease of of the folded over page. I do see some "C" clips(sometimes called "e" clips?) in Fred's photo, would those be called "lock washers"?
Lookin at this thread 'cause I finally indulged my lust for a 265 Microlite and it came with an extra spool marked on the underside "110". The plastic feelin 110 spool is too tall to wind line evenly on this model Microlite. Will give away or better yet, trade for an AR spring for the 265. Mine did the usual leap into nowhere land during the rebuild.
BTW, there is 1 typical lock washer on the 265. On the handle assembly, between the ball-end of the handle and the thumb nut. Or, did someone do a half-assed("Gfish type") repair on a loose handle? I see tool strike marks from pin removal/installation...
PM if you want the 110 spool.
I will take the 110 spool, Greg --
And trade you any parts you need for your new 265 Microlite.
Let me know the parts you need -- and I'll mail them to you.
Best, Fred
QuoteMine did the usual leap into nowhere land during the rebuild.
All those parts like that accumulate over many years in Molecular Time and Space Worm Holes and come back as used Coat Hangers
BTW, there is 1 typical lock washer on the 265. On the handle assembly, between the ball-end of the handle and the thumb nut. Or, did someone do a half-assed("Gfish type") repair on a loose handle?
Most of these Reels have a flat or Thin Wave type washer there .
Ok. Thanks WC. I'mina focus on the the AR sys. first, it's so loose, I'll start with that spring. I discovered that the threads on the handle assembly are stripped at a certain point, so that'll be next. Got a reel not worth what I paid for it...
Quote from: Gfish on January 06, 2021, 03:24:56 PM
Ok. Thanks WC. I'mina focus on the the AR sys. first, it's so loose, I'll start with that spring. I discovered that the threads on the handle assembly are stripped at a certain point, so that'll be next. Got a reel not worth what I paid for it...
Hang in there, Greg —
We are fortunate to have these NOS parts available — on the way to you today.
Haven't been to the Post Office in a couple of weeks with everything going on here in California. This has been sitting on my outgoing shelf for a couple of weeks.
I will slice open your Priority Box with the new Cardinal metal spool, and the A/R spring for the DQ 265 Microlite — and slip this in. You should have it in a few days.
Best, Fred
Whoa dude!, Fred to the rescue! Thanks buddy. One thing for sure though, there's absolutly no hurry. Eventually I'll have a good Microlite, thanks in no small part to you, but don't see me using it in the near future. At least untill I can find a "vintage" fenwick rod for it. Looks like someone did put a standard lockwasher in there to cover the stripped threads.
Where can you find drag washers for the 110,,,,, ;D
Benni, this is a reel you need. Cant remember if you have one if you dont let me know & one will be on it's way. They can a little work to get the line lay right. But they are well worth the effort.
I'd love to see you wear one out. Or try. Even if you dont use it all the time it would make a fantastic back up to have on hand when wetting lines... Jeff
I took the spool apart to oil, but I can't seem to put the washers back in the order needed. There are 5, and apparently mixed them up. Any help would be great!
Thanks
Mary
Do you have the Schematic for your 110 ? Reel
If not try this and you can see how it goes together and Welcome to the site.
Just click on this file a few times to enlarge it .
If you look at the schematic you will see only 4 Parts Total in the original Configuration that is including the Red Knob.
So if you have five washers then somebody put extra pieces in there but should not really cause and reassembly probs .
If you can not get the spool assembly to lock down or screw back together make sure the Dog is in place in the Gear on Bottom of Spool assembly .
Here is the Schematic for the 110N and it Does have more parts to it but the same holds true for the bottom gear engagement.
Thanks for the Parts Diagrams. I finally cleaned one of these up today that had been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years. Going to stick it on a 7' light action spinning rod, maybe use it for drop shot fishing. I've been buying those $20 Shakespeare Microlite rods. May use it when the hybrid are running in a few weeks.
The only thing I don't care for on these little reels, is the noise the AR makes. It sounds like one of those ratcheting screwdrivers with the big plastic ball handles.
But when the AR is off, man is this thing smooth and quiet.